[JimmyDee]

So, a couple weeks ago, I traded-in my Audi SQ5 for a new 440i Gran Coupe.

It's a magnificent vehicle.
It's not the fastest car I've ever driven (although it's ridiculously fast). It's not the most expensive vehicle I've ever driven.
But, I would argue that it might be the 'best driving' vehicle I've ever been behind the wheel of.


I started ripping it apart, within a few days of ownership. Most of the equipment was used, from my previous build in the Audi.

The intent, as with all my builds, was:
1. Sound Quality.
2. Stealth Build - using factory locations.
3. Don't lose any trunk space. This is a daily driver, and I have 2 kids.

Unfortunately, as with all of my projects, I got busy with the build, and didn't take very many pictures.

I used Sinfoni Tempo 10 tweeters in the front doors. Had to modify the inside bracket to mount the tweeters.


The front doors have Dynaudio Esotar 430 drivers in them. Considered to be the best 4.5" driver money can buy.
The Esotars are amazing. Absolutely accurate and detailed. Way beyond anything I've ever heard before.
Had to build custom speaker brackets out of HDPE plastic, and do full sound deadening in all 4 doors, as well.


Didn't take any pictures of the 8" underseat woofers, but they were a drop-in replacement for the stock speakers.
I used Jehnert XE200's, under the advice of Musicar N.W.
Huge shoutout to Musicar N.W. They have a lot of experience with BMW builds, and I'd recommend them 100%.

As above, I didn't take any pictures of the rear doors, but they have Audiofrog GB10 tweeters and GB40 drivers.
These are a very detailed set of speakers, and I would absolutely recommend them as the 'go to' upgrade set for BMW's.
Obviously, they aren't as nice as the Esotars... but the Esotars are also $1200.00 a set!

I used a mObridge DA3, to tap into the car's fiber optic system. I just use it as pass-through into my Helix DSP-Pro II.
The Helix DSP is the real star of the show. It controls all 10 active speakers, except the sub.
Because the Helix only has 10 channels, I used one of the DSP channels on the mObridge to control the sub. Works perfectly.

I built a 2 tier amp rack, and mounted both the mObridge and the Helix under the amplifiers.
The USB cable for the DSP tuning is coiled-up on the right hand side of the amps.

I used a pair of MMATS HiFi-6150 amps for this build.
The first amp runs the active 3-way front stage.
The second amp runs the active 2-way rear doors, and then Channels 5&6 are bridged to run the sub.


The sub is an Audiofrog GB10, running at 4ohm.
I was challenged to find a good (stealth) location for it... and voila, look at this cavernous space at the rear of the trunk!


Again, didn't take any pictures of the build, but I made a fiberglass mold of the stock piece that fits in there, then used that to build a stealth sub enclosure.
3 layers of fiberglass mounted onto a 3/4" MDF front, and then carpeted.


Here's the trunk, with the cargo box in it. I didn't lose an inch of luggage space.



Took about 30 hours total to do the build, then another 4 hours to tune it.
Overall, I'm very pleased with how it turned-out.

I'm always impressed with how the Helix DSP can take a good sounding system, and make it a phenominal sounding system.
As mentioned above; it's the star of the show.

2nd place goes to the Esotar 430 drivers. They are simply amazing!
Absolute perfect sound reproduction from 200Hz to 4500Hz.

3rd Place goes to the MMATS amplifiers...
I don't think I'll ever go back to Class A/B again, after using these amps. They are that good.

[Wibbles]

this is stunning work!

Does the equalizer on the headunit control anything or is it all taken care of with the DSP?

Sorry for my ignorance in these matters.

[IllLojik]

Beautiful work my friend.

[BEM-S4]

Nice job! The amps - where exactly are they mounted? Looking at the photo with the fuse box top left, battery (eventual home of enclosure) on the right did you remove that center carpet section with the empty storage area? Does that section fit back in over amps so when you lift that false floor section it's amps and no center storage section?

I'm doing an F31 install this weekend my enclosure goes on the opposite side of yours into the dead space for the first aid kit. Trying to decide where to mount the amp.

[JimmyDee]

Originally Posted by wibbles

this is stunning work!

Does the equalizer on the headunit control anything or is it all taken care of with the DSP?

Sorry for my ignorance in these matters.

The EQ on the headunit does nothing... it is set flat.
The DSP does all the Equalizing.

