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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > F30 DIYs and Coding Discussions > F30 335i M Performance Exhaust Install DIY (with Exhaust Clips)
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      03-24-2015, 06:04 PM   #45
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Is this the same process for the 435i?
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      03-24-2015, 06:18 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TriniJots
Is this the same process for the 435i?
It's the same muffler no difference. Maybe the length of the tips may be different but I doubt it, but that wouldn't affect the install process.
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      03-24-2015, 06:19 PM   #47
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Yes same process. I did this with my 428.
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      05-20-2015, 11:01 PM   #48
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what is the valve plug for?
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      05-31-2015, 01:37 AM   #49
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What about if i just simply unplugged the wire, is the valve still would be opening?
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      06-01-2015, 12:05 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kk201358
What about if i just simply unplugged the wire, is the valve still would be opening?
Few have done this when the valve is in the open position. I've heard that there are no issues. Only thing is if you take it in To a dealer and they read diagnostics that will come up.
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      10-03-2015, 01:18 PM   #51
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I have the 428 and I'm putting a 335 on it. Which clamp do I buy? The 428 or the 335?
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      10-03-2015, 02:21 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zman1237
I have the 428 and I'm putting a 335 on it. Which clamp do I buy? The 428 or the 335?
Neither clamp will work. You have to have a custom exhaust piece made. Or you can have them weld them together.
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      10-03-2015, 02:25 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dd1981
Quote:
Originally Posted by zman1237
I have the 428 and I'm putting a 335 on it. Which clamp do I buy? The 428 or the 335?
Neither clamp will work. You have to have a custom exhaust piece made. Or you can have them weld them together.
Okay thanks. And this is because I have the f32?
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      10-03-2015, 02:28 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zman1237
Quote:
Originally Posted by dd1981
Quote:
Originally Posted by zman1237
I have the 428 and I'm putting a 335 on it. Which clamp do I buy? The 428 or the 335?
Neither clamp will work. You have to have a custom exhaust piece made. Or you can have them weld them together.
Okay thanks. And this is because I have the f32?
No not at all, it's because your 428i exhaust is like 2.75" inches and the 335i is about 3.10" I measured it with a caliper. So ultimately and exhaust shop will have to fab up a piece for you that can slide on your 428 exhale and the stock 335 muffler. Then they can either weld them together or use U clams.

In either case it's not hard or expensive don't let them b.s. You!
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      10-03-2015, 02:51 PM   #55
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Excellent! Thank you for your help. That really cleared things up for me.
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      10-03-2015, 02:58 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zman1237
Excellent! Thank you for your help. That really cleared things up for me.
Not a problem.
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      01-10-2017, 02:17 PM   #57
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I removed the complete exhaust this past weekend. It's part of my write-up for a dry run of removing and replacing the rear diff.

http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...9#post21090999

The write-up has a PDF attachment that includes ISTAD procedures on how to remove the complete exhaust.

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I drove my sleepy self to the Auto Crafts Shop at a nearby military installation at 7am in the morning. BRRRR! It was 11F. I was the first (and only) person to arrive around 7am. Yes, I know… I’m crazy… or so I’m told.



I had the opportunity to do a more thorough reconnaissance of this rear diff removal/replacement procedure this weekend. This is a partial dry-run for a future diff swap. I’m still deciding between the BMW M Performance Limited Slip Differential (LSD) and another aftermarket clutch based LSD. In the end, I probably see myself going with the BMW M Performance LSD. I will probably keep the original final drive in case I would like to use it as a core unit for aftermarket clutch based LSD in the future.


Swapping out brake pads (equipped with M Sport Brake Option)

I began by swapping out F80/82 M3/M4 brake pads (OEM - Textar) for my original M Sport Brake Pads (OEM - Jurid). It’s been getting colder and I prefer to have a bit less brake dust in the months when I’m can’t wash the car outside as often. Brake fluid remains the same with Castrol SRF.
I’ll miss the better feel of the M3/M4 brake pads. It feels more linear and provides greater braking force at higher speeds, but they’ll be back in action sometime in the spring in anticipation of more AutoX and HPDEs. I always use Permatex Ceramic Extreme Lubricant and never have an issue with noise with hotter/more abrasive pads if applied properly.




Now we begin to remove components to get better eyes on the entire propeller shaft… I simply followed the procedures in the PDF I have attached with this post.

Removing center chassis reinforcement plate.



Removing the complete exhaust. I’m not a fan of cutting the exhaust so I decided to remove the complete exhaust. You’ll need another person to help you (my GF who has a 2016 X3 35i). You’ll also want to have 2 jack stands to support the exhaust.



Slackening (and then eventually removing) center exhaust mount. Requires E10 socket (Inverted Torx bit)



Slackening (and then eventually removing) mounting brackets at axle back (muffler) section.





Loosening the V-band that mates/seals the downpipe to the catalytic converter section of the complete exhaust system. This takes a bit of effort as the bolt and nut are heavily rusted. This is normal. I was able to do it with a standard 3/8” drive ratchet. You cannot re-use this part. It’s one time use which means you better seat it properly when you are re-installing the exhaust.



Exhaust removed.



Once you remove the exhaust, remove the heat shields. You can probably do the LSD removal/install by removing the heat shield furthest to the rear, but I removed both heat shields because I wanted to get a good look at the transmission, transmission mounts, flexible disc, and forward portion of propeller shaft as well.
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