[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by Youngjnr

Interesting I'll probably experiment with a sealed box

There's no need to experiment, using loudspeaker modeling software like WinISD one can accurately predict how any driver and box combination will work. Cabin gain can be predicted as well.

[Youngjnr]

Are there any of you out there who have upgraded your cars audio system using a DSP which you can tune via laptop or phone and are they worth the money spent on them. Not really sure which one to buy so I don't want to buy one if it's not going to really improve my sound quality

[Billfitz]

DSP is well worth it, if you can find one that will work. There are no plug and play options for BMW.

[m_michael]

Yes. Checkout the Bimmertech amp if you have the standard HiFi system. It is plug-and-play and has very advanced DSP. Do a search in this forum too, lots of great info on that amp.

[Billfitz]

The Bimmertech isn't a stand alone DSP, it's an amp that has DSP. Considering that the OP just installed an amp I doubt he wants to replace it. He also has the base audio system, which AFAIK won't work with the Bimmertech amp.

[JimmyDee]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

DSP is well worth it, if you can find one that will work. There are no plug and play options for BMW.

I believe the OP said that he had a base stereo, in which case he could use any DSP with speaker level inputs.
There are lots of good DSP options: a good budget one is the Dayton Audio DSP-408. MiniDSP has some nice ones too for decent price.
If you want to spend some money, and get a really good one, then look at a; Mosconi or a Helix.

As far as 'plug and play': the mObridge DA3 is a direct plug into the fiber optic MOST cable, and has an 8 channel DSP built in.
I have it on my system, except I bypass the built-in DSP, and feed it into a separate Helix DSP-Pro MkII via Toslink fiber cable.

[Youngjnr]

I have seen the bimmertech amp but thats correct I'm not looking to replace my amps I've just Installed just looking for a standalone option but I will have a look at the ones been mentioned thanks

[Youngjnr]

Originally Posted by JimmyDee

I believe the OP said that he had a base stereo, in which case he could use any DSP with speaker level inputs.
There are lots of good DSP options: a good budget one is the Dayton Audio DSP-408. MiniDSP has some nice ones too for decent price.
If you want to spend some money, and get a really good one, then look at a; Mosconi or a Helix.

As far as 'plug and play': the mObridge DA3 is a direct plug into the fiber optic MOST cable, and has an 8 channel DSP built in.
I have it on my system, except I bypass the built-in DSP, and feed it into a separate Helix DSP-Pro MkII via Toslink fiber cable.

Just out of curiosity why do you bypass your first dsp then go to another dsp do they not do the same thing

[JimmyDee]

Originally Posted by Youngjnr

Just out of curiosity why do you bypass your first dsp then go to another dsp do they not do the same thing

Technically; yes, they do the same thing. But the Helix DSP is far superior... best of the best.

The mObridge DA3 will certainly do everything you need it to do, as far as a DSP goes... but the Helix is in another league.
With that said; the Helix also takes a fair bit more experience and skill to tune properly.

Plus, my system is fully active, so I need 11 channels of DSP processing (one channel per speaker), and the DA3 is only an 8 channel.
I use all 10 channels on the Helix, and then use one channel from the DA3 for the sub processing.

[tonksie93]

If i buy a DSP like a Dayton Audio DSP-408 will it automatically detect the headunits EQ and flatten it or is that something i would have to do manually?

[Billfitz]

You'd have to code out the head unit EQ, if that's possible, which I can't say. This assumes that there is any pre-EQ in the head unit, which I also can't say.

[tonksie93]

Taken from technics website:

“The Stereo 2/4 harness requires a 4ch amp with high level inputs and signal sensing, component speakers than can lower the built-in treble boost of the OEM signal or a DSP unit with signal sensing.”

