[squidlyboy]

Which REM did you end up using?

[Shazsta]

Originally Posted by squidlyboy

Which REM did you end up using?

Ended up using 61359362394

I followed the directions on getting it running. I have a CIC not nbt. Not sure if it matters but I was worried that it would. I still have the front to do. I'm worried it'll mess up things tho.

[steelerfan]

Originally Posted by steelerfan

Hey RSnic,

Did you ever get this resolved? I'm running into issues with my reverse camera & also did the same TRSV & control module as you. I didn't purchase or install the side/overhead camers... i thought i was just setting myself up to be able to purchase those in the future & not have to swap those parts out. Odd part is, now i have lost my rear PDC even after removing option 3AG & VO-Coding all the affected ECU's.. It's frustrating for sure.. i get such limited time to work on this (basically it was my fathers present to be able to work on my car)... today i noticed my comfort access is no longer working after all these changes...

So i got it all working... Couple of things.. i had some cabling wrong behind the HU for the reverse camera... i ran the wires for Front PDC & connected them to the REM (thinking i was saving time but i had to redo it so it saved me no time), i also did front PDC, I removed option 507, added 508 & vo coded FEM_Body, HU_CIC, REM & ICM... My comfort access is still not working & my reverse camera/console switch lights up at night but the buttons for the rear view camera do nothing...

As for painting the sensors.. i did the front sensors in this stuff & i would highly recommend it... night & day difference on the way the back sensors came out with the touch up paint & the brush strokes vs. this spray on stuff.. you be the judge...

Brush on touch up paint which i don't recommend... my rear PDC sensors came out looking like this...



use this stuff instead



the front sensors came out looking a lot better... looks like OEM.. I may end up redoing the rear sensors at some point



I posted this same advice in the front PDC thread... it's worth repeating...

If you want OEM look you could go a step further & after drilling the holes you can paint the inside that was just exposed with the paint i suggest above... think about it this way, BMW dips their panels & they have predrilled the holes for the PDC sensors.. so those holes are same color as your car... i have a silver car so after i drilled the center of the holes are black... yes there is a black coupling ring but you will see what i'm saying.. the bracket keeps you from shoving the sensor all the way in the hole so unless you have a black car, you will see the newly drilled holes in your bumper unless you paint the inside of them.. i choose not too, still came out looking OEM IMO.

[rubber_ducky]

I placed my order for the retrofit cable from PartSale.eu on July 22nd. They charged my CC at that time. I just received notification this morning that the part shipped. I was 10 days away from the six month anniversary of ordering the part.

Based on reports here, I expect the part to take another month or so to get to my door.

Not only was I 10 days away from the half-year mark, I'm 7 days away from a trip to London where I was contemplating a trip to a BMW dealership to attempt to source the part myself.

I might actually get this done before the spring thaw!

[roxxor]

Originally Posted by rubber_ducky

I placed my order for the retrofit cable from PartSale.eu on July 22nd. They charged my CC at that time. I just received notification this morning that the part shipped. I was 10 days away from the six month anniversary of ordering the part.

Based on reports here, I expect the part to take another month or so to get to my door.

Not only was I 10 days away from the half-year mark, I'm 7 days away from a trip to London where I was contemplating a trip to a BMW dealership to attempt to source the part myself.

I might actually get this done before the spring thaw!

Yeah, it seems that the speed of service had dropped off during the last year while they were changing over their website. I ordered some parts for the M-Sport B-Pillar light retrofit in January of 2015, didn't finally receive them until December....

[klil]

Hey,

Has anybody attempted to solder connectors on the REM which did not have the PDC pins from factory???

Do you think it might work?



Thanks.

[roxxor]

It would certainly be a bold attempt to try... I never took mine apart, so I couldn't tell you if there was a difference between the actual boards inside the REM or not. As for whether or not it would work, if the boards were the same, you could always try it, but at the risk of messing up the electronics, I probably wouldn't attempt it.

[rubber_ducky]

I finally got around to installing my retrofit kit.

I seem to be having the same problem that koch92 had over a year ago. His 10th and last post on this forum was asking for help...

http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...0&postcount=98

I added option code 507 to my VO
I coded the following ECUs:
-HU_XXX
-REM
-ICM

...I do realize that coding the HU_XXX and ICM ECUs weren't necessary.

In any event, I get the error message seen in the below photo and then a PDC screen with no PDC sensor data (pic also below)

I tried disconnecting the negative battery terminal to see if that would do anything and no luck.

