[F30MGM]

Originally Posted by MateoTorgy

Thank you for this thread. A few questions from a new BMW owner (340i xDrive w/ M Sport Pkg).

Engine Cover
Does the engine cover simply pop off by detaching it from those attachment points that look like pawns on a chess board? Or are there screws near the firewall / cabin air filter area that I'm not seeing (like some of the older ones have)? Do you recommend any particular technique in removing the cover? Are there any hoses or wires attached to the underside of the engine cover that I need to worry about when removing it?

Filter Housing Access
Is removal of the engine cover the only "disassembly" necessary to gain access to the filter housing?
Did you need to use a ratchet with a rotating head or socket extension with a wobble function, etc...? In looking at my engine bay, I'm having a hard time believing I'll be able to get my hand in and out of the area between the engine and that fuse box -- with or without the filter.

I'm sorry to bombard you with so many questions, but it appears you are the first individual in the world to post a "how to" DIY oil change thread for the 340i, and I don't want to wreck anything on my wife's new car when doing the first mid-interval oil change.

Thank you!

engine cover pops off just pull it off, its held on by 4 rubber grommets. nothing to worry about breaking, nothings attached to it. for the filter housing i used a 32mm deep socket and it had sufficient space for me to rotate out. just make sure its a fine tooth ratchet, itll make ratcheting out the filter easier and once u get it out about half way it should be easy to turn by hand. its not that difficult its just a oil change

[MateoTorgy]

Originally Posted by F30MGM

engine cover pops off just pull it off, its held on by 4 rubber grommets. nothing to worry about breaking, nothings attached to it. for the filter housing i used a 32mm deep socket and it had sufficient space for me to rotate out. just make sure its a fine tooth ratchet, itll make ratcheting out the filter easier and once u get it out about half way it should be easy to turn by hand. its not that difficult its just a oil change

I owe you a bottle of scotch or, equally costly, a litre of BMW 0W-20 LL-14 FE. Seriously, thank you.

[F30MGM]

Originally Posted by MateoTorgy

I owe you a bottle of scotch or, equally costly, a litre of BMW 0W-20 LL-14 FE. Seriously, thank you.

haha i prefer vodka, but when im working on cars ill drink anything lol, and no problem at all my friend, if only you lived in houston

[mtx450]

May I ask the stupid question as to why spend the money doing it yourself when it comes included with the new car maintenance from BMW?

Growing up, I always changed my own oil so I completely get it. However, I'm definitely not going to spend the money doing it myself when it's included with the car.

[F30MGM]

Originally Posted by mtx450

May I ask the stupid question as to why spend the money doing it yourself when it comes included with the new car maintenance from BMW?

Growing up, I always changed my own oil so I completely get it. However, I'm definitely not going to spend the money doing it myself when it's included with the car.

Doing it before the 10k interval, and some people like me like to change the "Break in" oil early.

[mtx450]

Originally Posted by F30MGM

Doing it before the 10k interval, and some people like me like to change the "Break in" oil early.

Understood, that makes sense. Yeah I was wondering why they don't have an initial oil change after break in.

[MateoTorgy]

Originally Posted by mtx450

May I ask the stupid question as to why spend the money doing it yourself when it comes included with the new car maintenance from BMW?

Growing up, I always changed my own oil so I completely get it. However, I'm definitely not going to spend the money doing it myself when it's included with the car.

"Free" oil changes were included in several of my last new cars and trucks. Starting about three vehicles ago, I haven't let the dealerships touch the oil. Instead, I put duct tape on the drain plug and fill cap with "NO OIL CHANGE" written with a black Sharpie. I've told them to leave the oil alone and to do the usual inspection and tire rotation. Why? Because dealerships are no better than Jiffy Lubes when it comes to doing the job right. What does "doing the job right" entail with something as basic as an oil change you ask? For starters, how about using the right oil (weight and/or conventional vs. synthetic). Or how about using a crush washer? Or how about using a torque wrench with the proper torque value rather than a gawdam breaker bar? For starters...

Everyone here understands the importance of using the oil prescribed by BMW's engineers for their particular model. My 340i requires 0W-20 LL-14 FE oil. Currently there are just a few companies that satisfy that certification. BMW, Castrol, and Fuchs. Technically it's not "required," and certain LL-01 oils suffice (per the manual). But guess which oil my local dealership uses for oil changes? They use Pennzoil that doesn't have any of the aforementioned certifications. Some say BMW oil is Pennzoil Platinum/Shell Helix. If that's the case, why no certification?

