[homeryen88]

10.25” Screen (Android 10 Head Unit) Upgrade Review – Is Now the Time to Upgrade from Your 6.5” Screen?
Before we get into it, you may first want to take a look at what this is:

TECHNICAL SPECS (per their marketing literature):
10.25” capacitive touch-screen | Android 10.0 | 4GB RAM | 64 GB Storage | Qualcomm SnapDragon CPU (8-Core) | 1920*720 Resolution | GPS | 4G LTE Compatible

PRICE:
$550’ish USD (not including taxes or shipping or installation labor)

VENDORS (that list their price at around USD $550’ish or lower):
Avinusa.com | autotecpro.com | hifimax.com | ewaying.com


Hello Forum mates,

This (detailed) blog is probably going to be most relevant to those that still have the OEM 6.5” Central Information Display Screen and who (like me) have been continually thinking about how ugly it is. Because my F30 did not originally come equipped with the factory NAV package, my car thus came with the 6.5” Central Information Display Screen which seems equal parts screen and equal parts plastic (those with the NAV package were treated to the sleeker and larger, borderless 8.8” screen). And ever since I had purchased my car (it’s previously owned; I purchased her back in July 2019), I had been reading various forum posts with great interest on what my options were in terms of upgrading that screen to a larger one.

Technology really does advance at alarmingly fast speeds. After purchasing my F30 and then jumping on this forum, the talk amongst those who were mulling ideas back then on options to upgrade their 6.5” screen to a larger one really focused on two products: the 8.8” VividScreen (by Bimmertech) or perhaps Bimmertech’s ID6 full-on retrofit (also with an 8.8” screen, which you can read more about that here: https://www.bimmer-tech.net/blog/ite...idrive-upgrade). While cutting edge only 14 months ago, these seemed exorbitantly priced with the VividScreen retailing for $599 (or $849 for an upgraded version) and the full-on retrofit (at that time) sporting a $3,000+ price tag for all the bells and whistles. Oh yes, the 10.25” Android head unit was also starting its emergence, but based on the forum comments, it was quite “buggy”. But here we are barely a year into the future. Upgrading to a 10.25”-sized screen now seems like the norm; Bimmertech’s VividScreen and ID6 full-on retrofit products are now somewhat irrelevant/outdated given today’s offerings; and you can purchase a 10.25” head unit equipped with Android 10 for less than $550’ish.

IN THIS BLOG, I WOULD LIKE TO COVER WHY NOW MAY BE THE BEST TIME TO PULL THE TRIGGER ON THIS PLUG-N-PLAY UPGRADE.

Again, this post will be more relevant to those who are just starting to think about upgrading from their current 6.5” screen. Many forum members have already done so and there is more of a deep-dive thread available (here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1699764) on this topic. If you’re ‘subscribed’ to that thread, then this post probably isn’t for you. Consider this blog a prequel to that thread.

We’re still not at a place in time where this is going to be a seamless upgrade. There are indeed quirks…and lots of them. And there are ongoing posts about various hit-or-miss experiences with the Android 10 head unit. But for those of us who have remained on the bubble, now would seem like a good time to get in the game. So, this blog is for you.

Yet, for any of these musings to make any sense, it is important to first look at these links to help set the table:

PRODUCT VIDEO FROM VENDOR WHERE I PURCHASED MY UNIT (we’ll call this “Video #1”) -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikwQXJ_8wBE

PRODUCT PAGE WHERE I PURCHASED MY UNIT:
https://autotecpro.com/product/bmw-3-series-f30-f31-f34-f35-f36-2012-2018-10-25-android-navigation-system/?alg_currency=USD

VIDEO FROM FORUM MEMBER BMWDIYGUY REGARDING HIS UNIT MANUFACTURED BY AVIN (we’ll call this the “AVIN Video”) -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2rFgDrJhGY

OK, now that we’re all at a firm starting point, let me go over some talking points. But, here’s a spoiler alert for you. In the end, I will be giving this product/upgrade a marginal thumbs-up. That is, this upgrade is ultimately good enough for me to pull the trigger and to somewhat recommend although I have several reservations. I am certainly not as giddy about this product as is respected forum member, BMWDIYGUY.

But let’s cover a few topics that may not have been covered in those videos to add some further texture to this “should-I-or-shouldn’t-I-upgrade” conversation.


“OEM/NBT UI”
First, let’s cover the “OEM/NBT UI” side of things. As you know from those videos, there are two sides available to you within this Android 10 head unit. The “OEM/NBT UI” is the side of the menu that retains the look of your original NBT interface. Meanwhile, the “ANDROID UI” (which I’ll cover later) is the other side where you can display one of three updated interface designs (known as ID5 / ID6 / ID7) as well as where you’ll enjoy several “gee-whiz” nice-to-haves (and more on this later).

As stated in those aforementioned videos, all NBT functionality happily remains fully intact!

You can display the screen in either “half-screen” mode and “full-screen” mode (programmable within the factory settings as mentioned in those videos). Personally, the “full screen” mode is a FAIL for me. The image is stretched considerably, and we completely lose the minimalistic elegance of the NBT-styled display (you’ll briefly see this ugly aftermath in Video #1 at the 4:38 mark).

But the “half-screen” mode has its own set of problems though they are, I suppose, forgivable. Now, the left side of that half-screen that contains the NBT menu looks great and retains the look and visual style and spacing to which you are accustomed. That’s probably because this left side of the screen being used to display the NBT menu actually measures 6.5” of diagonal screen space, so there is no “stretch” issue as it was probably just a matter of “moving” the OEM screen to the left.

But, egads – what the heck is going on then with the right side of the screen? That’s just a hot mess (see “Video #1” at the 3:13 mark). Even a socially awkward intern could’ve come up with a better design.
… The computer icon (top of half-screen) serves no function at all.
… The gas pump icon (middle of half-screen) has a functional use in that it shows how much fuel is left in your tank (fun fact: your F30 will hold 55L of fuel when full). HOWEVER, this is only labeled in liters, and that is useless to me here in the US. I understand gallons but not liters.
… Finally, the speedometer (bottom of half-screen) is problematic. While the label reads MPH, the (numerical) number that is displayed is actually in KM/H. Look at the pic I took, below. In it, you can see my Uniden R3 next to the head unit measuring my travel speed at 53 MPH when this photo was taken. But, the Android head unit’s speedometer reads 90 MILES per hour. That’s because I’m actually travelling 90 KILOMETERS per hour (and that’s even a little bit off). But see what it’s doing there? And there is no way to fix this with my product (I’ve sent several emails to the manufacturer which have gone unanswered).