I did get my sensors through ebay, is it possible that one (or more) are bad? Does anybody know if this is the error thrown when that's the case?

I did do the programming with no sensors attached and I shifted into reverse for the first time post-programming before attaching the sensors (and got the same error message but I assumed it was because the sensors weren't attached). Might that be what's wrong?

Any ideas or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

[roxxor]

It's entirely possible that if it threw certain fault codes, it will have to be cleared by Rheingold/ISTA before the system will function normally. You may need to check those and clear any errors, then see if you are still having the problem.

[rubber_ducky]

Originally Posted by roxxor

It's entirely possible that if it threw certain fault codes, it will have to be cleared by Rheingold/ISTA before the system will function normally. You may need to check those and clear any errors, then see if you are still having the problem.

Understood. You mention ISTA specifically, but I should [probably] be able to clear any faults with E-sys no?

[roxxor]

If you are able to, yes, personally I have never done it via e-sys.

[rubber_ducky]

Does anybody happen to have a source for downloading ISTA?

I tried resetting the fault codes using E-sys as described by shawn here:

http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...postcount=1512

...but the error (pictured above) keeps coming up.

I even went so far as to remove option 507 from the VO/FA and re-coded the REM and HU_NBT ECUs but I still get the error when I put the car into reverse. Which really confuses me as I thought that the above steps would tell the car that it no longer has rear PDC as an option.

Thoughts?

[ivannw]

Guys,
Sorry about another question of it but there is one point that isn't clear enough to me.

Does the 66202338070 has the front bumper harness 61129260019 or should I buy it separately?

[atzebmw]

Originally Posted by ivannw

Guys,
Sorry about another question of it but there is one point that isn't clear enough to me.

Does the 66202338070 has the front bumper harness 61129260019 or should I buy it separately?

No, you have to buy it separately.

[nikolay40]

Hi,
my car have REM module with number 9279823. I can't find this module in realoem. It has all the pins for PDC. Can some one tell me will the PDC work with it or not. Thank you in advance

[atzebmw]

Originally Posted by nikolay40

Hi,
my car have REM module with number 9279823. I can't find this module in realoem. It has all the pins for PDC. Can some one tell me will the PDC work with it or not. Thank you in advance

If there are the 12Pins for PDC it will work.

[nikolay40]

Originally Posted by atzebmw

If there are the 12Pins for PDC it will work.

Thank. I am doing it next week.

[agilbert314]

Hi, planning to dive in for the rear PDC retrofit as I managed to damage my rear bumper !
My car has no CIC nor NBT. Is it still possible to retrofit PDC then?
By the way, where do you get your parts lately? I'm having no lock finding a used REM here in Canada.
Thanks all

[nikolay40]

Originally Posted by rubber_ducky

I finally got around to installing my retrofit kit.

I seem to be having the same problem that koch92 had over a year ago. His 10th and last post on this forum was asking for help...

http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...0&postcount=98

I added option code 507 to my VO
I coded the following ECUs:
-HU_XXX
-REM
-ICM

...I do realize that coding the HU_XXX and ICM ECUs weren't necessary.

In any event, I get the error message seen in the below photo and then a PDC screen with no PDC sensor data (pic also below)

I tried disconnecting the negative battery terminal to see if that would do anything and no luck.

I did get my sensors through ebay, is it possible that one (or more) are bad? Does anybody know if this is the error thrown when that's the case?

I did do the programming with no sensors attached and I shifted into reverse for the first time post-programming before attaching the sensors (and got the same error message but I assumed it was because the sensors weren't attached). Might that be what's wrong?

Any ideas or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Hi rubber_ducky, did you manage to solve this issue because i am having the same problem.

[atzebmw]

Originally Posted by nikolay40

Hi rubber_ducky, did you manage to solve this issue because i am having the same problem.

Which Ecus did you code?
Because rubber_ducky wrote "...I do realize that coding the HU_XXX and ICM ECUs weren't necessary."
But coding the HU_XXX is necessary!
If you are not sure, you can also encode all ECUs by VO and code 507.

[agilbert314]

Hi,

I received sensors advertised as being BMW OEM but there're not. Has someone used VW's sensors as these when retrofitting?

Part# VW AG 300 919 275



Thanks

[agilbert314]

Originally Posted by squidlyboy

My Rear Electronic Module (REM) - Part #61359329700 - arrived this week, and since my retrofit cables have not come in yet, i figured i would go ahead and do the REM replacement first since its a necessary pre-requisite task. Thanks to everyone who did NOT bid on this on Ebay ... It was sitting there at $175 for the longest time, and i finally offerred the guy $125, which he accepted It had one missing mounting tab, but between one mounting tab and another mounting screw it was good enough to secure it in the battery compartment.