[dennyxp3]

hiii, i have a BMW F30 MY 2013 328i with HK audio system installed from the factory and i need to upgrade by adding more power but having problem with finding the full signal bandwith from the OEM HK Power, i have RTA's the front speaker and the signal is doen't fit my needs ( it's only 100 Hz - 20 KHz ) which is not flat at all, does anyone have any solution ?
thanks

[Billfitz]

100-20kHz is all that the door speakers are supposed to handle. Below 100Hz is covered by the under seat woofers.

[Youngjnr]

Still need help has anyone out there got subs in there car and feel it's rattling it to pieces it sounds horrible on the outside because the boot is sealed there has to be one person that has cut through the ski hole to to create more bass any info appreciated

[YoitsTmac]

Originally Posted by Youngjnr

just Installed this so I have volume control of the subs in the boot works perfectly I also used a oem bmw volume control knob from my e90 headunit so it looks more oem

Where can I get a volume knob like this?

[Falafellover]

Hi guys. Is it possible to install the match up 7bmw in a base audio bmw? If yes what harness do I need. Got one very cheap, 100£.

[FastFrog]

Hi,
I did it, it is possible.
Easiest way to do it is to use the 2 following harnesses: Match pp-iso 5 (which is the 5 meters long harness going from the front to the trunk of the car) and the small PP-AC 13a, which connects on the quadlock connector behinds the head unit. Ref below:
https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/m...esses/pp-iso-5
https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/m...sses/pp-ac-13a
Keep in mind that this won't provide the connection from the amp to the subwoofers. This requires an additional (and somewhat thicker) cable to route from the amp to the said underseat subs.

(In my case, I didn't want to use those harnesses because I already had a quadlock connector for the MMI screen and didn't want to pile them up. So I rewired everything from the head unit high level outputs, front and rear, that I picked respectively from the subwoofer connector and behind the I've posted a thorough thread about this on another forum but it's in French, although pictures speaks for themselves

https://www.ma-bmw.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=58340
However, some other guy on this thread did the double-quadlock thing, with no issues)

[Falafellover]

Originally Posted by FastFrog

Hi,
I did it, it is possible.
Easiest way to do it is to use the 2 following harnesses: Match pp-iso 5 (which is the 5 meters long harness going from the front to the trunk of the car) and the small PP-AC 13a, which connects on the quadlock connector behinds the head unit. Ref below:
https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/m...esses/pp-iso-5
https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/m...sses/pp-ac-13a
Keep in mind that this won't provide the connection from the amp to the subwoofers. This requires an additional (and somewhat thicker) cable to route from the amp to the said underseat subs.

(In my case, I didn't want to use those harnesses because I already had a quadlock connector for the MMI screen and didn't want to pile them up. So I rewired everything from the head unit high level outputs, front and rear, that I picked respectively from the subwoofer connector and behind the I've posted a thorough thread about this on another forum but it's in French, although pictures speaks for themselves

https://www.ma-bmw.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=58340
However, some other guy on this thread did the double-quadlock thing, with no issues)

Thanks mate! I successfully installed the 7BMW even tho auidofisher said it couldn't be done 😅. I bought the harnesses u mentioned and it works. Now I only need to wire the subs. Bought the Match up subs but I may sell them again and buy the Earthquake, they seems to be better.

[FastFrog]

Nice, congrats.

I see that you are located in Denmark, turns out that when I was looking up for Earthquake sub, I found a seller on eBay in Denmark! www.ebay.fr/itm/282361687894
(I didn't contact him so take that for what it's worth)

[Falafellover]

Originally Posted by FastFrog

Nice, congrats.

I see that you are located in Denmark, turns out that when I was looking up for Earthquake sub, I found a seller on eBay in Denmark! www.ebay.fr/itm/282361687894
(I didn't contact him so take that for what it's worth)

Nice! Thank u, I have contacted him 👍👍 about those cables for wiring the subs, how thick should they be? 😁

[Billfitz]

150w into 2 ohms is 9 amperes of current. 14 gauge/1.6mm is plenty to handle that.