[FSociety]

Here's my Racechip Dyno I did past weekend, Racechip has been installed since beginning of December 2014.

Reasons I went with Racechip? I have no experience working with cars under the hood or modding or tuning, wanted something that would increase performance and improve MPG at the same time. RaceChip® – plug-in up to 31% more POWER and 15% ECONOMY. 18 years of experience. Made in Germany. Rated Best 2013 ChipTuning Box & won the review of EuroTuner Magazine http://www.racechip-usa.com/media/racechip_review.pdf

How RaceChip chip tuning works
It read data from the engine control unit in real time, and optimise many characteristics. These data include items such as injection timing, injection quantity, injection pressure, boost pressure and air mass. In addition to an increased engine power of up to 31 % you can also save fuel at the same time. But that does only work if you – encouraged by the driving pleasure – do not step on the gas or accelerate more than you did before without your RaceChip®.

Fully stock X3 w/ half tank of Valero 93 octane, xDrive
Stock setting for Racechip N20 is C

1st run is baseline
2nd run on C
3rd run on F
4th run on 1
5th run on 4

The Racechip settings are from Lowest 8 to highest 7
8, 9, A, B, C, D, E, F, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

I feel Racechip on F could of given a better number but it's whatever to me, at least Dyno also proves its some more than a stage1.
Waiting on the Corrected and Smoothing 5 graphs from the Dyno shop

Also attached my friends 2013 xDrive28i w/ Dinan stage1 and Supersprint quadexhaust Dyno

*** Updated STD: Corrected & Smoothing:5 Charts ***
Shop was under moving and some construction so there was some delays.

Need more reviews Go check out the
M235 thread 5+ owners, F15 35/35i/50i 10+ owners.
F10 535/550 owners 5+

[rustyminded]

yes I agree with what you said but looking at psi from your log you previously said with that settings it reached 21-22 psi as far as I remember ?
If so BMS st. is only 3 psi over stock that's what I remember when I got it, as far as JB4 is almost 4 psi over stock on map 1 and reaches 21 on map 2
after BMS changing their product quality with logging ability, changing maps from button and error reading and same as RC price which competes with st.1.. I'm completely in for JB4 especially after adjusting settings, the car is a beast !

[LongBeachDinanFan]

This comparison looks bogus. For starters half of your runs don't have a correction factor applied and are set to smoothing 0. They must all be set to either STD or SAE correction smoothing 5 to be compared with. The second issue is they are all done on different cars, different fuel mixtures, different dyno machines, under different weather conditions. Something as simple as electronic vs. standard wastegate control can add or subtract 10-15 horsepower from these runs. For example in another thread on N20 tunes you posted this chart. On this thread you post different charts.

Your post makes it sound like RC is better than Dinan and the others but when you consider the settings and other details it's easy to see all of these tunes are roughly equivalent. The main difference is the cost and whether or not the tuner provides a full power train warranty on their product.

[mike@x-ph.com]

I will ask the same question that i asked in your other post.
Is the BMS graph done on the same dyno, same car, same day as the Race Ultimate?

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

Nope just using the charts for a small comparison, actually I'll just remove the BMS stuff to avoid confusion.

Thats a very good idea. You have a really good thread with dynos to prove results of the tune you picked. Doing an uncompleted comparison will result in derailing the thread and turning it to a tuner war

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

Thats a very good idea. You have a really good thread with dynos to prove results of the tune you picked. Doing an uncompleted comparison will result in derailing the thread and turning it to a tuner war

Agreed

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

Agreed

Hey we had a civilized conversation about different tunes and we came to an agreement. Not many people on this forum can do so

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

Hey we had a civilized conversation about different tunes and we came to an agreement. Not many people on this forum can do so

Yep

[rustyminded]

what's the use of posting if you are not up to the debate
you can't just force your opinion upon others & when around you start saying theirs, you just ignore & turn your back. all the above is not a fact versus because simply not car or dyno are same, I'm not a bms maniac man & you know that. you know well that i was impressed by RC when i first saw your videos, I seriously wanted to change but I had problem finding the right octane & adjusting setting which bms helped out because earlier i didn't know the car's potential which what st.2 offers at RC price..

