[banksta]

All

Now that winter is approaching need some advice on how I should prep the car for the winter months (other than winter rims / tires...)

- 2014 328i sportline xdrive
- Already have the floor mats on
- Car has never been detailed
- No paint protection, etc.
- Car is basically as delivered but have been maintaining it pretty well with weekly hand washes, periodic interior cleaning

Given all the snow / salt expected what should I be doing to make sure that my car / paint stays in good shape during and after the winter months?

What else should I be doing now / ongoing basis? I have never waxed the car (car is a little less than 2 months old).

Thanks as always

[Chris@codemybimmer]

best winter prep is to prep it for storage! lol

for me i just slap on a crap tonne of layers of wax (5 - 6) layers and then i buy a petro can season pass and touchles wash it.

The main areas are underneath your car. thats where salt get battered onto the car the most, if you dont get a season pass just spray the underbody at a coin wash every so often to keep it clean.

[bobblehead]

have some de-icer handy (Rain X makes them) to thaw out the wiper and doors if frozen ... after having experienced this past winter ice storm

washer fluid booster / concentrate to ensure the wiper fluid don't get frozen and the added detergent will clean your windshield better

portable shovel in the trunk, in case you got hung up on the snowbank

bag of sand or gravel would be nice too, to get some traction

[banksta]

Thanks. When should I wax my car? Car is about 2 months old now have not waxed once. How often should I be doing it on a go forward basis?

[JimmersBimmer]

There are a lot of tips and good reading from other F30 owners here: http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=427

[Ali Shiralian]

Originally Posted by banksta

All

Now that winter is approaching need some advice on how I should prep the car for the winter months (other than winter rims / tires...)

- 2014 328i sportline xdrive
- Already have the floor mats on
- Car has never been detailed
- No paint protection, etc.
- Car is basically as delivered but have been maintaining it pretty well with weekly hand washes, periodic interior cleaning

Given all the snow / salt expected what should I be doing to make sure that my car / paint stays in good shape during and after the winter months?

What else should I be doing now / ongoing basis? I have never waxed the car (car is a little less than 2 months old).

Thanks as always

Opticoat it and watch the snow and ice just slide off the car. Also won't have to wax for four years...

[crono06]

Originally Posted by bobblehead

have some de-icer handy (Rain X makes them) to thaw out the wiper and doors if frozen ... after having experienced this past winter ice storm

washer fluid booster / concentrate to ensure the wiper fluid don't get frozen and the added detergent will clean your windshield better

portable shovel in the trunk, in case you got hung up on the snowbank

bag of sand or gravel would be nice too, to get some traction

+1 on the shovel. Also leave some basics in the car:
Blanket
Canned food
Flash light
Maybe some matches/lighter
Small tool kit

I also leave a small container of sand with some cardboard in the trunk. If I ever get stuck (never happened with this car) I'll just toss the cardboard under the tires and drive away.

[Photoman]

With our soft water-based paint (for environmental reasons) it's imperative to protect it properly from the elements.
You really should do the following 5-step process regardless of season.
wash + clay + compound + polish + seal
This will give you a minimum of a year's worth of protection.

[banksta]

Originally Posted by Photoman

With our soft water-based paint (for environmental reasons) it's imperative to protect it properly from the elements.
You really should do the following 5-step process regardless of season.
wash + clay + compound + polish + seal
This will give you a minimum of a year's worth of protection.

Apologies for the noobness...but what is clay + compound + polish + seal? and how often? I wash my car every week (alternate between hand / touchless)

[JimmersBimmer]

Originally Posted by Ali Shiralian

Opticoat it and watch the snow and ice just slide off the car. Also won't have to wax for four years...

I got the opportunity to see Photoman's 2012 F30 at the True North BMW Show and Shine on Sunday. He Opti-coated his car when it was new(ish,) and I can tell you that it still looks great today! (good enough for a trophy, eh Photoman! ;-) .)

I ordered the Opti-Coat 2.0 today.

Optimum, is discontinuing Opti-Coat 2.0 and replacing it with Optimum Gloss-Coating, which they say is a better product. However, they go on to indicate that OGC protects vehicles for 2 years. This makes sense from a business perspective - make a "better" product that needs re-application every two years to increase sales.

