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      01-17-2014, 02:45 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Sparkle View Post
now you're just being ridiculous...
That was the entire purpose of my statement.
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      01-17-2014, 05:07 PM   #24
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I would also bet on 5W-30 or similar oil, and some sort of a 1,200 break in service being called for.
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      01-17-2014, 06:38 PM   #25
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It will have the 1200 mile break in service. The 1M did and it had the same N54 engine that all the other 35i cars had.
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      01-17-2014, 07:48 PM   #26
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Um. This is going to be a 5w30 car.
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      01-23-2014, 03:08 PM   #27
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Break-in period of new F8x

Will it be the same as the e9x M3? from what I understand break-in period means you should not go high in the rpm range and should not press hard on the breaks for the first 1200 miles, correct?

Kind of sucks for us people doing ED or is there a way around it?
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      01-23-2014, 03:11 PM   #28
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It'll likely be the same as it has always been.
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      01-23-2014, 03:11 PM   #29
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Not an NA engine, its more similar the the N54/55 which has no break in period.

Soooo I'm assuming let loose!
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      01-23-2014, 03:14 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markeh View Post
Not an NA engine, its more similar the the N54/55 which has no break in period.

Soooo I'm assuming let loose!
Huh? EVERY modern ///M car has a break-in period. That has always been the case. The tolerances are very different than an N54/55.
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      01-23-2014, 03:18 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sedan_Clan View Post
Huh? EVERY modern ///M car has a break-in period. That has always been the case. The tolerances are very different than an N54/55.
Never been a fan to listening to any of that on any car but thats just me lol
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      01-23-2014, 03:20 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markeh View Post
Not an NA engine, its more similar the the N54/55 which has no break in period.

Soooo I'm assuming let loose!
I'm pretty sure my N54 had a break in period. 1200 miles if I recall correctly.
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      01-23-2014, 03:21 PM   #33
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Supposed to drive it hard in the first 1200 miles. Best way to break it in!
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      01-23-2014, 03:23 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonymiabmw View Post
Supposed to drive it hard in the first 1200 miles. Best way to break it in!
Warm it up then rev it up!

It will be great for euro delivery to break it on the unlimited speed sections and on the ring / at spa
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      01-23-2014, 03:26 PM   #35
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My X3 3.5 with twin scroll turbo had a 1200 mile break-in. It's an N55.
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      01-23-2014, 03:27 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonymiabmw View Post
Supposed to drive it hard in the first 1200 miles. Best way to break it in!
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicknaz View Post
Warm it up then rev it up!

It will be great for euro delivery to break it on the unlimited speed sections and on the ring / at spa
I thought it was the opposite...?
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      01-23-2014, 03:29 PM   #37
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Break-in is mostly about piston ring seating and slipping friction surfaces seating as well and not glazing over (brakes, clutches). This applies to all vehicles.

It was also about keeping varying speeds so the cylinders broke in evenly.

A boosted vehicle, some theorize, will seat the piston rings more quickly due to the higher pressure. Nevertheless, the above is what it's about.

M vehicles have long had a factory recommended set of lubricant changes at 1200 miles. The belief being that break-in oil is incredibly filthy oil loaded with fine metals and assembly lube which has dissolved into the oil, and at 1200 miles the car is broken in (all metal filings are into the oil) so let's get it out of there before you go beat on the car as it was meant to be beaten on.

So this is a long way for me to say: Yes, I'm sure the new M3/m4 will have the same break-in
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      01-23-2014, 03:35 PM   #38
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2,000km.. then fluid changes. Whatever it says, if I were you, I'd do under 4500rpm for 2,000km and then engine/trans/diff fluids. Easy enough to do, and you'll be surprised what it looks like.

I'm on my fourth factory-turbo'ed car. Lots of little metal particulates in the oil after break-in. Regardless, it's a very expensive car and the fluid's cheap. Just do it.
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      01-23-2014, 03:36 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeFromPA
Break-in is mostly about piston ring seating and slipping friction surfaces seating as well and not glazing over (brakes, clutches). This applies to all vehicles.

