[mike@x-ph.com]

There has been numerous threads lately about intercoolers. From the usual which one is the best FMIC on the market to Ebay brands claiming to offer a high quality solution for a reasonable price.

I will be discussing the most important factors about intercoolers and why some FMIC will offer better cooling than others

Intercoolers and why replacement is recommended?

Turbochargers compress engine intake air which creates heat. The Intercooler then cools down the charged air. For remapped cars, temperatures up to 200°C after turbocharger can occur. Factory intercoolers are unable to sufficiently handle such high temperatures. This causes high intake temperatures and the oxygen content of the charged air drops significantly. As a direct consequence, the performance decreases, the thermal load on the cylinder head and valves increases. Worst case this can cause severe engine damage.

The colder the intake air, the higher the efficiency of the turbo-charged engine and less risk of engine damage. This can be achieved with an optimized intercooler system installed between the turbocharger and engine.

Construction of an intercooler?

Intercoolers can be categorized by two types of the core construction.

The BAR & PLATE core construction is relatively heavy so there is certain temperature inertia. Meaning under load the core takes longer to heat, but also longer to cool down once the load is removed. This is fine for on the road, but for use on the race track this core construction is not particularly suitable as it arrives at a constant cooling performance at varying loads in the full load range. Also weight reduction is an important consideration for track use.

The fine structure of the TUBE & FIN core makes them relatively light and exchange heat much faster. This type of core construction takes temperatures relatively quickly, but also very quickly transfers this away again. For a constant cooling performance in a dynamic throttle situation this is an indispensable feature. Tube fin intercoolers are suitable for street use as well as at the race track.

The OUTSIDE CORE is responsible for heat exchange with the running wind. The higher the density of the external core (fins), the better the cooling performance of an intercooler. But you also have to look which parts are behind the intercooler. Too much fin density means all parts behind the intercooler will be blocked. The worst case would be, you’ve solved the problem of high intake air temperatures, but the engine coolant temperature climbs. High performance manufacturers note all these factors and develop the most suitable structure of outside core design.

Low Density Core // // // High Density Core


Also notice the staggered offset fins for a larger contact area on the intercooler on the right

The INSIDE CORE is responsible for heat exchange with the hot charged air and also need to handle the additional air flow which is running through the intake system. Care needs to be taken when deciding the internal fin density. A high internal fin density gives great cooling performance but with a high pressure drop. The pressure drop of the cooling system should not be adversely affected by an aftermarket intercooler. Less pressure drop reduces the mechanical load on the turbocharger (stability & life time for the turbo). High performance intercooler manufacturers find the best balance between high cooling performance, reduced pressure drop and design their intercooler cores specifically for each vehicle.

The right ENTANK DESIGN is another key consideration when you are looking for the best intercooler for your car. It is easy to see the difference between a good and a bad aftermarket intercooler.

There are different approaches, some manufacturers use sheet metal end tanks and others use cast aluminium end tanks. At flow velocities of around 100 m/s it makes no sense to let the air flow straight in to a wall. This causes unwanted turbulence inside the end tank and higher pressure drop. Furthermore, uniform filling of the intercooler is critical for optimum performance. To aid this, some manufacturers add internal air guides.



Size & Fitment

The size of an intercooler is not always proof of better cooling. There is an old adage which says "Power is nothing without control". This can be applied to bigger intercoolers. If you construct a bigger intercooler without working with internal air guide systems and flow optimized end tanks, the air will not flow through the whole system and choosing a bigger intercooler makes no sense because the intercooler is not being used effectively.

Although the size of the intercooler is changing, the installation should not require mutilation of the vehicle. To avoid nasty surprises you should always look at the installation instructions (if available). Additionally you can seek reviews from neutral and professional sources. I know sometimes it is quite difficult to recognize those sources.

Here is my advice on how to pick the right intercooler for you

Don’t get an intercooler because someone on the forum says it’s cheap, it fits and they feel it is doing a great job. Ask for logs.