I found one web retailer in Canada that still had 2.0 in stock so I snapped it up, but it looks like they still have some in inventory.


Another item to add to your preseason list (yours or others - especially those people reading with rear-wheel-drive cars) is something called a "Tow Truck In a Box." You slide this aluminum runner (which folds up neatly) with traction top and bottom beneath your tire when you are stuck and it provides a grippy surface to get you on your way. Look for it on sale at Crappy Tire. It saved me a couple of times last year with my RWD Lexus POS.

Good Luck!

Jimmer.

[Photoman]

Originally Posted by banksta

Apologies for the noobness...but what is clay + compound + polish + seal? and how often? I wash my car every week (alternate between hand / touchless)

If your car is a daily driver all year round then perform the above twice a year... once in the spring and again before winter. Otherwise once a year will suffice. To get that crazy deep rich lustre though the more layers of polish/sealant is better.


Clay http://www.eshine.ca/DetailClay.htm

Compound http://www.eshine.ca/Swirls.htm

Polish
Products designed to improve surface gloss by cleaning surface contaminants, oxidization, and compound haze. They may or may not contain abrasives, but they are extremely mild compared to compounds. Many modern polishes contain cleaners which aid in surface cleaning while the abrasives or fillers aid in surface gloss. Polishes prepare your paint for a wax or sealent. They strip the paint, and improve the paint, but they do not protect the paint. Another step is reqired to protect your paint from UV rays, and other environmental hazards... sealing.

Sealant/Wax
Sealants (also called synthetic waxes) are man made protective polymer barriers that are applied over a freshly polished surface. Sealants offer many advantages over organic waxes, such as ease of application, 6+ months of protection, UV protection, and an outstanding shine. Sealants can be layered multiple times, which will create an even deeper shine. They form a protective barrier which resists acid rain, bug stains, bird bombs and will last through many many washes. Although sealants lack in depth over organic waxes such as carnauba waxes, they can easily be topped with an organic wax to produce both a bright and deep finish.

Waxes are commonly blends of brazilian carnauba wax. They also protect your paint against environmental factors, though for a shorter time. They are used becasue of their deep wet shine, and ease of application. Nothing matches the warmth of nature’s beauty! The downside to natural waxes are their very short lived durability. They typically last only a couple months at best and even less when washed. Carnauba waxes make great topper for synthetic sealants.

Check out some pics of my car halfway down page 6 where you can see how it will shine!
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...=703355&page=6

[banksta]

Is the opticoat some kind of film?or is it a wax?

[banksta]

Originally Posted by Photoman

If your car is a daily driver all year round then perform the above twice a year... once in the spring and again before winter. Otherwise once a year will suffice. To get that crazy deep rich lustre though the more layers of polish/sealant is better.


Clay http://www.eshine.ca/DetailClay.htm

Compound http://www.eshine.ca/Swirls.htm

Polish
Products designed to improve surface gloss by cleaning surface contaminants, oxidization, and compound haze. They may or may not contain abrasives, but they are extremely mild compared to compounds. Many modern polishes contain cleaners which aid in surface cleaning while the abrasives or fillers aid in surface gloss. Polishes prepare your paint for a wax or sealent. They strip the paint, and improve the paint, but they do not protect the paint. Another step is reqired to protect your paint from UV rays, and other environmental hazards... sealing.

Sealant/Wax
Sealants (also called synthetic waxes) are man made protective polymer barriers that are applied over a freshly polished surface. Sealants offer many advantages over organic waxes, such as ease of application, 6+ months of protection, UV protection, and an outstanding shine. Sealants can be layered multiple times, which will create an even deeper shine. They form a protective barrier which resists acid rain, bug stains, bird bombs and will last through many many washes. Although sealants lack in depth over organic waxes such as carnauba waxes, they can easily be topped with an organic wax to produce both a bright and deep finish.

Waxes are commonly blends of brazilian carnauba wax. They also protect your paint against environmental factors, though for a shorter time. They are used becasue of their deep wet shine, and ease of application. Nothing matches the warmth of nature’s beauty! The downside to natural waxes are their very short lived durability. They typically last only a couple months at best and even less when washed. Carnauba waxes make great topper for synthetic sealants.

