[Real Deal]

Originally Posted by Suave

Just had a conversation with a race car driver recently about this who competes in M Cars and BMW. he told me with the exception of first 50 miles to ensure nothing is loose or making funny sounds ,that should drive the cars like you would normally drive them all the time. He has never followed a break in period for over 10 M cars which have mostly been raced and driven to extremes without ever having an issue. He only suggests changing your oil after first 200 miles when most of the initial residue will be in the oil. Sounds legit to me!

You know, with modern cars everything you posted makes total sense.

[catpat8000]

Originally Posted by Suave

Just had a conversation with a race car driver recently about this who competes in M Cars and BMW. he told me with the exception of first 50 miles to ensure nothing is loose or making funny sounds ,that should drive the cars like you would normally drive them all the time. He has never followed a break in period for over 10 M cars which have mostly been raced and driven to extremes without ever having an issue. He only suggests changing your oil after first 200 miles when most of the initial residue will be in the oil. Sounds legit to me!

Did you ask the "race car driver" if his cars go 120,000 miles without failure?

Come on guys, you need to use your heads. Top fuel dragsters only run for 15 seconds before their engines are dismantled. Does that prove BMW's break-in process is made up?

Pat

[catpat8000]

Originally Posted by ybbiz34

I think you're giving the average driver way more credit than they deserve.

Tomorrow, I'll ask every one of my female co-workers (no offense ladies) what the break-in procedure for their car is. I'll also ask them about the proper operating temperatures for the fluids in the car as well.

I'll let you know what kind of answers I get. Sure, the sample size won't be great but I think you're smart enough to know where I'm going with this.

You're missing the point. You and several other posters have suggested the whole idea of a break-in is non-sensical. As part of your argument, you asserted that most people don't know about the break-in requirements and you also said if break-ins solved real problems, there would be failures everywhere.

I responded that it didn't matter if people knew about the break-in procedure or not since most people drive cars all the time as if they were breaking them in. In other words no full throttle bursts to 130 mph, no racing, no sustained high speed, etc. They take it easy. It doesn't matter if they know about break-ins or not.

To the second point, about failures everywhere:

Originally Posted by ybbiz34

In all seriousness, car manufacturers include a break-in procedure for a variety of reasons.

For example, because BMW offers both a 4 year/50k mile warranty and free maintenance, they want to pay out as little as possible with respect to each new vehicle that is either bought or leased.

Even if failing to recommend a break-in procedure only marginally increases the probability of the car needing some sort of warranty work or additional maintenance, however trivial, BMW would still want to avoid that risk. Thus, they include the break-in procedure in the manual because the cost to include it is miniscule.

I believe I made exactly this point in response to your assertion that the break-in was arbitrary and that BMW did it because it could. It's highly likely that adding a break-in plan to the owners manual reduces BMW's overall warranty claim rate by some amount.

Furthermore, though I doubt we'll ever be able to prove it, I am willing to bet there are physical phenomenon which break-in is intended to ameliorate.

Pat

[Reid]

Originally Posted by catpat8000

Did you ask the "race car driver" if his cars go 120,000 miles without failure?

All BMW's will run fine up to 50k miles, then fall apart as designed.

[ybbiz34]

Originally Posted by catpat8000

Did you ask the "race car driver" if his cars go 120,000 miles without failure?

Come on guys, you need to use your heads. Top fuel dragsters only run for 15 seconds before their engines are dismantled. Does that prove BMW's break-in process is made up?

Pat

I would have my head examined before I drove a BMW, Audi, Porsche, or Mercedes to the 120,000 mile mark.

Break-in procedures aside, German cars are expensive to maintain once you start to rack up that many miles.

Maybe I could, on my own, keep up with the maintenance on an E36 3-Series for that many miles. But these new cars, with the overwhelming amount of technology they possess. No way.

My point is not that the break-in procedure is completely nonsensical or arbitrary. You and I have both pointed out some of the merits of having one.

My point is that failing to follow it to the letter will not have adverse effects on your car (so long as you warm the car up properly), particularly if you're someone who will be leasing the car for 36 months and then turning it back in. Or someone who will be selling the car once it hits either the 4-year or 50,000 mile mark. Beyond that point, I think it would be very difficult to tell whether any problems or unusual wear were the result of not following the break-in procedure.

