Won't accelerates after manifold cleaning

aronky · 04-23-2022, 05:17 AM

I took off my intake manifold in order to clean it and did that how ever didn't have the tool to turn the engine to do the ports so I bought Liqui Moly Diesel intake carb cleaner to use for the ports. Didn't use too much of it cause it makes your cars engine shake violently. However cleared all codes and it will hardly accelerate it's spitting out these codes. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Enabled · 04-23-2022, 06:54 AM

I would guess you checked that all those sensors are plugged in to the correct plug and their power supply is ok?

Watsey · 04-23-2022, 03:28 PM

What did you use to clean the IM ?
How did you clean it ? Spray & scrub, or left it to soak in a bath of fluid ?
Did you remove all the sensors from the IM before cleaning it ? (recommended)

I tried using a (brand name) IM aerosol cleaner once (and very briefly)and it made the engine sound like it was going to detonate. Never again.

eugene89us · 04-25-2022, 08:54 AM

aronky I used LiquiMoly Diesel Intake cleaner a few times preventatively without any issues. All I normally do is disconnect charge air pipe that connects to "throttle body" (or anti-shudder valve, whatever you want to call it), put a towel over the charge pipe, else it will aerosolize small amounts of oil everywhere (made that mistake once that required cleaning of the hood and the walls, and some garage floor). Then I would have someone keep engine RPM around 2000 and gently spray it around the throttle body advancing it deeper until the can was used up. I would then reconnect charge air pipe, clean around, clear codes, and car is back to normal. Make sure the rubber seal/gasket that attaches charge pipe to throttle body is still there. Mine fell out the first time and I did not notice until I realized by charge air volume was registering higher than usual. Found the gasket at the bottom of underbody shield, replaced it, and all was back to normal. I started intake cleaning since around 30K and do it routinely every 20K miles. I have slacked off as of late, so I may or may not do it again. It cleans really well, but the intake soots up anyways to about the same extent, so I am not sure if that risk is worth much benefit TBH.

xpro · 04-27-2022, 03:48 AM

Check that you didn't mistakenly swap boost vacuum pipes. Thats the only thing I could think that would cause that.

Also have you calibrated swirl motor flaps? Theres a procedure for that, as that would cause loss of air intake if not working correctly

jtalweezy · 05-05-2022, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xpro

Check that you didn't mistakenly swap boost vacuum pipes. Thats the only thing I could think that would cause that.

Also have you calibrated swirl motor flaps? Theres a procedure for that, as that would cause loss of air intake if not working correctly

I would 100% check the swirl flap function and re-calibrate in ISTA. As stated here, there is a dedicated ABL in ISTA for this.

Enabled · 05-05-2022, 09:30 AM

No amount of calibrating will fix a short circuit to ground code.
Those codes literally mean there are sensors not responding/disconnected from their harness.

aronky · 05-26-2022, 02:58 PM

Turns out somehow not exactly sure how but a paper towel got sucked into my turbo.

aronky · 05-26-2022, 03:00 PM

Only issues I've still got with it are the boost sensor code and EGT sensor. However I've replaced the EGT sensor and every one in a while I'll start it up and won't get the "drivetrain malfunction" message with ! in the instrument cluster. So I'm thinking it must be a loose wire somewhere or something.