Bottom line is this: oil is the lifeblood of any vehicle. I'm very particular about oil. It's an issue that means a lot to me. I've invested a lot of time into researching the issue. It obviously means more to me than it does the dealership. I'm also a cynical conspiracy theorist who thinks BMW's conveniently round-numbered and arbitrarily-assigned 10,000-mile oil change interval was a decision made not by engineering but by accounting following a thorough cost-benefit analysis weighing their cost in servicing oil-related mechanical issues prior to 10,000 miles against their labor and materials cost in affording buyers (every car sold) "free" oil changes at 5,000 miles instead of 10,000.

That's why.

[mtx450]

Originally Posted by MateoTorgy

"Free" oil changes were included in several of my last several new cars and trucks. Starting about three vehicles ago, I haven't let the dealerships touch the oil. Instead, I put duct tape on the drain plug and fill cap with "NO OIL CHANGE" written with a black Sharpie. I've told them to leave the oil alone and to do the usual inspection and tire rotation. Why? Because dealerships are no better than Jiffy Lubes when it comes to doing the job right. What does "doing the job right" entail with something as basic as an oil change you ask? For starters, how about using the right oil (weight and/or conventional vs. synthetic). Or how about using a crush washer? Or how about using a torque wrench with the proper torque value rather than a gawdam breaker bar? For starters...

Everyone here understands the importance of using the oil prescribed by BMW's engineers for their particular model. My 340i requires 0W-20 LL-14 FE oil. Currently there are just a few companies that satisfy that certification. BMW, Castrol, and Fuchs. Technically it's not "required," and certain LL-01 oils suffice (per the manual). But guess which oil my local dealership uses for oil changes? They use Pennzoil that doesn't have any of the aforementioned certifications. Some say BMW oil is Pennzoil Platinum/Shell Helix. If that's the case, why no certification?

Bottom line is this: oil is the lifeblood of any vehicle. I'm very particular about oil. It's an issue that means a lot to me. I've invested a lot of time into researching the issue. It obviously means more to me than it does the dealership. I'm also a cynical conspiracy theorist who thinks BMW's conveniently round-numbered and arbitrarily-assigned 10,000-mile oil change interval was a decision made not by engineering but by accounting following a thorough cost-benefit analysis weighing their cost in servicing oil-related mechanical issues prior to 10,000 miles against their labor and materials cost in affording buyers (every car sold) "free" oil changes at 5,000 miles instead of 10,000.

That's why.

I understand what you are saying, but I'm curious if all BMW dealerships would use that type of oil (non-OEM). I'm having a hard time believing that BMW doesn't have control over these oil changes and would allow each dealership to use whatever they want. Isn't the maintenance plan sponsored by BMW NA?

I totally understand there is a huge margin of what they want you to think vs reality, but I can't imagine they wouldn't use OEM oil. All of my friends cars (non BMW) had OEM oil with OEM filters used when having it done by the dealership under a factory provided maintenance plan.

There is also the added value of having service records by the dealership, which would only help resale.

[shelby]

Nice write up.thanks

[MateoTorgy]

Originally Posted by mtx450

I understand what you are saying, but I'm curious if all BMW dealerships would use that type of oil (non-OEM). I'm having a hard time believing that BMW doesn't have control over these oil changes and would allow each dealership to use whatever they want. Isn't the maintenance plan sponsored by BMW NA?

I totally understand there is a huge margin of what they want you to think vs reality, but I can't imagine they wouldn't use OEM oil. All of my friends cars (non BMW) had OEM oil with OEM filters used when having it done by the dealership under a factory provided maintenance plan.

There is also the added value of having service records by the dealership, which would only help resale.

The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act doesn't require dealership service records for a consumer to enforce a new car warranty, and you certainly aren't required to have the dealership perform the changes. The only possible advantage I see as to service records is trade value with that dealership. Service records are used for "certified used car" ratings. Still, I highly doubt even that would affect trade value for the consumer. It will only affect sale price for the dealer. Dealerships rarely pass their benefits onto the consumer. Also, you need to distinguish between lessors and buyers. I'm a buyer who has no plans of selling or trading the car in within the next five to seven years or so. No car of mine is going more than 5,000 miles without an oil change. And regardless of whether you're a buyer or lessor, changing your car's oil is your duty as a self-respecting American man. After the morning mow, crank the tunes in the garage and change the oil on a car. Merica!