I just can't see how exceeding 4,500 or 5,500 rpm during the first 1,200 miles (all while the car's fluids are at the proper operating temperature) would be more harmful to the engine than thrashing it at the track every weekend for the duration of its use.

[dmk08]

Man 1200 mile break-in is going to be very painful for me. I only drive 3500-4000 miles a year. If I take delivery in July I won't be able to floor it until October or November lol.

[chicagofan00]

Originally Posted by dmk08

Man 1200 mile break-in is going to be very painful for me. I only drive 3500-4000 miles a year. If I take delivery in July I won't be able to floor it until October or November lol.

About the same here as I only do about 7,000 miles per year. I'm thinking of doing PCD on the car just for the pure fact that the drive back to Arizona will have me hitting the 1,200 mile break-in about half way through the long trip back!

[aus]

Originally Posted by Money2536

What is crappy about 5w-30? Who wants to have to go direct to BMW to buy special 10w-60 TWS? I would love it if the new engine required a readily available oil.

You could just use Mobil 1 0W40 for all M cars now- not talking about the F8x.
BMW released new recommendations for engine oil for //M cars that includes BMW 5W30 (diesel blend I believe) and Mobil 1 0W40, Euro Castrol 0W30.

.

[Sedan_Clan]

Originally Posted by aus

You could just use Mobil 1 0W40 for all M cars now- not talking about the F8x.
BMW released new recommendations for engine oil for //M cars that includes BMW 5W30 (diesel blend I believe) and Mobil 1 0W40, Euro Castrol 0W30.

.

You just killed all of the romantic professions from the, "We have the best engine because it uses special oils yo!" crowd.

[gee-m-w]

Whatever a 335i takes is what this car will take. 5w30 is what 99% of people will use.

[SD ///M4]

Originally Posted by aus

You could just use Mobil 1 0W40 for all M cars now- not talking about the F8x.
BMW released new recommendations for engine oil for //M cars that includes BMW 5W30 (diesel blend I believe) and Mobil 1 0W40, Euro Castrol 0W30.

Please provide a link to this recommendation. I Googled "BMW oil recommendation" and I couldn't find anything dated within the last 3-5 years.

This is what I did find, on the BMW USA website:

*The following is the only recommended and approved synthetic oil for BMW M (Motorsport) vehicles in the US market with gasoline engines, at the present time.

BMW Long-life rating LL-01 Synthetic Oils for BMW M vehicles equipped with S54, S62, S65 or S85 engines
Castrol EDGE Professional TWS Motorsport SAE 10W-60 Synthetic Engine Oil
BMW part number 07 51 0 009 420
or
Castrol EDGE Professional OE 5W30 Synthetic Engine Oil
BMW part number 07 51 0 037 195

[aus]

Originally Posted by SD Z4MR

Please provide a link to this recommendation. I Googled "BMW oil recommendation" and I couldn't find anything dated within the last 3-5 years.

This is what I did find, on the BMW USA website:

*The following is the only recommended and approved synthetic oil for BMW M (Motorsport) vehicles in the US market with gasoline engines, at the present time.

BMW Long-life rating LL-01 Synthetic Oils for BMW M vehicles equipped with S54, S62, S65 or S85 engines
Castrol EDGE Professional TWS Motorsport SAE 10W-60 Synthetic Engine Oil
BMW part number 07 51 0 009 420
or
Castrol EDGE Professional OE 5W30 Synthetic Engine Oil
BMW part number 07 51 0 037 195

It's the first line that makes the Mobil 1 0W40 qualify: http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...l_1_0W-40.aspx

It's similar to the BMW 5W30 in viscosity.

Another thread here: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...highlight=0W40

.

[Boss330]

Originally Posted by aus

It's the first line that makes the Mobil 1 0W40 qualify: http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...l_1_0W-40.aspx

It's similar to the BMW 5W30 in viscosity.


.

That is NOT a BMW issued recommendation, it's what every oil company can do. They test their oils according to manufacturers standards and as long as you buy a oil that is according to the correct standard it should work. It's not only about using the correct viscosity rating...

I hope people aren't buying oil for their M engines and just looking at the viscosity...

