05-01-2013, 02:26 PM | #177 | |
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05-01-2013, 03:36 PM | #178 | |
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But I have experienced a loss in power as well and I have posted about it in the past. My solution: I just remove the tune for a couple of days then I put it back on and it feels great. Its good for about a month and half then it clearly does not feel the same again just like you described. So then I repeat and the cycle continues. Im glad to hear Im not the only one experiencing it, doesn't really bother me too much but would love to know the reason as well. I doubt its the quality of gas I usually get chevron 91 and fill it myself |
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05-01-2013, 04:01 PM | #179 | |
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05-01-2013, 04:03 PM | #180 | |
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Consider holding tight until stage 2 if you can. The ability to toggle the tune on or off from the dash is a great feature to have. There's always fun in being able to compare speed to stock with the touch of a button. But that's just my opinion. I know many are happy with afe.
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05-01-2013, 04:34 PM | #181 | |
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05-01-2013, 07:21 PM | #183 | |
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Btw you guys can turn off your tune without disconnecting it if you have the usb. Just set the map to 0 in the program and it will turn the tune off (confirmed with terry) |
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05-01-2013, 07:31 PM | #184 | |
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05-01-2013, 09:44 PM | #185 |
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So why don't the N55 people who have their BMS installed, have such issues? I haven't read any adapting issues on their threads, here or on N54tech. My car/BMS combo has worked flawlessly on default (+3psi) boost since install Feb 25.
I only use 98RON (=93AKI) fuel in my car. I will wait for S2 install before adjusting the boost. Hope you guys find a solution, be it from BMS or aFe. Cheers.
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05-02-2013, 11:48 AM | #187 | |
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Let us know how the aFE works for you
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05-02-2013, 01:45 PM | #188 | |
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05-02-2013, 04:18 PM | #190 |
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Just to chime in I had the afe scorcher in my 528i company car. It was easy to install and felt faster than before I added it. After maybe two weeks I had a engine malfunction so I removed the chip box and went to the dealership. They kept the car for a day and asked if it was tuned and seemed really suspicious. They said it had something to do with the car making too much torque and asked if I had added anything. I avoided the question and they backed off and said nothing was wrong and that they cleared the codes in the computer. So I put the chip back on and after another week the same thing came up so I decided to return it and just keep the car unmodified. I'm a little worried about going back to the dealer now I'm going to wait a few months and hope they forget about the last time. I decided to buy another car out of warranty for modifying but instead of a chip tune I'll be doing a flash tune.
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05-02-2013, 04:45 PM | #191 | |
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Now that you have removed, sold the BMS and restored your car to stock, as topcat87 asked, can you do a new 0-60 run or 2 or 3, just to create a new baseline? It would be great to get to the bottom of your issues. It is possible, your car might have a fault. It's in your best interests to asses the situation to ensure your car is 'clean' before installing the aFe. Hope it all goes well for you. Cheers
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05-02-2013, 04:49 PM | #192 | |
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05-02-2013, 05:40 PM | #193 | |
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I'm not privy to your correspondence with BMS but if you don't think 0-60 times can and will vary by 1/2 second depending on weather, traction, and fuel then I can see where someone trying to help you would start to get frustrated. 0-60 times simply have a lot of potential for variance. Based on what I've seen you post I would ask you for a log to check your boost levels to ensure they are around 19-20psi peak. Then I would tell you to try another tank of gas from a different station. If after doing both you still ran slower than expected 0-60 I'd ask you to retime with the device removed. Then at that point if things indicated that there might be a faulty unit I'd swap it out for you. BMS follows the same procedures. Perhaps you just bailed on the support too early without trying another tank of gas or sending them times with the tune removed. Anyway best of luck with the AFE. It's basically the same thing only without MAF control. As long as the DME doesn't dump timing on you then you should still run similar times to the BMS Stage1 in the low 5 second range on average when properly measured. Mike |
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05-03-2013, 06:02 AM | #194 | |
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As I said above no offense but I can see why tech support didn't work out for you. Best of luck with the AFE tune. If you wind up needing any other parts for the car down the road I'll be here to help! Mike |
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05-03-2013, 03:32 PM | #195 |
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Like EVERYTHING else in US of A, the advertised parameter/function/capability/result is something the average consumer will almost never achieve. It doesn't matter what it is: the price of a car, a weight loss program, EPA estimate, etc.
You will never get the $399 advertised for a lease. Why write $399 if that price is not attainable under any (normal) circumstances? In the same way you will never get the 4.9s advertised. Is it a lie? No. It is merely a generally accepted (legal) deception. Something like this would never work in Germany for example. A claim has to be true / has to work for a majority of customers, under average circumstances, in order to be used in advertisement. But here anything goes: lease for just $199, and when you start adding fees, taxes and shit, it skyrockets. Or 4.9s for your 328i, and when you read the fine print you'll realize you'll never achieve that. Just remember any American claim has a "padding" of up to 25 to 50% and you'll be fine
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05-03-2013, 04:26 PM | #196 | |
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05-03-2013, 06:04 PM | #197 |
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The numbers mags and tuners achieve with a proper driver are more abusive than most people are willing to do on the street.
An auto needs a 3100rpm launch with the torque converter loaded, a 6mt needs a bit of a clutch drop or side step, probably about 2500rpms. It's very easy to bog these cars, made even more of a challenge with Xdrive. No one is going to get a tuned time of sub 5 second by just matting the gas pedal, just as no one is going to nail the stock time of 5.4 if done so as well. The key, like mentioned is seeing a drop in times if done in the same testing method. If it doesn't work right any longer, no matter the tune or tuner, it doesn't work. I have faith in someones ability to accurately gauge the increase or decrease in performance. There is no gain for them to make it up or just be doing it wrong and have to sell the product and buy another.
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05-03-2013, 07:38 PM | #198 | |
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To keep things technical unlike the Stage2 which has much more input via CAN the Stage1 doesn't adapt. The same signals in produce the same signals out every time and always. That is assuming you have not triggered some over boost or intake temperature safety that would tell the tune to switch to map 0 until you restart the engine. The DME on the other hand is HIGHLY adaptive. I noticed 'VANOS' is running on 91 octane. He said he went slower at +4psi than +3psi. The DME can't adapt out boost so if its actually slower than it was a week ago I'd guess he's getting some knock retard and the DME is pulling timing. Maybe he should be running +2psi, for example, on that 91 octane. As a technical person I find it comical these guys like 'highpower' actually believe one tune that offsets the MAP/TMAP sensors is going to do something magically different than some other tune that offsets the same MAP/TMAP sensors. To do something different you need more data in via more sensor inputs or the ultimate CANbus input. Unfortunately this is not a very technical crowd. Maybe some day some engineer will buy both Stage1 tunes, bench test them, and document out any signal mapping variances. Mike |
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