Check if the manufacturer invests time and money in development/engineering, to get the latest technology in your intercooler. The needs of the cars and tuning them changes all the time.

Don’t get an intercooler just because people say it is the best. Get an intercooler because professional tuners say it the best. The best intercooler on a fully bolt on car with upgraded turbo might not be the best intercooler for a stock car with stage 1 tune.

Start by thinking ahead in terms of modifications that you will eventually add on your car. If you plan on going fully bolt on in 1-2 years, get an intercooler that suits the fully bolt on application.

Bigger is not always better. If you do not plan on getting stage 2 turbo, don’t get an intercooler built for stage 2 applications. You want an intercooler that provides the best cooling with the minimum pressure drop.

If the right intercooler is over your budget, wait until you have enough funds or try saving on other mods so you can get the right intercooler.

Ebay Notes

Some justify getting an ebay intercooler for the following reasons:

• Daily driver, No track use ever
• conservative tune
• Looking for a cheap solution that works, even if it is not the best one available

As mentioned above, getting a bigger intercooler does not always mean you are getting better performance. You might get better IAT than stock, but your pressure drop will be higher and so the couple hundred dollars you spent on a cheap solution did not help.

If you are not going to pick a brand that takes into consideration everything mentioned above, you are better off keeping your stock intercooler.

As i said earlier, dont get the biggest most expensive FMIC if your car is a daily driver with stage 1 tune. Talk to vendors / tuners, tell them your HP goals and mods + your budget. They will recommend an FMIC that suits your needs.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Wagner Intercooler W/ Evolution Racewerks Charge Pipe (customer photo)

[ceedawg]

Excellent post and all true. That why I also stick to using Garrett and or ETS cores! IAt's are important to know! With intercoolers you get what you pay for and that's a fact. Advice stay away from ebay intercoolers.

Good link: Dave Buschur intercooler brands comparison test(IATs PSI loss) and lengthy EBAY AMS VSRP all included

http://highboostforum.com/forum/show...-info-mixed-in

[ceedawg]

I think Wagner,Active Autowerks, Dinan,ETS make good ones ! My top pics but who am I

[BEM-S4]

Originally Posted by ceedawg

I think Wagner,Active Autowerks, Dinan,ETS make good ones ! My top pics but who am I

I have Active Autowerkes - installed last week - and very happy with it. Didn't have many options as I bought for my convertible - and the install is a BITCH - but the intercooler is great and excellent value.

Mike and Marc were good to work with too.

[KC Bimmer]

Nice post! I went ER FMIC which fit great with the ER CP and ER TIC (all andonized black). I’ve been satisfied but other good options out there. Love Wagner too!

[torkles]

the max i'm planning on going is jb4 running map 2 with a catted downpipe - probably fabspeed. i'm in northern VA and have to deal with emissions inspections, so having a CEL and no cat is not going to work for me. it's a daily driver looking for more power, i don't track the car or drag race it.

am i wrong to think the active autowerke or the VRSF HD FMIC are sufficient for my needs?

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by torkles

the max i'm planning on going is jb4 running map 2 with a catted downpipe - probably fabspeed. i'm in northern VA and have to deal with emissions inspections, so having a CEL and no cat is not going to work for me. it's a daily driver looking for more power, i don't track the car or drag race it.

am i wrong to think the active autowerke or the VRSF HD FMIC are sufficient for my needs?

Both these intercooler will be a good choice for your car

[torkles]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

Both these intercooler will be a good choice for your car

thanks! and i assume the matching CP is the way to go. i don't hear about too many people running the active autowerke CP, or the vrsf. everyone seems to rave about the ER pipe - what's the real benefit of that pipe over the other two?

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by torkles

thanks! and i assume the matching CP is the way to go. i don't hear about too many people running the active autowerke CP, or the vrsf. everyone seems to rave about the ER pipe - what's the real benefit of that pipe over the other two?

