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      03-14-2015, 01:20 AM   #243
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Try and push in and then turn (like a safety lid on a medicine bottle). DO NOT TOUCH THE BULBS DIRECTLY
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      07-01-2015, 11:57 PM   #244
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Just received my 50W amber cree LED's from Horizon (UK vendor) today. Took a little bit for them to arrive and a bit more expensive than some of the other options I'm seeing on the threads, but definitely worth the wait and money. They're much brighter than the incandescent bulbs, and the instant ON/OFF function of the bulbs is a huge improvement. They look great! I'll definitely be ordering some red ones for the rear turn signals, and then maybe for the brake lights and reverse lights later on.

Install was actually easier than I had expected, just popped off the little cut-out in front of the wheels and had direct access to the indicator bulbs. Unfortunately, I didn't realize this until I had already removed some screws on the driver side and tried to peel back the fender lining to get to the indicators. After knowing that, the passenger side literally took like 30 seconds to switch out!
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      07-15-2015, 08:44 PM   #245
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Here are my led turn signals. Search out motoring max on eBay. $50-60 a pair. I went with amber front and rear. No problems at all.


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      07-15-2015, 09:16 PM   #246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjon400 View Post
Here are my led turn signals. Search out motoring max on eBay. $50-60 a pair. I went with amber front and rear. No problems at all.


No need of coding? How about some flickering during start-up and every few minutes?
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      07-16-2015, 09:47 AM   #247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M47 View Post
No need of coding? How about some flickering during start-up and every few minutes?
You will definitely need to perform coding even on CANBUS error-free bulbs. The reason for this, as is probably explained on numerous other LED bulbs replacement threads, is because LEDs draw far less current and power than normal incandescents. On the normal bulbs, the car sends a little pulse of current during start-up and every few minutes when driving, to check that the bulb is still working. This doesn't cause the incandescent to light up because it needs more current than what the car's pulse is giving it; however with LEDs, it causes them to flicker rapidly whenever the pulse is sent and that needs to be coded out.

Using E-Sys, the codes that need to be changed for the front two turn signals in are:
(For left bulb)
FEM_BODY 3061 FRA_V_L_KALTUEBERWACHUNG aktiv --> nicht_aktiv
FEM_BODY 3061 FRA_V_L_WARMUEBERWACHUNG aktiv --> nicht_aktiv
FEM_BODY 3061 FRA_V_L_IS_LED nicht_aktiv --> aktiv
(For right bulb)
FEM_BODY 3061 FRA_V_R_KALTUEBERWACHUNG aktiv --> nicht_aktiv
FEM_BODY 3061 FRA_V_R_WARMUEBERWACHUNG aktiv --> nicht_aktiv
FEM_BODY 3061 FRA_V_R_IS_LED nicht_aktiv --> aktiv
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      07-16-2015, 11:15 AM   #248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M47
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjon400 View Post
Here are my led turn signals. Search out motoring max on eBay. $50-60 a pair. I went with amber front and rear. No problems at all.


No need of coding? How about some flickering during start-up and every few minutes?
Just installed em. That's it. Nothing seems to be going wrong.
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      07-16-2015, 12:01 PM   #249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatf30guy View Post
You will definitely need to perform coding even on CANBUS error-free bulbs. The reason for this, as is probably explained on numerous other LED bulbs replacement threads, is because LEDs draw far less current and power than normal incandescents. On the normal bulbs, the car sends a little pulse of current during start-up and every few minutes when driving, to check that the bulb is still working. This doesn't cause the incandescent to light up because it needs more current than what the car's pulse is giving it; however with LEDs, it causes them to flicker rapidly whenever the pulse is sent and that needs to be coded out.

Using E-Sys, the codes that need to be changed for the front two turn signals in are:
(For left bulb)
FEM_BODY 3061 FRA_V_L_KALTUEBERWACHUNG aktiv --> nicht_aktiv
FEM_BODY 3061 FRA_V_L_WARMUEBERWACHUNG aktiv --> nicht_aktiv
FEM_BODY 3061 FRA_V_L_IS_LED nicht_aktiv --> aktiv
(For right bulb)
FEM_BODY 3061 FRA_V_R_KALTUEBERWACHUNG aktiv --> nicht_aktiv
FEM_BODY 3061 FRA_V_R_WARMUEBERWACHUNG aktiv --> nicht_aktiv
FEM_BODY 3061 FRA_V_R_IS_LED nicht_aktiv --> aktiv

Perfect write-up!
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      07-16-2015, 12:06 PM   #250
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Originally Posted by ronjon400 View Post
Just installed em. That's it. Nothing seems to be going wrong.
Are you sure there is no flickering even on starting the engine? I would recommend double checking and at the very least, coding in that the turn signal bulbs are LEDs so the ECU will still tell you if there is a bulb malfunction.

Also, I forgot to add the coding for the rear bulbs which are almost identical to the fronts; only difference is that the ECU is REM instead of FEM. Everything is the same except the beginning phrase which is FRA_H_L instead of FRA_V_L
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      07-16-2015, 04:29 PM   #251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatf30guy
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjon400 View Post
Just installed em. That's it. Nothing seems to be going wrong.
Are you sure there is no flickering even on starting the engine? I would recommend double checking and at the very least, coding in that the turn signal bulbs are LEDs so the ECU will still tell you if there is a bulb malfunction.

Also, I forgot to add the coding for the rear bulbs which are almost identical to the fronts; only difference is that the ECU is REM instead of FEM. Everything is the same except the beginning phrase which is FRA_H_L instead of FRA_V_L
Ok if there is a flicker, then what do I need to do as far as coding? Who does it? Can I do it? I'm pretty computer savvy.
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      07-16-2015, 04:59 PM   #252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjon400 View Post
Ok if there is a flicker, then what do I need to do as far as coding? Who does it? Can I do it? I'm pretty computer savvy.
There most likely is flickering and you're just not noticing it yet. The easiest solution would be to find a local member in your area and to pay them to do it. I don't have a laptop, but the cost of that, plus an enet cable, sourcing a token for esys, etc is just too much for me. I'd rather pay someone with experience to do it for me.
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      07-16-2015, 06:28 PM   #253
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Ok thank you for your help
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      07-16-2015, 07:17 PM   #254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjon400 View Post
Ok if there is a flicker, then what do I need to do as far as coding? Who does it? Can I do it? I'm pretty computer savvy.
You can PM shawnsheridan, he's the one who hooked me up with the coding software. Or you can just browse around on the Coding and DIY section of the forum for other sources. As for the ENET cable, you can either make one or buy one off Amazon for around $40. All of the installation instructions and steps for activating E-Sys as well as connecting to your car are well explained in the included documentation. After that, all you need to do is apply the changes I mentioned above and you should be good to go
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      07-17-2015, 05:49 AM   #255
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Thanks man. Teach a man to fish.
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      02-29-2016, 05:08 AM   #256
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how about these:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1set-...502098323.html

do they work instead of coding?
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      03-07-2016, 12:47 PM   #257
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If you're looking for a pair of LED bulbs for the front turn signals I highly suggest going with the plasma LEDs you get that from underground euros. There's a picture of them on my car on that website because we were testing them out when my car first came out and there are no error codes or anything in there an exact match to the halos but my halos were coded to 100% instead of the original I think 50% but when they're on there is an exact match and they are perfect I've had them in my car since the day I got my car or the week I got my car December of 2013 and to this day they are perfect and I wouldn't change them for anything else they are white plasma LED from his website underground euros or if you just do a search for underground euros or something
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