[johnung]

Originally Posted by dzeb

Hello guys, i was looking for an audio upgrade for my f34 with HIFI audio. And i want to ask how does HIFI with Match up 7BMW amplifier compares with stock H/K? Im thinking which way should i take, retrofit H/K, or get a Match 7BMW?

7BMW is off the charts better than the HK amplifier. HK's DSP system was designed ten years ago. There's no comparison.

It's like asking if you should buy a cell phone today or use whatever cell phone you had ten years ago

[dzeb]

Originally Posted by johnung

7BMW is off the charts better than the HK amplifier. HK's DSP system was designed ten years ago. There's no comparison.

It's like asking if you should buy a cell phone today or use whatever cell phone you had ten years ago

Yes, i understand that and i know that DSP in 7BMW is more advanced and has more features, I'm more interested in sound clarity, is it louder and cleaner thank HK? or on the par? Because somehow i think HK speakers should be better quality than HIFI, and can 7BMW compensate and overtake HK? thanks

[johnung]

Originally Posted by badninja99

Just ordered all the parts, I saw a few videos on how to install the subs. Are there any instructions on how to wire the amp? Or am I better of paying a audio shop to do it?

Only you can decide if you are up for any task. Can't go by what someone else labels as "easy" or "difficult".

At first I talked to a few local car stereo shops. I had installed car stereos in other cars years ago but never touched a BMW. They all pitched that they had great experience but when I asked specific questions, they gave me answers that led me to trust them with my car less and less. They were all just going to tear apart my car trunk interior and wing it, and charge me a ridiculous amount of money. I decided that I could take my time and do a better job.

Instructions come with the AudioControl amplifier and a wiring diagram from Technicpnp that didn't come with the harness, but I contacted them through the website and they emailed it to me.

The BMW specific information I learned as I removed interior panels from inside my trunk to expose the HK amplifier in the left trunk alcove, the car battery in the right trunk alcove and the fuse box under the trunk floor panel that just lifts right up.

There is one BMW specific wire to run from the fuse box to the AudioControl amp to signal it to turn on/off with the car's ignition but that's plug and play by buying a couple small items from local stores. I can provide those details. And I have photos.

To wire everything in the trunk requires just a handful of items from the Internet and/or local stores like Lowe's, Autozone, Pep Boys, etc. Purists will tell you to solder everything, but you can buy/use simple crimp connectors.

Contact Technicpnp to get the latest wiring diagram for the harness and post a photo of it here. I've already posted a lot of detailed information on this installation but I haven't done it as step by step instructions. Maybe I'll try to write it up that way with the photos that I took.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by dzeb

Yes, i understand that and i know that DSP in 7BMW is more advanced and has more features, I'm more interested in sound clarity, is it louder and cleaner thank HK? or on the par? Because somehow i think HK speakers should be better quality than HIFI, and can 7BMW compensate and overtake HK? thanks

The HK amplifier is not a simple retrofit into a car that came with the HiFi amplifier. Harness and signaling are different so it's certainly not a plug and play option.

If you are just comparing amplifiers the Match 7BMW is superior. It's really two amplifiers in one. It's providing perfect power to the mods/tweeters, and much higher power to the underseat subwoofers. It's going to be louder and cleaner.

There's a lot of marketing thrown at BMW speakers, both Hifi and HK, claiming that they should be replaced. This is coming from retailers that want to sell expensive (mostly crap) speakers. Many guys install expensive aftermarket speakers and because they spent a lot of money, their brains tell their ears that the expensive speakers sound better. It's like a psychological placebo effect that the audio industry has been using to create sales for many decades.

The only BMW speakers that need to be replaced are the underseat subs, either HiFi or HK, with the Earthquake SWS-8Xi (2-ohm). Read the many posts by Billfitz about speakers and their specs. Bill's career has been spent designing speakers. The specs don't lie.

First install the Match 7BMW amplifier along with the Earthquakes and you'll be amazed how great your stock speakers sound.

Second, at that point you can also add a tweeter under your center channel dashboard grill. The bracket should already be there. And you can add tweeters in the rear doors. I would just get new or used HK tweeters for those three spots because you know they will sound great with the existing stock speakers.

I don't think I've heard of someone doing those things and then thinking that they need to spend more money on aftermarket speakers.

Hope this helps!

[dzeb]

Originally Posted by johnung

The HK amplifier is not a simple retrofit into a car that came with the HiFi amplifier. Harness and signaling are different so it's certainly not a plug and play option.