Check out some pics of my car halfway down page 6 where you can see how it will shine!
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...=703355&page=6

Photoman - according to Jimmer you have the opti-coat...is this in addition to the clay / compound / polish / wax or are we talking about the same thing here

[JimmersBimmer]

Originally Posted by banksta

Is the opticoat some kind of film?or is it a wax?

"Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 is the most advanced polymer system that adds a permanent layer of clear coat over the automotive finishes.

Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 provides better scratch and mar resistance, better UV resistance, better chemical etch resistance, and has better release properties than factory clears. Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 therefore keeps your car clean longer and continues to bead water and sheds dirt for years.

Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 can be used to protect the following surfaces:

• Painted Surfaces
• headlights
• wheels
• plastic trim
• bumpers
• aluminum & chrome surfaces


Since Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 forms a permanent film, any paint imperfections must be removed with Optimum Polish II or Optimum Finish before application. Also all waxes and oils must be removed from the surfaces for proper bonding.

Directions:

1 Polish paint with Optimum Polish II or Optimum Finish to remove any defects.
2 Clean surface with 15% IPA solution to remove all polishing oils, waxes, and silicones.
3 Prime the applicator by making an X pattern across the pad. Only a few drops will be needed for each subsequent panel.
4 Wipe Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 onto a single panel at a time in a thin layer using two directions, in a circular or front to back direction.
5 Within 5 minutes, inspect the panel with adequate lighting looking for any thick areas that have not flashed away to clear.
6 Use foam applicator or paint safe microfiber to even out any areas where you see streaks. This step is key, as any spots not leveled will have to be polished if allowed to cure. Panels will feel a bit tacky and will be self-leveling during cure time, so avoid any unnecessary touching, wiping, or contact to produce the best results.
7 Repeat steps 1-6 for each panel where application is desired.

Not recommended for glass."

[Photoman]

Originally Posted by banksta

Photoman - according to Jimmer you have the opti-coat...is this in addition to the clay / compound / polish / wax or are we talking about the same thing here

Originally Posted by JimmersBimmer

"Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 is the most advanced polymer system that adds a permanent layer of clear coat over the automotive finishes..."

What he said
Another choice is CQuartz... but I believe this is more expensive than Opti-Coat.

[banksta]

I must be an idiot...

The opticoat is on top of the any wax, etc.? Instruction says to remove any oils, waxes, etc.

I guess my question would be:

1) Opticoat only? How often do you need to re-coat?
2) Opticoat AND wax? and which one on top of the other? How often do you need to re-coat?
3) Does it have the same shiny effect as wax when you use opticoat only?

Thanks...and appreciate the patience here..

[Ali Shiralian]

Originally Posted by banksta

I must be an idiot...

The opticoat is on top of the any wax, etc.? Instruction says to remove any oils, waxes, etc.

I guess my question would be:

1) Opticoat only? How often do you need to re-coat?
2) Opticoat AND wax? and which one on top of the other? How often do you need to re-coat?
3) Does it have the same shiny effect as wax when you use opticoat only?

Thanks...and appreciate the patience here..

You are not an idiot.
The Opti Coat is NOT on top of any wax. As a matter of fact the car needs to be clay bar cleaned before Opti coat application.
1) yes Opti coat only. Last for up to four years (depending on the climate, for us in the snow belt , I assume every three years.
2) you don't need to wax once the Opti coat has been applied. Just regular hand wash is sufficient.
3) IMHO, it is better than wax..mine still shiny after five months.

Cheers...

[Ali Shiralian]

Originally Posted by JimmersBimmer

I got the opportunity to see Photoman's 2012 F30 at the True North BMW Show and Shine on Sunday. He Opti-coated his car when it was new(ish,) and I can tell you that it still looks great today! (good enough for a trophy, eh Photoman! ;-) .)

I ordered the Opti-Coat 2.0 today.

Optimum, is discontinuing Opti-Coat 2.0 and replacing it with Optimum Gloss-Coating, which they say is a better product. However, they go on to indicate that OGC protects vehicles for 2 years. This makes sense from a business perspective - make a "better" product that needs re-application every two years to increase sales.

I found one web retailer in Canada that still had 2.0 in stock so I snapped it up, but it looks like they still have some in inventory.