This particular REM is the one roxxor recommended as having all the necessary pins/connectors needed to power the PDC sensors and connect/run the data to the NBT head unit and stereo speakers. I was tempted to take apart the REM unit to see how its wired, but ahh.. was too lazy But i did take some pics of the install and wanted to share some of my install details in case anyone might find it useful during your own rear PDC retrofit.

Btw... other than having to drill holes in the rear bumper, this part (replacing REM) of the overall rear PDC retrofit made me the most nervous, since its such a key part of the car and could screw up a lot if something went wrong. However, after seeing how easy it was to replace, most of those fears are gone.

The whole install takes less than 15-20 minutes as there is not a lot to remove. This was one of the easiest things i've replaced on the car. However, coding WILL be required after replacing this part to get rid of an innocuous dash error and your rear windows not being able to open/close. Or you can do coding all at once after the PDC sensors are installed. More on the coding part later. Here is the removal/swap procedure:

1. Remove storage cover to reveal the battery compartment in the trunk. The nice thing here is that you don't have to remove any of the trunk liners which woulda been somewhat of a PITA. Its nice for once not to have to tear apart the car to do something. The battery compartment area is conveniently covered up by this recessed storage cover that is removed by just turning that dial at the top of it.
2. Remove battery ground cable (13mm nut) - for safety and to protect sensitive electronic components should something weird occur. You might see small sparks fly when the connector/cable contacts the grounding post. It kinda freaked me out a little when i did this. Don't be alarmed. Use an insulated needle-nose pliers to hold the grounding cable for safety. I was always wondering with these new type of computerized cars, that if you remove the power to the car, what would happen? It turns out for a BMW, the only thing that is affected is the time/date. Thats the only thing lost when you "unplug" your car. Very minor impact.
3. Remove all three (3) electrical connectors from the REM - There are 3 connector/harnesses plugged into the original REM, and all will need to be removed in order to replace the REM. These connectors have the flip-locking mechanism that holds them into place. In order to remove these, a) Press in the release lever/button in the middle of the connector, then
   b) Flip the release handle upwards . As you flip the handle up, the connector should start to move out of the connector slot on its own.
4. Remove power cable to the REM - this is the +12 power cable to the REM. In order to remove it, there are two things you'll need to do. a) first, use a pair of needle-nose plier to grip the red locking tab and pull it straight out. Then b) press down on the release lever using needle nose pliers, then pull the connector straight out/back towards you.
5. Remove 10mm mounting screw that holds REM to chassis - now that all cables/connectors have been removed, the only thing that remains is a 10mm screw that holds the REM to the mounting point on the chassis. Remove that and the REM will just pop out.
6. Replace REM - a) two mounting tabs into chassis slots - there are two tabs on the left side of the REM that slide into the accompanying slots/holes in the chassis where the original REM went. Just slide the tabs into those two holes/slots, then b) align the mounting hole on the right side of the REM on the hole in the chassis where the original REM went, then screw the 10mm screw back in. Your new REM is now secured!
7. Replace everything in reverse order - just be careful with the little pieces - e.g. red locking tab to power cable, nuts... if you drop them, it will fall between the battery compartment and it will be a PITA to fish out. When you re-connect the battery ground cable to the post, you will definitely see small sparks now if you didn't see any during the removal. Again, don't be alarmed, but i do recommend using an insulated pair of pliers to hold the cable to place back on the post.

Once you button everything back up, turn on the car to make sure everything looks the same/normal. The only thing that should show up on your dash is a warning to set the date/time on the car again and a Trunk Open warning on your dash. Don't be alarmed about the Trunk warning. You have a new REM that requires new coding to bring it up to snuff. From Rsnic:

One other side effect of changing out the REM (but no error shows up for this on dash) is that the rear windows don't seem to respond to the driver window controls. This seemed to also have been corrected after programming. YMMV.

Thanks again to roxxor for pioneering this Rear PDC Retrofit DIY thread, taking all the initial risks and paving the way for the rest of us! You did the hard work, and the rest of us are just filling in details, and enjoying the fruits of your labor

EDIT: add coding info about the 'Trunk Open' warning on dash

Thanks squidlyboy for these detailed instructions. I followed them and replaced the REM easily.

One have to be careful with the small red locking tab. I managed to break it when removing it. It may be because it was freezing cold up here. Let's see if I can find one.