[Dinan_Rated]

Originally Posted by Nomana

So this is not plug&play?


I'v been thinking about it for while. Mine is f32

I have seen this done anyone here ?

[Nomana]

Originally Posted by Dinan_Rated

I have seen this done anyone here ?

yes
member here has done this but with coding.
will post his thread when i find it

[Dinan_Rated]

Originally Posted by Nomana

yes
member here has done this but with coding.
will post his thread when i find it

thanks coding huh?

[cadamson]

The only member I've seen on here to do it successfully is sonyvein, and the only explanation her gave is that physically it is plug and play, but his programmer had to do some coding to make it work... and he is in China lol. I've had the F80 gear selector for a while but have yet to find anyone in the states that knows what coding magic would be required.

[Dejan@M3Post.com]

Would it require coding if you just went for the looks? I do not need the "sport" programming, just want to get rid of the "legacy" (E60) look in a 2016 car

Like MaxBlast, I'm driving a 330e

[cadamson]

I think coding would be required because of the ECU in the M gear selector being set up for the dual clutch transmission of the M3.

[Dejan@M3Post.com]

Sorry for the confusion, I was refering to the opening post, not your comment on the F80 gear lever...

[a803sgo]

Originally Posted by Dejan@M3Post.com

Sorry for the confusion, I was refering to the opening post, not your comment on the F80 gear lever...

Straight swap no coding.

[BimmerSI]

Hi, one question please. I have a stock 2TB shifter but there seems to be an error in its ECU because led light that shows gears goes off time to time and only comes back on after car goes to sleep. I have read on the internet that there is no fix for that, just replacement.

According to ISTA+, when replacement is done programming has to be performed. Is that necessary or not?

I am asking because I do not have ISTA-P and if that is correct I would have to visit my dealer. Or could be done via ESYS??

Thank you!

BimmerSI

[MHL]

Does anybody know if the Gear selector switch, Sport from the F10 F11 F12 F13 F06 F25 will fit in a BMW F3x? REALOEM say it doenst, but if I compare these two... the look the same.

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by BimmerSI

Hi, one question please. I have a stock 2TB shifter but there seems to be an error in its ECU because led light that shows gears goes off time to time and only comes back on after car goes to sleep. I have read on the internet that there is no fix for that, just replacement.

According to ISTA+, when replacement is done programming has to be performed. Is that necessary or not?

I am asking because I do not have ISTA-P and if that is correct I would have to visit my dealer. Or could be done via ESYS??

Thank you!

BimmerSI

I have swapped several 2TB shifters and never needed to change anything in code or clear any warnings.

Originally Posted by MHL

Does anybody know if the Gear selector switch, Sport from the F10 F11 F12 F13 F06 F25 will fit in a BMW F3x? REALOEM say it doenst, but if I compare these two... the look the same.

They will work to shift gears, but not fit in same slot, as different (longer) mounting points and a cover that will not work with your F3x trim.

Even though below is the DCT shifter, the same issues apply with the 2TB shifter, which is why realoem correctly says it will not work.

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by MHL

Does anybody know if the Gear selector switch, Sport from the F10 F11 F12 F13 F06 F25 will fit in a BMW F3x? REALOEM say it doenst, but if I compare these two... the look the same.

F1x 2TB to F3x 2TB

[Kailec]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

I have swapped several 2TB shifters and never needed to change anything in code or clear any warnings.



They will work to shift gears, but not fit in same slot, as different (longer) mounting points and a cover that will not work with your F3x trim.

Even though below is the DCT shifter, the same issues apply with the 2TB shifter, which is why realoem correctly says it will not work.

Hey any tips on getting out the bottom left screw? I don't have room to get it:



It won't go any higher because the trim is in the way but not sure how to move it out of the way.

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by Kailec

Hey any tips on getting out the bottom left screw? I don't have room to get it:[/IMG]

It won't go any higher because the trim is in the way but not sure how to move it out of the way.

It was 9 months ago when I took apart the shifter and it was trial and error. I really don't have a DIY as I was in uncharted territory. I honestly don't remember every step or screw.

[Kailec]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

It was 9 months ago when I took apart the shifter and it was trial and error. I really don't have a DIY as I was in uncharted territory. I honestly don't remember every step or screw.

Nuts, the only real way to get to it is to move the trim but I'm afraid of breaking it. I've already broken a mirror and door handle..

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by Kailec

Nuts, the only real way to get to it is to move the trim but I'm afraid of breaking it. I've already broken a mirror and door handle..

Wait a minute.

You talking this screw? I thought you were talking something else on the left side of the shifter.

That one is easy. The cosmetic trim piece has to come out.

It really is easy. However the retaining screws need to come out and one is under the buttons....which need to come out.

For a quick change, I don’t even take it all the way out as 12v for lighter and the keyfob receiver need to be unplugged for that. I just tilt it up and quickly take out bolt (or reinstall bolt).

[Kailec]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

Wait a minute.

You talking this screw? I thought you were talking something else on the left side of the shifter.

That one is easy. The cosmetic trim piece has to come out.

It really is easy. However the retaining screws need to come out and one is under the buttons....which need to come out.

For a quick change, I don’t even take it all the way out as 12v for lighter and the keyfob receiver need to be unplugged for that. I just tilt it up and quickly take out bolt (or reinstall bolt).

Yes that's the one. Wasn't sure where to pry up from for the panel with the buttons is all.

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by Kailec

Yes that's the one. Wasn't sure where to pry up from for the panel with the buttons is all.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ensor/H35305fG

[Kailec]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ensor/H35305fG

Thanks figured it out a little before you sent this!

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by Kailec

Thanks figured it out a little before you sent this!

Again, sorry.

You said SCREW not BOLT in your question so I misunderstood what you were asking about.

[Kailec]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

Again, sorry.

You said SCREW not BOLT in your question so I misunderstood what you were asking about.

No worries! I think I may have bent the plastic slightly. Wasn't paying attention before but it's not 100% flush with the shifter trim. Not visibly apparent though

[cadamson]

Hey guys, thought I'd give you a little update. I found a good deal on an F80 gear selector so I decided to just plug it in and give it a shot. It works! Well, kinda haha. It throws an error message which you can bypass (maybe coding could get rid of it altogether), and manual shifting semi-works. You can upshift and downshift, but the car won't stay in M or S mode, it just kicks you back to D. As far as the lack of a Park button, I just turn the car off and it goes into park. Definitely still needs some work on the coding side, but I'm glad to find out that it can potentially work.