04-23-2022, 05:17 AM	#1
aronky New Member 3 Rep 7 Posts Drives: BMW F31 328d xDrive M-Sport Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: Atlanta, GA iTrader: (0)	Won't accelerates after manifold cleaning I took off my intake manifold in order to clean it and did that how ever didn't have the tool to turn the engine to do the ports so I bought Liqui Moly Diesel intake carb cleaner to use for the ports. Didn't use too much of it cause it makes your cars engine shake violently. However cleared all codes and it will hardly accelerate it's spitting out these codes. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Attached Images
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04-23-2022, 06:54 AM	#2
Enabled Lieutenant Colonel 1410 Rep 1,805 Posts Drives: 328xd Wagon, M2 Competition Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Houston iTrader: (0)	I would guess you checked that all those sensors are plugged in to the correct plug and their power supply is ok?
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04-23-2022, 03:28 PM	#3
Watsey Major General 6422 Rep 8,501 Posts Drives: F31 330D sDrive M Sport Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: On sabbatical. iTrader: (1)	What did you use to clean the IM ? How did you clean it ? Spray & scrub, or left it to soak in a bath of fluid ? Did you remove all the sensors from the IM before cleaning it ? (recommended) I tried using a (brand name) IM aerosol cleaner once (and very briefly)and it made the engine sound like it was going to detonate. Never again. __________________ Current : F31 330sD, remapped, Ohlins Road & Track, Millway camber plates, Quaife LSD, Stoptech brakes + Pagid RSL1 pads all round, Weichers front strut brace, Eibach front & rear anti-roll bars, Michelin MP4S.
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04-25-2022, 08:54 AM	#4
eugene89us First Lieutenant 336 Rep 365 Posts Drives: 2018 BMW 328d Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: MS iTrader: (0)	aronky I used LiquiMoly Diesel Intake cleaner a few times preventatively without any issues. All I normally do is disconnect charge air pipe that connects to "throttle body" (or anti-shudder valve, whatever you want to call it), put a towel over the charge pipe, else it will aerosolize small amounts of oil everywhere (made that mistake once that required cleaning of the hood and the walls, and some garage floor). Then I would have someone keep engine RPM around 2000 and gently spray it around the throttle body advancing it deeper until the can was used up. I would then reconnect charge air pipe, clean around, clear codes, and car is back to normal. Make sure the rubber seal/gasket that attaches charge pipe to throttle body is still there. Mine fell out the first time and I did not notice until I realized by charge air volume was registering higher than usual. Found the gasket at the bottom of underbody shield, replaced it, and all was back to normal. I started intake cleaning since around 30K and do it routinely every 20K miles. I have slacked off as of late, so I may or may not do it again. It cleans really well, but the intake soots up anyways to about the same extent, so I am not sure if that risk is worth much benefit TBH.
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04-27-2022, 03:48 AM	#5
xpro Lieutenant 171 Rep 468 Posts Drives: 335XD Join Date: Nov 2018 Location: Emerald iTrader: (0)	Check that you didn't mistakenly swap boost vacuum pipes. Thats the only thing I could think that would cause that. Also have you calibrated swirl motor flaps? Theres a procedure for that, as that would cause loss of air intake if not working correctly
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05-05-2022, 09:30 AM	#7
Enabled Lieutenant Colonel 1410 Rep 1,805 Posts Drives: 328xd Wagon, M2 Competition Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Houston iTrader: (0)	No amount of calibrating will fix a short circuit to ground code. Those codes literally mean there are sensors not responding/disconnected from their harness. __________________ -2014 328d Wagon, 8HP. Self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs. -2019 M2 Competition MT, Alpine White. Self-tuned 560hp -2016 Mini Cooper S, MT. Many plans. Others: -E36 328is. 2000 Z3 Roady. 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual. Estoril Z3M Coupe.
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05-26-2022, 02:58 PM	#8
aronky New Member 3 Rep 7 Posts Drives: BMW F31 328d xDrive M-Sport Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: Atlanta, GA iTrader: (0)	Turns out somehow not exactly sure how but a paper towel got sucked into my turbo.
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05-26-2022, 03:00 PM	#9
aronky New Member 3 Rep 7 Posts Drives: BMW F31 328d xDrive M-Sport Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: Atlanta, GA iTrader: (0)	Only issues I've still got with it are the boost sensor code and EGT sensor. However I've replaced the EGT sensor and every one in a while I'll start it up and won't get the "drivetrain malfunction" message with ! in the instrument cluster. So I'm thinking it must be a loose wire somewhere or something.
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