[Bob Loblah]

Today, I drove my F36 for an hour to test drive a G26 M440i. The G26 is luxurious inside, and the handling feels better despite being almost 200kg heavier. However, having MPPSK makes the G26 sound really boring and left me wanting more. Not sure if it really feels like an all around upgrade.

[B58 _gran_coupe_]

Originally Posted by Bob Loblah

Today, I drove my F36 for an hour to test drive a G26 M440i. The G26 is luxurious inside, and the handling feels better despite being almost 200kg heavier. However, having MPPSK makes the G26 sound really boring and left me wanting more. Not sure if it really feels like an all around upgrade.

The g26 is 200kg/ 440lb heavier than the f36???

If this isn't a typo... WOW!

I.had no.idea the G chassis was so lardy. That's crazy

[N55Msport]

158,000 full refresh…just a few items
New radiator
Water pump
Thermostat
Upper and lower radiator hoses
Expansion tank auxiliary hose
Expansion tank, bleed screw, new cap
Turbo oil return lines
Tensioner, idler pulleys and drive belt
New valve cover, gasket valvetronic gasket
Oil sender
OFHG, OCG, OCG O rings
Front struts and associated wear items
Rear shocks and associated wear items
Alignment

[danb1979]

Interior got a deep clean after moving various fruit bushes and potting compost yesterday...

OEM BMW velour mats reinstated also

[Bob Loblah]

Originally Posted by B58 _gran_coupe_

The g26 is 200kg/ 440lb heavier than the f36???

If this isn't a typo... WOW!

I.had no.idea the G chassis was so lardy. That's crazy

The number is based on my totally unprofessional Google research lol.

I must the say the G26 drives much lighter than my stock F36. Impressive BMW engineering.

[eff32fl]

Originally Posted by Bob Loblah

Today, I drove my F36 for an hour to test drive a G26 M440i. The G26 is luxurious inside, and the handling feels better despite being almost 200kg heavier. However, having MPPSK makes the G26 sound really boring and left me wanting more. Not sure if it really feels like an all around upgrade.

Any G series is a downgrade having the MPPSK unless you get a G series M car or a 2020 M340i or an M550i or a Z4 or an M850i. The G series no longer sounds good. Even the G series M cars aren't as rowdy as they used to be.

The MPPSK is a big reason I got an F32 and not a newer car.

[Bob Loblah]

Originally Posted by eff32fl

Any G series is a downgrade having the MPPSK unless you get a G series M car or a 2020 M340i or an M550i or a Z4 or an M850i. The G series no longer sounds good. Even the G series M cars aren't as rowdy as they used to be.

The MPPSK is a big reason I got an F32 and not a newer car.

Totally agree.

I want to get a different car eventually, but as of now I don't what to get lol. Maybe a M440 or M340 eventually. Any suggestions for a natural successor for a F36?

I don't want a M car due to my driving style, needs and it's too much money.

[eff32fl]

Originally Posted by Bob Loblah

Totally agree.

I want to get a different car eventually, but as of now I don't what to get lol. Maybe a M440 or M340 eventually. Any suggestions for a natural successor for a F36?

I don't want a M car due to my driving style, needs and it's too much money.

I'd recommend a 2020 M340i they have burbles if that's a consideration. Newer years don't have the burble map though. 2020 is the only year that sounds good as far as I know but older years might but not sure.

I can't get past the grille of the M440i although the 2025 LCI M440i does look better since the grille looks more like the M4 grille.

You could get a M240i and tune it those look ok. I know you said no M cars but the new M2 is decent and isn't too expensive.

Personally I plan on keeping my F32 for a while no plans on getting rid of it. I love the F3x with MPPSK.

[Bob Loblah]

Originally Posted by eff32fl

I'd recommend a 2020 M340i they have burbles if that's a consideration. Newer years don't have the burble map though. 2020 is the only year that sounds good as far as I know but older years might but not sure.

I can't get past the grille of the M440i although the 2025 LCI M440i does look better since the grille looks more like the M4 grille.

You could get a M240i and tune it those look ok. I know you said no M cars but the new M2 is decent and isn't too expensive.

Not sure if I want another sedan although M340 does look really good!

Strangely, the front of the M440 looks better than the rear of the M240 to me lol. I do really like how the new M240 drives! Also, I need xDrive in my area, so the M2 is out of question.

[eff32fl]

Originally Posted by Bob Loblah

Not sure if I want another sedan although M340 does look really good!

Strangely, the front of the M440 looks better than the rear of the M240 to me lol. I do really like how the new M240 drives! Also, I need xDrive in my area, so the M2 is out of question.

The M240i is probably your best bet if you're not wanting a sedan. You could always swap in carbon bucket seats!

Oh yeah a Supra may be an option.

[rlesko]

Originally Posted by Bob Loblah

Totally agree.

I want to get a different car eventually, but as of now I don't what to get lol. Maybe a M440 or M340 eventually. Any suggestions for a natural successor for a F36?

I don't want a M car due to my driving style, needs and it's too much money.

Originally Posted by eff32fl

Personally I plan on keeping my F32 for a while no plans on getting rid of it. I love the F3x with MPPSK.

I cannot get past the way the G series cars look...I'll be on the F platform for a long time, or go to a different manufacturer when the time comes. Sad, but BMW designers prioritized gaudy curves over timeless designs.

[B58 _gran_coupe_]

Had some more firehawks mounted. With the 275/30 they looked too small on the rear. They run really narrow on the sidewalls.

