[Domeplex]

Hi all - recently got myself a used F30, had it about a week and i get back to my car yesterday and an animal (looks like bird or cat) has put some scratches in the bonnet.

I usually wouldn't care or attempt to repair it but being my first nice car I want to keep on top of it. Having not looked after cars before, I have no idea what I'm doing. I've read loads of conflicting information on what to use (e.g. t-cut or not?!) and don't really know what to do. ANY help/advice appreciated.

I've also read a lot about turtlewax clearcoat repair kits - anyone had any luck with that?

Pics in link:

View post on imgur.com

View post on imgur.com

[Billfitz]

Those scratches don't appear to be deep. First rub the area with this:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-03064-Triz.../dp/B005RNGL9O
Spray the spot with water that's had a few drops of detergent added. Rub it only enough to dull the paint, using a backing pad with the trizact. Then rub with this or the equivalent:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-36058-Perf...EY5SAT54WZQJAD

Then rub with this or the equivalent:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Perfect-It...AYV5DQRPXFWEMB

Then finish it off with whatever sealant you use on the car. If you don't use sealant you should. I use Menzerna Power Lock.

[Domeplex]

Thank you for the help. When you say Rub the area - do you mean with a cloth such as an old t-shirt or do I need a machine polisher?

Also - the rubbing compound, I'm guessing the idea is to remove the fine scratches the sand paper leaves behind?

Finally - is the rubbing compound the same as T-cut or does it have different properties?

[Domeplex]

Sorry - forgot to say I can't get that rubbing compound in the UK. Will any other rubbing compound do?

[Billfitz]

An area that small can be done by hand. I've got all the tools to machine it but with a spot that small I can finish the job by hand in less time than it would take me to gather all my tools up, perhaps 15 minutes.
The examples I showed are what's available in the US. Read the descriptions on the posted links and look for something similar.

[435MSport6Speed]

Originally Posted by Domeplex

Sorry - forgot to say I can't get that rubbing compound in the UK. Will any other rubbing compound do?

In the UK, try g3 Scratch Remover. Good vids on YouTube.

[JOE YOUNG]

Use these 2, Meguiars 105 Ultra Cut & then 205 Finishing Polish. Then wax and seal.

[cmplaya]

Originally Posted by JOE YOUNG

Use these 2, Meguiars 105 Ultra Cut & then 205 Finishing Polish. Then wax and seal.

what he said using a hand foam applicator pad and try to go perpendicular to the lines.
if you are new to this, i wouldnt mess with sandpaper if i were you...you heard it here second

[Domeplex]

Originally Posted by JOE YOUNG

Use these 2, Meguiars 105 Ultra Cut & then 205 Finishing Polish. Then wax and seal.

I've done some reading on both of these. Seems like a more advanced product? Would i be better with the Meguiars ultimate compound then polish?

Also - rather than hand application. Would anyone recommend using a foam applicator on a household drill?

After a few hours of reading I am worried this is going to become an addiction...

[Billfitz]

Compound alone won't work on anything more than the most superficial scratches. Technically speaking there's no such thing as scratch removal. Sanding is necessary to remove clear coat around the scratches, bringing the depth of the clear coat down to the same depth as the scratches, with subsequent compounding and polishing necessary to remove the sanding marks.
The severity of the scratching defines the sanding grit required. If the scratches go deep you'd start with 600 or 800 grit, but only to prep the surface to re-spray with clear coat, because you'd have to pretty much remove all the clear coat to remove the scratching. 3000 grit won't remove enough clear coat to require a re-spray, unless you go really overboard with it. It should take maybe 30 seconds of vigorous rubbing with 3000 grit for the desired result. If that's not enough you're looking at a re-spray.

[madmonkey]

Originally Posted by Domeplex

I've done some reading on both of these. Seems like a more advanced product? Would i be better with the Meguiars ultimate compound then polish?

Also - rather than hand application. Would anyone recommend using a foam applicator on a household drill?

After a few hours of reading I am worried this is going to become an addiction...

Foam applicator on a drill is not a recommended process. The drill will rotate the pad in the same spot and pattern, which if done incorrectly can lead to marring or other types of clearcoat damage.

Random orbital machines are best for non-professionals and minimize the risks of paint damage. Manual techniques are minimally invasive, but take a bunch of elbow grease and time...

Detailing is like heroin - you will become a junkie!

[cmplaya]

Originally Posted by Domeplex

I've done some reading on both of these. Seems like a more advanced product? Would i be better with the Meguiars ultimate compound then polish?

Also - rather than hand application. Would anyone recommend using a foam applicator on a household drill?

After a few hours of reading I am worried this is going to become an addiction...

i wouldnt use the drill or rotary unless you want to start practicing hologram removal

[cmplaya]

Originally Posted by Domeplex

I've done some reading on both of these. Seems like a more advanced product? Would i be better with the Meguiars ultimate compound then polish?

Also - rather than hand application. Would anyone recommend using a foam applicator on a household drill?

After a few hours of reading I am worried this is going to become an addiction...

i think wet sanding is much more difficult and risky than 105/205

[Billfitz]

A chain saw is much more difficult and risky than a weed whacker too, but you'll never cut down a tree with a weed whacker. Compound alone is ineffective with scratches of the sort the OP has.

[cmplaya]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

A chain saw is much more difficult and risky than a weed whacker too, but you'll never cut down a tree with a weed whacker. Compound alone is ineffective with scratches of the sort the OP has.

perhaps...im just imagining him getting quotes for repainting after sanding too deep

[Billfitz]

The odds of 30 seconds of hand rubbing with 3000 grit going too deep are about 1000:1.

[cmplaya]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

The odds of 30 seconds of hand rubbing with 3000 grit going too deep are about 1000:1.

let's hope he is in the 99.9%

[Soul_Glo]

Originally Posted by Domeplex

Hi all - recently got myself a used F30, had it about a week and i get back to my car yesterday and an animal (looks like bird or cat) has put some scratches in the bonnet.

I usually wouldn't care or attempt to repair it but being my first nice car I want to keep on top of it. Having not looked after cars before, I have no idea what I'm doing. I've read loads of conflicting information on what to use (e.g. t-cut or not?!) and don't really know what to do. ANY help/advice appreciated.

I've also read a lot about turtlewax clearcoat repair kits - anyone had any luck with that?

Pics in link:

View post on imgur.com

View post on imgur.com

[Billfitz]

The video is very good, but I have some suggestions. The water sprayed on the panel where you sand should have a few drops of detergent added as a lubricant. When you sand using only water small particles of clear coat are caught in the sandpaper, and they can cause additional scratching. The detergent prevents that.
I use a circular motion when sanding with 3000, just as with the subsequent steps.
I don't use 5000 grit paper, only 3000. 5000 grit paper has about the same effect as a high cut compound, so you can use one or the other, but you don't need to use both. I use compound, because I have it on hand for paint correction.