Now, this ugliness could be a dealbreaker for some of you. I’ll forgive this because the font size is quite small, so it’s not a glaring problem. In addition to my unit, I suspect those that are sold by the other Chinese manufacturers (Hifimax and Ewaying) will have this same display issue. The “AVIN Video” does not reveal this menu specifically, so you may want to reach out to them to ask for a picture of how their screen displays. Why couldn’t some genius just figure out a way to show the face of an analog clock? Sometimes, less is more.

Anyway, let me comment some more about the fact that all NBT functions are retained. Currently with my stock NBT UI (keeping in mind that I do not have a NAV package), there are just three screens that I like to have displayed when I drive:
1. The faux Radio Dial (under RADIO -> scroll to top and press ‘manual’)
2. The TPMS/Tire Pressure Monitoring System (under Vehicle Info -> Vehicle Status)
3. Miles remaining before gas tank is empty/average fuel consumption/average fuel speed (under Vehicle Info -> Onboard Info). And this is my favorite display (just personal preference).

So, how do they look with this new screen? Hey, they look exactly the same as when I had the 6.5” screen. So too do all of the other menu display items all the way from the top menu to the sub-sub-sub-menus. If there is one very miniscule complaint, it would be the pictures that show up when you press the center console button to shift your car into either Eco Pro / Comfort / Sport mode. In these images, a tiny bit of the back fender is cropped off. Again though, it’s practically unnoticeable.

And while on the “OEM/NBT UI” side, I’d also want to be able to continue to do whatever it is that I’ve been accustomed to doing. That would include:
1. Listening to the Radio.
2. Listening to the CD Player.
3. Continuing to be able to use the Hot Buttons (#s 1 thru 8).
4. Phone calls over OEM Bluetooth.
5. Continuing to be able to use the AUX port in the center console. Currently I run a 3.5mm jack from that AUX port to my Android smartphone. It’s an LG G8 Thinq, so happily, it has a headphone jack. I very much appreciate having wired output to listen to my tunes via the AUX port.
6. Ensuring that the reverse camera still works (mine is an aftermarket carnavi.com back-up camera).

Happily, I didn’t discern any differences or loss of functionality in these six areas. The radio and CD work as you would it expect them to work. Hot Buttons are unaffected. Phone calls (speaking/listening/accessing phone book) via Bluetooth continue to work as before. I can still have wired output from the AUX port to my Android phone (more on this later). The back-up camera comes on when I shift into reverse and the dynamic parking lines are present. Yay!

Pretty as though 10.25 inches of bezel-less glass is and despite the fact that all NBT functionality is preserved, the messed up half-screen / super-stretched full-screen display would have been a dealbreaker for me being the demanding and fastidious owner that I am (which is why I didn’t purchase the 8.8” VividScreen as Bimmertech looked at my VIN# and said that they would not be able to code out the stretch). So, if the only trade-off was a great-looking screen on the one hand weighed against the messed up half-screen / super-stretched full-screen display on the other hand, I’d probably have kept the 6.5” screen. However, as the infomercials say, “but wait, there’s more.”


“ANDROID UI”
Now, If the “OEM/NBT UI” is Bruce Banner, then the “ANDROID UI” is the Hulk. It’s a monster! Keep in mind that the “ANDROID UI” is designed to give you some added features on top of your “OEM/NBT UI,” so this isn’t a case where you would choose one side or just the other. It’s not Bruce Banner or The Hulk. These two work together so that you have “Smart Hulk”. There are four (4) “gee-whiz” nice-to-haves now available at your fingertips. I’ll quickly recap each one (as these are all covered in the above videos) but will also provide some additional commentary now that I’ve actually had a chance to use it in the real-world for a period of time.

ABILITY TO DISPLAY THE ID5 / ID6 / ID7 USER INTERFACE:
You can choose to display as your UI the ID5 or ID6 or ID7 user interface. If I had to go with one (my actual preference though is the original NBT theme on the “OEM/NBT UI” side), my preference on the “ANDROID UI” side would be ID7. Its orange and black theme matches up well with the amber backlight in the instrument panel. You actually can NOT move the tiles around when in the ID5/ID6 interface (a feature that was promoted when these interfaces first became available). I also find the ID5/ID6 look to be a bit ‘cartoonish’ – it’s for this same visual reason that I’m not a fan of how the 6WB Digital Instrument Cluster looks (and I’m going to come back to the 6WB later).

INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM:
Moreover, the “ANDROID UI” side functions as a full-on infotainment system. Of note:
• It comes pre-loaded with an offline NAV system (by IGO). And you won’t even need to change your IDrive control panel to be able to access it (cars with the NAV package have a different IDrive control panel that features a NAV button whereas my IDrive control panel does not). You can use the scroll wheel and press enter when you arrive at the NAVIGATION tile; additionally, you can also access it via the touchscreen. Anyway, if you’d rather use an offline NAV product, here you go. However, the IGO is a distant third when you can use WAZE (better map rendering plus crowdsourced info) or Google Maps (smart recommendations at your fingertips) – and both those navigation apps will be pre-downloaded to the Android head unit as well. Nonetheless, IGO is perfectly serviceable if you don’t mind its 32-bit video game look. And having an offline NAV program is always a sound Plan B if, for example, you’re driving through the Smoky Mountains and WAZE/Google Maps can’t ‘find’ you.

• You can watch movies as well as listen to music that you’ve downloaded to a USB stick (there are two USB data cables included that will connect to the Android head unit which can then be threaded into the glove box). As you’ll see in the videos, there is a tile card dedicated to MUSIC and there is another tile card dedicated to VIDEO. Here’s something that I want to point out - When you are watching either of the above informational videos (whether that’s “Video #1” or the “AVIN Video”) and the presenters walk you through the MUSIC tile and the VIDEO tile, you should know that the head unit already comes pre-loaded with a few songs within the MUSIC tile as well as some video footage (a trailer for a movie; a video snippet of Mother Nature in action) within that VIDEO tile. I think these are pre-loaded so that vloggers can quickly play something while they are touting the head unit (without possibly triggering some kind of copyright complaint). In order to play music or to watch a video when you enter these tiles as well as to see the album or movie poster art, your files must be uploaded to a USB stick (and inserted into the USB port). However, when it comes to music, I question how many people actually download to USB sticks nowadays. Your radio and CD player is readily available. You can even access any/all streaming music services (more on this later). So, given all the methods of accessing music not through a USB stick, I’m not sure how often I would actually enter that MUSIC tile. I could see the USB stick approach being more applicable if I spent a lot of time curating my own customized playlists or if I were an aspiring DJ and wanted to share my music (downloaded to a USB stick) with my passengers. Yes, I suppose I could see one wanting to have a library of songs that was offline (so, stored on an USB stick). Regardless of my own lack of understanding with how music lovers store their music, what I’m saying here is that the MUSIC tile is only designed to display what’s on your USB Stick when plugged into the USB port.

