[keevaam]

Hi all!

So firstly i have a 2013 BMW 328i F30(i believe).

Ive been a longtime lurker and just recently started to tackle a couple issues with the car. Initially i was getting a wheel speed sensor code from the OBD2 scanner. Checked the code and my brake pad wear sensor and the wheel speed sensor wires were ripped out from the stabilization bar snapping from a pothole.

replaced the bar, replaced both sensors and tried to rewire the sensors correctly. i continued to get a wheel speed not plausible code from the scanner. Did some searching and figured after 3 wheel speed sensors(1 from amazon, 2 from autozone/advanced auto) It must be the DSC module, as the car still had the abs lights, and CEL.

So i found a used pump/module on ebay, and put it in the car but i had to code it to the car. I didnt bother bleeding the brakes yet as i just need to get the faults cleared first.

I downloaded Esys 3.30.1 and v.4.38.30_PSdZData_Lite-BU, and when i read the ECU, I can see the DSC in red. I select the module and hit detect caf for swe and i get an error code:

Actual SVI has to contain at least one BTLD. [G093]

Anyone have any ideas? I can respond pretty fast, Im just looking to get this handled as the car has been parked since the only thing keeping it from being registered is the CEL for the emissions test.

Thanks in advance!

[LA1Z24]

You should put the old abs module back in the car, and diagnose the issue properly instead of throwing parts and money at it.

There's plenty more besides a wheel speed sensor that can cause an issue. Wrong tire pressure, mismatched tire sized, broken tone wheels, bad wheel bearings etc. All these things can cause issues with ABS and DSC.

I'm more inclined to believe there's an internal break in a wheel speed sensor wire, than the module going bad. Shorting wheel speed sensor wires together should cause no damage to the module. There is almost zero current flow through an ABS sensor.

[keevaam]

Originally Posted by LA1Z24

You should put the old abs module back in the car, and diagnose the issue properly instead of throwing parts and money at it.

There's plenty more besides a wheel speed sensor that can cause an issue. Wrong tire pressure, mismatched tire sized, broken tone wheels, bad wheel bearings etc. All these things can cause issues with ABS and DSC.

I'm more inclined to believe there's an internal break in a wheel speed sensor wire, than the module going bad. Shorting wheel speed sensor wires together should cause no damage to the module. There is almost zero current flow through an ABS sensor.

I'm open to it, as that would definitely be easier for me to do.

I dont know how to add images but i kept a written log of troubleshooting the wiring codes:

There was a

yellow/brown wire: YB
Yellow/green wire: YG
Brown wire: B
Red/Brown wire: RB

with 4 wires and 12 combinations the results i got(left is red wire and right is black to pigtail connector) were:

YB/YG: Code P152B (Wheel speed not plausible)
YB/RB: Code P152B
B/YG: Code P152B
B/RB: Code P152B


YB/B: Code P15B8(Open/short to ground/malfunction sensor)
YG/B: Code P15B8
YG/RB: Code P15B8
YG/YB: Code P15B8
B/YB: Code P15B8
RB/YB: Code P15B8
RB/YG: Code P15B8
RB/B: Code P15B8

I replaced the YG, B, and RB wires, traced them back to the connector to the DSC and with the multimeter i was able to see that the wires with power(didnt write them down) one got less than a volt with the power off and the other had about 10v with the power off. power on gave me 11 volts across both lines with power.

Tire Pressure:

The issue started after hitting a pothole so i had the car sitting for a couple months and then i replaced a damaged tire that was rubbing against the right strut and filled all tires to factory specs. replaced the lower control arm and brakes and rotors also on both sides front and back

mismatched tire sized

Should have factory sized tires on the car but they are used, should i try new tires?

broken tone wheels

Im not sure what that means, the wheels are all stock except for the front passenger side, and that one is stock but welded together from a repair, had not had any abs issues prior to the wheel speed sensor

bad wheel bearings

I agree its possible, but im not getting any of the same symptoms that i got from my chevy trax. no odd sounds, no weird vibrations, all of the braking issues were fixed with the rotor/brake/control arm repair/swap. Is there any definitive way to diagnose a wheel bearing going bad?

If it helps the only wheel speed sensor that is throwing a code is the front drivers side, which is the one that had the damaged wires.

