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      10-28-2015, 08:22 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DTP1980 View Post
Turbos are oil cooled, not water cooled. If the oil pump stays on, then fine and understood, but I'd like firm confirmation of that. Common practice for turbo'd cars to idle on cool down when driven hard - this is why Turbo Timers were invented, so you could leave the car to switch itself off. these tend to be seen on hot Japanese drift cars, as an example

Turbos in OEM roles are all water cooled in recent time.
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      11-03-2015, 09:03 PM   #46
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I would like to start my car in the morning and drive off but it stalls if I due that or it runs like a tolilet for the first 20 30 secs.. don't know why, It just does.
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      10-14-2016, 12:59 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndotagSwizz View Post
I let it sit for about 30sec only if the engine is cold like a morning start up, because if the engine is cold and I try to drive off right away the car jerks a couple of times as if the gas hasn't reach destination for whatever reason
Mine happens on reverse. if I start the car and backup immediately then cars almost feels like it loses power and shakes a bit. this happens on cold temperature ~60F. Took it to dealership and they said I have to let it idle for 1min then reverse. If I do this then I don't have the problem. Wondering why other cars I've driven doesn't do this but oh well, I just let it idle in the garage for a minute before driving.
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      10-15-2016, 02:45 AM   #48
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      10-19-2016, 11:41 AM   #49
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For my 340i, i turn it on, drive it out of my garage immediately so i dont get fumes stuck in it when i leave. Go inside take a leak and get whatever it is i always forget than go drive normal under 3k until oil temp warms up
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      10-23-2016, 08:05 PM   #50
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I wait until the RPMs drop under 1k and then I drive off.
I don't dog it until I'm around normal temperature.

Then again, I live in D.C. so I don't really get the chance to open her up often unless I'm trying to get in front of someone lol
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      10-23-2016, 09:26 PM   #51
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I just drive starting in eco pro and keep the revs down til the oil temp rises then its off to the races
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      12-09-2016, 05:31 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richie_s View Post
Some people say 30 sec of idle is necessary, others say more than a minute, and some say to just drive off immediately.

I usually just drive off immediately and keep the revs below 2,000 rpm.

What do you guys think is best?
just drive off. quickest and least damaging way to warm it up.
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      12-10-2016, 02:00 PM   #53
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I usually let it idle for a few seconds till the revs drop and then drive gently until warmed up.. I think it might be good to let the pistons, cylinders and head to warm up a little before putting the engine under load.. Just my thoughts..
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      03-18-2017, 10:42 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loggin View Post
I usually let it idle for a few seconds till the revs drop and then drive gently until warmed up.. I think it might be good to let the pistons, cylinders and head to warm up a little before putting the engine under load.. Just my thoughts..
Very good advice here, I will use the ecopro. In Canada we had several spells of -40C (-40F). The highway is 2.5 miles from my place, and drive to work 11 km (6.5 miles). If letting it idle for just one minute, not only the auto choke stay on for the entire ride, but the engine is still very much cold, sluggish, the car feels a stiff brick. The car just does not respond. These temperatures are brutal, and they really shrink al metal parts my quite a few microns.

Consequently, below -9F/-22C, I do leave it min 5-10 min and I always achieve power status by the time I hit the highway, and the battery may begin charging at some point- opening the ski trap, warm air makes it to the battery. Although BMW staff told me that these cars need 30+ miles to begin charging, I found out that, besides regular trickle charging, hot air in the trunk is important. Below -10F the car would barely warm up even with 10 min driving.

As soon as temperature or engine warm up, I do rip it and get rid of carbon build up. In Ottawa they have an unusual amount of service calls for M3/4 power drop in winter, caused exclusively by carbon buildup due to short work distances, no engine effort, and fuel auto choke.

However, if I was parked in a garage, I would, indeed, just start and go.
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      03-22-2017, 12:58 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STR8-6IX View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by richie_s View Post
Some people say 30 sec of idle is necessary, others say more than a minute, and some say to just drive off immediately.

I usually just drive off immediately and keep the revs below 2,000 rpm.

What do you guys think is best?
just drive off. quickest and least damaging way to warm it up.
My 340 seems to warm up very quickly. I don't idle, just drive straight away. Sometimes it's about 5 minutes and the temp gauge is already at operating temperatures.

My 135 however took forever!
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      03-22-2017, 11:22 AM   #56
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In our heated garage, I start car and drive off slowly. The diesel like clickety-clack noise that reverberates in the garage drives me nuts.

I might idle the car for a 20-30 seconds if it is parked outside in the dead of winter before driving away slowly.

Don't like the car running super rich and not moving.
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      03-22-2017, 12:21 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DTP1980 View Post
Neither old nor modern cars are supposed to idle at start up. The increased revs followed by the drop is the automatic choke (increased fuel to air ratio). The quicker you put the car under load, ie driving, the quicker it warms ups up and the quicker the auto choke disengages. Also, the exhaust emissions are at their dirtiest at cold start up so another reason to drive off immediately. This applies for petrol or diesel. Proof of this is if you let the car idle for 10 minutes from stone cold, it'll achieve only a very low engine temp. But using the method I have described, the car will take a fraction of the time to hit the same operating temperature and quickly go on to achieving normal operating temp.