• As with the MUSIC tile, the VIDEO tile display is very similar as it can only list out what you’ve downloaded to a USB stick.

• Assuming that you are like me and pretty much never download to USB stick, the consolation of having these USB ports in your glove box is that they also double as charge ports. So, now you have an extra place to charge your phone or your wifi hotspot device or your extra power bank (while keeping it out of sight).

TABLET-LIKE CAPABILITY WITH 4G LTE:
• Supports 4G LTE wifi. You can connect the unit to your phone’s wifi (via tethering) or to a portable wifi hotspot device in your car to access the internet. BTW, when you hear a term like “4G” and “5G” and “4G LTE” and “4G LTE-A” … this is really just loose marketing language and you may want to read this article to have a better understanding of what these terms mean: (http://www.wilsonamplifiers.com/blog/the-difference-between-4g-lte-and-5g/).

• The vendor will have pre-downloaded a handful of apps that will be ready to go. Some include: Google Play Store; Google Maps; YouTube; SiriusXM; Spotify; WAZE; Tubi.

• You can enter the Google Play store to add other apps to your app drawer. I’ve also downloaded a dozen or so additional apps and I’ll include a pic of my app drawer below.

• You can bring up a QWERTY keyboard as needed (just like how a keyboard “rises” when you want to type a text message on your phone, see pic below).

• There really aren’t any issues here as it works just as you’d expect. The only comment is that some pages don’t load up “cleanly”. I’m not a techie, but you may have noticed that some web pages load up differently (or maybe not correctly at all) when viewing them on your laptop vs a tablet vs your cell phone. And there is some of that going on here as not all apps in the Android-sphere are tablet-optimized.

• I would not recommend the Android head unit as a tool for work or for composing emails or for editing or for anything other than viewing something or typing in a password when prompted. Considering the screen is in a fixed position, it’s just too awkward to type out sentences/messages.

• Among the various “gee-whiz” nice-to-haves, this feature (ability to access the internet with consistent 4G LTE connectivity) is the most “gee-whizziest” of the nice-to-haves. Indeed, some things that we do on our smartphone will just look better on a 10.25” screen (videos and movies, looking at web pages, finding a nearby gas station via GasBuddy, browsing through your Google news feed). But keep in mind that that this comes with a price. You’ll either need to tether the Android head unit to your phone or you’ll need to invest in a mobile wifi hotspot device plus an accompanying data plan.

SCREEN MIRRORING CAPABILITY:
No need anymore to invest $599 for Bimmertech’s screen mirroring retrofit product (for Android users like me, it’s called the SmartView HD FLEX). This Android head unit includes that feature and you’ll be able to wirelessly mirror your phone onto a 10.25” screen to boot! However, how often would you actually utilize this feature?

For me, I’ve only come upon two instances. The first is when I video my son at his baseball games. When we go back to the car, it’s definitely more enjoyable replaying his exploits on a 10.25” screen rather than on my smartphone’s 6.1” screen. The second is when I may want to watch local TV. I have a “gee-whiz” tech product called the MyGica Pad TV Tuner / Digital TV Receiver. This dongle with an antenna connects to your Android phone’s USB-C port, which will allow the phone to scan and to bring up locally broadcasted TV shows. So, if I’m parked/waiting somewhere for a period of time and there’s something interesting on (like the NBA playoffs currently happening), being able to mirror this up onto the 10.25” screen (and being able hear the action over your car’s speakers) is nice.

I can’t think of other instances where screen mirroring would be needed though considering that the Android head unit comes with tablet-like capabilities with 4G LTE and you can just access the internet in most other cases. That is, instead of screen mirroring to watch YouTube, it’s so much faster to go straight into the app drawer to launch that program.

BTW, let me talk a little bit about how Screen Mirroring is actually achieved here. The Android head unit is pre-loaded with an app called EasyConnection. What you’ll need to also do is to download that same app (you can find it in the Google Play store) onto your smartphone.
Step 1: Tap the app tile for EasyConnection in the Android head unit’s app drawer to open up the program.
Step 2: At the opening menu, select the correct option to start wireless mirroring (via wifi).
Step 3: Make sure that both the phone and the Android head unit are connected to the same wifi source (in my case, I have invested in a permanent wifi hotspot device called the MIFI8000, sold via Sprint/T-Mobile).
Step 4: Now, open the EasyConnection app in your smartphone.

And then, voila! Wireless screen mirroring is now in progress!

This method is better than what most of us have heard of / used – called Miracast. Apple phones do not support Miracast. Some Android phones do not support Miracast. But, this app should enable all phones to connect with the Android head unit to allow you to wirelessly screen mirror.


I WILL SAY THAT THE ANDROID HEAD UNIT IS AN ENHANCEMENT OVER THE 6.5” OEM SCREEN
Here are reasons why this is a compelling purchase at its current price point.

1. The bezel-less screen. It modernizes the interior look of your cabin. Yet, if the 10.25” display might be a bit too noticeable when it’s turned on (after all, it’s a whopping 58% larger than what you’re used to seeing if you have the 6.5” OEM screen), you can also turn the screen off with a touch of a button (and touching the screen again will wake up the screen). Additionally, you can adjust its brightness setting; you can also enable an “after hours” mode where the screen changes its look to make it easier on your eyes between sundown and sunrise; you can enable dark mode (a feature of the Android 10 OS).

2. It answers the age-old question, “where is the best place to put a phone mount?” Because whatever your preferred answer might be to that question, that answer is imperfect at best. But with this Android head unit in place, you won’t need to use a phone mount anymore. Just put that smartphone safely out of the way and you can let the Android head unit do everything that you might normally have your smartphone do when you drive RESPONSIBLY (which should just be taking a hands-free call; enabling your favorite GPS app; queueing up your favorite playlist).

3. There is a prominent speedometer that you can display (see “AVIN Video” at the 2:20 mark; also note that the AVIN USA head unit looks to have a few more aesthetic plusses geared towards the US driver). Taking a fleeting look at this display to see your current speed is better than lowering your eyes below the dashboard horizon trying to study your analog speedometer gauge. Visually speaking, this display reminds me of the 6WB Digital Instrument Cluster. Now, in no way is this a direct replacement for the 6WB (which offers several “super-gee-whiz” features as well) but the Android head unit also doesn’t cost $1700 (that’s the price of the 6WB at the time of this writing).