I appreciate the response!

[LA1Z24]

Put the original DSC module in the car and tell us what the code is that is coming back. the exact code number

[keevaam]

Hi, Thank you for the response!

I put the original module back in the car and i have 5 stored codes and 1 pending code now:

P1339
P152A
P1505
P15DA
P152B

Pending code:

P15B8

Anything else that might help?

Sorry for the late reply

[LA1Z24]

We need the BMW codes. P codes wont help here

[keevaam]

Based on the 2013 BMW 328i ECU variant on eBay I most likely have the

MEVD172

So the stores BMW codes would be:

130F20: Exhaust camshaft: offset angle to crankshaft outside tolerance

1B0A60: Driving speed, plausibility: Minimum speed under load implausible

1B0808: Driving speed, plausibility: Speed signal implausible

1B0A65: Driving speed, wheel RPM sensor front/left, signal change: Not plausible

1B0A61: Driving speed, plausibility: Minimum speed when in coasting/overrun mode implausible

The pending code would be:

1BD508:Vehicle speed, wheel RPM sensor front/left, electrical: Malfunction

[LA1Z24]

Originally Posted by keevaam

Based on the 2013 BMW 328i ECU variant on eBay I most likely have the

MEVD172

So the stores BMW codes would be:

130F20: Exhaust camshaft: offset angle to crankshaft outside tolerance

1B0A60: Driving speed, plausibility: Minimum speed under load implausible

1B0808: Driving speed, plausibility: Speed signal implausible

1B0A65: Driving speed, wheel RPM sensor front/left, signal change: Not plausible

1B0A61: Driving speed, plausibility: Minimum speed when in coasting/overrun mode implausible

The pending code would be:

1BD508:Vehicle speed, wheel RPM sensor front/left, electrical: Malfunction

Is the car awd or rwd?

[keevaam]

The car is RWD

[LA1Z24]

First, I would get a sheet of magnetic viewing film off amazon. It's green plastic. Remove the left front wheel bearing, hold the film up to the back side and inspect the magnetic ring. There should be even spaces all the way around. Any break in the spacing will require a new bearing. The magnetic ring sometimes corrodes and falls apart.

Sometimes the ring is on the backside of the bearing, somethings its on the outside circumference.

[keevaam]

Would it be worth changing both bearings?

It has 180,000 miles on the car but I replaced the engine 2 years ago, never did the bearings tho.

Or would you recommend just testing it first?

[keevaam]

In case anyone wanted an update, or is in the same situation:

The wheel speed sensor is very sensitive to resistance in the wire and I spliced in wires that were too big!

Went to my local pull a part as soon as they got a compatible model and I cut out the sensor as well as the line leading back to the ABS pump.

Threw mine back in the car, bled the brakes, spliced the new wires with solder and cleared the codes, they haven’t come back since.

Appreciate all the help! Now I just need to complete the drive cycle and she’s back on the road!

[Active3]

We having the same problem and fault codes with my son's car. He hit a curb and the wheel ripped the WSS harness off the car. Got all of the knee assembly parts back in and we are down to getting the lights reset. The wiring looks good to the connector, it ripped up closer to the Wheel Speed Sensos(WSS.)

We have the same codes (P) as the OP on my Autel. I have not ever used the INPA package, but would be comfortable using it if needed.

My question:

If the WSS is shorted or missing, is the DSC module going into a protection mode on the corner with the issue? Can it be reset?

We checked for voltage on the module side and it was 0 volts. Hoping it is not damaged as I know coding a used one can be difficult.

Any help getting him back on the road would be greatly appreciated. He loves this car.

[keevaam]

Based on how my situation went, as long as you have a new speed sensor and are able to splice it correctly then the fault clears and you are good to go. Thought I had some trouble with the wiring again this weekend but turns out I didn’t do a great job wrapping the wires with electrical tape, so I rewrapped them with heatshrink tubing and haven’t had an issue since.

ETA: by new, I meant either pulled off a parts car(we have a pull-a-part close by) or bought brand new online. I can’t speak for all of them but I went to 3 autozones/advance auto parts and each one had the specific sensor I needed but used and each one was a dud. FCP EURO is good for new parts in my experience if you go that route but you also have to wait for it