[dws199]

Originally Posted by hagncola

As far as i know, no. It seems the bluetooth connection of the OEM iDrive "steals" the voice button. You can use "hey siri / hey google" or long press the idrive controller. Maybe you give a try for calls with the mmi box and use the auto calibrate option during a call (ex. mailbox) and use a litte bit louder volume. Change the volume -/+ as long as the result from the auto calibrate is 100 %.

Works for me without issue (no echo) since weeks, never used OEM bluetooth again.

The only point, you can not use the shortcuts 1 to 8 for phone numbers and some phone functions on the cluser.

Thanks for your response, I didn't realise that I could long press the idrive controller instead, I have tried that and it works fine! So I think I'll still with that option, many thanks

[Migz71]

Originally Posted by Nath4n

Anybody has FW update v1.7.x for Android B2?



Here you go:
https://mega.nz/file/61IQTDqJ#cJ_ESk...fCQypaHzBSineY

But to be honest, after I updated the MCU with this, my car controls both the MMI as well as car's system at the same time no matter what is on the screen, soooo...

This is not version 1.7x update its just a mcu update. Is there a 1.7x update out for the Andream mmi's yet? Cheers

[hagncola]

Originally Posted by Chris567

I also have a problem with the volume over BT. Music volume is fine when playing by itself. Speech (eg driving directions) are fine when playing by themselves. But when music is on and speech is on both play at a low volume. In AUX it works fine -- the music becomes faint and speech plays at regular volume when both happen; but this isn't happening with BT. I emailed Roadtop and they were researching it.

If you on the OEM interface with full bluetooth connecten and do the same direct on the phone (music with navigation) i think you have the same audio issue ?

For my opinion, if full bluetooth is used, the mmi interface shows only the picture and does not take care on any sound because it´s connected to OEM. I think there is no possibility to change.

[hagncola]

Originally Posted by muniz_ri

You are correct. The mmi sends the resolution/aspect ratio and dpi ("density") values to the phone. The problem with all of the mmi's, except Bimmertech's, is that they are sending the same resolution value for both 8.8" and 10.2" screen, i.e. 1280x480. This is why the display appears stretched on 10.2" screens. Bimmertech's mmi sends a resolution of 1280x480 for the 8.8" screen and 1440x540 for the 10.2" screen.

As a side note, the dpi values change the size of the screen elements and they also trigger changes in the layout. For example, in the attached pic the eta bar at the bottom is displayed much smaller than usual after increasing the dpi on my Carlinkit unit.

Maybe dip switch 1,2,3 and 4 are needed


6.5 inch:
11000000
8.8/10.25 inch:
11100000
tip:
If the installed car model screen is 10.25inch, please use dip switch code 1111
0000 first

[ToniCipriani]

Originally Posted by LOLMEE

Road Top unit cant connect again Android Auto it appears a message saying .

Android Auto cannot connect right now
When its safe to do so
Please check Android Phone

It worked last days but now its dosnt connect to it. Wireless and bluethoot works

I get the same message on one of my phones, one running Android 11. Another running Android 14 connects fine most of the time. Sometimes it gets stuck on the waiting on device screen, I have to cycle my ignition, then it starts working.

Trying to get this sorted out with the Aliexpress seller but not proving too helpful, and Road Top themselves won't help me (via the WhatsApp number).

[ToniCipriani]

Originally Posted by sbrook02

The dark/light mode switching of the maps is not based on day light, but on the car headlight status. If the headlight is on, the maps will be displayed in dark mode even if it's during the day. If you car's headlight mode is automatic, then the map switching is automatic as well.

This didn't seem to work for me. I drove one night and the screen dazzled me with a daytime map. Is there a setting for this on the box?

The closest I found was an "Auto Carplay Light/Dark Mode", but I'm using Android Auto.

[ToniCipriani]

Originally Posted by ToniCipriani

So I just finished installing the Road Top box on my car with HU_ENTRY, got the "CIC High 6-pin" variant, which turns out to be just the NBT version.

So far everything seems to work out of the box, audio passthrough works through the quadlock and didn't need to use the Aux Cable, even microphone seems to all work (I couldn't confirm whether it was pulling audio from the phone or the car's mic, though).

I'm primarily using this for Wireless Android Auto, however connectivity seems a bit finnicky. Android Auto starts fine on my primary phone (Motorola ThinkPhone with Android 14), but refuses to start on my backup (Motorola One Hyper with Android 11). It connects to Bluetooth and Wi-Fi, but when Android tries to start, either I get stuck on the waiting for device to connect screen or I get "failed to recognize device". Haven't tried wired Android Auto though. Phone tries to reconnect via Bluetooth and Wi-Fi and seems to keep looping on that.

Furthermore, I'm noticing if I don't start the car and just the radio, Android Auto doesn't seem to want to connect either. When I start Android Auto when the car is off it prompts me to stop YouTube (the app on the box, not my phone), but then I also get stuck on the waiting on device screen when this happens.

Anyone seen something similar?