It was also about keeping varying speeds so the cylinders broke in evenly.

A boosted vehicle, some theorize, will seat the piston rings more quickly due to the higher pressure. Nevertheless, the above is what it's about.

M vehicles have long had a factory recommended set of lubricant changes at 1200 miles. The belief being that break-in oil is incredibly filthy oil loaded with fine metals and assembly lube which has dissolved into the oil, and at 1200 miles the car is broken in (all metal filings are into the oil) so let's get it out of there before you go beat on the car as it was meant to be beaten on.

So this is a long way for me to say: Yes, I'm sure the new M3/m4 will have the same break-in
"We must achieve a happy medium where we are pushing on the ring hard enough to wear it in but not hard enough to generate enough heat to cause glazing. Once again, if glazing should occur, the only remedy is to remove the effected cylinder, re-hone it and replace the piston rings and start the whole process over again.

We asked four top motorcycle engine builders what they do to ensure peak power output and optimum engine life. Here is a capsulation of their responses.
"If the wrong type of oil is used initially, or the break-in is too easy, rings and cylinders could (read will) glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loading to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but make sure you don't lug or overheat the engine. Use high quality, low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight), no synthetics, too slippery. If synthetics are used during initial break in the rings are sure to glaze over."

Makes sense
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      01-23-2014, 03:58 PM   #40
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My break in period will be when/if I get the keys in Welt. Will drive it like I stole it.
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      01-23-2014, 04:02 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mister2d View Post
My break in period will be when/if I get the keys in Welt. Will drive it like I stole it.
This... Well to an extent but I pretty much drive my e90 hard and then added jb4 at 600 miles and let it rip.
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      01-23-2014, 04:47 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mister2d View Post
My break in period will be when/if I get the keys in Welt. Will drive it like I stole it.
...if there is no clause in the warranty statement which specifies that you shall have to drive like a little bish for the first xxxx miles.
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      01-23-2014, 05:23 PM   #43
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Plan to do ED myself as well. Basically im planning to drive the 2000km in Germany, do the 1st break in service there and then straight on to the Nurburgring!
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      01-23-2014, 05:24 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeFromPA View Post
Break-in is mostly about piston ring seating and slipping friction surfaces seating as well and not glazing over (brakes, clutches). This applies to all vehicles.

It was also about keeping varying speeds so the cylinders broke in evenly.

A boosted vehicle, some theorize, will seat the piston rings more quickly due to the higher pressure. Nevertheless, the above is what it's about.

M vehicles have long had a factory recommended set of lubricant changes at 1200 miles. The belief being that break-in oil is incredibly filthy oil loaded with fine metals and assembly lube which has dissolved into the oil, and at 1200 miles the car is broken in (all metal filings are into the oil) so let's get it out of there before you go beat on the car as it was meant to be beaten on.

So this is a long way for me to say: Yes, I'm sure the new M3/m4 will have the same break-in
You state this with such authority. How do you know it?

Modern engines in this day and age are broken in from day 1. It takes very little to no time to seat the moly rings. The rest of the surfaces (cam, crank, rods) run on hydrodynamic oil waves and don't actually contact any metal surface. The engine is good to go from the day you fire it up. Most modern cars don't even require a break-in oil change. The AMG engines for example don't.

Tires certainly need a little break-in to get rid of casting detritus. Same is true for brakes and clutches - the surfaces need to meet and wear in.

What I keep reading is that the rear differential is the reason BMW has the 1200 mile break-in, requiring varying load and a limited top speed. The reasons I've read are that the differential actually has teeth sliding over other teeth, unlike in transmissions where they typically use involute gears. Because of this sliding, high spots etc are vulnerable in early days to excessive heat from high speed or high loads, which can change the properties of the metal. Proper wear and seating results in a surface which is mated and hard for the life of the car.

I'll note that AMG cars require a differential fluid change early, well before any oil change.

So I think your info about metal particles in the break-in oil is basically no longer true.

Pat
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