Another item to add to your preseason list (yours or others - especially those people reading with rear-wheel-drive cars) is something called a "Tow Truck In a Box." You slide this aluminum runner (which folds up neatly) with traction top and bottom beneath your tire when you are stuck and it provides a grippy surface to get you on your way. Look for it on sale at Crappy Tire. It saved me a couple of times last year with my RWD Lexus POS.

Good Luck!

Jimmer.

Thanks Jimmer, great advice, I'll look for it at crappy...

[JimmersBimmer]

Originally Posted by banksta

The opticoat is on top of the any wax, etc.? Instruction says to remove any oils, waxes, etc.

Thanks...and appreciate the patience here..

CQuartz and Opti-Coat work the same way. They are nano-sealants. I attached an image of how they work.

Here is my plan when the Opti-Coat arrives in the mail. It can be broken down into three steps as follows:

Prepping the car for nano-sealant:
If you are going the nano-sealant method, you would apply it directly to the clear-coat paint surface. In a perfect world, you would do this on the day of delivery and the paint would be perfect...but it never is perfect, even from the factory.

You have to "correct" the paint. Correction is done with a compound and/or polish to get the 'perfect' finish you want - as smooth and shiny as possible.

The nano-sealant is a (semi-) permanent bond, so any imperfections in the paint are simply covered. Without the "correction" step above to remove swirls, scratches, pits etc., the coating would make these imperfections both permanent and visible.

So in my case, I have a new 2015 F30 (bought late August) that I have hand washed a few times and I have applied a coat of wax.

When I prepare my car for the Opti-Coat (or better if I get a detailer to prepare it,) it will be washed and dried, cleaned with a claybar to remove any contaminants(waxes, oils, polishes, bugs, bird shit etc.), then imperfections such as the odd swirl and/or scratch will be removed via compound (deep imperfections) and/or polish (surface imperfections.) Once I have the clear coat paint surface as clean and smooth as I can make it (shiney, reflective and swirl-free,) I will clean off any excess polish/compound as I don't want THAT beneath the nano-coat. Then proceed to Opti-Coat it.

Regular Maintenance:
Once Opti-Coated, as regular maintenance, I will follow the same steps to prepare the paint (this time down to the nano-coat layer): wash and dry, clay, rinse, dry, polish out any imperfections in the nano-sealant, and then apply a wax to further protect the nano-coating and add more shine. I might do this every couple of months.

Weekly Maintenance:
On a weekly basis, between waxes(aforementioned "regular maintenance"), I am planning to hand wash or water-less wash (Optimum No Rinse, for example, but there are other good water-less washes out there) or if time-pressed, use a touch-less automatic car wash to wash the car.

That's the plan so far. I hope this helps.

Please, if I missed anything, chime in. I am learning as I go as well.

Good luck.

J.

[Ali Shiralian]

Originally Posted by JimmersBimmer

CQuartz and Opti-Coat work the same way. They are nano-sealants. I attached an image of how they work.

Here is my plan when the Opti-Coat arrives in the mail. It can be broken down into three steps as follows:

Prepping the car for nano-sealant:
If you are going the nano-sealant method, you would apply it directly to the clear-coat paint surface. In a perfect world, you would do this on the day of delivery and the paint would be perfect...but it never is perfect, even from the factory.

You have to "correct" the paint. Correction is done with a compound and/or polish to get the 'perfect' finish you want - as smooth and shiny as possible.

The nano-sealant is a (semi-) permanent bond, so any imperfections in the paint are simply covered. Without the "correction" step above to remove swirls, scratches, pits etc., the coating would make these imperfections both permanent and visible.

So in my case, I have a new 2015 F30 (bought late August) that I have hand washed a few times and I have applied a coat of wax.

When I prepare my car for the Opti-Coat (or better if I get a detailer to prepare it,) it will be washed and dried, cleaned with a claybar to remove any contaminants(waxes, oils, polishes, bugs, bird shit etc.), then imperfections such as the odd swirl and/or scratch will be removed via compound (deep imperfections) and/or polish (surface imperfections.) Once I have the clear coat paint surface as clean and smooth as I can make it (shiney, reflective and swirl-free,) I will clean off any excess polish/compound as I don't want THAT beneath the nano-coat. Then proceed to Opti-Coat it.