4. Admittedly, if you seem to be idling in your car/parked for periods of time waiting for passengers now and then, it is nice to have several options at your fingertips to keep you occupied. Playing a video game; reading a news feed; catching up on the latest YouTube vlog; watching 15 minutes of a somewhat recent Hollywood blockbuster. I mean, why squint at your smartphone’s tiny 6” screen when you can watch it on a much larger screen (and hear it over your in-car speaker system)? You’ve got yourself a Man Cave on wheels. Not only has your BMW been fun to drive when you’re on the highway, but now it’ll also be just as fun when you’re sitting in a parking lot.

5. Purchasing this Android head unit could allow you to forego more expensive retrofit products. Because of the $550’ish price point and taking into consideration some of the features included, it’ll make you think twice as to whether you might actually want to purchase other retrofit products that offer similar features/looks such as: the 6WB Digital Instrument Cluster ($1700); the SmartView HD Flex ($599); the NBT EVO ID5/ID6 navigation system retrofit ($1,700).

6. I once was lost but now am found: Yes, it’s nice to have access to an offline NAV program (something that those of us with the 6.5” screen do not currently enjoy).


BUT THERE ARE SEVERAL KEY WEAKNESSES:
OMG Glare...:
Do not believe the marketing hooey surrounding any claim that the screen is anti-glare/anti-reflective. Look, the 6.5” OEM screen is certainly anti-glare. Your flagship smartphone is pretty close to anti-glare. But, the Android head unit can practically double as a mirror. When the sun beams through the back window, you’ll need to re-position your head to avoid being blinded. And, if you look closely enough at the screen and focus, you might even see (though faint) your own reflection. You will probably need to invest in the 10.25” anti-glare protective screens sold by AVIN USA (which fits any 10.25” Android head unit, $17 for a pack of three). I purchased this and not only does the screen mitigate this glare effect surprisingly well, it also acts as kind of a scratch guard.

Navigation on a 10.25” screen can be a bit confusing:
Displaying WAZE/IGO/GoogleMaps on such an enormous screen is actually something of a distraction versus looking at your navigation program on your smartphone in portrait mode (IMHO). With so much information presented on such a vast screen, I feel it takes a few milliseconds longer to find your car icon. Plus, you may spend a few milliseconds more scanning all that extra real estate which you wouldn’t otherwise see on your phone. Plus, imagine making a U-Turn and then having to watch that entire screen re-orient itself. I like the portrait mode on my phone because I like seeing farther ahead / what’s in front of me and I feel that I’m seeing just enough and just what I need. With the Android head unit’s screen measuring 9.5“ from left to right (width) but only 3.5“ from top to bottom (height), you’ll see miles and miles (ok, that’s perhaps a bit of hyperbole) of what’s to the side of you but you’ll only get a reduced/compressed view of what’s ahead. Again, 10.25” of this-that-and-everything is kind of distracting to me (“AVIN Video” shows Google Maps at the 3:16 mark). Thus after much driving and getting a feel for it, I’ve actually decided to continue to use WAZE (my preferred GPS app) viewed in portrait mode on my Android phone (attached to a vent mount) and do not use the head unit’s NAV program at all. That said, I know I’ll be happy that the offline NAV program is there the next time I find myself driving through the Smoky Mountains.

Instead of IGO, download Sygic:
BTW, I have a suggestion. IGO isn’t very eye-appealing, and you would do much better to instead install Sygic as your go-to offline NAV app. This is a very well-reviewed offline NAV program (found on the Google Play store) with better colors, smoother movements, and better lane guidance/assistance than IGO. There is a $12.99 lifetime licensing fee to access its major functions, but it Is well worth the upgrade/investment. BTW, a nicety with the Android head unit is that you have the ability launch the NAV app of your choice. You can activate this in the settings menu (under Settings -> Navigation). So, upload Sygic to your app drawer; enter the settings menu to make Sygic your default NAV app, and that will be the program that comes up when you enter the NAVIGATION tile. Most Excellent!

Bluetooth Music Sound Quality Is Sub-Par:
When it comes to quality of musical output, streaming music over the Android head unit’s Bluetooth is lacking. While I’m not an audio engineer, most articles on this topic will say the same thing - Bluetooth isn’t a great delivery mechanism when it comes to sound quality due to something called data compression (I won’t get into the specifics of those articles, but suffice to say that when data needs to be compressed, something gets lost in translation). Moreover, if you were to read further about Bluetooth technology, you’d read about “AD2P” and “aptX”. Again, I don’t want to get into the technical aspects here (because I am a Luddite) but think of listening to Bluetooth AD2P as watching 480p (Standard Definition) videos while Bluetooth aptX would be akin to watching 1080p (Full High Definition). Both do get the job done, but there is a difference. And, to have any chance of getting close to CD-like listening quality, both your smartphone and this Android head unit would need to be equipped with aptX. That said, this Android head unit supports only A2DP (a claim made on all their product pages).

Once your Android head unit is set up, you’ll have a total of 6 possible ways to access music: Your OEM radio; your OEM CD player; USB stick; streaming music over wifi via your smartphone and outputted via a 3.5” audio cable (assuming your phone has a headphone jack) that you’d connect to the AUX (there is one port in the center console and there is another you can set up that runs through the Android head unit); streaming music through the Android head unit itself via wifi (by accessing the app drawer where you’ve likely downloaded your preferred music streaming service); and of course via Bluetooth. With that in mind, music via Bluetooth is like the IGO of navigation. It won’t be your first choice. It probably won’t be your second choice. It actually may very well be your least preferred option. You’ll likely enjoy higher audio fidelity through any of the other means. The manufacturers ought to know that BMW owners are a discerning lot; we do enjoy high-quality output; and they ought to invest in “aptX” in future iterations of this product.

Bluetooth Phone Call Menu and Ease of Use Is a Bit Clunky:
Let’s pretend that we are still working with the OEM 6.5” screen (or that you’re in the “OEM/NBT UI” side). Perhaps I’m just used to how that screen displays your phone book and your phone numbers and your dial pad having owned this car for over a year but having only installed this Android head unit just over a month ago. But, I’m not a fan of how the Android head unit’s Bluetooth info/menu is displayed. It’s got a funky format geared towards users in the other hemisphere (the closest analogy that I can think of is how we in the US write the date in the format of mm/dd/yy where those on the other side of the world write the date as dd/mm/yy or how we here in the US are used to seeing 10-digit phone numbers but other countries have 11-digit or 12-digit phone numbers. U.S. users thus won’t be instantly accustomed to how the info is displayed.

It's also a bit tougher to navigate through things like your call history and phone book. On the “OEM/NBT UI” side, this is done via the IDrive scroll wheel. With the Android head unit, this is done via the touch screen. But the buttons that you’ll need to press are all the way to the right side of the screen, so this would be an awkward maneuver as you’re driving.