you wanna prove it ? go old school the real vs. would be same cars against each other with diff. tune like you & your friend with dinan, from it now we know RC is better than Dinan but still that doesn't mean people won't buy it. do a vs. with JB4 not JB & if u win I'll simply sell my JB4 & get RC right away lol

btw I now managed to open map 2. enough for me that an E92 M3 was at my rear door from 0 to 120 km/h till we hit dead end not an X3 35i

[Ganxxta]

Btw. for all interested in RC, apparently they now include 2 years drivetrain warranty (at least for europe), not so bad for the price...

I also just checked AC Schnitzer and they offer also a Piggy but at "just" 2.5k €

There can't be so much difference...

[K320]

I have been using BMS and RC and can talk about how they feel.
I still have my JB4 with EWG harness.
On these cars any setting you make needs adaptation to settle so changing values on a dyno will not reveals how is running at the end.
My experience with both is that any change you make need some miles on the car to react properly and that the gas must be consistent (same brand).
Dyno pulls here are fair and i want to test both; RC and JB4 after a week of running them.
Gonna start with RC on C, F, 2, 4 and later with JB4 on map 1 with same gas (93) both.
Will post results of dynojet with current weather.
As spoke before, i'am very pleased with both, support on BMS is always A+

[rustyminded]

Originally Posted by Kendroz

I have been using BMS and RC and can talk about how they feel.
I still have my JB4 with EWG harness.
On these cars any setting you make needs adaptation to settle so changing values on a dyno will not reveals how is running at the end.
My experience with both is that any change you make need some miles on the car to react properly and that the gas must be consistent (same brand).
Dyno pulls here are fair and i want to test both; RC and JB4 after a week of running them.
Gonna start with RC on C, F, 2, 4 and later with JB4 on map 1 with same gas (93) both.
Will post results of dynojet with current weather.
As spoke before, i'am very pleased with both, support on BMS is always A+

maybe you don't have latest firmware, Have you tried the EWG firmware hex_5.2 it's not on website though. it has canflap feature and the car is much smoother and better end pull

[K320]

Originally Posted by rustyminded

maybe you don't have latest firmware, Have you tried the EWG firmware hex_5.2 it's not on website though. it has canflap feature and the car is much smoother and better end pull

Nope. Only version 5.
Gonna be interesting testing that.
Thanks for the info.

[Boostin335]

Rob, what is safe to run with 93 octane for east coast folks with RC? E or F?

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by Boostin335

Rob, what is safe to run with 93 octane for east coast folks with RC? E or F?

Those run fine, after car being re-programmed due to CruiseControl Faulty Module and driving a full tank on C (stock) I am now on D for the next whole tank, then going to E and F.
I need to hit the track asap before temps get hotter and test my baseline (RC off) and RC on each setting.
Let me know if you want to tag along

[Boostin335]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

Those run fine, after car being re-programmed due to CruiseControl Faulty Module and driving a full tank on C (stock) I am now on D for the next whole tank, then going to E and F.
I need to hit the track asap before temps get hotter and test my baseline (RC off) and RC on each setting.
Let me know if you want to tag along

Got your emails. Please report back and let us know how D drove... (any CELs, more lag, spikey throttle, etc.) if this is all 100% clear then those on 93 know they can go to D which is probably about the same as Scorcher because D is +4 psi I believe vs +3 like C... and if you can then let us know how E does as well.

Next week we will be mid 70s they say, so curious as to how the car will run as we get warmer here in the tri-state.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by Boostin335

Got your emails. Please report back and let us know how D drove... (any CELs, more lag, spikey throttle, etc.) if this is all 100% clear then those on 93 know they can go to D which is probably about the same as Scorcher because D is +4 psi I believe vs +3 like C... and if you can then let us know how E does as well.

Next week we will be mid 70s they say, so curious as to how the car will run as we get warmer here in the tri-state.