So after some more testing, It's still not working perfectly, but I'm finding ways to workaround this:

- If the car's ignition is on and it doesn't connect, opening the YouTube or Autolink app to force Android Auto to quit, then re-opening Android Auto seems to fix it. This seem to happen if the MMI box only recently disconnected your phone, e.g. if you just stopped the car to go into a store to buy something and get back into the car.
- In "low power mode" (i.e. if the car is completely off and you press the radio knob to turn on), Bluetooth doesn't seem to want to stay connected. Holding the Back button would reboot the box usually fixes it. Also in this mode, for whatever reason, the YouTube app seems to auto start.

[ToniCipriani]

Originally Posted by fe7565

My Carlinkit did that. My Road Top (Pangolin brand offshoot) does not. Must be a firmware issue. Just to make sure, may want to go through the pain of completely erasing the Bluetooth setup in the OEM head unit and in the MMI and redo them again.

Question: is your phone with you when you are out of the car for a short time? Ad if yes, are you far enough from the car to break the bluetooth and/or wifi connection?

Edit: I think the reason it reconnects fine after a longer time is because the car goes to sleep and powers down the MMI as well...breaking all connections. When you enter the car again, it reboots from scratch and connects OK according to the designed MMI protocol sequence.

But, when you only leave for a short time but far enough to break the bluetooth and wifi connections while the MMI still stays powered up...the MMI's internal software protocol may not connect back to the bluetooth and/or wifi automatically. That's because the Chinese clowns that designed the software did not properly test for all situations. And they did not make the source code available in an open source format so people can fix it. Quality is not the #1 priority when you have enough dumbasses (like me) to buy their half-ass products.

One thing that could be done is to do some tests to confirm if the bluetooth and/or the wifi loss leads to a "no-reconnect" problem in all cases. Since we cannot get into the MMI firmware (I think Firefly1337 managed to hack it in the early versions) to fix the crap MMI coding, instead could use an Arduino or else to detect when the bluetooth and/or the wifi is disconnected from the MMI and then force a reboot of the MMI which will also fire up the re-connect-protocol next time it detects your phone in range.

This is the exact problem I'm having with mine right now, ironically mine is a RoadTop box.

I'm having a hard time explaining this to the seller though.

[fe7565]

Originally Posted by ToniCipriani

This is the exact problem I'm having with mine right now, ironically mine is a RoadTop box.

I'm having a hard time explaining this to the seller though.

Try the latest CUST Version 176 that was posted here some 20 pages back. It seems to re-start (sort of) CarPlay when losing the binding. It's not rebooting MMI, just CarPLay.

[ToniCipriani]

Originally Posted by fe7565

Try the latest CUST Version 176 that was posted here some 20 pages back. It seems to re-start (sort of) CarPlay when losing the binding. It's not rebooting MMI, just CarPLay.

Mine currently says BR504... seems like I have different hardware?

The MCU version does match the one mentioned a few times here.

[fe7565]

Originally Posted by ToniCipriani

Mine currently says BR504... seems like I have different hardware?

The MCU version does match the one mentioned a few times here.

Yes, I don’t recognize that firmware. If you install Road Top firmware it will probably brick it.

[ToniCipriani]

Originally Posted by fe7565

Yes, I don’t recognize that firmware. If you install Road Top firmware it will probably brick it.

Yeah, I'll try a few more times with the seller, got a few more hours before the payment is confirmed on Ali.

The number format seems to match a Road Top B model though, just that the serial is a huge jump. Definitely not trying any flashing at the moment unless the seller gives me one.

[Captain Buumer]

If anyone got a clue would be very helpful.
I've read most of the thread and don't know how to get the mic working (Everything else works perfect).

RoadTop MMI
Retrofitted CIC e90 (not the high version).
no combox/mulf/ulf.

Most users have Combox but i don't so it seems like something is different.

i checked that the mic1 comes from the quadlock into the 2.5mm plug.
From 2.5mm plug i already put the harness that leads to the roof (where the microphone is supposed to be).
I bought the OEM microphone and connected to the mic harness (DIP switch 7 set to ON) - doesn't work.
I tried with the aftermarket mic (DIP switch 7 set to OFF) - doesn't work.

I don't quite understand does the MMI expect the OEM radio MIC to work?
I have no such function from CIC. Can't even verify if mic works since the button does nothing while in CIC.
When made phone call to my other phone MIC indeed does not work. I tried all possible combinations and its 100% not getting mic input.

Mic1 does not do anything so far.
Should i add new wiring to Mic2 pins?

I even tried coding the microphone.
MICROPHONE_0A
no_microphone -> one_mic_under_car_roof

Still does not work with OEM or aftermarket mic.

API_Type - None (currently set)
mulf2_high
combox
inbox_parrot (should i try this?)
inbox_microsoft

A2DP_PROFILE - nicht_aktiv (currently set)
aktiv (should i try this?)

DATACOM_INTERFACE - tcu_mulf (currently set)
combox
inbox (should i try this?)