Bluetooth (“ANDROID UI” side) connects to your smartphone only but nothing else that is Bluetooth-pairable:
Now you might be thinking/asking yourself … what about other devices that you might pair with Bluetooth? Well, believe it or not, the Android head unit (the one that I have; I can’t speak about the AVIN or other similar offerings) is only designed to pair via Bluetooth with your smartphone and cannot pair/support any other kinds of devices. Initially, I thought that it would be great if I could pair the Android head unit (via Bluetooth) to the Blackvue batteries in my trunk so that I could see how much battery charge was left. No such luck. I thought it would be super-neat if I could run Bimmercode off of the Android head unit for coding tasks. Nope. And boy-oh-boy…, how cool would it be if I could use the Android head unit to pair with the JB4 and to put those gauges directly up onto that 10.25” screen as I redline her? I guess I’ll never know.

MUSIC Tile Is Not Thought Out Thoroughly Enough:
The “AVIN Video” visits this tile at the 5:50 mark. You might recall that the MUSIC tile is only designed to display what’s on your USB Stick when plugged into the USB port. And although I have never downloaded and stored music onto a USB stick, curiosity got the better of me. So, just to play with this tile further, I downloaded some nice Christmas songs onto a USB stick. Below is a pic of how the tracks are displayed. In any case, the MUSIC tile would be more functional if there was a more comprehensive first-level menu when you entered that tile. For example, it would probably be better/cleaner when entering this tile if it could present a “list of options” of some kind (in terms of how you’d like to access your music) to include things like: Bluetooth; USB stick; SD card; Spotify; SiriusXM Radio; Amazon Music; TIDAL; etc.. as this tile’s top-level menu. As it stands, since I do not create playlists on USB stick, I’d probably never enter this tile (well, maybe I will around December 25).

VIDEO Tile Is Not Thought Out Thoroughly Enough:
The “AVIN Video” visits this tile at the 6:27 mark. As with the MUSIC tile, the VIDEO tile display is very similar as it can only list out what you’ve downloaded to a USB stick. I was not as curious about how videos were presented within the tile’s menu, so you’ll have to use your imagination. But, I would imagine it would be similar in look to what we just saw in the MUSIC tile. Borrowing the same idea from before then, It would probably be better/cleaner when entering this tile if it could present a “list of options” regarding how you’d like to access/view your video, such as: USB stick; SD card; YouTube; NetFlix; Amazon Video; Tubi; etc.. as this tile’s top-level menu. As it stands, since I do not save movies onto USB stick, I’d probably never enter this tile.

Most Measurements Are in the Metric System:
You’ll see what I mean if you go to “Video #1” and look at the :46 mark; 2:41 mark; 2:45 mark. The clock (my clock) shows 24hr format; fuel gauge is in liters; speed is in Kilometers per Hour; temperatures are in C. I know that you can enter the settings menu and toggle some of these measurements over to the Imperial system. But, I am pretty certain that none of these vendors have enabled the Android head unit to completely flip its settings over to the Imperial system. Some measurements will just remain as Metric.

A Tile that Opens the App Drawer Is Needed:
As “gee-whizzy” as it is to have all those apps now at your disposal, there is only one way to access that app drawer. And, that would be via those five shortcut buttons, omnipresent on the left margin when you are in the “ANDROID UI” side. Really, the app drawer deserves its own tile (in the same way that there is a tile for NAVIGATION, COMMUNICATIONS, MUSIC, VIDEO, CAR INFO, and DASHBOARD).

If you are on the “ANDROID UI” side and running a program/app and then you flip over to the “OEM/NBT UI” side, that program will be disrupted:
Music (or any app/program that outputs sound) will not be interrupted/disrupted if you enable from the “OEM/NBT UI” side and then enter the “ANDROID UI” side. For example, let’s say that you are currently on the “OEM/NBT UI” side and you decide to turn on the radio/play a CD/listen to music via your USB stick in the center console/stream music off of your phone via the headphone jack and 3.5” audio cable to AUX … and then let’s say that you decide to flip over to the “ANDROID UI” side to start up Sygic or to enter the Dashboard tile to pull up that colored speedometer / tachometer screen. Nothing happens to the music when you travel from the “OEM/NBT UI” side to the other (which they refer to as ‘dual-zone’ capability). And, that’s a good thing. And, nothing happens when you decide to leave the “ANDROID UI” side to come back to the “OEM/NBT UI” side. The “OEM/NBT UI” side music continues to play and there is no interruption or disruption.

But the reverse isn’t true. And that could be a minor annoyance. Let’s say that you are streaming music via the app drawer and you flip to the “OEM/NBT UI” side. Once you flip over, the music stops playing (the app basically closes). And, when you return back to the “ANDROID UI” side, you’ll need to re-enter the app to start the music all over again.

However, I’ve only noticed two instances where I would want to consciously flip from the “ANDROID UI” side to the “OEM/NBT UI” side. The first is when I want to enter the TONE controls to perhaps adjust the balance (left/right) or the fader (front/rear). So, you won’t be able to play with the TONE controls (on the “OEM/NBT UI” side) while you’re listening to something outputted by the “ANDROID UI” side (as that app will automatically close). The other instance will occur if I’ve not enabled the “ANDROID UI” side to connect to my phone’s Bluetooth (so that Bluetooth calls and menu access remains anchored to the “OEM/NBT UI” side). And since I do not really like the Bluetooth phone menu on the “ANDROID UI” side, this is exactly what I’m doing. For example, let’s say I’m watching YouTube (while parked, of course) via the app drawer and a call comes in… the Android head unit automatically will take me to the “OEM/NBT UI” side and YouTube will “turn off”. Once done with the call, I’ll need to flip back over to the “ANDROID UI” side, re-enter the app drawer, re-open up YouTube. There does not appear to be a “last memory” feature, so it won’t just resume from the point of interruption.

Smudgy Fingerprints:
Well, just look at the “AVIN Video” at any random point and you’ll see what I mean. Aaack!!! Just have a spray bottle of Calyptus brand Natural Lens Cleaner and a microfiber towel nearby. Oh, note however that noticeable fingerprints aren’t really an issue if you’ve affixed those anti-glare screens mentioned earlier.


LET’S TALK ABOUT THE APP DRAWER (PROS AND CONS)
Finally, let me talk about the APP DRAWER for a few minutes. After all, it is the “gee-whizziest” of the “gee-whiz-nice-to-haves”. You can see a pic below of the programs that are installed on my Android head unit and how they look once I’ve re-arranged all of the relevant app tiles to my liking.

• And, that would be the first thing to mention – that you can move app tiles around so that your app menu looks just right. It’s a nice touch.

• Per that below picture, you can view 21 apps at a time. If you have more apps than that, it would just show up on the next page as you scroll down. Also, if you have more apps that that, you just might be spending too much time idly in the car. That said, you can load as many apps as its internal memory can handle.