If you are just comparing amplifiers the Match 7BMW is superior. It's really two amplifiers in one. It's providing perfect power to the mods/tweeters, and much higher power to the underseat subwoofers. It's going to be louder and cleaner.

There's a lot of marketing thrown at BMW speakers, both Hifi and HK, claiming that they should be replaced. This is coming from retailers that want to sell expensive (mostly crap) speakers. Many guys install expensive aftermarket speakers and because they spent a lot of money, their brains tell their ears that the expensive speakers sound better. It's like a psychological placebo effect that the audio industry has been using to create sales for many decades.

The only BMW speakers that need to be replaced are the underseat subs, either HiFi or HK, with the Earthquake SWS-8Xi (2-ohm). Read the many posts by Billfitz about speakers and their specs. Bill's career has been spent designing speakers. The specs don't lie.

First install the Match 7BMW amplifier along with the Earthquakes and you'll be amazed how great your stock speakers sound.

Second, at that point you can also add a tweeter under your center channel dashboard grill. The bracket should already be there. And you can add tweeters in the rear doors. I would just get new or used HK tweeters for those three spots because you know they will sound great with the existing stock speakers.

I don't think I've heard of someone doing those things and then thinking that they need to spend more money on aftermarket speakers.

Hope this helps!

Thank you for a detailed answer! The last question, i can choose between Match 7BMW and HK retrofit, both priced very closely, what should you pick Match or HK? don't take into account labor, i know that to retrofit HK it takes time and coding, etc, but this part i can do myself, have all the tools needed, just cannot decide which path should i take

[johnung]

Originally Posted by dzeb

Thank you for a detailed answer! The last question, i can choose between Match 7BMW and HK retrofit, both priced very closely, what should you pick Match or HK? don't take into account labor, i know that to retrofit HK it takes time and coding, etc, but this part i can do myself, have all the tools needed, just cannot decide which path should i take

No comparison, I'd get the Match 7BMW over the HK amplifier every day of the week. I've already posted detailed reasons why.

[dzeb]

Originally Posted by johnung

No comparison, I'd get the Match 7BMW over the HK amplifier every day of the week. I've already posted detailed reasons why.

Thank you very much!

[badninja99]

Originally Posted by johnung

Only you can decide if you are up for any task. Can't go by what someone else labels as "easy" or "difficult".

At first I talked to a few local car stereo shops. I had installed car stereos in other cars years ago but never touched a BMW. They all pitched that they had great experience but when I asked specific questions, they gave me answers that led me to trust them with my car less and less. They were all just going to tear apart my car trunk interior and wing it, and charge me a ridiculous amount of money. I decided that I could take my time and do a better job.

Instructions come with the AudioControl amplifier and a wiring diagram from Technicpnp that didn't come with the harness, but I contacted them through the website and they emailed it to me.

The BMW specific information I learned as I removed interior panels from inside my trunk to expose the HK amplifier in the left trunk alcove, the car battery in the right trunk alcove and the fuse box under the trunk floor panel that just lifts right up.

There is one BMW specific wire to run from the fuse box to the AudioControl amp to signal it to turn on/off with the car's ignition but that's plug and play by buying a couple small items from local stores. I can provide those details. And I have photos.

To wire everything in the trunk requires just a handful of items from the Internet and/or local stores like Lowe's, Autozone, Pep Boys, etc. Purists will tell you to solder everything, but you can buy/use simple crimp connectors.

Contact Technicpnp to get the latest wiring diagram for the harness and post a photo of it here. I've already posted a lot of detailed information on this installation but I haven't done it as step by step instructions. Maybe I'll try to write it up that way with the photos that I took.

johnung I appreciate the help and the advice. How many spacer rings do I need? I ordered one pair(2 rings) do I need to order another?

I have spimp connectors and a crimper.

What other tools or parts will I need to complete the job?
Will I need to drill to hold the new amp in place?

I Just want to make sure I have everything to start this weekend

Here is the Diagram:
Premium & FXX HK Trunk Sub Harness.pdf

[FastFrog]

Agreed with the above, mid speakers upgrade probably not worth the money (and hassle), when coming from Hi-Fi.
As a side note, I wouldn't be so sure when coming from base audio. For the record, here are pictures of the 3 variantes of front door mids (not my own pictures, as can be figured):

Base - stereo (not sold in the US), part 65139288769



Hifi (option S676A) - part 65139264944



Hi-Hifi (Harman Kardon, option S688A) - part 65139364956



Having had both base and B&W mids in hands, the weight, height, and general look & feel are from a totally different league.