I have driven on all settings previously in the winter & 0 issues.
Here I posted some turbo boost psi I've data logged in March
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1082254

But yes lets see how they all behave in these warmer months I don't plan on going higher than F (21-23 psi)

[FSociety]

*** Updated STD: Corrected & Smoothing:5 Charts ***
Shop was under moving and some construction so there was some delays.

[Stubok]

Originally Posted by ROBNYC

*** Updated STD: Corrected & Smoothing:5 Charts ***
Shop was under moving and some construction so there was some delays.

Wow Racechip chart looks pretty good. Dinan... not so much considering $$$

You also get that blip at 2750-3000 rpm. must be something to do with piggybacks, cause I think I've seen that on a few now. def feels like I get it with A8 tune. Still waiting for my dyno day with the A8 tune.

Though I now have an itch for the GSR flash... what they're getting looks very good and smooth too (especially for 91 Octane). Shame there is no one near me that could do this. SoCal is a bit too far to drive. Imagine what it would get with 93 Octane, high flow Cat/DP, CIA, ATM IC & chargepipes.... Sick!!

[goon]

Originally Posted by Stubok

Though I now have an itch for the GSR flash... what they're getting looks very good and smooth too (especially for 91 Octane). Shame there is no one near me that could do this. SoCal is a bit too far to drive. Imagine what it would get with 93 Octane, high flow Cat/DP, CIA, ATM IC & chargepipes.... Sick!!

I'm about to find out

My ECU is at GSR as we speak

My car is a 3000lb paperweight and I feel really bad about that right now

In FL, we have 93 oct, and I have catted DP and AWE Tuning exhaust. No CP's or FMIC yet, but maybe after this ECU tune, I may reconsider.

I'll be reporting back, unfortunately without baseline dyno. I was unable to schedule time to coincide with me shipping out the ECU. Do you think it would be worth getting on a dyno post-install? So sorry ROBNYC if I threadjacked.

[Stubok]

Man I'm jealous! So hope it is smooth and strong! Running more boost in FL, you may want to pick up an ATM FMIC while they have stock at that price.

If there is one thing I discovered pretty quick, it's that the stock intercooler heat soaks after 2-3 hard pulls. And that's not even with the tune or in hot weather yet.

Absolutely worth getting on a dyno. If you get on a dyno jet you should be able to use other baselines.

For example, I ran mine on a dynojet without my tune on 93 octane and have solid baseline of 238bhp 264 lb-ft on a 70degF day here in Austin. Yes it isn't your engine but those numbers are in line with others we've seen on Dynojet.

Really excited to hear about how smooth it is more than anything. Piggybacks, even the top end ones like Racechip and Active8 have some rough spots, per comment earlier. Hopefully you dyno it and we see a beautiful smooth curve.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by Stubok

Wow Racechip chart looks pretty good. Dinan... not so much considering $$$

You also get that blip at 2750-3000 rpm. must be something to do with piggybacks, cause I think I've seen that on a few now. def feels like I get it with A8 tune. Still waiting for my dyno day with the A8 tune.

Though I now have an itch for the GSR flash... what they're getting looks very good and smooth too (especially for 91 Octane). Shame there is no one near me that could do this. SoCal is a bit too far to drive. Imagine what it would get with 93 Octane, high flow Cat/DP, CIA, ATM IC & chargepipes.... Sick!!

Yea I noticed that blip too lol, i dont have any other mods so could be that too. Too much power and prob stock downpipe being too restrictive or maybe chargepipe.

Originally Posted by goon

I'm about to find out

My ECU is at GSR as we speak

My car is a 3000lb paperweight and I feel really bad about that right now

In FL, we have 93 oct, and I have catted DP and AWE Tuning exhaust. No CP's or FMIC yet, but maybe after this ECU tune, I may reconsider.

I'll be reporting back, unfortunately without baseline dyno. I was unable to schedule time to coincide with me shipping out the ECU. Do you think it would be worth getting on a dyno post-install? So sorry ROBNYC if I threadjacked.

No worries man you didnt threadjacked
What about if you do post-install Dyno without the mods? Or are you getting stage2 ? Not sure if you installed your own mods.