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      04-10-2017, 02:15 PM   #265
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I finally resolved my issue and it turns out that it was a matter of a poor connection(s). I ended up using the replacement pins that are listed elsewhere in this thread. They still didn't seat as firmly as I would have liked them to, but they slid in far enough that the brown pin bank slid into the harness connector without any resistance.

Previously, I had to muscle the bank into the harness and it was distorted somewhat. It does seem as though the replacement contacts are a better fit for the bank.
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      04-24-2017, 08:57 PM   #266
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Just finished the retrofit. Thank you to the ones contributed!!

Some added notes:
The replacement pins listed a few pages behind does work but will not click in place. Make sure you push it enough that the connector housing channel clears the new pin (if you look along the channel as you push in the pins, you'll know what I'm talking about).

I noticed when placing the new pins into the harness, the pins were touching behind each other. Watch out for that. I placed a small strip of electrical tape between the two rows.

Initially, after finishing the retrofit, I got the dreaded PDC error. Ran ISTA/D and it shows an error on center left - no communication. Pulled the REM harness back out and I accidentally placed the pin one spot over (I had it in 52 and not 51). Took 2 minutes to fix this.

Using the step drill bit tool and stopping at 18mm was a bit tight fit. The rubber gasket on the sensor wouldn't fit right without pinching. I could've opened it a tad bit more as the sensor isn't flushed with the bumper. I may fix that another day.

When testing out the PDC, I have this tiny delay when displaying objects and trying to figure out if this normal or not.
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      05-01-2017, 09:19 AM   #267
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For those looking for the PDC sensors...18.99 each OEM BMW (black) and free shipping! (Not affiliated with the seller, just helping other members out.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301733207844...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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      08-14-2017, 08:09 PM   #268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agilbert314 View Post
Hi,

I have completed the rear PDC retrofit and presumably the coding as well.

However it fails to kick in when reversing.

I have run the ISTA+ diagnostic tool and it reports some faults regarding the REM:
- 8049E0: REM: No current coding data stored
- 8049E3: REM: Control unit is not encoded for the vehicle

I have switched my REM from a 61359298960 (w/o PDC pins) to a used 61359329701 (w/ PDC pins).

E-Sys 3.28.1 does not report any issues when re-coding the REM after adding option 507.
Attachment 1555086

Anyone having a clue about what is going on?

Thanks,
Alain
Finally got it working. I had to replace a failing sensor (maybe due to over painting).

ISTA+ was reporting this as well:
REM 80320E: Ultrasonic sensor, rear outer left, sensor fault: Programming
- The ultrasound sensor has a fault in the sensor programming.
- The fault code entry happens if the ultrasonic sensor was not programmed correctly at the supplier's place.

Thanks to all
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      08-30-2017, 07:35 AM   #269
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Why can't I see the OP photos?
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      08-31-2017, 07:12 AM   #270
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hi can anyone verify the connectiins i have madde from the front bumper pdc plug to the rem...

Pin 1 front pdc to pin 48 rem
Pin 2 front pdc to pin 36 rem
Pin 3 front pdc to pin 53 rem
Pin 4 front pdc to pin 40 rem
Pin 5 front pdc to pin 41 rem
Pin 6 front pdc to pin 52 rem

is this correct?
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      09-06-2017, 07:56 AM   #271
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Hello,
I've retroftted Rear PDC to my F30. I bought used REM(700) and VO CODED it.Before that i've added 507 to SALAPA and also VO CODE HU_NBT.

ISTA+ says that two sensors are not responding(two on the right side). I've checked the voltage and the sensors(I've switched them with the left side) and that is okay,(voltage is about 11V on power wire and sensors cable).I read I-STEP and it's 14-07-505(current) and it was 14-07-503(last and shipment). I've tried to DETECT CAFD FOR SWE to match my current I step level(it's 14-07-505) and after I press CODE(REM) E-SYS says that "target svt does not match to TAL data". Am I doing something wrong? Don't know where to look, is it physically in connections or in sensors or it's something connected with coding. On iDrive screen I have "parking assistance not available). Any help will be appreciated. THANKS!
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      09-22-2017, 02:40 AM   #272
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Hello I have F32 428i 2013.11 with NBT. I want install front and rear PDC. What i understand i need replace REM p/n 61359329703 V4. With what p/n I need buy REM?

Last edited by bildukas32; 09-22-2017 at 02:54 AM..
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      10-22-2017, 10:47 AM   #273
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Same problem F20

Quote:
Originally Posted by rubber_ducky View Post
I finally resolved my issue and it turns out that it was a matter of a poor connection(s). I ended up using the replacement pins that are listed elsewhere in this thread. They still didn't seat as firmly as I would have liked them to, but they slid in far enough that the brown pin bank slid into the harness connector without any resistance.