[MateoTorgy]

Currently my Tacoma (6 cyl TRD Off Road w/ tow package) has just over 15,000 miles. It's almost two years old. I've changed the oil myself four times using Mobil 1 Extended Performance with Mobil 1 filters. Before the last two winters, I've sprayed the undercarriage with Fluid Film and then wiped it off in the spring. Three weeks ago I bought a Lincoln grease gun and Mobil 1 Gr 2 grease cartridges and did a grease job on all five zerks at the propeller shafts' u joints. Last weekend I change the rear differential oil using Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 gear oil. The truck drives better than it did when I drove it off the lot. I plan to have it ten years from now, and the buyer may not have any clue as to the time, effort, and money that went into the truck over the years. But I will know.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by MateoTorgy

The camera was positioned between the fuse box and engine, with a close-up shot. It doesn't afford the perspective to understand that limited space. In looking at my wife's 340i, I can imagine accessing the filter housing cover with a rotating ratchet with a wobble socket extension, but I don't see how it's possible to fit a hand and arm through that space to remove an eight-inch-long filter. I'm thinking the service techs will remove the cabin air filter partition and access it from against the firewall and not between those hoses, fuse box, and engine.

The F30 cabin micro filter is not in the engine bay, so there is no cabin air filer partition to remove in B58 oil change.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by MateoTorgy

Shortly after buying the car, I made the mistake of registering at Bimmerfest and having the audacity of posting a question about DIY mid-interval oil changes. The posers had a meltdown over the mere suggestion of DIY maintenance. "Why would you change your oil within 10,000 miles?" "Why would you do something like that yourself?" It was crazy. Many posts about after-market window tint (installed at a shop of course), favorite BMW color, after-market lights (installed at a shop of course), etc etc etc... I don't care if modern oil is created by the hand of God Himself. I'm performing mid-interval changes within the 50,000-mile service period and every 5,000 miles thereafter. That's why I'm a little disappointed and frustrated with BMW's engineers for locating the filter housing in the ass crack and under air hoses and a fuse box.

It looks like other bimmerposters are also questioning why 5k oil change, so this is a common question among online forums then.

It sounds like you have enough DIY oil change experience with other cars, so just follow OP's lead and do it(don't be afraid of BMW, it is just another car), and please post pictures too.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by mtx450

May I ask the stupid question as to why spend the money doing it yourself when it comes included with the new car maintenance from BMW?

Growing up, I always changed my own oil so I completely get it. However, I'm definitely not going to spend the money doing it myself when it's included with the car.

For 2014 and up, the 10k OCI may actually become 8k miles and such based on CBS, so doing "intermediate" oil change at, say, 4-5k miles becomes a bit of an overkill with full synthetic.

On my 2013, the OCI is still 15k, and my actual CBS interval is around 13k, so once after free maintenance my car will get 6.5k OCI. Within free maintenance my car gets free annual oil change around 8-9k, and then CBS oil change around 13k(so it has < 5k between annual and CBS), and the cycle repeats.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by mtx450

I understand what you are saying, but I'm curious if all BMW dealerships would use that type of oil (non-OEM). I'm having a hard time believing that BMW doesn't have control over these oil changes and would allow each dealership to use whatever they want. Isn't the maintenance plan sponsored by BMW NA?

I totally understand there is a huge margin of what they want you to think vs reality, but I can't imagine they wouldn't use OEM oil. All of my friends cars (non BMW) had OEM oil with OEM filters used when having it done by the dealership under a factory provided maintenance plan.

There is also the added value of having service records by the dealership, which would only help resale.

The AVP bonus program does include brand recognition, so it is unlikely dealers will/can use non-OEM oil without losing a chunk of bonus.

Service departments usually have oil in bulk and they will probably keep using LL-01 on most(if not all?) bimmers.

As for Penzoil retail bottles, there are quite a few that are LL-01 approved by BMWAG.

