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      12-16-2014, 04:32 PM   #1
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Show me your N20 engine + my Racechip Install

Hello everyone,

Can anyone post their N20 engine pics of the first connector to compare to mine.
And how would you pull it off? Since I tried the other connectors and it doesn't remove the same way. I may think mine is broken


Here are 3 pics, 2 from its suppose to look like and 1 pic from my car.

** Update **
I chose Racechip due to its quality and reviews from F15 members. Other reviews from European tuners such as ACS as well and being ranked as top winner in Euro Chiptuning.

Racechip for N20 plugs into 3 easy sensors (MAP, TMAP and MAF) other tunes like bms/afe only tap into 2. I believe development had good reasons to design the cable harness like this. Normally the power should be a bit better with the connection the the air mass, because one more signal is optimized.

I have other threads with Dynochart on Mustang and Dynojet against my friends Dinan s1. For more than half of the money better performance its a no brainer. I can have my racechip at stock setting "stage1" stage1.5, stage2 power delivery as well just with a increase without needing a usb cable. Ease of use for me.
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Last edited by FSociety; 04-22-2015 at 09:03 AM..
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      12-16-2014, 07:25 PM   #2
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These pics are connected to the JB4. Good practice to follow when disconnecting these connections is:
1 - Push connectors together to be sure there is no obstruction when following step 2
2 - While pushing connectors together fully depress latch
3 - Disconnect by pulling apart

Pics
1 - Connected as is
2 - Connected as is
3 - Finger pointed to lever that needs pushed to unlatch connector to be able to disconnect. This part looks broken/missing in your pic
4 - Latch depressed. Notice cutout section of connector. Latch is shown lifted up which enables you to disconnect connector. If yours is indeed broken you can try using a small flat head in this cutout section or at the end of the connector to lift the opposite end of the latch.
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      12-16-2014, 08:38 PM   #3
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@ROBNYC, I usually do it the other way.
BMW connector somehow been pretty bad in quality.
I usually use my finger nail to lift the lock from the front of the connector instead of pressing the tab.
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      12-16-2014, 09:08 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r33 View Post
@ROBNYC, I usually do it the other way.
BMW connector somehow been pretty bad in quality.
I usually use my finger nail to lift the lock from the front of the connector instead of pressing the tab.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBNYC View Post
r33, I was able to disconnect/connect the others multiple times but this one (Throttle Body Harness one) seems to be missing something or I just don't know how it works.

thx
The normal tab side of the latch appears to be broken in your pic. As I stated about using a small flat head screwdriver to gently pry up on the latch from the opposite end, same method r33 mentioned about using his fingernail.
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      12-16-2014, 09:47 PM   #5
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Sounds as if the dealer either, 1. Isn't too bright, 2. Never even looked at that specific connection.

It should be easy using mine or r33's method for removing the connector for this time as well as future instances. Once you get it the first time you should have a problem in the future as long as it doesn't continue to break apart.
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      12-17-2014, 09:02 PM   #6
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@ROBNYC, I would put it under the cover by the driver side windshield.
There should be plenty of room in there.
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      12-17-2014, 09:10 PM   #7
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I would if I could find the release lever

I picked my 328 up at Welt in August of last year. They opened the hood to show me the engine. After reading your post, I realized that I haven't opened the hood since then. Maybe its because I went from an 8 cylinder (540) to 4 and subconsciously I don't want to look
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      12-17-2014, 10:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBNYC
Quote:
Originally Posted by r33 View Post
@ROBNYC, I would put it under the cover by the driver side windshield.
There should be plenty of room in there.
@R33 any pics from your 528 when you had BMS stage1?
Unfortunately no picture.
I didn't spent enough time with it as my wife drove the car most.
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      12-17-2014, 10:25 PM   #9
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I feel I lucked out because I have the stage 1 box with JB4 internal. The Racechip box looks quite large, similar to the standard JB4 box. X3 is obviously setup a lot different. Mine is in the corner by the drivers windshield.
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      12-18-2014, 09:41 AM   #10
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Cant wait to hear how the Racechip performs. Read good things about it and AC Schnitzer also spoke ok about it.
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      12-18-2014, 10:25 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f30luxline View Post
I feel I lucked out because I have the stage 1 box with JB4 internal. The Racechip box looks quite large, similar to the standard JB4 box. X3 is obviously setup a lot different. Mine is in the corner by the drivers windshield.
oh man all the water will run through this particular place, be careful !
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      12-18-2014, 10:27 AM   #12
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Review please !!
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      12-18-2014, 11:45 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyminded View Post
oh man all the water will run through this particular place, be careful !
Been at this location for almost a year with no issues. I initially had it wrapped with electrical tape as shown but has been plasti dipped for months.
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      12-18-2014, 04:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r33 View Post
@ROBNYC, I usually do it the other way.
BMW connector somehow been pretty bad in quality.
I usually use my finger nail to lift the lock from the front of the connector instead of pressing the tab.
same here but i use a small 8mm wrench to lift the tab
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      12-18-2014, 04:54 PM   #15
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@ROBNYC, where you put it looks like the best place in your case.
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      12-22-2014, 07:53 PM   #16
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Here is my racechip ultimate install a few minutes ago:
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      12-22-2014, 07:56 PM   #17
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      12-22-2014, 07:58 PM   #18
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Not sure what are my default settings but i like stock already.
High torque very low
Will keep it like this and after some miles gonna test change the settings.
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      01-12-2015, 02:47 PM   #19
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Now iam running in d mode on the RC.
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      01-12-2015, 04:19 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kendroz View Post
Now iam running in d mode on the RC.
would you mind sharing your experience, what fuel you use & how is it compared to JB4 as you stated you've owned it before.
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      01-12-2015, 10:12 PM   #21
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As explained on other post, this tune is moderate and not aggressive as the JB4. My correct seetings are E now and the car pulls at 3k rpms excellent. I believe max settings is F so next week it will be at max tune. Running 93oct puma fuel now. This is a little more power than BMS stage1 but not comparable with the JB4 i still own .
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      01-13-2015, 04:30 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kendroz View Post
As explained on other post, this tune is moderate and not aggressive as the JB4. My correct seetings are E now and the car pulls at 3k rpms excellent. I believe max settings is F so next week it will be at max tune. Running 93oct puma fuel now. This is a little more power than BMS stage1 but not comparable with the JB4 i still own .
Kendroz
Mention to him easier installation with Racechip
Also, you have more to go my friend highest setting us 7 or until you get CEL.
Yellowflash has 328 too he's on 3 right now and so am I. And he's going full mods like you

Last edited by FSociety; 01-13-2015 at 04:51 PM..
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