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by johnung

HK's DSP system was designed ten years ago.

+1, and it was obsolete from day one. I can't wrap my head around that one.

Agreed with the above, mid speakers upgrade probably not worth the money (and hassle), when coming from Hi-Fi. As a side note, I wouldn't be so sure when coming from base audio

Rightfully so. The base midrange in the top photo has a larger ceramic magnet, which indicates it's inexpensive. The bottom two Hi-Fi and H-K have much smaller, and much more expensive, neodymium magnets. You don't use neo magnets when you're trying to save money. So where the base speakers are concerned yes, it's probably a good idea to upgrade those, but only if you're upgrading the amp as well. And be aware that price and quality aren't linear. The main difference between a $50 speaker and a $150 speaker is $100. I wouldn't upgrade to the better BMW speakers either, as they're ridiculously over priced, unless you can get them used. There's plenty of those out there, being sold by those who fell for the aftermarket speaker advertising.

While on the subject of magnets, there's an installation video from one of the aftermarket companies that make a big deal out of the large ceramic magnets they use, stating that you need large magnets to sound good. The only way someone would say that is if they have no clue about speakers, or they're making a sales pitch to the average Joe, who probably doesn't have a clue about speakers. Either way you should avoid that seller.

Then you can go to other sellers who make a big deal about using neodymium magnets and cast polymer frames, but fail to mention that the OEM Hi-Fi and H-K midranges use them as well.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by badninja99

johnung I appreciate the help and the advice. How many spacer rings do I need? I ordered one pair(2 rings) do I need to order another?

I have spimp connectors and a crimper.

What other tools or parts will I need to complete the job?
Will I need to drill to hold the new amp in place?

I Just want to make sure I have everything to start this weekend

Here is the Diagram:
Attachment 2841183

Only need one pair of the Earthquake 8" spacer rings. One for each sub.

No drilling required. I used tie-wraps, Velcro and duct tape in various locations.

I'm on the road now but I'll go back through my notes and photos tonight for more details.

[Onizukachan]

Originally Posted by johnung

The HK amplifier is not a simple retrofit into a car that came with the HiFi amplifier. Harness and signaling are different so it's certainly not a plug and play option.

If you are just comparing amplifiers the Match 7BMW is superior. It's really two amplifiers in one. It's providing perfect power to the mods/tweeters, and much higher power to the underseat subwoofers. It's going to be louder and cleaner.

There's a lot of marketing thrown at BMW speakers, both Hifi and HK, claiming that they should be replaced. This is coming from retailers that want to sell expensive (mostly crap) speakers. Many guys install expensive aftermarket speakers and because they spent a lot of money, their brains tell their ears that the expensive speakers sound better. It's like a psychological placebo effect that the audio industry has been using to create sales for many decades.

The only BMW speakers that need to be replaced are the underseat subs, either HiFi or HK, with the Earthquake SWS-8Xi (2-ohm). Read the many posts by Billfitz about speakers and their specs. Bill's career has been spent designing speakers. The specs don't lie.

First install the Match 7BMW amplifier along with the Earthquakes and you'll be amazed how great your stock speakers sound.

Second, at that point you can also add a tweeter under your center channel dashboard grill. The bracket should already be there. And you can add tweeters in the rear doors. I would just get new or used HK tweeters for those three spots because you know they will sound great with the existing stock speakers.

I don't think I've heard of someone doing those things and then thinking that they need to spend more money on aftermarket speakers.

Hope this helps!

Agreed with most of johnung above with couple small exceptions that might be personal taste.
I would say skip the rear tweeters and the center tweeter too. I wound up with all of them x-over at 3500 ish and turned way way down like -9 db to not fubar the front stage. Rear fill doesn’t need tweeters at all. Unless you ride in the back and have a driver! Lol.

I added the center tweeter but it was a waste of an hours time and ~$20 bucks (hint the e90 rear are same as f30 center and much easier to find on eBay). If you do one, it aims towards windscreen not back towards cabin. It doesn’t even get used with what I would consider my good tune. Messes up the localization L&R IMHO if you have full upper octave highs on the center. But others and yourself might differ in opinion so leave that for last.


What is and was a worthy upgrade for me is the HK center speaker grill. It is absolutely more acoustically transparent than the normal plastic one. Enough that that one change even helps stock system sound more centered and clearer in my experience. Worth the $20 on eBay for sure imo.