[JimmyDee]

Originally Posted by BEM-S4

Nice job! The amps - where exactly are they mounted? Looking at the photo with the fuse box top left, battery (eventual home of enclosure) on the right did you remove that center carpet section with the empty storage area? Does that section fit back in over amps so when you lift that false floor section it's amps and no center storage section?

I'm doing an F31 install this weekend my enclosure goes on the opposite side of yours into the dead space for the first aid kit. Trying to decide where to mount the amp.

Yes, I removed the carpet in that center storage area (to gain a bit more room). That's where the amps, DSP, and mObridge are mounted.

The carpet in that enclosure area is completely removed. I didn't put it back. The amps and stuff take-up that entire enclosure area in the center of the trunk.

This picture was taken, prior to removing the carpet, and mounting the amp rack in that enclosure area:

[tsm007]

I was looking for a clean and tasteful setup like this. Definitely gives me an idea on setting up my own sound system. You should give us an update on how it's working.

[JimmyDee]

So far, so good... system sounds fantastic.

I am actually going to replace the front Scan-Speak drivers with a set of Dynaudio Esotar 430's (absolute best of the best - but wildly expensive too).

When I get those installed, I'll do an update.

[cfm56d7b]

What a project ...

If audio retrofits had Oscars of their own, you would be in the running for the top prize - and win it.

I have upgraded HK audio and like it. Since I am not an audiophile, it would be difficult for me to justify the same audio upgrade.

How much better is your current system? Appreciate the insights.

[JimmyDee]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

What a project ... How much better is your current system? Appreciate the insights.

Night and Day... like, not even close in comparison.

I've been doing this to every car I've ever owned, for the past 20 years.
The past 10 years is where I really started using high-end audio equipment, and learning how to do proper DSP tuning.

[JimmyDee]

Made a few significant changes to the system, over the past month...

Built new speaker rings, out of HDPE plastic (they won't absorb water like MDF).

Removed the Scan-Speak speakers from the doors, and replaced them with:

Front - Dynaudio Esotar 430
At $1200.00 US a pair, they are wildly expensive... but they are the finest 4" mirange money can buy.
Incredible sound and sonic range. Worth every penny (to me).


Rear - Audiofrog GB40 (4" midrange) and Audiofrog GB10 (tweeter).
The Audiofrogs are a super 'punchy' set. Amazing low-end from a small driver.
Not as detailed as the Esotar, but they are able to play down to 200Hz, at any volume, without breaking a sweat.
Pictures to follow...

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by JimmyDee

Made a few significant changes to the system, over the past month...

Built new speaker rings, out of HDPE plastic (they won't absorb water like MDF).

Removed the Scan-Speak speakers from the doors, and replaced them with:

Front - Dynaudio Esotar 430
At $1200.00 US a pair, they are wildly expensive... but they are the finest 4" mirange money can buy.
Incredible sound and sonic range. Worth every penny (to me).


Rear - Audiofrog GB40 (4" midrange) and Audiofrog GB10 (tweeter).
The Audiofrogs are a super 'punchy' set. Amazing low-end from a small driver.
Not as detailed as the Esotar, but they are able to play down to 200Hz, at any volume, without breaking a sweat.
Pictures to follow...

Why not match Esotar in Front and rear?

Seems counterproductive to place an inferior speaker in a car to distort what you have put in the front.

[JimmyDee]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

Why not match Esotar in Front and rear?

Seems counterproductive to place an inferior speaker in a car to distort what you have put in the front.

I'm not sure I understand what you're saying... the Audiofrogs are far from an inferior speaker.
They are very much a high-end speaker, and at no point, ever, do they distort... or distort the sound of the front speakers.
They are simply being used for a different purpose.

The intent is to build a precise sound stage for the front seats. This is why I put the Esotars in combination with Sinfoni tweeters up front.

The rear speakers are not the source for the main audio stage, but rather, they are meant to be the source for added ambiance (concert hall effect).
They don't play at the same volume level as the front speakers, they are crossed-over at a lower frequency, and they are heavily time delayed.

Totally different intention and goal between the front stage, and rear fill.

[Jalisco]

Awesome build! It makes me want to use build a system again.

[cfm56d7b]

Originally Posted by JimmyDee

Night and Day... like, not even close in comparison.

I've been doing this to every car I've ever owned, for the past 20 years.
The past 10 years is where I really started using high-end audio equipment, and learning how to do proper DSP tuning.

