[Ali Shiralian]

Originally Posted by crono06

OP, were you maintaining 120 in the left lane while everybody passed you? If that was the case, I can understand why some people would be upset.

The way I feel is that even if I'm going 120, 130, 140, whatever it may be, and I'm in the left lane, as soon as somebody comes up behind me, I should be moving to the right to let them go. The left lane is the fast/passing lane. Please don't be one of those people that feel entitled to drive in the left lane just because you're going over speed limit.

To answer your question, no, I was in the middle lane and this character kept going behind and then in front. I only used the left lane when I floored it and that was only to get rid of him. I usually avoid left lane unless I wanna pass a slow car.

[Ali Shiralian]

Originally Posted by InControl

Surprised no one suggested this to you, CHANGE THE OIL!! premature break-in causes unnecessary friction between components, some junk, let's call it metallic flakes, can end up in the oil and if you don't flush-it may adversely affect the engine.

Thank you...I will do that as I thought of it yesterday myself too

[InControl]

Originally Posted by Ali Shiralian

Thank you...I will do that as I thought of it yesterday myself too

Besides that, enjoy, rev her hard but do so smoothly when (she and you) warmed up, that's the key to longevity, and a happy marriage

[m6pwr]

I hate to appear a contrarian but there are reasons not to change the factory fill early.

If you're at all interested in the subject of motor oil, I'd recommend making the BITOG oil forum a part of your daily surfing - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/. You'll learn a lot; there are some very knowledgeable people on BITOG, some of them chemists and chemical engineers who work for oil companies as "formulators" - the guys who actually brew up the oils you may one day use in your BMW.

One of them is a guy named Doug Hillary. He's been a formulator with Castrol, and later with Mobil. When at Castrol he was part of the team that formulated Castrol TWS 10w60, the oil spec'd by BMW for the naturally aspirated M cars. Here is what Doug had to say in a BITOG article about early drains of the factory fill:

"Many modern engines have unique lubricants as their Factory fill and in some cases a special specification lubricant may be needed . . . This is for specific “bedding in” reasons and often depends on the engine’s design and certainly on its “wear face” metallurgy! People that chose to ignore the Manufacturer’s advice concerning the first oil change period and the lubricant to be used then are IMO quite foolhardy – especially if they intend to keep their vehicle for many years."

I've changed the factory fill on a BMW 335d diesel and it appeared to have a different oil than the service fill and maybe the type of unique oil that Hillary was talking about. The service fill for BMW diesels is a Castrol Edge Professional oil. The oil that came out in the factory fill appeared to be a FUCHS oil, its unique trademark being a lack of zinc carrier for the anti-wear phosphates. In Europe, FUCHS is known as ""FUCHS . . . The Factory Fill Specialist", and they are specialists in formulating unique oils for many of the European oem's.

I have no idea if the factory fill for the N20 or N55 is a special break-in oil, but it just may be, and one intended to be run for the first full 10k miles. Plus, as most others have indicated in this thread, your brief run to redline almost certainly did no harm, and if it did changing the oil early won't change that one bit.

[chiefneil]

I changed my break-in oil at 4.6k and sent a sample in for analysis. The report didn't note anything special/odd about the oil. However it did note that there was a surprisingly low amount of metal in the oil, actually at or below averages for non break-in oil. It also noted that that the oil was probably suitable for use up to 10k but they'd recommend another sample at higher mileage.

My takeaway was that an early change wasn't necessary (as my SA had been swearing up and down) and ~10k changes will be fine.

This is for my '14 335i.

[Ali Shiralian]

Originally Posted by m6pwr

I hate to appear a contrarian but there are reasons not to change the factory fill early.

If you're at all interested in the subject of motor oil, I'd recommend making the BITOG oil forum a part of your daily surfing - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/. You'll learn a lot; there are some very knowledgeable people on BITOG, some of them chemists and chemical engineers who work for oil companies as "formulators" - the guys who actually brew up the oils you may one day use in your BMW.

One of them is a guy named Doug Hillary. He's been a formulator with Castrol, and later with Mobil. When at Castrol he was part of the team that formulated Castrol TWS 10w60, the oil spec'd by BMW for the naturally aspirated M cars. Here is what Doug had to say in a BITOG article about early drains of the factory fill:


"Many modern engines have unique lubricants as their Factory fill and in some cases a special specification lubricant may be needed . . . This is for specific “bedding in” reasons and often depends on the engine’s design and certainly on its “wear face” metallurgy! People that chose to ignore the Manufacturer’s advice concerning the first oil change period and the lubricant to be used then are IMO quite foolhardy – especially if they intend to keep their vehicle for many years."

I've changed the factory fill on a BMW 335d diesel and it appeared to have a different oil than the service fill and maybe the type of unique oil that Hillary was talking about. The service fill for BMW diesels is a Castrol Edge Professional oil. The oil that came out in the factory fill appeared to be a FUCHS oil, its unique trademark being a lack of zinc carrier for the anti-wear phosphates. In Europe, FUCHS is known as ""FUCHS . . . The Factory Fill Specialist", and they are specialists in formulating unique oils for many of the European oem's.

I have no idea if the factory fill for the N20 or N55 is a special break-in oil, but it just may be, and one intended to be run for the first full 10k miles. Plus, as most others have indicated in this thread, your brief run to redline almost certainly did no harm, and if it did changing the oil early won't change that one bit.

Great advice, thank you

[Ali Shiralian]

Originally Posted by InControl

Besides that, enjoy, rev her hard but do so smoothly when (she and you) warmed up, that's the key to longevity, and a happy marriage

She won't do anything unless warmed up...

[Fille]

Originally Posted by ft1330

Not sure why you're calling me dumb when it's not my fucking choice to shift at redline, but the AT's. Re-read my post and you'll see that I agree it should shift earlier when flooring it. Are you telling me I shouldn't floor it when trying to accelerate fast? Maybe you have a pedal stop behind your accelerator so it doesn't go to redline? lol... Oh no wait you have the 320d, do you even have a redline???

Whoah chill out

What I meant was simply that it is dumb to redline something when the peak power is way before that point, which makes BMW dumb, NOT you for programming the AT that way. It's the same with the 320d btw, it revs pretty much to redline (5000 rpm) even though the peak power is 4k. After 4k literally nothing happens lol, stupid BMW...

[tna3]

I've been redlining my car 4 to 5x a week for the past 7 years. Never had a problem with respect to this. People used to drive on the autobahn full throttle for hours at a time back in the day when speed limits were less restrictive. With proper maintenance engines are built for this type of use.

[BimmerBoomer]

I redline mine on wide open throttle in Sport+ and the shifter to the left on ramps most days. I thought everyone did this.

[Ali Shiralian]

Originally Posted by BimmerBoomer

I redline mine on wide open throttle in Sport+ and the shifter to the left on ramps most days. I thought everyone did this.

Lol, yeah I've been doing a lot of this lately, seems like I just can't drive moderately with this car at all

[Kevin M]

Engine is probably toast.

[Carnook]

Originally Posted by Fille

Whoah chill out

What I meant was simply that it is dumb to redline something when the peak power is way before that point, which makes BMW dumb, NOT you for programming the AT that way. It's the same with the 320d btw, it revs pretty much to redline (5000 rpm) even though the peak power is 4k. After 4k literally nothing happens lol, stupid BMW...

BMW knows what they are doing.