12-19-2014, 09:54 PM | #23 |
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/351123754447?lpid=82
Also any of the OEM parts vendors. I might have bought mine at AutohausAZ. Google bmw part 51418224768. |
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12-19-2014, 11:00 PM | #24 |
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Buy in bulk. You can never have too many clips. http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/BMW...r_p/a21788.htm
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12-20-2014, 08:41 AM | #26 | ||
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12-22-2014, 12:59 PM | #28 |
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They arrived on Friday as I suspected they would. Opened the box and the quality blows stock away. Even the boxes they arrive in are much nicer. Cant wait to install these. Maybe this weekend! I will make sure to share my impressions once the have been installed.
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12-22-2014, 02:02 PM | #29 |
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3- Days Left!
Wanted to share:
Just 3 days left to save - Up to 45% off on our most popular BMW audio upgrades Everyone else is checked off the Holiday list; give your BMW the listening experience it deserves. No coupon codes needed; swing through http://www.bavsound.com for plenty of warm Holiday vibes. Visit us at www.bavsound.com, or give us a buzz at 404.381.1800 for more information. Happy Holidays to you and yours from all of us at Bavsound! |
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12-22-2014, 03:11 PM | #30 | |
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12-22-2014, 03:37 PM | #31 |
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So I got mine Saturday. Installed the center channel. Tight space but easy enough. Now the doors. Holy hell the stupid thing is hard to get off. Took me forever to get the wood piece off. Once I got that off I couldn't get the door off. I gave up for the day since it got dark. Imma wait for one of my buddies to help me this weekend....
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12-22-2014, 04:34 PM | #32 | |
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12-22-2014, 06:27 PM | #33 | |
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After I got that out, I couldn't get the door to come off, pulling from the bottom left edge. |
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12-22-2014, 08:00 PM | #34 | ||
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For the door panel, I think you need to pry right next to a clip and "pop" it out. |
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12-22-2014, 09:43 PM | #35 | |
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Any news on the Ghost subwoofers for the F30s? Thanks |
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12-23-2014, 12:44 PM | #36 |
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Yup removed the screws. I might have to try harder to pop that first clip. I'll update after my second attempt this weekend lol.
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12-23-2014, 04:14 PM | #37 | ||
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12-23-2014, 04:15 PM | #38 | ||
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12-23-2014, 05:50 PM | #39 | |||
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I don't think that BAVSOUND is on the market only for the money or they would already have that subwoofer for sale, I believe that they are working on it since that the new F30 came out... My guess is, they only release products on the mark that is worth the investment and they want to do it right on this product. There are options out there but I discovered that you would need a new amp which is not plug-in-play.
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12-24-2014, 09:39 AM | #40 |
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Back to the installation....
I notice that at the very bottom of all the door handle covers, there is a small slot. At quick glance it looks like you might be able to stick a panel pry bar into that slot to push on a locking tab. Is that what it's for?? I've only taken a quick glance under there. Haven't tried to remove it...been too cold or too busy. |
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12-24-2014, 11:15 AM | #41 | |
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12-24-2014, 01:32 PM | #42 | |
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12-25-2014, 04:08 PM | #43 |
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Ok...I just completed my first door. I'll share what I learned and hopefully it will help you guys that are about to do this. I may do a formal write up with pics. But wanted to get this out there cuz if you're like me, you'll be out there working on this right away.
Door Handle Cover There is indeed a long groove/slot on the bottom edge of the door handle cover. There's also a very small hole/ slot at the very tip of the bottom. Get a light and poke your head down there. That long slot will be your best friend. The tiny slot allows you to poke something up inside, but I still don't know the best way to take advantage of it and with what. But that long groove...just slip a panel tool in there and I makes the removal pretty easy. The slot is roughly in the middle of the length of the handle on the bottom edge. DO NOT use a panel tool anywhere along the top edge. There is that rubberized stuff on the handle itself and it can get dented, leaving a mark. Only pry along the bottom. And once you get it going, use your hands. The top tip is the last part to come out. So pry in the middle bottom edge, working your way towards the lowest point. It's easy. I didn't know that slot was there when I tried the driver door. It was a bitch to get out if you don't do it the right way. The bavsound video glosses over this completely. If you use the slot, it's a breeze. Next remove the two screws. Door Panel Again, once you know how to do it, it's not hard. I know...I had to pull my first door off twice. After I had it all buttoned up with the new speaker installed, I looked down and saw the foam ring laying there on the seat. Doh! Pulling the door panel off should start on the bottom edge. It is very hard NOT to leave a slight depression where you start to pry. No one will ever notice it unless you run over the them while your doors are open, so don't sweat it. Trust me, and I'm super anal about that kind of thing. Start about 2 or 3 inches from the lower corner, opposite the hinge side. You need pry up enough to to get your fingers in there. Then like the guy did in the video, you use your hands to snap it out. Steady pressure isn't the way. You gotta yank it to pop the fasteners out. Once you get started, move your way up from the bottom along either side. It sounds horrible while you do it....like you're breaking stuff. Get used to it. The top pops out last. There are different fasteners along the top edge. Be sure to pull straight out away from the door, don't lift the panel up like the top edge is a hinge. Remove the wires like in the video. There are three. One for the lamp at the bottom of the door, one for the door lighting that people say they can't see, and one for the power window. You need to pop up the switch to get at the connector. Rather than pry it up, you can push it up from behind. The routing of the new speaker wire from the back of the speaker out through the foam stuff isn't in the exact spot he did it...but generally it's the same idea. Oh and don't struggle like I did before you realize the three holes in the speaker mount aren't equidistant. There is only ONE way to align the holes. (It's kind of hard to screw something in when there ain't a hole there lol) I used dynamat ultra, and it really does make a difference. Put it wherever you can. When I close that door now, it sounds noticeably more solid. Can't speak for the sound quality yet...I'll let you know when I finish. I did find the source of a rattle that drove me batshit. There is a little plastic linkage piece at the end of the door latch cable, opposite of the end that attaches to the door release lever. The thing is very loose and can rattle. Hopefully I'll get a chance to do the other rear door tomorrow. No use starting the fronts yet, I don't have the tweeters. |
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12-27-2014, 07:08 PM | #44 | |
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