Active & VRSF are the 2 most popular CP options for us.

The CP do not have to match but if you get VRSF HD or 7.5" intercooler dont get ER charge pipe.

[torkles]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

Active & VRSF are the 2 most popular CP options for us.

The CP do not have to match but if you get VRSF HD or 7.5" intercooler dont get ER charge pipe.

Awesome. Thanks a lot for your advice!

[valve float]

hasn't this has been beaten to death...?...the $200 ebay intercooler shares the same core as the cheap offerings from all the vendors and will suffice for at least 80% of drivers and applications...track rats, pull on boyracerz, insecure showboats and those south of 35 degree latitude may benefit from something different...lol

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by torkles

Awesome. Thanks a lot for your advice!

My pleasure

[philgraham7]

Just received my vrsf charge pipe now waiting for the intercooler to ship... times ticking I’m excited!!!!

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by philgraham7

Just received my vrsf charge pipe now waiting for the intercooler to ship... times ticking I’m excited!!!!

[ceedawg]

Do you guys have logs on the VRSF FMIC? IAt's ,PSI loss?

[FastF30]

Originally Posted by valve float

hasn't this has been beaten to death...?...the $200 ebay intercooler shares the same core as the cheap offerings from all the vendors and will suffice for at least 80% of drivers and applications...track rats, pull on boyracerz, insecure showboats and those south of 35 degree latitude may benefit from something different...lol

The Phoenix is basically what you are referring too.... I ordered one of them... but I was only planning on going MHD stage2 due to warranty...even stage2+... start running ethanol or major track days I'd upgrade..

Might run Catted_HFDP ... but haven't researched it much yet... but looks like that fabspeed is the only true option... you ever have sales Mike? ... lol

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by valve float

hasn't this has been beaten to death...?...the $200 ebay intercooler shares the same core as the cheap offerings from all the vendors and will suffice for at least 80% of drivers and applications...track rats, pull on boyracerz, insecure showboats and those south of 35 degree latitude may benefit from something different...lol

Suffice as in? Better then stock yea but there are still better offerings that perform better.

[ceedawg]

Originally Posted by valve float

hasn't this has been beaten to death...?...the $200 ebay intercooler shares the same core as the cheap offerings from all the vendors and will suffice for at least 80% of drivers and applications...track rats, pull on boyracerz, insecure showboats and those south of 35 degree latitude may benefit from something different...lol

When you live in South Fla,AZ,Nev,etc especially during the summer these cheap ebays won't even work as well as stock so You spend $ on a good FMIC is worth its weight in gold in all situations.

[valve float]

not gonna be baited....last guy to call out, show up and own this vendor was quickly banned...

do your research...the thread is still here somewhere...the cheap i/c's do a fine job at keeping iat's in check for the vast majority. PERIOD.

[dr.roro]

So what’s the best/recommended FMIC for:

1) Stock / Stage 1 Tune
2) FBO (DP/FMIC) / Stage 2 Tune
3) FBO + Meth / Stage 2[+] Tune
4) Upgraded Turbo (PS2) / Stage 2[+] Tune

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by dr.roro

So what’s the best/recommended FMIC for:

1) Stock / Stage 1 Tune
2) FBO (DP/FMIC) / Stage 2 Tune
3) FBO + Meth / Stage 2[+] Tune
4) Upgraded Turbo (PS2) / Stage 2[+] Tune

Stock / Stage 1 Tune
Wagner EVO I, Active Autowerke or VRSF Sport

FBO (DP/FMIC) / Stage 2 Tune
Wagner EVO II, CSF, VRSF HD

FBO + Meth / Stage 2[+] Tune
Wagner EVO II, CSF, VRSF HD

Upgraded Turbo (PS2) / Stage 2[+] Tune
VRSF 6", Evolution Racewerks or Dinan