These look a bit better at 275/ 35 r19. I still think I could have gone 275/40 but hey

Car is feeling amazing actually at the moment. Running out of things to do now lol

[SharpDrives]

Threw some VLand GTS tail lights on and ran it through a car wash haha

[lpaulodt]

Millway solid rear subframe bushings.
Was the most involving job I’ve done so far in the car, but what a rewarding mod!
No more rear end floaty feeling!
The car feels so planted, can’t wait to take it to the track 😎

[im_an_alien]

Wait, solid as in zero damping? Won't that introduce tons of NVH? And how did you remove the rubber bushing from the sub frame?

[shoman24v]

I remember putting polyurethane transmission mounts on my E36 and the noise and vibration was terrible. Put stock ones on the next weekend.

I can't imagine solid rear bushings.

[MidtownMike]

Isn't the idea of subframe and suspension bushings to allow some flex and prevent vibration and impact stress from reaching the chassis? By introducing solid bushings, I would think that your chassis will suffer A LOT, and that is one thing that is not easily replaced.

[toxik]

as long as the guy tracks it, i have no issue with solid bushings… and he did say he’s taking it to the track in his OP. i hate all the kids that do mods like these or put huge wings on cars that they daily or just take to meets, adding NVH for nothing is poser behavior

[krith]

Originally Posted by lpaulodt

Millway solid rear subframe bushings.
Was the most involving job I’ve done so far in the car, but what a rewarding mod!
No more rear end floaty feeling!
The car feels so planted, can’t wait to take it to the track 😎

If I may ask, which bushing removal tool kit did you use?

I had both my subframes out this winter and thought of doing bushings then but the AGK solid Rubber bushings were not in stock. My preferred bushing for a daily. I still plan on revisiting this part of the car next winter!

[lpaulodt]

Originally Posted by krith

If I may ask, which bushing removal tool kit did you use?

I had both my subframes out this winter and thought of doing bushings then but the AGK solid Rubber bushings were not in stock. My preferred bushing for a daily. I still plan on revisiting this part of the car next winter!

I used the BGS Diy 67310 Wheel Bearing Tool Set (just the sleeves and the plates). The inner diam. of the the two biggest ones clears perfectly both front and rear bushes when pressing them in.

Then I used the BGS Technic Spindle for Train and Pressure Sleeve Set | M10 x 1.5mm to pull and press the bushes in.

I also used this Katsu bearing tool to pull the onld bushing. I however would recommend going for something stronger / stiffer. The one I used deformed completelly pulling the old bushings.

As for the procedure:
I basically followed the instructions from Millways manual: https://www.millway.se/manuals

One must be prepared, as this is a very involving job. It took me 15 hours to get it done, with help of a friend (including dropping the subframe, replacing the bushings and fitting everything back together).

Getting the old bushings out was the worst part. If I had a stronger tool other than the Katsu I used, I believe I could have pulled the whole bushing out. However as it bent completelly, I had to be carefull as it was the only resource I had available. Therefore I drilled holes around the rubber part of the bush and pulled the core out first. After that, it became simpler to get the plastic outter ring of the bushing out.

Also, when trying to pull the bushings out with the Katsu tool, it will get unstable. Maybe if it was a 3 leg tool would have been better. To countermeasure that, I used two rapid action clamps to "stabilize" the two legs and keep it in place.

Pressing the new ones in was not so simple either, but with the freezing tip and some patience it made its way nicely into the subframe.

After all the hardwork, I took the car out for a test drive. The smiles on my face after the first pull with the car feeling planted af without wobbling back end paid it off, at that moment already!
Now I cant wait to rip it on the track this season!

[krith]

Originally Posted by lpaulodt

I used the BGS Diy 67310 Wheel Bearing Tool Set (just the sleeves and the plates). The inner diam. of the the two biggest ones clears perfectly both front and rear bushes when pressing them in.

Then I used the BGS Technic Spindle for Train and Pressure Sleeve Set | M10 x 1.5mm to pull and press the bushes in.

I also used this Katsu bearing tool to pull the onld bushing. I however would recommend going for something stronger / stiffer. The one I used deformed completelly pulling the old bushings.

As for the procedure:
I basically followed the instructions from Millways manual: https://www.millway.se/manuals

One must be prepared, as this is a very involving job. It took me 15 hours to get it done, with help of a friend (including dropping the subframe, replacing the bushings and fitting everything back together).

Getting the old bushings out was the worst part. If I had a stronger tool other than the Katsu I used, I believe I could have pulled the whole bushing out. However as it bent completelly, I had to be carefull as it was the only resource I had available. Therefore I drilled holes around the rubber part of the bush and pulled the core out first. After that, it became simpler to get the plastic outter ring of the bushing out.

Also, when trying to pull the bushings out with the Katsu tool, it will get unstable. Maybe if it was a 3 leg tool would have been better. To countermeasure that, I used two rapid action clamps to "stabilize" the two legs and keep it in place.

Pressing the new ones in was not so simple either, but with the freezing tip and some patience it made its way nicely into the subframe.

After all the hardwork, I took the car out for a test drive. The smiles on my face after the first pull with the car feeling planted af without wobbling back end paid it off, at that moment already!
Now I cant wait to rip it on the track this season!

Thanks! I have all this save for the 2 prong tool. I was curious how one would get around the sides of the bushing to get purchases on the metal lip of the sub frame. I see now.
But your experience with them being stubborn to remove is on par with my research. I was almost thinking of buying the right size hole saw drill bit and completely coring out the bushings. Still may do this. I like over-planning ^_^

[Jvac]

Originally Posted by krith

Thanks! I have all this save for the 2 prong tool. I was curious how one would get around the sides of the bushing to get purchases on the metal lip of the sub frame. I see now.
But your experience with them being stubborn to remove is on par with my research. I was almost thinking of buying the right size hole saw drill bit and completely coring out the bushings. Still may do this. I like over-planning ^_^

There's another thread here somewhere where a guy said it's easier to just take the subframe completely off the car and blowtorch the old bushings out. Sounds like they're pretty stubborn