• As mentioned before, some apps come pre-downloaded. For the others, I just entered the Google Play store (which itself one of the pre-loaded apps) to download what I wanted.

• As mentioned before, it would be nice to have an entire tile dedicated to allowing you to enter the app drawer (as opposed to just that one tiny, short-cut button in the left-side-margin). After all, there is an entire tile that you can press (CAR INFO) that does nothing but send you over to the “OEM/NBT UI”. So certainly, the app drawer deserves its own tile.

• One huge annoyance though is that there isn’t a one-step shortcut that will allow you to return to the app drawer’s top level menu (where you see all of the apps). For example, I open up the Google News feed. I click on an article about the election. Within the article is a link to a sub-article that is of interest to me. And, when I’m in that article, I click on an ad that I find compelling. At this point, I’m down a rabbit hole. Unfortunately, there is no way to return to the top-level menu with the press of one button. That same app drawer shortcut button (that you’ve seen previously in the left margin) isn’t available. NOTE TO THE PROGRAMMERS: that app drawer button should show up next to the “home” icon up in the top left (BTW, the “home” icon takes you all the way back to the “ANDROID UI” page with the tiles). Sure, you can keep pressing the “back” button in the upper right corner of the screen to eventually get back to where you had started. You can also keep pressing the “back” button on your IDrive control panel. But, there really needs to be a one-button escape route back to the top-level menu.

• Let me also say (but I’m also digressing a bit) that enabling music via the app drawer versus via Bluetooth will not only probably sound better … but it will definitely look better. On the Android head unit’s Bluetooth page, it will list out the artist and title and will show a “soundwave” animation. But that’s it in terms of visual pizzazz. When I open Amazon Music via the app drawer, I get artist and title as well as album art AND even the lyrics. It’s a veritable Carpool Karaoke.

• One thing that pleasantly surprises me though is that the Android head unit appears to have the internal hardware to play high-res music. I do subscribe to Amazon Music’s premium service (called Amazon Music HD). In the pic below, you’ll see that the head unit is able to output CD-like (or better) quality. So, if you have an upgraded sound system (something above the S67 HIFI) and have been thinking about that 30-day free trial to one of these streaming music services (think also Tidal Masters; Primephonic Platinum; Qoboz; etc…), it probably wouldn’t hurt to take advantage of that once you’ve gotten the Android head unit installed.

• Regarding watching videos (generally presented in 4:3 aspect ratio on YouTube or 16:9 on a movie site), the aspect ratios won’t match up perfectly here given the dimensions of this screen. So, expect to see pillarboxing (black bands on the sides) or letterboxing (black bands on top/bottom). There is no setting to “fit-to-screen” (nor should there be).

• Try downloading a game like Angry Birds. It works very well given the touch screen and the ample amount of screen width.

• I have an app loaded called Bitdefender. Keep in mind that this Android head unit is basically a computer tablet. Being such, you need to guard against viruses and malware. So, it would be prudent to install and subscribe to something like this.

• I’d like to talk a moment about the Blackvue app (that’s the app for my dash cam). And, I would think that if you own any kind of dash cam where you could download its app from the Google Play store, these comments would carry true for you as well. I own the Blackvue DR900S. This is a dash cam where you can access video footage either over the cloud (the dash cam connects to your mobile hotspot device) or via direct-wifi. First, let me say that when you enter the Blackvue app, it is not optimized for the tablet. However, I have discovered that you can actually view those video files on this 10.25” screen when you connect to the cloud (and bigger is better when viewing footage). Thus, I would think that this would work for any cloud-capable dash cam. HOWEVER, the Android head unit can not view files when connecting via direct-wifi. This is a guess, but I think that there isn’t enough memory available (I’m thinking it has something to do with the available cache, but again that’s just a guess) to be able to download the video file internally for playback. You’ll see the video queue up, but it never advances beyond the 0:00 mark. A side effect of trying to view video footage via direct-wifi is that you’ll discover that the Google Play app/store will no longer be able to download anything anymore (the fix to get Google Play working again is to enter SETTINGS (in the app drawer) -> tap APPS AND NOTIFCATIONS -> tap GOOGLE PLAY STORE -> tap CLEAR CACHE and also tap CLEAR STORAGE (two separate buttons/steps). Anyway, it’s something to keep in mind.

• Finally, in order to allow the tablet to access the internet, you’ll need to tether it to your phone or you’ll need to have a mobile wifi device in your car. Between the added costs of a data plan and something like Bitdefender, there are going to be possibly ongoing expenses that you may not have initially anticipated.


HERE ARE MY PERSONAL THOUGHTS. DO I LIKE IT FOR MYSELF?
The Android head unit, with its litany of features, is really a smorgasbord with some things that you’ll like and some things that you may not care for as much. And, while I think this Android head unit is certainly nice to have - and I will give this a marginal thumbs-up – it’s also not necessary to have.

My biggest issue is that after playing with everything and testing various scenarios that are important to me, I came to the conclusion that I wasn’t willing to subordinate some of my phone’s (more important) functions over to the Android head unit.

Yes, you can pull up WAZE on the Android head unit. But I definitely prefer looking at WAZE on my smartphone in portrait mode versus looking at WAZE on a gigantic 10.25” screen. It’s not just the elongated display that puts me off but it’s also the fact that glare (unless you purchase those anti-glare screens) creates a visual washout.

Yes, the Bluetooth works on the Android head unit. But I’d rather NOT let the Android head unit pair its Bluetooth with my smartphone. First, I have no reason to stream music over Bluetooth. Second, the OEM side’s Bluetooth phone menu is more intuitive, and I’d rather not have to take a moment to decipher what I’m seeing when I’m within the “ANDROID UI” Bluetooth. Fortunately, this is an easy fix as all I’d need to do is to change the permission setting in my smartphone to prevent the Android head unit from automatically pairing to my phone (swipe down to view settings menu -> long press the Bluetooth icon -> enter settings associated with the Android head unit -> turn off/disable call audio and media audio).

Yes, I can stream music via the Android head unit (and in high-res too). But, IMHO, music quality/clarity does sound better when I’m streaming music through my phone - outputted via the phone’s headphone jack -> 3.5” audio cable -> AUX port in the center console. However, this preference exists because my smartphone (LG G8 Thinq) has a headphone jack. So, if your phone does not, you can skip the rest of this explanation (and play your music either over wifi through the app drawer or via a USB stick if you’re one of the few that stores music this way).