[drexplode]

a few minor recommends to help with the DIY
-universal joint (I went with 3/8")
-6" extension
-32mm oil filter socket from ECS
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...e/004685sch01/
-paint pen to mark the filter housing and cap location prior to removal. I don't have a low-torque wrench so I just lined up the two lines...just like old school E90 filter housing! $2 from office depot.

All in all took me about 30min-ish

[MateoTorgy]

I will indeed take photos of my DIY change -- although OP did a great job. Mine will be sometime in late summer / early fall.
You guys are the best. Great thread.

[kentgbr]

Just completed an early oil and filter change (3800miles) - thanks to the OP for pictures and guidance. I used a 1 1/4" 12pt 1/2" drive socket with a 1/2"M->3/8"F drive adapter for the oil filter housing. There was room to connect and rotate a 3/8" ratchet without using a universal joint. It was not difficult to remove and replace the filter and housing despite somewhat tight clearance. Used a B58 oil change kit (7 quarts w/filter) purchased online from getbmwparts.com. I put 6 1/2 quarts back in and the oil level reads full per the electronic measurement. Will monitor again and top up as needed.

[MateoTorgy]

Originally Posted by kentgbr

Just completed an early oil and filter change (3800miles) - thanks to the OP for pictures and guidance. I used a 1 1/4" 12pt 1/2" drive socket with a 1/2"M->3/8"F drive adapter for the oil filter housing. There was room to connect and rotate a 3/8" ratchet without using a universal joint. It was not difficult to remove and replace the filter and housing despite somewhat tight clearance. Used a B58 oil change kit (7 quarts w/filter) purchased online from getbmwparts.com. I put 6 1/2 quarts back in and the oil level reads full per the electronic measurement. Will monitor again and top up as needed.

Nice work, sir.

[SMC23]

Thinking of changing my oil as well.

Are there torque values for the drain plug and oil filter to follow?

Also do you have the BMW Part #s

[MateoTorgy]

Originally Posted by scanido

Thinking of changing my oil as well.

Are there torque values for the drain plug and oil filter to follow?

Also do you have the BMW Part #s

BMW TwinPower Turbo 0W-20 oil (Mfg # 83212365954)
BMW oil filter element (Mfg # 11428583898)
Filter elements with that Mfg # come with the BMW crush washer.

[zstoja]

Originally Posted by MateoTorgy

"Free" oil changes were included in several of my last new cars and trucks. Starting about three vehicles ago, I haven't let the dealerships touch the oil. Instead, I put duct tape on the drain plug and fill cap with "NO OIL CHANGE" written with a black Sharpie. I've told them to leave the oil alone and to do the usual inspection and tire rotation. Why? Because dealerships are no better than Jiffy Lubes when it comes to doing the job right. What does "doing the job right" entail with something as basic as an oil change you ask? For starters, how about using the right oil (weight and/or conventional vs. synthetic). Or how about using a crush washer? Or how about using a torque wrench with the proper torque value rather than a gawdam breaker bar? For starters...

Everyone here understands the importance of using the oil prescribed by BMW's engineers for their particular model. My 340i requires 0W-20 LL-14 FE oil. Currently there are just a few companies that satisfy that certification. BMW, Castrol, and Fuchs. Technically it's not "required," and certain LL-01 oils suffice (per the manual). But guess which oil my local dealership uses for oil changes? They use Pennzoil that doesn't have any of the aforementioned certifications. Some say BMW oil is Pennzoil Platinum/Shell Helix. If that's the case, why no certification?

Bottom line is this: oil is the lifeblood of any vehicle. I'm very particular about oil. It's an issue that means a lot to me. I've invested a lot of time into researching the issue. It obviously means more to me than it does the dealership. I'm also a cynical conspiracy theorist who thinks BMW's conveniently round-numbered and arbitrarily-assigned 10,000-mile oil change interval was a decision made not by engineering but by accounting following a thorough cost-benefit analysis weighing their cost in servicing oil-related mechanical issues prior to 10,000 miles against their labor and materials cost in affording buyers (every car sold) "free" oil changes at 5,000 miles instead of 10,000.

That's why.

There is much more logic to change oil every year or every about 5000 miles than chage it every 10.000 miles.

(Almost) All cars have logic every year or X miles. Only BMW is something special...because it is free.

I do it by mysefl too and will. I want to keep my car as you.