[Aekdbrich]

Originally Posted by bradsm87

That applies the "Sport Auto" option for faster shifts, but not the higher torque limit on the 335i TCU flash.

Oh whoops. You're right. My bad on not thinking that one through.

But you'll still love the faster shifts! Lol

[insanecoder]

Originally Posted by Stubok

First of all it's 450Nm, so at least get your numbers right if you're going to throw stones.

Also no one is saying we should go above that limit. If we can keep the torque at 332lbft and hold it up higher we can get above 350HP.

For example:

HP = (TORQUE x RPM)/5252

HP = (330 x 6000) / 5252 = 377HP

Finally there has been a lot of discussion about this, and from what I've read and heard from a couple BMW techs, the 335 and 328 with the sports automatic transmission actually have the same ZF gearbox, but just coded differently. So they both have the same rating. In which case given the power and torque tuned 335's are putting down we have more than enough head room.

Nvm I think those numbers were for the 6HP looks like your 328 if F30 have the 8HP45 which should be same for 335
Still from a 328, if you want more power.. instead of juicing a 4.. just go up to a 6 pot with all the parts already rated for the additional power

[Stubok]

Originally Posted by insanecoder

Nvm I think those numbers were for the 6HP looks like your 328 if F30 have the 8HP45 which should be same for 335
Still from a 328, if you want more power.. instead of juicing a 4.. just go up to a 6 pot with all the parts already rated for the additional power

Yea I could do that for the money, you're right, but I'm happy with my platform for now.

400HP+ to the wheel on a car that's 200lbs lighter is going to be stealthy AF...

[Slowestn20]

Originally Posted by Stubok

No 350Hp at the wheels is fine. Even Dinan have Stage 4 tune (which includes a Stage 1 Turbo Upgrade - that's a stock turbine with larger compressor) which gets almost 350HP.

Personally I'm staying at 330lbft and 315HP to the wheels until I get my bottom end done. Then my Stage 2 Turbo will give me 350-380. Wet shot of NO2 to take it over the top.

CP Carrillo for the Pistons and H-beam Rods, they also have an option for upgraded Carr rod bolts, which I have gone for.

VAC Motorsport for the upgraded Clevite bearings, and ARP head studs.

My tuner is Ricardo@ACFPerformance and they can unlock the n20 DME and flash the Bootmod3 patch so you can tune over OBD2.

I know this is a old thread but I’m trying to make 330-340 whp and everyone everyone is telling me I’m crazy for trying this

[michaeld_owens]

Originally Posted by Stubok

I just listed all the main things needed. Other than this it's going to be all the normal seals and gaskets. If your engine is pre-2015 I would suggest you do the timing chains and oils pump chains while the engine is apart.

For 500HP you'll need to close the deck. That's because the head is pretty hard to seal up with the sock setup and closing the deck gives more surface area to seal on and also prevents the cylinder walls from moving during the power stroke (which is what prematurely wears the head gasket and leads to it being blown).

That means the engine block needs to be machined, which is risky business, since the cylinders are not able to be honed (according to BMW) as the plasma arc spray coating is so thin. According to my research it's anywhere from 0.2mm to 0.4mm thin... so at best you could diamond hone 0.001" or maybe 0.002". Not much at all! When you close the deck (machine the slot and then press in the new support piece) the cylinders can go slightly out of round. If you can't correct it through honing, you will get more blow-by, so I'll be taking a chance on this. My machine shop says they can make the section with a little more tolerance to try limit the effect when it's pressed in. Then hone for the new rings and hope it's enough to get the cylinders into round or at least acceptable. If that doesn't work, we'll then you would need to machine the cylinders for sleeves, and then it's a lot more.

You're probably looking at 30-40 hours Labor to pull the engine, dismantle it, send off for machining, reassembly and install back. The guy I would really like to use (Alex at ABR Houston) is too much for me (quoted 7-15k depending on what is done), so I'm pulling everything together myself and will do some of the grunt work myself and get a local BMW tech I know to get it done.

Here is my budget. I've already got my Stage 2 Turbo, Downpipe, Exhaust, Intake, Chargepipes, FMIC, Catch can and tune sorted so those are not included.

Decking the block $500
Pistons & Rods $1750
Upgraded rod bolts $250
Upgraded rod bearings $350
Upgraded head studs $250
Gaskets $250.
Fluids $100.

So $3500 plus labor. Goal is to to keep around 5k.

If I add the NO2 wet shot it's obviously going to be more. About another $1k with the right controller.

With the work listed, how much hp were you able to handle? Would love to get to around 450 hp crank