Previously, I had to muscle the bank into the harness and it was distorted somewhat. It does seem as though the replacement contacts are a better fit for the bank.
Hi rubber_ducky,
I have just installed the kit (rear) in my F21 and I got the same problem (no pdc on my car originally), after changing REM (re-used), installing all the sensors, adding 507 on SALAPA, and coding HU_NAV and REM (new CAFD generated..). Not errors while coding but the same error message I can see when selecting reverse. It was quite difficult to fully introduce the pins (REM), and more difficult to get the module back into the connector. Reading your posts I think could be the same, problem of poor connection or so. Did you finally solve the problem changing the complete connector and pins? I have to install ISTA or similar for errors detection. I appreciate any help on that. Best regards.
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      11-25-2017, 08:26 PM   #274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squidlyboy View Post
My Rear Electronic Module (REM) - Part #61359329700 - arrived this week, and since my retrofit cables have not come in yet, i figured i would go ahead and do the REM replacement first since its a necessary pre-requisite task. Thanks to everyone who did NOT bid on this on Ebay ... It was sitting there at $175 for the longest time, and i finally offerred the guy $125, which he accepted It had one missing mounting tab, but between one mounting tab and another mounting screw it was good enough to secure it in the battery compartment.

This particular REM is the one roxxor recommended as having all the necessary pins/connectors needed to power the PDC sensors and connect/run the data to the NBT head unit and stereo speakers. I was tempted to take apart the REM unit to see how its wired, but ahh.. was too lazy But i did take some pics of the install and wanted to share some of my install details in case anyone might find it useful during your own rear PDC retrofit.

Btw... other than having to drill holes in the rear bumper, this part (replacing REM) of the overall rear PDC retrofit made me the most nervous, since its such a key part of the car and could screw up a lot if something went wrong. However, after seeing how easy it was to replace, most of those fears are gone.

The whole install takes less than 15-20 minutes as there is not a lot to remove. This was one of the easiest things i've replaced on the car. However, coding WILL be required after replacing this part to get rid of an innocuous dash error and your rear windows not being able to open/close. Or you can do coding all at once after the PDC sensors are installed. More on the coding part later. Here is the removal/swap procedure:

  1. Remove storage cover to reveal the battery compartment in the trunk. The nice thing here is that you don't have to remove any of the trunk liners which woulda been somewhat of a PITA. Its nice for once not to have to tear apart the car to do something. The battery compartment area is conveniently covered up by this recessed storage cover that is removed by just turning that dial at the top of it.
  2. Remove battery ground cable (13mm nut) - for safety and to protect sensitive electronic components should something weird occur. You might see small sparks fly when the connector/cable contacts the grounding post. It kinda freaked me out a little when i did this. Don't be alarmed. Use an insulated needle-nose pliers to hold the grounding cable for safety. I was always wondering with these new type of computerized cars, that if you remove the power to the car, what would happen? It turns out for a BMW, the only thing that is affected is the time/date. Thats the only thing lost when you "unplug" your car. Very minor impact.
  3. Remove all three (3) electrical connectors from the REM - There are 3 connector/harnesses plugged into the original REM, and all will need to be removed in order to replace the REM. These connectors have the flip-locking mechanism that holds them into place. In order to remove these, a) Press in the release lever/button in the middle of the connector, then
    b) Flip the release handle upwards . As you flip the handle up, the connector should start to move out of the connector slot on its own.
  4. Remove power cable to the REM - this is the +12 power cable to the REM. In order to remove it, there are two things you'll need to do. a) first, use a pair of needle-nose plier to grip the red locking tab and pull it straight out. Then b) press down on the release lever using needle nose pliers, then pull the connector straight out/back towards you.
  5. Remove 10mm mounting screw that holds REM to chassis - now that all cables/connectors have been removed, the only thing that remains is a 10mm screw that holds the REM to the mounting point on the chassis. Remove that and the REM will just pop out.
  6. Replace REM - a) two mounting tabs into chassis slots - there are two tabs on the left side of the REM that slide into the accompanying slots/holes in the chassis where the original REM went. Just slide the tabs into those two holes/slots, then b) align the mounting hole on the right side of the REM on the hole in the chassis where the original REM went, then screw the 10mm screw back in. Your new REM is now secured!
  7. Replace everything in reverse order - just be careful with the little pieces - e.g. red locking tab to power cable, nuts... if you drop them, it will fall between the battery compartment and it will be a PITA to fish out. When you re-connect the battery ground cable to the post, you will definitely see small sparks now if you didn't see any during the removal. Again, don't be alarmed, but i do recommend using an insulated pair of pliers to hold the cable to place back on the post.

