[Junkman2008]

If you are doing what you are supposed to be doing with M105 and you are not using a dirty pad, then there should never be any micro-marring that you will be able to see on your color car. I explain all that in my videos, which I still say you need to watch again. Second, M105 was designed to be followed by M205. The only reason Meguiar's told you that is to make a sale. I use to call them about their products when I first decided to use their line until I started getting conflicting information. I slowly figured out that a lot of those guys on the phone were as clueless as I was. I then found a Meguiar's distributor in my city who had been using their products since the 50's and he was able to steer me in the right direction with information about all of their professional (Mirror Glaze) line.

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

If you are doing what you are supposed to be doing with M105 and you are not using a dirty pad, then there should never be any micro-marring that you will be able to see on your color car. I explain all that in my videos, which I still say you need to watch again. Second, M105 was designed to be followed by M205. The only reason Meguiar's told you that is to make a sale. I use to call them about their products when I first decided to use their line until I started getting conflicting information. I slowly figured out that a lot of those guys on the phone were as clueless as I was. I then found a Meguiar's distributor in my city who had been using their products since the 50's and he was able to steer me in the right direction with information about all of their professional (Mirror Glaze) line.

Ahh man, your busting my balls...you know, I've gotten pretty good and several neighbors come over and I show them how I take out swirls. And then I even told a guy today, Junkman hooked me up on these towels and that was a game changer. I'm not an expert in the de-tailing world..not saying that..but I have pretty good experience around here. Your the master on this, so I'm trying to get the craft honed in.
I'm pretty anal about getting that pad cleaned but the lines indicate it is from the towel. You know the micro-marring is so slight that the neighbor couldn't see it until I got the sun on it just right and pointed it out...but I see it and if you ever came by I would feel pretty embarrassed.
I'm going to look into getting some M205...I'm down for he long haul on this.

[Junkman2008]

Not busting your balls, giving you the well water from the years of experience that I have with this. I have said it many times, it's the LITTLE things that make or break your experience. My car is darker than yours. Why can't I duplicate the issue that you are having if we BOTH are using the same exact thing? The reason why is you are doing something DIFFERENT than I am. That's why I requested a video. If you are in for the long haul, make that happen. Then you won't have to deal with an issue that you shouldn't be experiencing.

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

Not busting your balls, giving you the well water from the years of experience that I have with this. I have said it many times, it's the LITTLE things that make or break your experience. My car is darker than yours. Why can't I duplicate the issue that you are having if we BOTH are using the same exact thing? The reason why is you are doing something DIFFERENT than I am. That's why I requested a video. If you are in for the long haul, make that happen. Then you won't have to deal with an issue that you shouldn't be experiencing.

Ok, so I went back and re-watched a part of your vid and I noticed a couple errors I was making: using too much polish and force. When you demonstrated that the correct force could be used with one hand that rang a bell as I'm a fairly strong guy and I was pushing down with the orange pad and M105.

Today , I went over the panels with M205 and the orange pad and then white pad with much less force and polish. It was working but still not completely effective. There was still some holographic reflections.

Here is what I figured out: These micro scratches are very delicate and are easily made with even half aggressive application on my Black sapphire paint. I switched to my black pad and gave barely any pressure with the M205 and let the machine just spin over it lightly. And the minute scratches started to vanish. And the shine...oh wow..looks like a mirror as I have went over these panels with M205 about three times.

But I am far from done as I have spent a couple hours now just trying to fix what I made...which is very slight and 99% of the people out there would not know what I am talking about or see it. I am pretty good at getting the swirls out but am finding there are several levels of technique that have to be acquired.

As for making a video..well, no one was around but I was hoping one of those cute neighbor girls might walk by and want to do a shoot but that didn't happen.

[Junkman2008]

And now you are starting to realize why I constantly tell people that you have to watch those videos multiple times before you can even grasp the amount of information that I am throwing at you. What people fail to realize is that I had to learn how to do this too so I have been where they are. That's how I know what they are doing wrong. I've been there.

[syenisch]

Thanks for putting this together Junkman! I've got a bottle of Meguiar's Ultimate Compound already that I used for some hand applications in the past. I am stepping up and following your procedure to remove the swirl marks in my CPO '15 435i GC. Can I use the UC in place of M105, and then step up to M205? (Don't worry, not going to do this by hand!)

[McBride]

Excellent videos. Thanks.
Whilst my technique was already Pritty good, I have just realised I've been using too much Polish though. So the question is can you wash hexologic pads to remove the excess polish that's on them?