I’ve listened and listened and compared and compared the 3 ways you can listen to streaming music in my car. The first is via Bluetooth and enough has been said about that. And I can hear the declination in audio quality. The second is via wifi through the Android head unit. The third would be through my smartphone / outputted via the phone’s headphone jack (3.5” audio cable) / AUX port in the center console. I believe that this third way is the best for me. In my case, my LG G8 Thinq has sophisticated sound enhancing programs within along with a robust, built-in DAC (digital-to-audio converter). Also, I have downloaded onto my smartphone an Equalizer app to give me an extra sound kick because I believe that EQ settings (this app allows me to save customized EQ settings, which I can select from a drop-down menu) should be different when you listen to classical music vs an R&B song by Queen Naija vs songs by obscure ‘80s new wave bands (e.g. Aztec Camera; New Order; Alphaville).

Finally, I prefer to display the ONBOARD INFO page when driving (as mentioned earlier, this is the display that tells me how many miles I have left before my gas tank is empty / what is my average speed / what is my miles per gallon efficiency). But, this display is on the “OEM/NBT UI” side. So, given how the Android head unit behaves, I cannot simultaneously be on the “OEM/NBT UI” side and stream music via the app drawer on the “ANDROID UI” side.

Thus, my smartphone will remain on its current phone mount. And, passengers will either think that my cockpit is high-tech cool or be worried that it’s overcluttered.


WAIT … TWO OUTPUT SOURCES BUT JUST ONE AUX? What to do?
Since I am opting to separate my smartphone from the Android head unit … AND since both need to output sound via the AUX port in the center console … AND since there is only one AUX port available, you may be wondering then how I can make this “dual-system” work. Of course, one option is to manually switch out the 3.5” audio cables when I want to listen to something outputted by the smartphone (i.e. primarily streaming music) or outputted by the Android head unit (e.g.: Sygic, any app via the app drawer, any file via the MUSIC or VIDEO tiles).

However, I actually found this nifty $20 device on Amazon. Pic below. It’s an AB Audio Switch (technical name: NETmate 2 PORT 3.5mm STEREO Manual Switch Box AUX Audio). It is able to separate the incoming signals. For example, if you were to just use an AUX splitter, you would hear noise coming from both sources (the smartphone and the Android head unit) simultaneously. So, this AB Audio Switch allows one signal to be outputted without interference from the other. When you look at the picture below, you’ll see the 3.5” audio cable that runs to my smartphone (the wire closest to the driver); another 3.5” audio cable that runs to the Android head unit (center cable, which is threaded underneath the center console and to the head unit); and a third 3.5” audio cable that connects to the AB Audio Switch Box and is plugged into the car’s AUX port within that center console (this 3rd cable is purchased separately). For me, this is a cleaner way (pressing “2” to hear what’s outputted from my smartphone; pressing “1” to hear what’s outputted from the Android head unit) of switching back and forth rather than manually plugging and unplugging wires into the AUX port.

Side note: BTW, yes, the Android head unit also has its own AUX port (access to this is via the app drawer). In theory, I could run that 3.5” audio cable into that and it would map out this way: smartphone -> 3.5” cable with two male ends (the one I’m using now) -> 3.5” female with 2 RCA male stereo audio cables (this is something you’d have to buy additionally) -> Android head unit AUX IN L/R cables (included in package) -> audio cable that runs from Android head unit to the AUX port in center console (also included in package). But, I opted to keep the AB Audio Switch because I was concerned that if I was using the “ANDROID UI” (with this AUX being in the app drawer) and flipped over to the “NBT OEM UI” side, that connection would be disrupted (although I didn’t actually test this out).

Phew! That’s a lot of verbiage. And, admittedly, this may very well just pertain to me and maybe three other forum readers. Anyways…


IN GENERAL, WOULD THIS BE SOMETHING FOR YOU?
My biggest and current “pain point” is having that 6.5” OEM screen. And I am eager to NOT have the 6.5” OEM screen as the centerpiece of my dashboard. So, that’s why even though there are more (IMHO) minuses than plusses, the Android head unit gets the marginal thumbs-up thanks to its dramatic, aesthetic improvement over the plasticky 6.5” OEM screen. Also, the nice-to-haves are indeed nice to have. That said, more thought is needed regarding how some of the menus and accompanying information are displayed (like the MUSIC and VIDEO tiles as well as the right side of the half-screen on the “OEM/NBT UI” side); not having aptX is a drawback; “dual-zone” functionality only works when you start within the “OEM/NBT UI” and go over to the “ANDROID UI” but not the other way around; and there should be a version geared to the US market with all-imperial measurements. But at this $550’ish price point, there is enough to like if you can overlook its modest imperfections.

But what if your car already has the NAV package and thus the 8.8” screen? Would I still recommend? Well, in this case, I would then NOT recommend you trade up to the 10.25” Android head unit. There are a couple of reasons. 1) The primary reason to get this screen is to modernize the look of your interior. But the 8.8” screen already looks quite sleek and getting just 13.5% extra screen real estate doesn’t seem that dramatic of a difference. 2) The other reason that those with the 6.5” OEM screen may want to upgrade is so that they can have an offline NAV program. But, those with the 8.8” screen already have an offline NAV program, so there is no added value here. 3) Finally, let’s say that you find the tablet-like interface appealing and you just really want to be able to watch a video in the car or to be able to access your favorite websites on a larger screen while you’re idling at the Kiss & Ride. Well, I think you’d be much better off purchasing an honest-to-goodness tablet like the Samsung Galaxy Tab S6 LITE (boasting a 10.4” screen size, offering 2000 x 1200 resolution, and now available for about $300). A standalone tablet would be a much better investment. Your tablet would be completely portable; your tablet would be more conducive to office-related work; your tablet would offer higher resolution; your tablet would likely include a camera; your tablet would be $250 less; buying a standalone tablet would be less burdensome than making the commitment to installing the Android head unit. As the saying goes, “if it ain’t broke…”

We’ve covered a lot of ground already. So, now let’s return to the initial focus of this blog and answer the question of “should-I-or-shouldn’t-I?. I say to all of you who still have the 6.5” OEM screen … now is the time to take a hard look at this. But to those who have the svelte 8.8” screen (factory NAV package), you’ve already got a good thing going.

If you do decide to purchase an Android head unit like this, make sure to keep an eye out for the most current version, which will have these specs: Android 10 (you’ll still find units out there for sale going back to Android 7); screen resolution of 1920 x 720 (some units only offer 1280 x 480); 4 GB RAM/64 GB ROM (some units only offer 2 and 32). And keep in mind that you’ll be very, very tempted to: purchase the anti-glare screens (add $17); possibly purchase a mobile wifi hotspot device (add $120 - $250); subscribe to a mobile wifi hotspot data plan (sprint offers the best value at $50/mo for 50GB although I’ve noticed that I consume 10-12 GB monthly); subscribe to a streaming music service (add $15’ish/mo); possibly upgrade to hi-res quality music (add $10/mo more); invest in an anti-malware/anti-virus program (add $15 - $50 per year more). This is akin to that TYCO racecar track you got for Christmas when you were a kid. It was great on the surface but then you had to keep asking your parents to buy batteries. And so it is with this Android 10 head unit with the 10.25” screen. There are things that you’ll like. But there are even more things that you’ll need to embrace.

