12-07-2012, 05:56 PM | #23 |
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Not at all.
It is very typical of BMWs and many other cars. It is why it is often necessary to hit the wheel with a rubber mallet to get the wheel off after removing the lugs. Anti-seize or a little bit of good quality grease helps a good deal. No biggie. |
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12-07-2012, 07:12 PM | #24 |
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12-07-2012, 08:34 PM | #25 |
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12-07-2012, 08:50 PM | #27 |
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12-07-2012, 09:04 PM | #28 |
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AntBabeee, there really is nothing wrong with the hubs in the pictures. Cars simply develop rust in all sorts of places as they are driven. This is normal, expected and harmless.
I can understand being surprised; this is obviously the first time you have seen a wheel off of a car. |
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12-07-2012, 09:31 PM | #29 |
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I was just making light of all of the other excitement on here about rust lately. Rust on the hubs is 100% normal and expected. Contrary to what some might suggest, it's truly harmless surface rust. There's no reason to do anything about it.
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12-07-2012, 11:03 PM | #31 | |
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12-08-2012, 04:16 AM | #32 | |
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12-08-2012, 06:15 AM | #33 | |
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I won't add any more pictures, (yes I have worse), as we'd escalate the problem... we'd not want to do that or we won't sleep. Wheels falling off, seats collapsing and the dash in our laps, all due to the tin worm, will be too much to bear. HighlandPete |
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12-08-2012, 06:46 AM | #34 |
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Okay so let's get a bit more clear on this. The rotor is made of iron. The rotor wears slightly each time the brakes are applied. The pads wear slightly each time the brakes are applied and leave "dust" on the wheels. The brake dust has pad material and rotor material (iron dust) in it. It rains, the small particles of iron dust oxidize (rust) and leave traces of rust on the surface of the wheel. Simple, and no need to be concerned.
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12-08-2012, 07:16 AM | #35 | |
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Definitely can sit in there, had it pour out on removing wheels. HighlandPete |
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12-08-2012, 08:48 AM | #36 |
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[QUOTE=Cisitalia;13117563]As HighlandPete indicates this is fairly common on BMWs. I suggest you wire brush the outside of the hub. Then as Pete suggests, brush some anti-seize on the outside of the hub. If the inside of the hub is rusty like Pets's pix, wire brush and sand the rust a way, then apply some rust-oleum paint protection.
Do NOT put anti-seize on lug bolts. Only wire brush them. That is a whole other topic.[/QUOTE] I'm curious. Why is that? |
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12-08-2012, 09:12 AM | #37 | |
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Lubricant will change the tensile loading on the bolts at a given torque value, as a high percentage of the input torque is applied to overcome friction. If we reduce the friction (using lubricant) and use the same input torque, it is easy to overload the bolt. Definitely don't lubricate under the head of the bolts, as 'underhead torque' required for a wet bolt, is completely different to a dry bolt. Underhead lubricant along with lubricant on the thread, reducing thread torque, and the bolt tension will be much higher at a given input torque. But as said, it is a whole other topic. HighlandPete Last edited by HighlandPete; 12-08-2012 at 09:18 AM.. |
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12-08-2012, 09:23 AM | #38 |
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Looks like we need o-rings on the center caps now. I cannot believe this critical engineering oversight by the heralded BMW engineering organization. Maybe it has something to do with the OP's proximity to the Pacific ocean??????
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12-08-2012, 09:24 AM | #39 | |
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[QUOTE=CE750Jockey;13123176]
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If you must use anti-seize, then you need to back down the applied torque by about 20-40% of the dry fastener torque specification. Don’t use anti-seize on these types of bolts and torque them to the manufacturers recommendation (which defaults to dry values when not specified). Wire brush the bolts if looking a little bad and if really bad you can run an ez-out through the bolt holes to clean them up as well. Keep in mind wheel lugs that are used on/off many times over the years should be replaced periodically. Also note worthy is, some manufacturers recommend replacing the brake caliper bolts every time they are taken off. Yeah but not many of us do that, but it is certainly a good idea to replace them every once in awhile. That is another good reason not to put anti-seize on brake caliper bolts. In some applications when it is allowed to use wet or dry conditions, the manufacturer will provide both torque specification values. When the manufacturer designs a fastener application they typically pick a torque value about 80% of the ultimate yield strength of the fastener. That value is typically a dry value with no lubricant or anti-seize. So the wet value will be typically about 20-40% less torque. So you can see it is entirely possible to exceed the yield strength of the fastener with anti-seize, unless you reduce the torque. |
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12-08-2012, 09:33 AM | #41 | |
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[QUOTE=Cisitalia;13123278]
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12-08-2012, 09:37 AM | #42 | |
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Perhaps it is common, and a reason for more water ingress these days. HighlandPete |
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12-08-2012, 09:41 AM | #43 |
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Not like it rains much where you live... I really think the OP's issue is living in or near San Francisco.
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12-08-2012, 09:44 AM | #44 | |
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Many just don't understand torque, let alone wet and dry values, and I mean tyre shops as well. I've seen the guys using a torque wrench and after setting the value, then proceed to apply more force past the setting.... HighlandPete |
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