PHONE_RSE - nicht_aktiv (currently set)
aktiv (should i try this?)

Anyone without combox has gotten the mic to work?
How did you manage to do it.

Do i need to activate Voice Control FSC (it's retrofitted and probably is missing this one)?
If so then it looks like i still need to script activate CIC (since it's only .C10 and not C1A).
Something i was hoping don't have to do with this MMI kit since it should have it's own microphone input like 95% other aftermarket integration kits.

Which means i need to add ethernet pins to ODB2 to gain FTP access to CIC.
Then i got to manually modify the startup file to create empty files that grant all FSCs.

Dang. Quite many steps just to get the damned microphone to work.

What if mic still doesn't work after i script activate CIC?
Is it even possible without Combox?

[SoulCycles]

I've just instelled an Andream mmi box in my bmw i3s. At firts it seamed to work fine. Got in to the setup menu and connected my phone (samsung s21 ultra) but then it goes in to a loop; from the main setup, exit takes me bak to drive, long menu press and im back at the main setup and so on, and so on...
How to get to the android auto interface?

[Migz71]

Originally Posted by hagncola

Maybe dip switch 1,2,3 and 4 are needed


6.5 inch:
11000000
8.8/10.25 inch:
11100000
tip:
If the installed car model screen is 10.25inch, please use dip switch code 1111
0000 first

Hi mate tried this but after using these settings can't get back to bmw idrive menu?

[adam1942]

Brilliant thread all. Just a heads up I bought this "Ninetom" version from Amazon as it was down to £200 on a flash sale.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09V7NBY...roduct_details

(I believe this is actually RoadTop because if you look at the Ninetom Facebook page it says contact is via Sales@roadtop.com https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100084784101561)

If it helps anyone the code for upgrades seems to be '8032'.

Also the version has only started to pop up recently so it must be very up to date;



I know I'm driving a Mini but does anyone know how to get the MMI to automatically open? Mine seems to revert back to idrive each time I start the car.

[hagncola]

Originally Posted by Migz71

Hi mate tried this but after using these settings can't get back to bmw idrive menu?

OK, war only a hint in the manual and a try.

[ADHD]

Originally Posted by adam1942

Brilliant thread all. Just a heads up I bought this "Ninetom" version from Amazon as it was down to £200 on a flash sale.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09V7NBY...roduct_details

(I believe this is actually RoadTop because if you look at the Ninetom Facebook page it says contact is via Sales@roadtop.com https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100084784101561)

If it helps anyone the code for upgrades seems to be '8032'.

Also the version has only started to pop up recently so it must be very up to date;



I know I'm driving a Mini but does anyone know how to get the MMI to automatically open? Mine seems to revert back to idrive each time I start the car.

My roadtop manual doesnt have a MINI option but its either
"Long press Menu for 3 sec" or "Long Press the C button for 3 sec" according to Roadtop manual..

[adam1942]

Thank you - I was able to switch over manually but it wasn't automatically changing from MMI to Andriod Auto / Car Play - turns out I'm just impatient. I gave I just started driving the next time I got in the car and it flipped to AA anyway. Thanks for the response

[eltech]

The Japanese have an interesting version of the device:
https://www.a-tack.net/products/expand/

[ToniCipriani]

Originally Posted by LOLMEE

Road Top unit cant connect again Android Auto it appears a message saying .

Android Auto cannot connect right now
When its safe to do so
Please check Android Phone

It worked last days but now its dosnt connect to it. Wireless and bluethoot works

I found a workaround to this: when it does this, open the Autolink or YouTube app (it'll prompt you to stop Android Auto), quit that app then open Android Auto again. Then connect your phone via Bluetooth again. You should see a Bluetooth icon and the Android Auto icon go from gray to blue.

I tried to get RoadTop to give me a firmware update to fix this, but they stopped responding to me on Aliexpress and told me to go away on Whatsapp.. so I'm not sure about this "great service" some here have mentioned.

[NYAWE60]

Originally Posted by MJBO

I updated my MCU to version 21.9.13.122 using this file from the first post and coding works normally again:

https://mega.nz/file/OoV3hIBA#WuPXhS...jaJlD8__ul0Ddk

I just picked up an F15 X5 50i and I’m almost certain it has this unit installed. I’m having issues with the connection where it recognizes my iPhone for wireless CarPlay but no audio is produced. When I unpair the CarPlay feature from my iPhone’s Bluetooth menu and use the Bluetooth audio connected just to the native BMW system, it works but I miss all the features of CarPlay.

Oddly enough it works randomly sometimes, I would say 1 in every 10 instances. Even when I hardwire my phone via USB, it does the same thing. It’ll pick up CarPlay but won’t produce audio. I don’t know what to do, I’d really like for it to work. The fact that it works sometimes is enough to make me believe there’s something that can be done to get it to work permanently. I suppose I could go awol and just rip the whole thing out and buy an entirely new solution but I feel like that’s overkill.

If anyone has any suggestions please let me know.