This is literally rocket science for me. Great work.

[twodoor]

Hi, first of all congrats for all the effort you've put in, I'm sure the real result is stunning.
I have a question regarding the sound insulation - in comparison to the stock sound, only vibration-wise, have you noticed major improvement only by sticking the alubutyl mat, which I assume is something like this -link on amazon ?

I've seen other cars having a more advanced insulation job with multiple layers and I'm curious if it's worth it, or if I should just buy the alubutyl mat and slap it in my F30 doors, because I got tons of vibration and rattling sounds...

This is the post I'm mentioning: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...31&postcount=3
and the full thread: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1010042

[JimmyDee]

Originally Posted by twodoor

Hi, first of all congrats for all the effort you've put in, I'm sure the real result is stunning.
I have a question regarding the sound insulation - in comparison to the stock sound, only vibration-wise, have you noticed major improvement only by sticking the alubutyl mat, which I assume is something like this -link on amazon ?[/url]

From a vibration perspective; I can't really comment. My vehicle was only a week old (brand new), when I started tearing it apart. It never had any rattles or vibration issues that I noticed.

The intent of adding butyl sound mat was to dampen the vibration caused by the speaker. It also helps with low frequency resonance. My goal was purely from a sound quality perspective, not with the intent of taming noise and rattles.

With that said; If you are having noise issues in your vehicle, then adding butyl mat won't always get rid of them, but it can certainly help. It will mainly help to dampen outside road noise, but it isn't intended to tame any rattles. Creaks and rattles are caused by vibration and movement in the door skin. I suppose laying down a layer of butyl mat would fix all the wiring harnesses in place (which is often where noises come from). The other thing you'll want to do, is get a roll of felt tape, and apply it to the seams of the door skin, and any area where the skin comes in contact with the steel door frame. That's how you get rid of noises.

Here's the butyl dampener I used:
https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadeni...ds=noico&psc=1

Here's a good felt tape:
https://www.amazon.com/Anti-Squeak-R..._&dpSrc=detail

[enjoythemusic]

Originally Posted by JimmyDee

Made a few significant changes to the system, over the past month...

Question... was there room on the door and/or rear panels to cut out for 5.5" or, perhaps better still, 6.5" drivers? Great job!

[JimmyDee]

Originally Posted by enjoythemusic

Question... was there room on the door and/or rear panels to cut out for 5.5" or, perhaps better still, 6.5" drivers? Great job!

I had originally explored this, because I also have a set of Esotar 650 drivers (6.5") that I would have liked to mount in the door.

The bottom line is; No, it can't be (practically) done. The door cutout is for a 4" driver.
I suppose if a guy was really dedicated to doing custom cutting and fabrication, then anything is possible.
I suspect if you cut the hole in the steel door frame, you could squeeze a 5.25" in there, but it would need to be a shallow driver.
A 6.5" just isn't going to happen... without major modification.

The other issue is; esthetics.
The door skin is designed to house a 4" driver grille, and that's what visually looks best there.
Putting a larger driver in that position would definitely take away from the design flow of the door skin.
It might even look; just plain goofy.

[IK6SPEED]

I’m sure if it made cosmetic sense, Musicar NW would be using the larger sizes of the Esotar in the door.

[JimmyDee]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

I’m sure if it made cosmetic sense, Musicar NW would be using the larger sizes of the Esotar in the door.

Funny enough... I was just talking to Musicar about this, last week.
They pretty-much echoed what I said in my above post.

With money and a lot of fabrication, anything is possible.
But esthetically, it'd probably look ass...

[enjoythemusic]

Originally Posted by JimmyDee

Funny enough... I was just talking to Musicar about this, last week.
They pretty-much echoed what I said in my above post.

With money and a lot of fabrication, anything is possible.
But esthetically, it'd probably look ass...

You truly did a GREAT job in the upgrade! On front doors bet you're right on size limitations as when doing Focal / Dynamat upgrade on the fronts it looked really tight (even had to fab up spacers so the magnet clears the windows). Rear sides though might have been 'game' for up-size tho. Haven't tackled that job yet so was curious what space we may have to work with there... tho have a 435i so the config is diff of course.

You truly did awesome!

FYI i was an IASCA SQ judge and car audio installer in the 'heydays' of the 1980s/1990s. Great install work on your car.