12-16-2014, 04:32 PM | #1 |
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Show me your N20 engine + my Racechip Install
Hello everyone,
Can anyone post their N20 engine pics of the first connector to compare to mine. And how would you pull it off? Since I tried the other connectors and it doesn't remove the same way. I may think mine is broken Here are 3 pics, 2 from its suppose to look like and 1 pic from my car. ** Update ** I chose Racechip due to its quality and reviews from F15 members. Other reviews from European tuners such as ACS as well and being ranked as top winner in Euro Chiptuning. Racechip for N20 plugs into 3 easy sensors (MAP, TMAP and MAF) other tunes like bms/afe only tap into 2. I believe development had good reasons to design the cable harness like this. Normally the power should be a bit better with the connection the the air mass, because one more signal is optimized. I have other threads with Dynochart on Mustang and Dynojet against my friends Dinan s1. For more than half of the money better performance its a no brainer. I can have my racechip at stock setting "stage1" stage1.5, stage2 power delivery as well just with a increase without needing a usb cable. Ease of use for me.
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60-130mph 6.5s X4M #HCP
60-130mph 5.0s G80 M3 #OrlandoAutowerks Sauce IG: @bmwF9XG80 Last edited by FSociety; 04-22-2015 at 09:03 AM.. |
12-16-2014, 07:25 PM | #2 |
e92 - 335i
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These pics are connected to the JB4. Good practice to follow when disconnecting these connections is:
1 - Push connectors together to be sure there is no obstruction when following step 2 2 - While pushing connectors together fully depress latch 3 - Disconnect by pulling apart Pics 1 - Connected as is 2 - Connected as is 3 - Finger pointed to lever that needs pushed to unlatch connector to be able to disconnect. This part looks broken/missing in your pic 4 - Latch depressed. Notice cutout section of connector. Latch is shown lifted up which enables you to disconnect connector. If yours is indeed broken you can try using a small flat head in this cutout section or at the end of the connector to lift the opposite end of the latch. |
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12-16-2014, 08:38 PM | #3 |
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@ROBNYC, I usually do it the other way.
BMW connector somehow been pretty bad in quality. I usually use my finger nail to lift the lock from the front of the connector instead of pressing the tab.
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12-16-2014, 09:08 PM | #4 | |
e92 - 335i
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Quote:
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12-16-2014, 09:47 PM | #5 |
e92 - 335i
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Sounds as if the dealer either, 1. Isn't too bright, 2. Never even looked at that specific connection.
It should be easy using mine or r33's method for removing the connector for this time as well as future instances. Once you get it the first time you should have a problem in the future as long as it doesn't continue to break apart. |
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12-17-2014, 09:02 PM | #6 |
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@ROBNYC, I would put it under the cover by the driver side windshield.
There should be plenty of room in there.
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12-17-2014, 09:10 PM | #7 |
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I would if I could find the release lever
I picked my 328 up at Welt in August of last year. They opened the hood to show me the engine. After reading your post, I realized that I haven't opened the hood since then. Maybe its because I went from an 8 cylinder (540) to 4 and subconsciously I don't want to look
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12-17-2014, 10:03 PM | #8 | |
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I didn't spent enough time with it as my wife drove the car most.
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12-17-2014, 10:25 PM | #9 |
e92 - 335i
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I feel I lucked out because I have the stage 1 box with JB4 internal. The Racechip box looks quite large, similar to the standard JB4 box. X3 is obviously setup a lot different. Mine is in the corner by the drivers windshield.
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12-18-2014, 10:25 AM | #11 |
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oh man all the water will run through this particular place, be careful !
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F30 328i - 8 auto.. JB4-EWG harness, OCC, Injen Intake, AFE Scoop, AFE dp, AA axle-back - H&R springs, H&R Rear SB, Front Strut, F&R BMS spacers..
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12-18-2014, 10:27 AM | #12 |
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Review please !!
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F30 328i - 8 auto.. JB4-EWG harness, OCC, Injen Intake, AFE Scoop, AFE dp, AA axle-back - H&R springs, H&R Rear SB, Front Strut, F&R BMS spacers..
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12-18-2014, 11:45 AM | #13 |
e92 - 335i
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12-18-2014, 04:26 PM | #14 |
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same here but i use a small 8mm wrench to lift the tab
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12-18-2014, 04:54 PM | #15 |
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@ROBNYC, where you put it looks like the best place in your case.
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12-22-2014, 07:58 PM | #18 |
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Not sure what are my default settings but i like stock already.
High torque very low Will keep it like this and after some miles gonna test change the settings. |
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01-12-2015, 04:19 PM | #20 |
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would you mind sharing your experience, what fuel you use & how is it compared to JB4 as you stated you've owned it before.
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F30 328i - 8 auto.. JB4-EWG harness, OCC, Injen Intake, AFE Scoop, AFE dp, AA axle-back - H&R springs, H&R Rear SB, Front Strut, F&R BMS spacers..
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01-12-2015, 10:12 PM | #21 |
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As explained on other post, this tune is moderate and not aggressive as the JB4. My correct seetings are E now and the car pulls at 3k rpms excellent. I believe max settings is F so next week it will be at max tune. Running 93oct puma fuel now. This is a little more power than BMS stage1 but not comparable with the JB4 i still own .
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01-13-2015, 04:30 AM | #22 | |
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Quote:
Mention to him easier installation with Racechip Also, you have more to go my friend highest setting us 7 or until you get CEL. Yellowflash has 328 too he's on 3 right now and so am I. And he's going full mods like you Last edited by FSociety; 01-13-2015 at 04:51 PM.. |
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