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      03-08-2014, 09:08 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossifumi View Post
So basically what you are saying is that you have it at the highest possible setting?
Got any profile shots?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krelle View Post
Highest setting, yes. 5mm higher than the official recommendation.
And I have no difficulties driving in snow when we go to Sweden for the winter holidays ie no ploughing :-)

No profile pics available, maybe later.
/Krelle
Thank you for your response Krelle. A profile pic is a must (pretty please). 25mm drop seems like a good drop. I think I might go with 30 though. Unfortunately, I probably won't have time to do the install until a few weeks later.
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      03-09-2014, 05:04 AM   #24
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Hi,
I'm in Sardinia, Italy working and will be for 2-4 weeks. You'll have to wait.

On http://www.f30post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=954392 Fazerfahrer's 330d is lowered on AC Schnitzer springs, approx. 30mm.
This is very close to the mine.

...Will have the boobie take one later today :-)
/Krelle
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      03-09-2014, 12:47 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ex o View Post
Thank you for your response Krelle. A profile pic is a must (pretty please). 25mm drop seems like a good drop. I think I might go with 30 though. Unfortunately, I probably won't have time to do the install until a few weeks later.
Side pic, 25mm on 18" winther wheels
/Krelle
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      03-10-2014, 12:03 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krelle View Post
Side pic, 25mm on 18" winther wheels
/Krelle
Thanks Krelle. This helps out a great deal in setting up my rear. The 25mm drop for the rear looks right on the mark with the H&R Sport Springs; which is what I want. However, the front looks a bit higher. Thankfully, the front is 100 times easier to adjust than the rear.
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      03-10-2014, 08:02 PM   #27
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EX O,
You wanted to see this?











1 finger gap both front and back. I'm already scraping the front lip going into driveways straight on.

This picture was before the m-sport bumper install and the additional 3mm drop.


Last edited by _bdiddyb_; 03-11-2014 at 08:23 AM..
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      03-11-2014, 04:20 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _bdiddyb_ View Post
EX O,
You wanted to see this?











1 finger gap both front and back. Pictures you see, are all rears. I'm already scrapping the front lip going into driveways straight on.

This picture was before the m-sport bumper install and the additional 3mm drop.

Well dayum! Thank you for taking the time to take these photos. i really really appreciate it. Was the OEM spring cup required for installation? It seems like you can't really turn the perch that much because the OEM cup lip is in the way.
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      03-11-2014, 08:22 AM   #29
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The cup can be removed if pried out, but the instructions from Bilstein was not to remove it. If I loosen the spring perch up into the cup, the wheel lip will be inside the wheel well. Not digging the low-rider look.

Last edited by _bdiddyb_; 03-11-2014 at 11:56 AM..
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      03-11-2014, 09:29 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _bdiddyb_ View Post
The cup is soldered to the frame, you don't wanna remove it. If I loosen the spring perch up into the cup, the wheel lip will be inside the wheel well. Not digging the low-rider look.

Interesting I don't have that cup on my 2012 328. Wonder if this is a 335 thing or 2013 thing?

Diddy, hows the ride? Any noises on the front end when you crank the wheel like a spring loading and popping?
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      03-11-2014, 11:55 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dippydo View Post
Interesting I don't have that cup on my 2012 328. Wonder if this is a 335 thing or 2013 thing?

Diddy, hows the ride? Any noises on the front end when you crank the wheel like a spring loading and popping?
It's on my 2013 335i, part# 13 "spring pocket"
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.d...13&hg=33&fg=45

Ex O.
I take it back, it can be removed; but the instructions from Bilstein was not to remove it.

I'm on 20's and 35front/30rear tire profile. Initial ride was rough, I could hear and felt every road cracks. It's been 3 months now. I changed the tire pressure to 35psi front - 40psi back and dialed in stiffness of 5. Springs and shocks have worn in; ride is much more comfortable. Definitely more stiffer on the rebound from before (18's square on 45 profile tires with "sport" suspension).

I regards to the popping/cranking sound when steering wheel is turned and driving over a dip. Some of you have experienced this, I have not noticed it on my install.
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      03-11-2014, 12:38 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dippydo View Post
Interesting I don't have that cup on my 2012 328. Wonder if this is a 335 thing or 2013 thing?

Diddy, hows the ride? Any noises on the front end when you crank the wheel like a spring loading and popping?
Would you mind taking a picture of your rear spring? Your car does have the spring pocket. Someone installed the suspension for you?
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      03-11-2014, 12:52 PM   #33
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NO popping/cranking sound on mine either
/Krelle
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      03-11-2014, 04:57 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _bdiddyb_ View Post
Would you mind taking a picture of your rear spring? Your car does have the spring pocket. Someone installed the suspension for you?
I think what he meant was that he is not using the spring cup/pocket. This would make sense to me as you get the full range of height adjustability.

Here's a pic from an E90.

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      03-11-2014, 07:03 PM   #35
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When I installed mine, it felt as if the spring cup needed to be there for a more secure fit, and protection for that thin rubber ring. I see your point though, removing the cup allows for another 3/4 inch of perch movement.
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      03-11-2014, 11:35 PM   #36
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Yes mine is gone. I have no idea if it was there before as I had a shop do it for me.

Mine does make that noise after the car has been sitting for a bit like overnight and it gets to unload. Once I drive it and it loads the spring and strut it doesn't make the noise. I also have it lowered well beyond the "recommended" by H&R. I have 7/8" of thread left on the front and I can spin the spring with my hand. Not a lot of tension on the spring. If I raise it up say another half inch the noise goes away, but I like it at this height and seems to be even more planted and rail like. Drive is still very good, but if you are on a rough road you know it.. Tucking about 3/4" of the tire.
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Last edited by Dippydo; 03-11-2014 at 11:41 PM..
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      03-12-2014, 02:38 AM   #37
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Spring on F30 335.
The original spring holder are not to be used as the threaded piece replaces this and the "spring anti noise thingy".
Picture show correct mounting according to Bilstein.
(As you might have noticed, the OE spring holder and the Bilstein threaded piece look almost identical at the top).

/Krelle
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      03-12-2014, 10:08 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krelle View Post
Spring on F30 335.
The original spring holder are not to be used as the threaded piece replaces this and the "spring anti noise thingy".
Picture show correct mounting according to Bilstein.
(As you might have noticed, the OE spring holder and the Bilstein threaded piece look almost identical at the top).

/Krelle
Thanks Krelle. This is exactly what I was looking for. As I suspected, the OEM Spring Holder/Cup/Pocket is not needed for the PSS10s. BTW, looks like you've seen a tough winter. It's pretty gnarly under your wheel wells.
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      03-13-2014, 04:29 AM   #39
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Gnarly eh. I'll gain 2 sec to the 100 mark when I get it cleaned.
I found a drwg. in the instruction as well. Please have a look at page 20.
Good luck
/Krelle
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      03-13-2014, 01:22 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ex o View Post
I think what he meant was that he is not using the spring cup/pocket. This would make sense to me as you get the full range of height adjustability.

Here's a pic from an E90.

Just in case you're wondering why the E90's spring has both an adjusting nut, and a locking nut and our doesn't..
I allready asked Bilstein and this is what they supply for the 335 F30.
/Krelle
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      03-13-2014, 02:49 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krelle View Post
Just in case you're wondering why the E90's spring has both an adjusting nut, and a locking nut and our doesn't..
I allready asked Bilstein and this is what they supply for the 335 F30.
/Krelle
Interesting how they answered; they just avoided your question. I think they just wanted to keep their cost down. Although the locking nut isn't really needed for the rear, I think it would've been nice to have.
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      03-13-2014, 05:00 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ex o View Post
Interesting how they answered; they just avoided your question. I think they just wanted to keep their cost down. Although the locking nut isn't really needed for the rear, I think it would've been nice to have.
Oh no, they did not avoid it. I questioned their drawing which had only one , because I knew yhe HR set had 2 nuts. They confirmed one was correct.
I'll try to get an explanation on why there is a difference though, (E90-->F30)
Will let you know how they reply.
/Krelle
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      03-17-2014, 08:30 AM   #43
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Here is the reason why Bdiddyb should have his cup holder removed.

I got a swift reply from the Product Management, Bilstein, Germany.

They explained that due to the fact that no side forces has effect on the springs on the F30, the locking nut is not needed.
On the E90 you need an adjusting ring/locking nut due to the fact that side forces can course twisting of the spring plate…

Everything is o.k.!
/Krelle
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      03-28-2014, 02:24 PM   #44
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I finally got around to installing these yesterday and so far I love them. They can go a lot higher than I thought. I think you can get them to stock height (Sport Line). Initially, I was riding high. After adjusting the height, I think I'm a little too low now. I'll fine tune it this weekend. The great thing about these coilovers is that you can actually turn the spring perches on the rear without taking it all apart.

Also, I have no noise so far.
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