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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > 2012-2019 BMW 3 and 4-Series Forums > General F30 Sedan / F32 Coupe / F36 Gran Coupe Forum > Cold start issue on N26
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      01-03-2018, 12:30 PM   #1
BlueCrabMafia
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2012 328i with N26, Injen intake and DINANTRONICS Sport tuner set to race using 93 octane with 82K on the car.

This morning went to start my car (9 degrees out with a wind chill of -2) and it was slow starting (sits outside) but started. The slow starting has been a recent issue with the single digit temps.

After letting the rpm's drop below 1K, I put the car in drive and it promptly stalled out. Started it up again, repeated same sequence and stalled a second time. Started a third time, revved the motor for a bit to around 3K rpm's and after it idled down I was finally able to drive away without it stalling.

Normal for cold temps? About 2 weeks ago I did OEM plugs (verified gap) and a serpentine belt. No issues after doing that. Didn't start acting weird until these single digit temps.
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      01-03-2018, 04:01 PM   #2
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Before singling out the temperature there are a few other things to consider as it stalled so many times. Does it do it again after you have had a hard start or is it fine on subsequent starts later in the day?

- Battery condition? Age? Resting voltage? How often is the car driven and for how long (miles and time)?
- Fuel half full or near full?
- Possible moisture in fuel?
- Any fault codes? Starter? Oxygen sensor? Idle control?
- Correct spark plugs? Sometimes dealers put out a SIB for updated plugs.

Take them in any order but battery would be my go to as a start.
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      01-03-2018, 04:06 PM   #3
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i had a very similar issue with another car (Audi), so just take this for what its worth. it turned out the plugs were just fouled due to age, and normal wear and tear. i would stall right as i shifted into reverse in the very cold weather. Plugs changed and i never had the issue again in 3 additional years.

Considering you just did the plugs, that would be a red flag for me
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      01-03-2018, 04:57 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 37psi View Post
Before singling out the temperature there are a few other things to consider as it stalled so many times. Does it do it again after you have had a hard start or is it fine on subsequent starts later in the day?

- Battery condition? Age? Resting voltage? How often is the car driven and for how long (miles and time)?
- Fuel half full or near full?
- Possible moisture in fuel?
- Any fault codes? Starter? Oxygen sensor? Idle control?
- Correct spark plugs? Sometimes dealers put out a SIB for updated plugs.

Take them in any order but battery would be my go to as a start.
Battery condition is the original battery from 2012. Haven't measured the resting voltage yet. Car used to be driven for long distances of 30 minutes of more, but in the last 3 months most drives are of a shorter duration now of 5-15 minutes.

Gas is a fresh tank that is at full currently. Never had an issue with moisture before (not saying it isn't one now).

I did not get any codes on the dash this morning, but will pull OBD codes when I get home.

Plugs should be correct. I used OEM NGK 12120039664.

I had zero issues after the plug change for 2 weeks. It's only since NE Ohio has turned into the planet Hoth that I've begun experiencing problems. And today is the first time it's ever stalled out on me.

Perhaps my Tauntaun froze before the outer marker?
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      01-03-2018, 05:03 PM   #5
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With a battery that old and short drives you're lucky it starts at all without being on a maintainer. Stalling usually indicates some sort of issue with the fuel system. I'm garaged, but not heated, on a maintainer, at 15 below it starts just as fast as when it's 70, has never stalled.
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      01-03-2018, 05:10 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfitz View Post
With a battery that old and short drives you're lucky it starts at all without being on a maintainer. Stalling usually indicates some sort of issue with the fuel system. I'm garaged, but not heated, on a maintainer, at 15 below it starts just as fast as when it's 70, has never stalled.
The stalling is what is throwing me off as well. I would attribute that to a bad battery normally, but I know how sensitive these cars are to battery issues. The battery should be out of the circuit once that car is started, but I'm not intimately familiar with the F30.

Started it up at lunch today same as this morning except temp was around 15 degrees. Zero issue with cranking or stalling.

EDIT:

Just pulled my OBD codes. Had P0171 for too lean.
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      01-04-2018, 12:38 AM   #7
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As Billfitz has said the battery requires some care. A battery tender would be a good investment.

Ok so now you need to track down the faulty sensor or vacuum leak. Could be MAF sensor. Or a different o2 sensor. Pull the specific codes if you can rather than generic ones. You will need a BMW code reader/diagnostic software like ISTA D, Carley, BavTech... that should help narrow it down further.

My final thoughts are try change the map if it is a switchable tune you have. Using a lighter setting might help avoid running lean in cold conditions.

Side note. Correct torque on the spark plugs?
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      01-04-2018, 12:41 AM   #8
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This is going to sound weird test the battery see what the CCa's are, and what they should be. thinking it's just bc it's so cold out
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      01-07-2018, 02:40 PM   #9
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Having the EXACT same symptoms on 2013 F30 w/ N26.

Starts, stalls, start again, stalls again...usually 3 or 4 times until it stays running.
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