Once you button everything back up, turn on the car to make sure everything looks the same/normal. The only thing that should show up on your dash is a warning to set the date/time on the car again and a Trunk Open warning on your dash. Don't be alarmed about the Trunk warning. You have a new REM that requires new coding to bring it up to snuff. From Rsnic:

One other side effect of changing out the REM (but no error shows up for this on dash) is that the rear windows don't seem to respond to the driver window controls. This seemed to also have been corrected after programming. YMMV.

Thanks again to roxxor for pioneering this Rear PDC Retrofit DIY thread, taking all the initial risks and paving the way for the rest of us! You did the hard work, and the rest of us are just filling in details, and enjoying the fruits of your labor

EDIT: add coding info about the 'Trunk Open' warning on dash
Jus wondering if any info has came up about adding the pins for pdc on a v3 den? I kno it's risky but if it's possible I'd give it a shot. Anyone?
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      11-26-2017, 12:15 AM   #275
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Also what exactly is the difference between REM v1 vs v2?
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      01-13-2018, 01:38 PM   #276
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Umm I can't see the OP pictures, seems like they are not hosted anymore. Can you reupload them?
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      01-13-2018, 04:52 PM   #277
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Check this out:

http://s180.photobucket.com/user/rox...?sort=3&page=1

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      01-17-2018, 04:23 AM   #278
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Thank dude!
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      02-01-2018, 06:16 AM   #279
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Problem with CAFD

Hello,
after I swap my REM with a 700,and I tried to code it.
The problem is that CAFD for my I-Level ist not listing (see picture), although I use PSdzData 61.5. My I-Level is F020-15-07-502.
I'm grateful for any advice
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      02-12-2018, 12:58 PM   #280
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Try 14-07-502 if u haven't already.
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      02-12-2018, 01:01 PM   #281
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Are u sure they are oem??

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkwhar View Post
For those looking for the PDC sensors...18.99 each OEM BMW (black) and free shipping! (Not affiliated with the seller, just helping other members out.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301733207844...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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      02-12-2018, 01:27 PM   #282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhnblckwood View Post
Are u sure they are oem??
I'm 99% sure I saw BMW stamp and part number on it as I wanted to keep everything OEM (excluding the wiring that couldn't be bought). Send a message to the seller and confirm with them.
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      02-13-2018, 06:48 PM   #283
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Will do. Thanks.
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      04-24-2018, 03:16 PM   #284
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If anyone is looking for parts for a front and rear retrofit hit me up.

I have all the original brand new BMW parts never installed as well as 8 PDC sensors and front and rear harness.

Also have the REM module with correct pinout. Never got around to installing it.

Thanks
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      04-28-2018, 12:49 PM   #285
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Is this tru that no line bumpers are not marked? Or maybe he jus didn’t see the real faint cross that marks the spot? Anyone else with no lone who did this have the marks for the sensors?
Thank you.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 335xdrive View Post
Thanks for a great write-up, I used it to add rear PDC to my F30 no-line this weekend.

FWIW, no-line bumper covers are not marked as to sensor location. Mine wasn't, anyway. From looking at several photos I placed my sensors 1 3/8" down from the horizontal break line, with the inner ones vertically even with the curve defining the license plate area and the outer ones 1 3/4" inboard of the outer corner of the reflectors. Seems to be correct-ish, anyway.

Drilling from the outside in with a step bit left no marks or burs at all. One other point, mark the location of the right-side panel that is removed to fish the wires from outside to inside ("Running the Wiring", above) before removing it. That panel locates the bumper cover and if it isn't in exactly the right place the fit line will be off. You can undo just the one side of the bumper cover if necessary and adjust it, but it's an extra step fiddling.

Now, I could use a little help if the OP or someone is able -- I replaced my REM with the one referenced above (new part, never before installed) but I don't know enough to adapt it to my car. SVT shows (I think, anyway) the CAFD the module is expecting (in red), but hitting "Detect CAF for SWE" gives a message that the module isn't found. I can see the CAF that matches what the module is expecting in the CAF folder. (If that's what it is expecting; could be wrong about this...)

What are the steps I need to follow to make the REM configurable? Is it as simple as uploading my VIN to the module (and How would I do that? Could it be that my IStep (502, I think) is too low?

Thanks in advance for any help.
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      05-01-2018, 02:00 PM   #286
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My no line bumper had the markings for the pdc fwiw
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