Also, when using somethig like a green or orange pad are they aggressive enough to make it necessary to go over them with the White/black and a finishing polish?
I did some light correction on my door last weekend and rather than using a finishing pad I applied a coat of CG jetseal 109 by hand. I've not noticed any marks left from the polisher.

[RAK92]

Originally Posted by McBride

Excellent videos. Thanks.
Whilst my technique was already Pritty good, I have just realised I've been using too much Polish though. So the question is can you wash hexologic pads to remove the excess polish that's on them?

Also, when using somethig like a green or orange pad are they aggressive enough to make it necessary to go over them with the White/black and a finishing polish?
I did some light correction on my door last weekend and rather than using a finishing pad I applied a coat of CG jetseal 109 by hand. I've not noticed any marks left from the polisher.

I've watched all of his videos and I'm by no means speaking for him, but in his video he states you need to use the white pad with the less aggressive finishing polish (M205) because you are inflicting some damage with that more aggressive polish (M105) and orange pad. M105 was designed to be followed by M205 because of its aggressiveness.

My car is new and has no swirl marks that I can see (tested with the light like he does to check) so if this holds out, I will likely just use the white pad and the finishing polish for my next detail (of course after a thorough wash and clay bar). After that, I'll protect that shine with sealant and wax using a non-cutting black pad.

Watch the videos and he explains everything in great detail. I refer all my buddies that are interested in car detailing to his videos. Like he says, there are millions of techniques out there, but he shows (and proves) that his technique works!

BZ to the Junkman!

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by RAK92

I've watched all of his videos and I'm by no means speaking for him, but in his video he states you need to use the white pad with the less aggressive finishing polish (M205) because you are inflicting some damage with that more aggressive polish (M105) and orange pad. M105 was designed to be followed by M205 because of its aggressiveness.

My car is new and has no swirl marks that I can see (tested with the light like he does to check) so if this holds out, I will likely just use the white pad and the finishing polish for my next detail (of course after a thorough wash and clay bar). After that, I'll protect that shine with sealant and wax using a non-cutting black pad.

Watch the videos and he explains everything in great detail. I refer all my buddies that are interested in car detailing to his videos. Like he says, there are millions of techniques out there, but he shows (and proves) that his technique works!

BZ to the Junkman!

Yeah, he will give his answer to this, but as I found out even using a white pad with small amounts of M205 was still leaving slight amounts of micro-marring on my BSM. That's where I started using a black finishing pad with no pressure, only machine weight and let it spin. This is what left me with no marks.

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by McBride

Excellent videos. Thanks.
Whilst my technique was already Pritty good, I have just realised I've been using too much Polish though. So the question is can you wash hexologic pads to remove the excess polish that's on them?

You wash any pad to remove ALL the polish on them. You can't wash a just little bit of polish off them and continue to use them. That is illogical. There is a way to flush excess polish out of a pad and I do touch on that in this video series. But once you have completely saturated pad with polish, it's pretty much useless.

Originally Posted by McBride

Also, when using somethig like a green or orange pad are they aggressive enough to make it necessary to go over them with the White/black and a finishing polish?

You need to watch this video series. It explains not only the process, but the WHY part of the process. That is missing in your understanding of WHAT, WHY and HOW I do this stuff.

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by jgoens

Yeah, he will give his answer to this, but as I found out even using a white pad with small amounts of M205 was still leaving slight amounts of micro-marring on my BSM. That's where I started using a black finishing pad with no pressure, only machine weight and let it spin. This is what left me with no marks.

I finished with the white pad on this car. Notice the closeup's of the paint.

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

I finished with the white pad on this car. Notice the closeup's of the paint.

The answer is, "there was no wax or sealant" on that car. That is because polish is what makes it shiny and wax protects.

[blueirisathome]

this is the towel i use to dry my car when using Optimum Wash and Wax. i can use one of these to dry my whole car

is it better to use the microfiber Eagle Blue edgeless ones in your video? i tried these before, but it takes like 4-5 of them to dry my whole car

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by blueirisathome

this is the towel i use to dry my car when using Optimum Wash and Wax. i can use one of these to dry my whole car

is it better to use the microfiber Eagle Blue edgeless ones in your video? i tried these before, but it takes like 4-5 of them to dry my whole car?

