03-12-2014, 06:47 AM | #67 | ||
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Maybe that's why they are making gran coupe because they can't figure out how to fix the door seal noise lol. dL |
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03-12-2014, 06:51 AM | #68 |
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Can somebody who got it fixed by dealership via the Teflon Tape method take a picture of how it looks like? I am considering letting the dealership do that if it doesn't look awfully ugly.
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03-12-2014, 06:54 AM | #69 | ||
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03-12-2014, 04:51 PM | #70 |
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+1. I'd be willing to try it myself. I've seen adhesive Teflon tape for sale before.
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03-13-2014, 07:59 AM | #71 |
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A few people with this issue have gone to a dealership and had them "lubricate" the seals. I complained and they tried that and it helped a lot, for a while....then the noise started coming back. Pretty annoying though.
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06-03-2014, 09:54 PM | #73 |
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The teflon tape method lasts a really long time. Some report over 18 months plus with no creaking.
Teflon tape isn't something you get at the hardware store. It's kind of industrial use only tape. Here is where you can get it. http://www.uline.ca/BL_6085/3M-5480-PTFE-Film-Tape There is a US web site as well http://www.uline.com While made by 3M it's not Scotch tape. It's $70 a roll! As for the root cause, that doesn't seem to be known. I've seen some BMWs that even after 10 years+ never had a creak. Then there those less than a few months old and the creak appears. The only sort of pattern, and even then it's a weak link, is the cars that creak tend to be those that get . . . well run. As the chassis stretches it seems the doors creak. It seems that if teflon tape fixes the problem it should be applied at the factory. |
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06-03-2014, 10:19 PM | #74 | |
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Here's one example for $12, there's more on amazon/google. http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...10,43466,32182 |
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06-04-2014, 04:51 AM | #75 |
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I had an issue with my F32 creaking when the passenger door was opened or moved on the hinges.
It was not the door rubber seals creaking. It was to do with the seal for the door mirror mount. Where the door mirror is mounted, it is mounted on a rubber seal. If the seal is not perfectly seated the bottom of the mirror plastic rubs against the plastic door trim. It was only a tiny area rubbing but plastic on plastic creaks. I tried to re-seat the mirror on the seal but the seal was slightly creased from not being correctly mounted. So I used a tiny piece of foam tape just on the area that was rubbing and remounted the mirror. The creak is now gone. |
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06-04-2014, 05:29 AM | #76 |
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The 'official' method on fixing the problem. See attached. This tape is transparent and is . . .even more expensive. Find some BMW buddies and split the cost. $125 a roll. Jeez, made by 3M, priced by BMW
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06-04-2014, 06:26 AM | #77 |
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This creaking developed in my car over the first couple of weeks I had it and it was killing me. I tried using Gummi Pflege after reading some of the posts here, but it had little effect. After seeing mention of the Teflon tape, it seemed to me that anything that would lower the friction between the felt-backed rubber seal and the shadowline trim would help. I applied a paint sealant, Blackfire Wet Diamond, to the bottom edge of the shadowline trim, the creaking stopped completely and I haven't heard it return in several months. If it does come back, it takes about 2 minutes to coat the trim. I'd imagine that other products that would create a similar slick surface would probably work.
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06-04-2014, 08:36 AM | #78 |
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So I tried the gummi thing. After cleaning the seals and the door jambs, I rubbed a good wet coat all over the seals. Well it's worse than ever now! I don't know WTF is going on. I will try a couple more rounds of this treatment but it doesn't appear to work at all. I'm still unsure which of the seals is causing this exactly (there are an awful lot of seals around this door). I treated them all and it just made it worse.
As snj49er said there is also a felt-backed piece of seal that contacts the black glossy trim above the door (is this the "shadowline trim"?). Could be from that? Obviously I didn't treat the felt with gummi since it's not rubber. I will try some sealant on the trim and door jambs to see what happens... |
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06-04-2014, 08:42 AM | #79 | |
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If it's clear tape I'm pretty sure another kind might do as well? Heck I might even try some regular painter's tape as a temp fix to see what happens. But first I'll try the suggestion of cleaning the felt with the 3M adhesive remover, and then sealing the trim as suggested by snj49er.... |
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06-04-2014, 10:05 AM | #80 | |
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I first applied gummi to the area labeled "Mating Surface" in the 2nd picture (not the felt) and I found no joy. The instant that I put a paint sealant on the BOTTOM surface of the shadowline trim, I never heard another creak. Maybe it's a combination of the 2 things, but it appeared to me that, like the Teflon solution, the friction between the rubber and shadowline trim needs to be lowered so that they can easily slide past each other as they flex. |
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06-04-2014, 11:21 AM | #81 |
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So I know this discussion has mainly focused around the creaking from the door seals, but I just wanted to share my experience with another creaking sound in the car. Mine was coming from the rear dome light. Any time I hear the sound, I can reach back and push up on the dome light, and the sound is eliminated. I took my car in for the noise, and at first they tried to add some foam to the light surround, but it actually made it worse. So they ordered me an entire new dome light and installed it last week. It's better, but still not completely gone. Anyone else have the creaking noise coming from the rear dome light?
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06-04-2014, 02:31 PM | #82 | |
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06-04-2014, 03:10 PM | #83 | |
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06-04-2014, 03:29 PM | #84 | |
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IIRC, the window trim on my '84 Audi 5000 was far better from a functional and aesthetic standpoint. I mean really, does someone think that it looks good to have more than an inch of rubber between the glass and body trim? |
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06-04-2014, 03:48 PM | #85 |
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A paint sealant is not the same as wax, but I don't doubt that wax may help to correct the problem...I haven't tried it. After I read the service bulletin that referred to Teflon tape as a solution, it seemed to me that anything that would impart an extremely slick surface to the shadowline trim would be a step in the right direction.
This is the actual product that I used: http://www.detailedimage.com/Blackfi...P205/16-oz-S1/ If wax was all that I had available, I'd give that a shot before spending any money. |
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06-04-2014, 09:47 PM | #86 | |
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06-09-2014, 12:15 PM | #87 | |
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06-09-2014, 03:58 PM | #88 | |
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Drove me crazy for 3 weeks. First thing I did was get the dome light out of the car, disconnect it, then using a glue gun to epoxy the metal clips to the plastic dome light (clear the old glue first). While not affecting all cars, on mine the glue was very poorly applied so I needed to clean it off first. Before putting the dome light back in. Tap the headliner and listen for a rattle. Surprise, surprise, a lose clip. That took 20 minutes but I finally tapped it out. Here you go: http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=941943 Finally, silence, until the door creak a week ago. |
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