When you do the earthquake subs trim back the carpet 1/4” or 3/8” with a pair of heavy scissors or similar to not foul on the surround, you will see what I mean when you do it. the factory grills will cover the trimmed area no problem, and no reason to spend the money and not the extra 20 minutes to make sure the surrounds aren’t tapping.
Hope this helps, i often wish johnung and I lived close enough to listen to each others cars and tuning.

I will say this. With out tuning the match7 earthquake combo is as good as hk. With a “stock no t/a tune” from Fischer website slightly better. With a correct Time alignment and good tune the thing is massively impressive. I tell people I crammed a 10 in the dash, they believe it cause the bass is upfront in the dash, not in the butt or from the back… Until I tell them I’m kidding.
I can tell people I have (insert Random internet circle jerk brand like scanspeak) and they believe it, until I tell them I’m kidding… they are factory. Then they don’t believe me.

I don’t blame them. I’m massively impressed with this thing every day. And if I don’t count the 15+ hours I spent tuning every single channel individually, it was the easiest, fastest Audio upgrade I’ve ever done. I still want to go back and tweak the front left by a couple centimeters in the TA one of these days.



As far as crimping, if you are using most generic blue/red/yellow plastic crimps, the metal crimps and spacedes etc are usually fine, but imho you are better off taking the cheap plastic off and using heat shrink instead. You’ll get a better crimp with out the cheap plastic surround, it takes up much less room, and it looks nicer and neater and less pep boys.

A simple pack of red white black works fine and isn’t but $3-4. I used to do my speaker positives with red then do black over leaving just a ring of red showing. Always looked neat, and was easy to see which was which compared to everything being blue blue blue.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by badninja99

johnung I appreciate the help and the advice. How many spacer rings do I need? I ordered one pair(2 rings) do I need to order another?

I have spimp connectors and a crimper.

What other tools or parts will I need to complete the job?
Will I need to drill to hold the new amp in place?

I Just want to make sure I have everything to start this weekend

Here is the Diagram:
Attachment 2841183

I didn't have time to do a supper detailed installation guide but the attached photos show new wiring instructions and revised photos.

Buy full copper stranded wire. Watch out for cheap wire that's really aluminum with a copper coating. I got my best local price for some wire at Lowe's.

A couple items came from Amazon but I also found things locally at auto stores and Walmart.

Besides the Earthquake underseat subwoofer installation, everything is located in the trunk.

The AudioControl ACM-2.300 secondary amplifier gets installed on top of the cover for the BMW tool box in the right alcove of the trunk which is immediately above the car's battery.

All of the wiring runs begin in this area with connections from the AudioControl amplifier to:

1) Fused power supply wire to the car's wiring block next to the battery. See photos.

2) Ground wire connected to the car's ground wiring location between the battery and rear bumper. See photo.

3) On/Off trigger wire that connects to an Add-A-Circuit fuse that is connected to the car's fuse #146 in the fuse panel under the trunk floor panel.

4) Two pairs of speaker wire (4 wires total) that connect to the TechnicPnP harness (Connector "B") in the left trunk alcove which is connected to the HK amplifier. This connects the subwoofer speaker outputs from the HK amplifier to the LOC (Line Output Converter) that's built-in to the AudioControl ACM-2.300.

This is a special high voltage LOC because plugging in a low voltage LOC could damage the HK amplifier. Unlike many amplifiers, the HK amplifier does NOT have a line out connection to connect to a secondary amplifier. So the only way to obtain the subwoofer signals is to connect to the HK woofer speaker wires with a LOC between the HK and AudioControl amplifiers.

5) Two pairs of speaker wire (4 wires total) that connect to the TechnicPnP harness (Connector "A"). This delivers 150 watts each into 2 channels at 2-ohms from the AudioControl ACM-2.300 secondary amplifier to the car's stock underseat speaker wires that should now be connected to the upgraded Earthquake SWS-8Xi (2-ohm) underseat subwoofers.

It's best to buy 16g/18g copper stranded speaker wire that comes in a connected pair so that one wire is for speaker (+) and the other wire is for speaker (-). Be very careful to label the wires and jot down the colors of the wires at a) the underseat subwoofer connections, b) the TechnicPnP wiring harness, and c) the speaker wires connecting at the AudioControl amp. I did a table with three columns to make sure that the Left/Right speaker and +/- polarity were consistent in the connections.