In the video where I introduced everyone to the Eagle Blue Edgeless towels, I CLEARLY stated that the ONLY thing you should use the Eagle Blue Edgeless towels for is to REMOVE polishes and waxes. I was VERY specific with that. It is NOT a drying towel and you are doing nothing but wasting your money AND a quality towel if that is what you are doing with it. It is not billed as a drying towel and NEVER should be used as such. In that same video, I SPECIFICALLY stated that the towel that you should use for liquids is the WAFFLE WEAVE towel. I show each towel to the screen in close up detail so that there is no confusion. This is why I tell people to watch my videos more than once and to take notes. That was a rather short video so how you missed that information has me baffled.

With that said, you now need to look at THIS thread. Follow the advice in the video within that thread and you won't be wasting towels or using a low quality towel to dry your car with.

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by blueirisathome

this is the towel i use to dry my car when using Optimum Wash and Wax. i can use one of these to dry my whole car

is it better to use the microfiber Eagle Blue edgeless ones in your video? i tried these before, but it takes like 4-5 of them to dry my whole car

Get the Rag Company Korean Waffle weave.

[jgoens]

What is the advice for small areas? I am finding that the machine does not spin very well in small areas...Obviously a pro would have maybe a 2 inch polisher but I don't. These cars have a lot of difficult areas especially on the front.

[Junkman2008]

If you can't get the polisher to spin in a small area where the pad actually fits inside that area, that tells me that your TECHNIQUE is BAD. I think that I will make a video on that just to prove that point. If your buffing technique is solid, small areas won't affect the spin of the pad.

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

If you can't get the polisher to spin in a small area where the pad actually fits inside that area, that tells me that your TECHNIQUE is BAD. I think that I will make a video on that just to prove that point. If your buffing technique is solid, small areas won't affect the spin of the pad.

Well, my Technique is still a work in progress, but what I am referring to are areas in the pic where the work area is only a couple inches wide such as below the headlights and the air dam area. Basically, when the machine is not in full contact with the surface putting any pressure stops it. Like to see how you approach these areas.

[Junkman2008]

No problem, I can definitely tell that you have not mastered the peoper technique and can definitely show you that via a video.

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

No problem, I can definitely tell that you have not mastered the peoper technique and can definitely show you that via a video.

Your vids are very clear and concise, however, there still is a learning curve to master technique. You have been doing this for many years on many cars and even using the right products and trying to follow what you have laid out does not give mastery. A great start for sure, but other than you being right there hands on with someone, it takes practice. I've come a long way, and seeing the vids of the cars you have done just makes me keep trying.

[Junkman2008]

This is true but this is also WHY I stress technique so much in my videos. I also stress HOW to obtain a perfect technique.

Too many people watch my videos, see how easy I make it look and then want to dive into fixing their own car WITHOUT doing the one thing that I suggest that will shape the foundation of their technique BEFORE they teach themselves a flawed or ineffective technique. I understand that because I too was a novice at one time. I know how guys are thinking when they first attempt this because I thought the same exact way. That is why my videos are soooooo long and detailed. For those who stay on the "yellow brick road", success will find them a LOT faster. If success has to hunt you down, you will never meet it.

Success is a finicky lady who is use to folks seeking her out. She only reveals herself to those who strive for her hand during courtship. If you go off on your own tangent, she will hit you with her famous rubber stamp:

[mr_kay]

I want to start by saying thank you for putting all of this together. I actually watched (and more importantly listened) to every second of these videos, with them having my full attention. I always wondered how come I could never achieve the level of paint correction I desired with my DA. A few flaws I found were:
- I was moving too quickly
- I was applying too much pressure
- I was using too much product
- I was not "rehydrating" the product when it needed to be
- I would get frustrated and just try to put more force/speed into the correction
- I was using Autozone MF towels

After seeing a very deep scratch that went intermittently from my head light to my tail light yesterday morning, I decided to try to do your technique from start to finish on my fender to see if I could perfect that one spot as you suggested. I also did the same on my trunk lid, to see if I could do proper correction on a vertical and a horizontal surface. I did not have 105 but i do have Ultimate Compound which I said I would try and if the results were negligible, I'd get some 105 to try.

Products used were:
- Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II Shampoo
- Lake Country yellow cutting pad
- Lake Country orange pad
- Meg's Ultimate Compound
- Meg's 205
- Collinite 845

Here are the pictures:

Trunk lid before wash:


Trunk after all correction:


For the fender, I tried to use a scratch for comparison in all my steps:

Fender scratch and paint after a wash:


Fender scratch after Ultimate Compound:


Fender scratch after 205:


Fender scratch after Collinite:


Two shots of other parts on the fender to show the final outcome on the rest of the panel: