[krith]

I am sharing my most recent car journey & experience so that it might be knowledgeable or helpful to others. I have learned much here by reading over the years.

Rod Bearings -
I have seen more and more that the later build date N55's rod bearings have been holding up well.
I can echo that sentiment myself after replacing them this February.

Background -
435i with a November 2014 build date and 82K miles on the clock.
I am the second owner off lease buy at 42K miles. The car has been running a BM3 stage 2 (93 octane) tune for over six years and the past 40K miles. Driven spiritedly every moment, it was safe to do so. This ride is fastidiously maintained to a level of obsession only car lovers can understand.

So when a leaking oil pan came up on the to-do list and the shop quoted a price, I am sure it was fair for the work. But jaw-dropping. I said hold my beer. I got this.

I will discuss that journey in a different thread and keep this to my rod-bearing findings if others consider this job when they only have a leaking oil pan gasket. You may want to evaluate that additional effort to do the bearings based on this news.
However, I have peace of mind knowing that the bearings are renewed, which is priceless.

After inspection. I see no reason why these bearings wouldn't go another 80K+

[rlesko]

Thanks for sharing! Rod bearing issues on this platform are definitely overblown. That being said, be smart and prime your oil systems when replacing OFHG, change oil on scheduled, keep oil topped up, etc.

[krith]

Originally Posted by rlesko

Thanks for sharing! Rod-bearing issues on this platform are definitely overblown. That being said, be smart and prime your oil systems when replacing OFHG, change oil on scheduled, keep oil topped up, etc.

Absolutely! Out of sheer paranoia, I first hand-cranked the engine over a few times, then primed it four times with a rest interval. While on a battery charger.

She runs! And she runs well.

While I was working on the oil system, I replaced the oil thermostat, hoping that lower temperatures would prolong the gaskets. The oil pan gasket was crunchy and sad.

Liqui Moly Molygen + UV light shows no leaks so far.
I will do another oil change after a week of driving to ensure the assembly lube is out of the system, too.

The car is still on jacks as I wrap up the suspension upgrades. This has been an epic winter project.

[fortythirtyfive]

Great job on tackling this yourself.

Out of curiosity what was the quoted costs? I'm quite lucky that my local shop I use and very much trust are quoting roughly 9-10 hours at £65 an hour.

I had a moment last weekend when I did my oil change, I cut the filter open and found two pin prick dots of silver. Nothing you could really feel but it was there under light, I know filters are there to catch any debris but this had me factoring in bearings too.

Out of curiosity do you ever cut your used oil filters open for inspection and if so ever find much?

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by rlesko

Thanks for sharing! Rod bearing issues on this platform are definitely overblown. That being said, be smart and prime your oil systems when replacing OFHG, change oil on scheduled, keep oil topped up, etc.

I'm of this opinion. I think rod bearing failures are usually a result of oiling failures.

I think this is what happened to my 2014 335i with 145k miles on the odometer at VIR. The engine oil temps crept up from 240F to 285F over the course of a lap before the engine put a hole in the bottom of it which feels like an oiling (cooling) issue to me rather than a rod bearing since I didn't hear any rod knock prior to the failure.

[krith]

Originally Posted by fortythirtyfive

Great job on tackling this yourself.

Out of curiosity what was the quoted costs? I'm quite lucky that my local shop I use and very much trust are quoting roughly 9-10 hours at £65 an hour.

I had a moment last weekend when I did my oil change, I cut the filter open and found two pin prick dots of silver. Nothing you could really feel but it was there under light, I know filters are there to catch any debris but this had me factoring in bearings too.

Out of curiosity do you ever cut your used oil filters open for inspection and if so ever find much?

From the only BMW performance shop I have or would take my car to here in Raleigh, NC, USA.
I was quoted after taxes (out the door) $2,800 USD (2,200 Pounds). I don't have a breakdown of the hours over parts, as I opted out of the service. However, I would judge half that to be labor based on what I purchased the parts for and knowing their shop rate is $110 - $120 USD an hour. They have a high shop rate because they can.

Because I did the job myself, I went above and beyond. Such as replacing the windage tray, water pump & thermostat, upgrading the hot side charge pipe as it was right there and the sway bar, degreasing the entire chassis, painting the rusted spots on the subframe, using all new hardware when remounting the subframe, cleaned all the electrical connectors; the list goes on you get the idea.

I have not bothered cutting one open before when inspecting the filters. I jump back and forth between the MANN and the WIX filters. I like the WIX because of its wire mesh cage support. It's very sturdy with good flow. Due to this wire mesh, I have not been in the habit of opening them up. I only spread apart the fins and inspect for glitter with a light.

I've never really seen anything that would cause me concern. Some minor microscopic
slivery/aluminum (or aluminium if you prefer) deposits but never a mix of colors that would indicate copper. Copper would be your most significant bearing wear indicator, from my understanding.

[luca.aluigi]

Hi guys,
i am new member, but i follow in background the forum since 2019.

i am doing a pretty time consuming and expansive job (DIY), but this is going to be an insurance for the life of my engine.
The complete S55 oiling system installation and con rod bearing replacement.
I spent lot of time to build my Bill Of Material, i ordered every single parts from Germany.
My baby have 31000miles on it, EWG MY2015, 326HP the last version of N55.
I also replace the bearings with the OEM One for keep the BMW tolerances, i know ACL and King sputtered are perfect solution too.
The OCI has been:
-19k miles
-24k miles (my ownership)
-25,5k miles
-26.7k miles
-28k miles
-29k miles
-30.5k miles
I am using ISTA for torque specs, the tool for hold the chain sproket is necessary, i build by myself the tool.
Just 1 cons, if you have the ZF8HP auto trans, you lost the inspection port in the sump for the torque converter bolts.
I order the M2 "OG" scavenging pump instead of the S55 scavenging pump, in this way i save 60 bucks for the plug (BMW-11418335879), the pump does not have the suction pipe for the second turbo direct from factory.

I observed some metal debris embedded on my bearings, for this purpose i inspected the VANOS solenoid and the oil pressure control solenoid, and the protective mash was very clean from metal particle.
next step, i will replace the valve cover gasket for inspect the Valvetronic gears and intake camshaft.

Guys let me know how looks like the journals and the bearings.

Below some pics

[luca.aluigi]

And here the complete parts list with BMW code for the S55 oiling system retrofit, rod bearing are not included.
With this list i save some money, instead of buy the complete kit from FCP euro or ECS Tuning. Sorry for the price in Euro, probably in US many of these are different.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by luca.aluigi

Hi guys,
i am new member, but i follow in background the forum since 2019.

i am doing a pretty time consuming and expansive job (DIY), but this is going to be an insurance for the life of my engine.
The complete S55 oiling system installation and con rod bearing replacement.
I spent lot of time to build my Bill Of Material, i ordered every single parts from Germany.
My baby have 31000miles on it, EWG MY2015, 326HP the last version of N55.
I also replace the bearings with the OEM One for keep the BMW tolerances, i know ACL and King sputtered are perfect solution too.
The OCI has been:
-19k miles
-24k miles (my ownership)
-25,5k miles
-26.7k miles
-28k miles
-29k miles
-30.5k miles
I am using ISTA for torque specs, the tool for hold the chain sproket is necessary, i build by myself the tool.
Just 1 cons, if you have the ZF8HP auto trans, you lost the inspection port in the sump for the torque converter bolts.
I order the M2 "OG" scavenging pump instead of the S55 scavenging pump, in this way i save 60 bucks for the plug (BMW-11418335879), the pump does not have the suction pipe for the second turbo direct from factory.

I observed some metal debris embedded on my bearings, for this purpose i inspected the VANOS solenoid and the oil pressure control solenoid, and the protective mash was very clean from metal particle.
next step, i will replace the valve cover gasket for inspect the Valvetronic gears and intake camshaft.

Guys let me know how looks like the journals and the bearings.

Below some pics

I have the same retrofit kit sitting in my garage. It's just a matter of finding enough time to do the job. It's going to take a while for me.

I'll probably put in the H&R sway bar while I'm in there doing this job.

[luca.aluigi]

Yep, it took me about 1 month, but you have to consider iam a person that clean and inspect everythings.
The oil level sensor cable have enought lengh but is necessary to re-route the cabling.
S55 sump is deeper than the original one than is a little bit prominent respect the underbody splash shield. Let me know when you start the S55 upgrade "adventure"

[krith]

Wow, very nice luca.aluigi I am jelous of this upgrade. But I spent my funds on coilovers and swaybars ^_^ and kept the oiling system stock.

I had a hell of a time seating the oil pump back to the sprocket. I ended up ordering another set of oil pan bolts as I had already torqued the long bolts to the pump before realizing I was not perfectly on. I was tired and made a mistake. Anxiety went to level 10. Worrying I mesed my engine up.

I am on day 21 with the car on jacks myself. I ordered the new Turner Motor Sports front and rear swaybars from ECS Tuning, but the front did not clear the subframe. So, I had to wait for Dinan. Shipped only three States away from me but it took 8 days for delivery even with over night shipping. Never been a fan of Dinan customer service and drsagging their feet to put the product in a box but there hardware is decent. I would have gone with H&R, but my issue is with the rear end, and feedback on these forums made me think the H&R rear was too snappy.
Either way both subframes are back in, but with the KW coilovers lowering the car, I needed to adjust my SPL front control arms and one of titanium pinch bolt rounded out on me; tonight will be the day 3 trying to extract it. Wish me luck! -SPL... What was ever wrong with a nice sold jam nut?

Per your rod bearing and crank journal wear question, luca.aluigi.
In my novice opinion, your bearings are showing some wear for the low mileage of your car. The journals have clear scoring/marring.
For refrenmce see my journals. They had a mirro finish.

[rlesko]

@krith I am very happy with my Eibach sway bar set , not sure if you considered those.

[luca.aluigi]

Originally Posted by krith

Wow, very nice luca.aluigi I am jelous of this upgrade. But I spent my funds on coilovers and swaybars ^_^ and kept the oiling system stock.

I had a hell of a time seating the oil pump back to the sprocket. I ended up ordering another set of oil pan bolts as I had already torqued the long bolts to the pump before realizing I was not perfectly on. I was tired and made a mistake. Anxiety went to level 10. Worrying I mesed my engine up.

I am on day 21 with the car on jacks myself. I ordered the new Turner Motor Sports front and rear swaybars from ECS Tuning, but the front did not clear the subframe. So, I had to wait for Dinan. Shipped only three States away from me but it took 8 days for delivery even with over night shipping. Never been a fan of Dinan customer service and drsagging their feet to put the product in a box but there hardware is decent. I would have gone with H&R, but my issue is with the rear end, and feedback on these forums made me think the H&R rear was too snappy.
Either way both subframes are back in, but with the KW coilovers lowering the car, I needed to adjust my SPL front control arms and one of titanium pinch bolt rounded out on me; tonight will be the day 3 trying to extract it. Wish me luck! -SPL... What was ever wrong with a nice sold jam nut?

Per your rod bearing and crank journal wear question, luca.aluigi.
In my novice opinion, your bearings are showing some wear for the low mileage of your car. The journals have clear scoring/marring.
For refrenmce see my journals. They had a mirro finish.

krith, your engine is like new, the journals are perfect for the mileage and you have to consider that is tuned.
Frequent oil change is the key. Mine have MHD stage 1, i am the second owner, the first oil has been changed late at 19k miles

Coilover is another necessary upgrade, i am another jack stand warrior, great job man!

[yupetc]

Frequent oil change, keep your oil level up, never pull so many G's to slop the oil and cavitate the oil pump with air pockets, your bearing can go right under 200k miles without a problem. Many other issues would have plagued you before this point anyways. And know this, our bearing gaps are on the smaller side, so people don't generally think about this, but they spun bearings because oil starvation with such small bearing gap is the recipe for overheating the bearing and cause it to either spin or weld onto the journals.

Anyway, great job, guys.

[krith]

Originally Posted by rlesko

@krith I am very happy with my Eibach sway bar set , not sure if you considered those.

I did! They don't explicitly say they are compatible with the F36 chassis, but they do note compatibility with the F32. I have an F36. So there was that concern, as the front subframe part numbers between the two differ. More importantly, they are out of stock state-side. ^_^

Other thoughts -
With the M-Sport suspension, I was actually quite happy with the front end after going 100% mono-ball and did not see the need for a sway bar in the front. However, this leaking oil pan paved the way for an opportunity, and I like making excuses to upgrade.

Other bars I considered: Turner (Only because KW made it & it was the latest bar on the market; however, it did not fit), H&R (I worried about the rear being too snappy, especially with a compounding KW coil over upgrade I fitted), I forget who makes the yellow bar but I recall it not being available either.

Originally Posted by luca.aluigi

krith, your engine is like new, the journals are perfect for the mileage and you have to consider that is tuned.
Frequent oil change is the key. Mine have MHD stage 1, i am the second owner, the first oil has been changed late at 19k miles

Coilover is another necessary upgrade, i am another jack stand warrior, great job man!

I keep a maintenance log of everything I do with notes on how I like certain filters and so on. This was my first entry ^_^

Performed Maintenance
Feb 2018 - 41255 mi
Oil Change & Engine Air Filter
Tire Tread: FD 9/32 FP 10/32 RD 9/32 RP 7/32
Degreased - Engine, Chassis, Wheels & Brakes
Waxed and Interior Detailed

I knew that I wanted an F36 M-Sport in Estoril blue, so I already had oil, filters, etc. on hand before buying the car. I drove home after finding one in the city I lived in that met my specifications and then proceeded to put ~40 hours into the car from Thursday night until Monday when I drove her for the first time to the office. Check out the engine air filter.

Maintenance, mostly oil interval, in my opinion, will keep these engines running strong.

[rlesko]

Originally Posted by krith

I did! They don't explicitly say they are compatible with the F36 chassis, but they do note compatibility with the F32. I have an F36. So there was that concern, as the front subframe part numbers between the two differ. More importantly, they are out of stock state-side. ^_^

Ohhh! things I take for granted having a regular ole F30. It seems odd that there was an incompatibility though seeing as though the stock bar is the same for the F36 as it is for F30-35. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...&q=31356792118 . The same is true for xDrive.

There are differences between RWD and xDrive, is there a chance Turner sent you the wrong variant?

[krith]

Originally Posted by rlesko

Ohhh! things I take for granted having a regular ole F30. It seems odd that there was an incompatibility though seeing as though the stock bar is the same for the F36 as it is for F30-35. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...&q=31356792118 . The same is true for xDrive.

There are differences between RWD and xDrive, is there a chance Turner sent you the wrong variant?

It was the correct part number on the sticker, at least for the Turner front sway bar.
See the following pictures of the clearance issue. The Dinan was perfect.
The Turner bar is huge, by the way. 32 mm, and I think that is the primary issue. They went too big and need to go home.

[rlesko]

Originally Posted by krith

It was the correct part number on the sticker, at least for the Turner front sway bar.
See the following pictures of the clearance issue. The Dinan was perfect.
The Turner bar is huge, by the way. 32 mm, and I think that is the primary issue. They went too big and need to go home.

Oh, I see! So any 28mm bar would probably fit, then?

[luca.aluigi]

Hi all, in the meanwhile i replace the valve cover gasket and the Valvetronic oil squirter, like preventive maintenance , to be honest my purpose was check the intake camshaft and the valvetronic worm gear, because i was very worried about the wear on my con rod bearings and journals, in particular metal debris embedded on bearings arise on me the suspect that might be metal debris stuck on the squirter.
Below some pictures, everything seems normal and clean from oil deposits.
Yesterday i prime the oil, crank the engine several time without spark plug and fuel pump fuse (number 165 in the trunk, 20Amp).

[krith]

Originally Posted by rlesko

Oh, I see! So any 28mm bar would probably fit, then?

Yep! The 28mm bar fits with good clearance.

Originally Posted by luca.aluigi

Hi all, in the meanwhile i replace the valve cover gasket and the Valvetronic oil squirter, like preventive maintenance , to be honest my purpose was check the intake camshaft and the valvetronic worm gear, because i was very worried about the wear on my con rod bearings and journals, in particular metal debris embedded on bearings arise on me the suspect that might be metal debris stuck on the squirter.
Below some pictures, everything seems normal and clean from oil deposits.
Yesterday i prime the oil, crank the engine several time without spark plug and fuel pump fuse (number 165 in the trunk, 20Amp).

You are brave. I have yet to replace the Valve cover; I am thinking of pairing that with a timing chain job near or at 100K miles. That job I might hire out. Timing scares me, but so did doing rod bearings, and after loads of research, job done!


I see some minor scoring on the camshaft where the lobes make contact, but to my novice eye, it doesn't look so bad.

Good work!

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by krith

You are brave. I have yet to replace the Valve cover; I am thinking of pairing that with a timing chain job near or at 100K miles. That job I might hire out. Timing scares me, but so did doing rod bearings, and after loads of research, job done!


I see some minor scoring on the camshaft where the lobes make contact, but to my novice eye, it doesn't look so bad.

Good work!

Timing chain is not an issue with the N55.

[krith]

Originally Posted by F32Fleet

Timing chain is not an issue with the N55.

You know, funny you say that. I had an N20 before my N55, which is where the thinking came from. While going to bed, I opted to look into this project, as one does when falling asleep. You know, usual stuff, right? Looking for car projects when trying to sleep. And I came to the same conclusion. Glad this will not be on my 100K mile to-do list.