In terms of driving hard, best practise is to let the oil/ water (subject to your model depends on what gauge you get) temperature hit normal, and by then the gearbox and diff oil will be up to working temp too. This will keep the innards safest. If you have an auto, avoid kick down and the 'box and ECU will prevent overrevving anyway, so just drive as normal. For manual 'boxes, I don't think there is any intervention, so refer to the manufacturers guidance for Rev limits.

At the other end of the drive, especially an enthusiastic one, idling the engine is actually good practice (this rule only applies only really applies for turbo/ supercharged engines). So my rule is, that for every mile driven, I let the car idle before I switch it off (ie, 100 miles driven, 100 seconds cool down) This protects the turbos from overheating ("heat soak").

Both methods will help ensure excellent longevity from mechanical components and help prevent expensive trips to the stealers later in the car's life.

isnt idling a modern turbo engine before you shut it off to cool down not necessary anymore?

I think the best thing to do would be to crank up your heater for the last 5 min of your drive. this lowers coolant temps by a considerable amount, and since your waterpump circulates coolant around your engine for some time after you turn off the engine, your turbos will be cooled without needing to idle once you get to your destination.
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      03-22-2017, 12:22 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loggin View Post
I usually let it idle for a few seconds till the revs drop and then drive gently until warmed up.. I think it might be good to let the pistons, cylinders and head to warm up a little before putting the engine under load.. Just my thoughts..
nothing is going to be warmed up from a few seconds, or even a few minutes of idling. like someone else said earlier, the quickest and most effective way to warm up your car as soon as possible is by driving off right away.
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      03-22-2017, 01:00 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STR8-6IX View Post
nothing is going to be warmed up from a few seconds, or even a few minutes of idling. like someone else said earlier, the quickest and most effective way to warm up your car as soon as possible is by driving off right away.
This is the first car I have ever done this with (thanks to the advice here) and haven't looked back once. Gas mileage has improved a lot more than I thought plus I no longer find the need to have a remote starter. Win win here
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      03-22-2017, 01:03 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by jeffc83 View Post
This is the first car I have ever done this with (thanks to the advice here) and haven't looked back once. Gas mileage has improved a lot more than I thought plus I no longer find the need to have a remote starter. Win win here
agreed. your car uses tons of fuel on a cold start just to stay idling because it is so inefficient when cold.
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      03-22-2017, 01:03 PM   #61
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I warm it up in sport mode as it revs higher in sport+. If people are being dicks on the road I'll launch in sport+ than switch back to sport to prevent revving too much until its warmed up.
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      03-22-2017, 01:13 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _bdiddyb_ View Post
The manual says to drive off immediately at slow pace; but I stay put for 52 seconds (until the rpm goes down, I can hear the valve closes).
I don't hear the exhaust valve close but the exhaust note gets quieter once the engine idle speed drops below 800. I usually drive off at this time so like 10-15 seconds. Is this what you're referring to or you mean the valvetronic? I do notice a valve like sound sometimes if the window is open a few seconds after startup.
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      03-22-2017, 01:33 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STR8-6IX View Post
nothing is going to be warmed up from a few seconds, or even a few minutes of idling. like someone else said earlier, the quickest and most effective way to warm up your car as soon as possible is by driving off right away.
Depends where you live and how cold it gets.

If you only get minimal spells of -20C then go ahead and drive off.

If you get average temperatures of -20C+ then I would let it idle for about a minute of two until your car gets to normal idle. Oil is extremely thick when it's cold outside (JB4 read 15C for oil, water temps, and about 20ish for transmission.)

I once drove off right away in the morning when it was -25C all night and morning, and the car was VERY sluggish. I stopped doing so and let it warm up until normal idle rev (6-700RPM) and drove off and it was fine.
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      03-22-2017, 01:54 PM   #64
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yeah extreme climates definitely make a difference.
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      03-22-2017, 02:07 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STR8-6IX View Post
agreed. your car uses tons of fuel on a cold start just to stay idling because it is so inefficient when cold.
It's amazing how fast it warms up, including the seats and wheel. If I attempted this with my Caddies, I'd freeze half the trip. Difference is literally night and day but I'm not surprised since this is German engineered
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      03-23-2017, 12:59 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaungo View Post
Depends where you live and how cold it gets.

If you only get minimal spells of -20C then go ahead and drive off.

If you get average temperatures of -20C+ then I would let it idle for about a minute of two until your car gets to normal idle. Oil is extremely thick when it's cold outside (JB4 read 15C for oil, water temps, and about 20ish for transmission.)

I once drove off right away in the morning when it was -25C all night and morning, and the car was VERY sluggish. I stopped doing so and let it warm up until normal idle rev (6-700RPM) and drove off and it was fine.
Might want to invest in an engine block heater if the car sits outside under these conditions.
Idling when the car runs rich is terrible.
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