Between the AudioControl ACM-2.300 and the TechnicPnP harness connected to the stock HK amplifier, there are (4) pairs for a total of (8) speaker wires running across the trunk floor (as per #4 & #5 above). To protect these wires I used cable ties to keep them in place. I ran them to the back of the trunk (nearest the bumper). It was simple to run them in the back corner of the trunk floor where the horizontal and vertical meet paralleling the bumper line. Then I ran a piece of duct tape to hold them in the corner. When the trunk floor panel goes on top, they are well protected.

This has been an overview. Please look carefully at the (14)attached photos for many more details.

Hope this helps!

[johnung]

Originally Posted by johnung

I didn't have time to do a supper detailed installation guide but the attached photos show new wiring instructions and revised photos.

Buy full copper stranded wire. Watch out for cheap wire that's really aluminum with a copper coating. I got my best local price for some wire at Lowe's.

A couple items came from Amazon but I also found things locally at auto stores and Walmart.

Besides the Earthquake underseat subwoofer installation, everything is located in the trunk.

The AudioControl ACM-2.300 secondary amplifier gets installed on top of the cover for the BMW tool box in the right alcove of the trunk which is immediately above the car's battery.

All of the wiring runs begin in this area with connections from the AudioControl amplifier to:

1) Fused power supply wire to the car's wiring block next to the battery. See photos.

2) Ground wire connected to the car's ground wiring location between the battery and rear bumper. See photo.

3) On/Off trigger wire that connects to an Add-A-Circuit fuse that is connected to the car's fuse #146 in the fuse panel under the trunk floor panel.

4) Two pairs of speaker wire (4 wires total) that connect to the TechnicPnP harness (Connector "B") in the left trunk alcove which is connected to the HK amplifier. This connects the subwoofer speaker outputs from the HK amplifier to the LOC (Line Output Converter) that's built-in to the AudioControl ACM-2.300.

This is a special high voltage LOC because plugging in a low voltage LOC could damage the HK amplifier. Unlike many amplifiers, the HK amplifier does NOT have a line out connection to connect to a secondary amplifier. So the only way to obtain the subwoofer signals is to connect to the HK woofer speaker wires with a LOC between the HK and AudioControl amplifiers.

5) Two pairs of speaker wire (4 wires total) that connect to the TechnicPnP harness (Connector "A"). This delivers 150 watts each into 2 channels at 2-ohms from the AudioControl ACM-2.300 secondary amplifier to the car's stock underseat speaker wires that should now be connected to the upgraded Earthquake SWS-8Xi (2-ohm) underseat subwoofers.

It's best to buy 16g/18g copper stranded speaker wire that comes in a connected pair so that one wire is for speaker (+) and the other wire is for speaker (-). Be very careful to label the wires and jot down the colors of the wires at a) the underseat subwoofer connections, b) the TechnicPnP wiring harness, and c) the speaker wires connecting at the AudioControl amp. I did a table with three columns to make sure that the Left/Right speaker and +/- polarity were consistent in the connections.

Between the AudioControl ACM-2.300 and the TechnicPnP harness connected to the stock HK amplifier, there are (4) pairs for a total of (8) speaker wires running across the trunk floor (as per #4 & #5 above). To protect these wires I used cable ties to keep them in place. I ran them to the back of the trunk (nearest the bumper). It was simple to run them in the back corner of the trunk floor where the horizontal and vertical meet paralleling the bumper line. Then I ran a piece of duct tape to hold them in the corner. When the trunk floor panel goes on top, they are well protected.

This has been an overview. Please look carefully at the (14)attached photos for many more details.

Hope this helps!

Photos of the Earthquake underseat subwoofer installation and connection to Fuse #146 for On/Off trigger of the secondary amplifier with the car's ignition.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by johnung

Photos of the Earthquake underseat subwoofer installation and connection to Fuse #146 for On/Off trigger of the secondary amplifier with the car's ignition.

Photos of the connections to the car's power and the car's ground.

[FastFrog]

Thanks a lot johnung, that helps a lot!
I was wondering about the gauge, for the speakers wiring.
What gauge should be used for, say, underseat sub output (which should be the more demanding)?
Is 18 AWG OK? Is copper mandatory?
I'm not sure that OEM harness cables exceeds this specification.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by FastFrog

Thanks a lot johnung, that helps a lot!
I was wondering about the gauge, for the speakers wiring.
What gauge should be used for, say, underseat sub output (which should be the more demanding)?
Is 18 AWG OK? Is copper mandatory?
I'm not sure that OEM harness cables exceeds this specification.