Regular Maintenance:
Once Opti-Coated, as regular maintenance, I will follow the same steps to prepare the paint (this time down to the nano-coat layer): wash and dry, clay, rinse, dry, polish out any imperfections in the nano-sealant, and then apply a wax to further protect the nano-coating and add more shine. I might do this every couple of months.

Weekly Maintenance:
On a weekly basis, between waxes(aforementioned "regular maintenance"), I am planning to hand wash or water-less wash (Optimum No Rinse, for example, but there are other good water-less washes out there) or if time-pressed, use a touch-less automatic car wash to wash the car.

That's the plan so far. I hope this helps.

Please, if I missed anything, chime in. I am learning as I go as well.

Good luck.

J.

Hey Jimmer, your method is spot on as far as I can see. One more thing thst I did after opicoating it, I used permanon to give it even more of a shine. Permanon is the latest compound from Germany that actually adheres to Opticoat. I was very pleased with this compound, the application is very easy as you only mix 5 mil of permanon to I litre of distilled water and spray it all over the surface and beneath the grill. I used an auto sprayer and seemed to stick to the surface fine. Again I must say permanon is NOT necessary, I'm just a fanatic about detailing

[banksta]

Originally Posted by Ali Shiralian

You are not an idiot.
The Opti Coat is NOT on top of any wax. As a matter of fact the car needs to be clay bar cleaned before Opti coat application.
1) yes Opti coat only. Last for up to four years (depending on the climate, for us in the snow belt , I assume every three years.
2) you don't need to wax once the Opti coat has been applied. Just regular hand wash is sufficient.
3) IMHO, it is better than wax..mine still shiny after five months.

Cheers...

Ali, thanks for the summary. Do you know any good detailers out there that would prepare my car / apply the coat in the gta?

[banksta]

Originally Posted by JimmersBimmer

CQuartz and Opti-Coat work the same way. They are nano-sealants. I attached an image of how they work.

Here is my plan when the Opti-Coat arrives in the mail. It can be broken down into three steps as follows:

Prepping the car for nano-sealant:
If you are going the nano-sealant method, you would apply it directly to the clear-coat paint surface. In a perfect world, you would do this on the day of delivery and the paint would be perfect...but it never is perfect, even from the factory.

You have to "correct" the paint. Correction is done with a compound and/or polish to get the 'perfect' finish you want - as smooth and shiny as possible.

The nano-sealant is a (semi-) permanent bond, so any imperfections in the paint are simply covered. Without the "correction" step above to remove swirls, scratches, pits etc., the coating would make these imperfections both permanent and visible.

So in my case, I have a new 2015 F30 (bought late August) that I have hand washed a few times and I have applied a coat of wax.

When I prepare my car for the Opti-Coat (or better if I get a detailer to prepare it,) it will be washed and dried, cleaned with a claybar to remove any contaminants(waxes, oils, polishes, bugs, bird shit etc.), then imperfections such as the odd swirl and/or scratch will be removed via compound (deep imperfections) and/or polish (surface imperfections.) Once I have the clear coat paint surface as clean and smooth as I can make it (shiney, reflective and swirl-free,) I will clean off any excess polish/compound as I don't want THAT beneath the nano-coat. Then proceed to Opti-Coat it.

Regular Maintenance:
Once Opti-Coated, as regular maintenance, I will follow the same steps to prepare the paint (this time down to the nano-coat layer): wash and dry, clay, rinse, dry, polish out any imperfections in the nano-sealant, and then apply a wax to further protect the nano-coating and add more shine. I might do this every couple of months.

Weekly Maintenance:
On a weekly basis, between waxes(aforementioned "regular maintenance"), I am planning to hand wash or water-less wash (Optimum No Rinse, for example, but there are other good water-less washes out there) or if time-pressed, use a touch-less automatic car wash to wash the car.

That's the plan so far. I hope this helps.

Please, if I missed anything, chime in. I am learning as I go as well.

Good luck.

J.

Jimmers for regular maintenance, do you mean you would do the same thing you did to prep the car for the initial opti coat to remove any imperfections that would then be on the opti coat (as opposed to the paint if you didn't have the coat on), then apply a wax on top of the opti coat to protect it? Think I am finally starting to get this..