[aus]

Originally Posted by Boss330

That is NOT a BMW issued recommendation, it's what every oil company can do. They test their oils according to manufacturers standards and as long as you buy a oil that is according to the correct standard it should work. It's not only about using the correct viscosity rating...

I hope people aren't buying oil for their M engines and just looking at the viscosity...

I love how you quote me, but leave out the link that has input from multiple engine builders, including a NASCAR award winning engine builder, Mech engineers and who knows who else.

.

[Boss330]

Originally Posted by aus

I love how you quote me, but leave out the link that has input from multiple engine builders, including a NASCAR award winning engine builder, Mech engineers and who knows who else.

.

Which is why I didn't comment on that link or the info found there. I just wanted to point out that there wasn't any "BMW official Mobil 1 recommendation" in the link I did quote. It was just Mobil 1 saying their oil meets BMW requirements. Just as you can find on any oil brand website that has a product that meets the same standards. Doesn't mean it is officially sanctioned by BMW (nor is that it's officially recommended by BMW the only thing that matters when buying oil either).

I was just pointing out that the info in your post about BMW recommending Mobil 1 wasn't true, at least was there no info in that link implying such a thing...

Originally Posted by aus

You could just use Mobil 1 0W40 for all M cars now- not talking about the F8x.
BMW released new recommendations for engine oil for //M cars that includes BMW 5W30 (diesel blend I believe) and Mobil 1 0W40, Euro Castrol 0W30.

.

Your Mobil 1 link was in response to another member who couldn't find the Mobil 1 recommendation you mentioned anywhere on BMW's websites...

I intentionally deleted the other link as I wanted to make it clear that my comments wasn't related to the info found there

[M4TW]

Does anyone have any solid info on this? I searched the procedure for the s65 and there seemed to be a recommended an oil change/service after the break in period of 1200 miles. From my recollection, there wasn't any such recommended service on the N54. I ask because I am doing ED and will likely have to have this first service done whilst I'm there if there is one.

I know that for many of you, a recommended break in procedure is like a speed limit on an empty highway, but I think the service interval is important. Even without a recommended service I'll still get an early oil change, but might wait until I get back.

[/// M sa]

Originally Posted by M4TW

Does anyone have any solid info on this? I searched the procedure for the s65 and there seemed to be a recommended an oil change/service after the break in period of 1200 miles. From my recollection, there wasn't any such recommended service on the N54. I ask because I am doing ED and will likely have to have this first service done whilst I'm there if there is one.

I know that for many of you, a recommended break in procedure is like a speed limit on an empty highway, but I think the service interval is important. Even without a recommended service I'll still get an early oil change, but might wait until I get back.

This has been brought up a few times, BMW will most likely require you to break it in as you need a 1200 mile oil change but I would say let the car properly warm up and then drive it like you stole it :-)

[ybbiz34]

Originally Posted by //M sa

This has been brought up a few times, BMW will most likely require you to break it in as you need a 1200 mile oil change but I would say let the car properly warm up and then drive it like you stole it :-)

Concur.

[-JLT-]

After engines warm, RIP IT!!!

[M4TW]

Thanks to the mods for stitching my redundant thread to this one!!!

Whether one agrees with anything else about break-in, following a mandatory service fluid change (if there is one) would seem pretty important as it may void your warranty otherwise.

How easy is this to tee up in Italy say, if on ED.

[ZTUNER]

If the engines needed break in they would not be filled with synthetic from the factory. Keep in mind modern cylinder walls are so accurately machined they hardly need any break in.

Harry

[czarmar]

Originally Posted by ybbiz34

I would have my head examined before I drove a BMW, Audi, Porsche, or Mercedes to the 120,000 mile mark.

What's with the fear of high mileage BMWs (or other German cars)? All my BMWs including my e39 M5 (with a supposed rod bearing design flaw) went past 150K before I sold them as solid runners. My current e46 has 283K miles. Sure, there's a few issues, but these are solid cars. I'll hopefully buy a brand new BMW for my next car, but I'll have no trepidation about putting a ton of miles on it, and no fear of high repair bills. I'll just learn the quibbles and how to address them like we all will.


As far as break in, I'd plan to drive moderately until the oil temp comes up, and then give it the beans, varying RPM and cylinder pressure.