Ideally 16 gauge, but the distance is short across the trunk floor so 18g would probably be fine. If I was running new speaker wires direct from the AudioControl amplifier in the trunk to the underseat subs then I would only use 16g. I wouldn't use anything except stranded copper.

[Billfitz]

The gauge required is determined by the length of the wire and the speaker impedance. Even with the short run used with 2 ohm subs it's best to use 14 gauge wire. 16 gauge is OK with 4 ohm subs, 18 gauge is OK with 8 ohm. Copper is a must, but expensive cables don't work any better than zip cord.

[badninja99]

Originally Posted by johnung

I didn't have time to do a supper detailed installation guide but the attached photos show new wiring instructions and revised photos.

Buy full copper stranded wire. Watch out for cheap wire that's really aluminum with a copper coating. I got my best local price for some wire at Lowe's.

A couple items came from Amazon but I also found things locally at auto stores and Walmart.

Besides the Earthquake underseat subwoofer installation, everything is located in the trunk.

The AudioControl ACM-2.300 secondary amplifier gets installed on top of the cover for the BMW tool box in the right alcove of the trunk which is immediately above the car's battery.

All of the wiring runs begin in this area with connections from the AudioControl amplifier to:

1) Fused power supply wire to the car's wiring block next to the battery. See photos.

2) Ground wire connected to the car's ground wiring location between the battery and rear bumper. See photo.

3) On/Off trigger wire that connects to an Add-A-Circuit fuse that is connected to the car's fuse #146 in the fuse panel under the trunk floor panel.

4) Two pairs of speaker wire (4 wires total) that connect to the TechnicPnP harness (Connector "B") in the left trunk alcove which is connected to the HK amplifier. This connects the subwoofer speaker outputs from the HK amplifier to the LOC (Line Output Converter) that's built-in to the AudioControl ACM-2.300.

This is a special high voltage LOC because plugging in a low voltage LOC could damage the HK amplifier. Unlike many amplifiers, the HK amplifier does NOT have a line out connection to connect to a secondary amplifier. So the only way to obtain the subwoofer signals is to connect to the HK woofer speaker wires with a LOC between the HK and AudioControl amplifiers.

5) Two pairs of speaker wire (4 wires total) that connect to the TechnicPnP harness (Connector "A"). This delivers 150 watts each into 2 channels at 2-ohms from the AudioControl ACM-2.300 secondary amplifier to the car's stock underseat speaker wires that should now be connected to the upgraded Earthquake SWS-8Xi (2-ohm) underseat subwoofers.

It's best to buy 16g/18g copper stranded speaker wire that comes in a connected pair so that one wire is for speaker (+) and the other wire is for speaker (-). Be very careful to label the wires and jot down the colors of the wires at a) the underseat subwoofer connections, b) the TechnicPnP wiring harness, and c) the speaker wires connecting at the AudioControl amp. I did a table with three columns to make sure that the Left/Right speaker and +/- polarity were consistent in the connections.

Between the AudioControl ACM-2.300 and the TechnicPnP harness connected to the stock HK amplifier, there are (4) pairs for a total of (8) speaker wires running across the trunk floor (as per #4 & #5 above). To protect these wires I used cable ties to keep them in place. I ran them to the back of the trunk (nearest the bumper). It was simple to run them in the back corner of the trunk floor where the horizontal and vertical meet paralleling the bumper line. Then I ran a piece of duct tape to hold them in the corner. When the trunk floor panel goes on top, they are well protected.

This has been an overview. Please look carefully at the (14)attached photos for many more details.

Hope this helps!

johnung Thank you for the write up, you made it look easy. I installed the underseat subs yesterday and I can already tell the difference. I ended up cutting the previous wire that attached to the stock subs and stripped and plugged them into the spacers. Is that fine or should I run new lines when I install the amp?

Also did you install the grill? I'm noticing that the passenger sub is rattling a bit when the volume is at ~80%. I made sure to cut the carpet so its not near the sub.

Billfitz

I currently coded B&O EQ, should I stick with that or go back to HK? What EQ settings should I run with the amp installed?

[Billfitz]

I can't help with the EQ, I have the Hi-Fi system.

[dzeb]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

I can't help with the EQ, I have the Hi-Fi system.

I see that you are driving GT, what kind of preset you are using with match 7bmw? Installed amp yesterday with a preset from a fisher, sounds great (much better than the original amp), but was wondering can it be even better?

[Billfitz]

I don't have Match 7 BMW. If I did I'd use a combination of RTA and tuning by ear to arrive at the best result.