Mod On!

Pic #1: OEM/NBT UI in "half-screen" mode.
Pic #2: "half screen" mode with back-up camera on.
Pic #3: Correct Uniden R3 speed readout / incorrect "half-screen" speedometer readout.
Pic #4: MUSIC tile menu with USB stick loaded up / plugged in.
Pic #5: Pic of glove compartment with 2 USB ports (and the Skyroam Lite mobile wifi hotspot device).
Pic #6: App Drawer arranged to my liking.
Pic #7: "pop-up" keyboard.
Pic #8: High-res capability.
Pic #9: Close-up of the AB Channel Box.
Pic #10: Pic of cockpit (phone on vent mount by driver's A-Pillar; Uniden R3; Android 10 head unit; Blackvue's DR900s Infrared Interior Camera (affixed to rear-view mirror).

[Pchew]

Fantastic write up. Must commend you on your thoroughness.

Do you know if this unit support both android auto and Apple car play?

Also, how did this do with the wife / girlfriend / non technical significant other usability test? Did they ever reach a level of frustration where they threatened to just start pushing buttons?

[Radiohead999]

Great write-up! I have just installed a 10.25" display in my F30, I am having some teething issues, but generally happy with it.

[cetvxs]

Thanks for the thorough review

[a280z]

This was an amazing review. Noticed the 8.8" screen in the wife's 2013 328i m sport was getting sun damaged with a strange line of cracks, and hazing. The PEMP 10.25 Android 10.0 nbt replacement should be here in the middle of the week, I'm planning on installing it with the AHD reverse camera this weekend using your notes, tips, and caveats. Thank you again. Remember to use that windshield reflective cover when parking outside .

[ravid007]

But the hot Buttons (1-8) are working only when you are on the iDrive/NBT screen, right?
If you are using Waze for example, they are not responding. correct?

[fe7565]

Amazing and thoroughly comprehensive pro/con write up. A "must read" for anyone planning to buy an Android HU.

[Abdulamin08]

any 8.8" android screens? for f20/f30s?

[homeryen88]

...just answering some of the previous questions.

1. I do not use Android Auto (and can't comment at all on anything Apple as I do not use their products). But, I do not think one would even need to download AA onto this 10.25" Android Head Unit (AHU). My takeaway on why AA provides benefits in general (if you otherwise owned a car where AA was promoted as one of its benefits):

a) you can have access to certain apps (like Google Maps or Spotify or other apps specifically "downloadable"/available to AA, but the choices are finite). However, with the AHU, you'll have the ability to access/download anything from the Google play store.

b) you can use talk commands via "ok Google" to send text messages (i.e. "ok Google ... send a text message to Joe") or to verbally enable calls (i.e. "ok Google ... call Joe). But, I can already do that that with my phone (an LG G8 Thinq running on Android 10)

c) there may be some other minor apps that some people use (notifications, calendar) via AA, but I don't, so I don't see any value-added in downloading AA onto the AHU.


2. Regarding use of the Hot Buttons (#1 - #8) when you are on the Android UI side ... Yes, these still work. For example, in my case, #1-#6 are designated for radio stations; #7 is designated as a short cut to call my wife via the OEM bluetooth side (as I had mentioned, I do not pair my phone to the AHU); #8 is the shortcut button to enable the AUX (thereby enabling you to hear sound from the AHU).

Thus, if you are, for example, watching YouTube (accessed via the app drawer) and want to hit one of the Hot Buttons (to instead listen to the radio or to call someone), you can do that. But what happens is that the system automatically transfers you out of the Android UI side and back into the OEM UI side thereby stopping that YouTube video (or whatever you might have been doing). Let's call this an "interruption".

If you want to resume that video, you can't just go back in one step (in the way that you can just press the Hot Button in one easy step). You'd need to first go back to the Android UI side (either by pressing the MENU button by the scroll wheel for 3 seconds or by tapping the screen); then you'd enter the app drawer; then you'd press the YouTube Icon; and then you'll be back at the point where you exited (at the point from where you left the video).

It's similar if you were, for example, returning to the point where you left WAZE or music you were streaming or a movie you were watching on the Android UI side.


3. Speaking of Waze, see below for what that looks like on this AHU. Waze "thinks" that this tablet is being held in landscape mode. So, one picture is of your programmed ride with the listed directions and without.

[asomer]

Sorry to hit up an old thread, but I'm 95% sure there's a fix for the stretch resolution. Iifc, you need to code your car in Bimmercode for the 10.25 screen. It's under Head Unit, in expert mode I believe. Once that is done, split screen & stretched images are corrected.

[Fame336]

Nice write up

[Carlife851]

Originally Posted by Pchew

Fantastic write up. Must commend you on your thoroughness.

Do you know if this unit support both android auto and Apple car play?

Also, how did this do with the wife / girlfriend / non technical significant other usability test? Did they ever reach a level of frustration where they threatened to just start pushing buttons?

now qualcomm snadgragon always has, wireless caprlay wireless android auto, before buy it, can confirm with the seller

[linkysys]

1) Do the native USB ports continue to function with the new head unit?

2) If you connect a phone with Android Auto to USB, does it automatically pair and launch or do you have to manually monkey with quickconnect or other apps?

If it works automatically when connecting the USB cable, have you tried using a wireless USB android auto dongle like AA Wireless or Hieha? I'm looking for hands free Android Auto voice commands for navigation without wires or having to touch my phone to launch quickconnect, mirroring, or any other apps.

[afadeev]

Originally Posted by linkysys

1) Do the native USB ports continue to function with the new head unit?

2) If you connect a phone with Android Auto to USB, does it automatically pair and launch or do you have to manually monkey with quickconnect or other apps?

If it works automatically when connecting the USB cable, have you tried using a wireless USB android auto dongle like AA Wireless or Hieha? I'm looking for hands free Android Auto voice commands for navigation without wires or having to touch my phone to launch quickconnect, mirroring, or any other apps.

Folks,
Has anyone had any luck getting A-Auto and/or CarPlay to work with these aftermarket devices?
Either the Autotec or Avin modules (both vendors seam to be reselling the same hardware)?

TIA,
a

[///mChris]

The built in zlink isn’t the best. I purchased a Carlinkit cpc200-ccpa. It plugs in to a usb port. You install auto kit.apk. It’s android auto and CarPlay is nearly flawless. You have to launch the android app for it to work. I wish there was a shortcut.