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      04-03-2012, 08:59 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blindmule
just picked up my F30 335i sport 8spd....and I can tell you keeping it under 4500 for the full break-in will be impossible. I'm trying to be somewhat gentle and not slam the throttle. But the N55 loves to rev.

Keeping under 4500 rpm means no sport, sport+, or M/S modes. And those are the reasons I bought the car in the first place.
right, virtually impossible to drive in sport without unintentionally going over 4500 rpms. You will also be over 100 mph car is way more than we need but a totally orgasmic experience.
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      04-03-2012, 09:13 PM   #24
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Drive it like you stole it.
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      04-03-2012, 10:02 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by jzcrna View Post
right, virtually impossible to drive in sport without unintentionally going over 4500 rpms. You will also be over 100 mph car is way more than we need but a totally orgasmic experience.
LOL...I just may have to use that eco button and some short shifting. At least I can go as fast as 100mph
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      04-03-2012, 10:46 PM   #26
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[quote=ric124;11680621]This is from the 335 manual

[IMG]http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/visstab/df79d80f.jpg[/


Do you think is the same for the 328, the engine is different so maybe the break in is different too.
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      04-03-2012, 10:58 PM   #27
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[quote=Miamidrivesbimmers;11682695]
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Originally Posted by ric124 View Post
This is from the 335 manual

[IMG]http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/visstab/df79d80f.jpg[/


Do you think is the same for the 328, the engine is different so maybe the break in is different too.
328i_335i_Sedan_Owners_Manual.pdf
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      04-04-2012, 04:36 AM   #28
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It's going to be a LOOOONG 2000km wait
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      04-04-2012, 04:50 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by nexusonemeover
Drive it like you stole it.
+1.
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      04-04-2012, 07:16 AM   #30
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It is important to vary both the engine speed and the road speed. You don't want the mechanical parts to wear into one pattern.
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      04-04-2012, 09:39 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by CE750Jockey View Post
I think the whole break in thing is bunk. It's subjective and rooted in old folklore.
If its old folklore, it would not be in the manual. What is old folklore is having to change the oil after the break in period. In the old says, engine manufacturing technique were not as precise as today. The break in period produce some metal shavings. Today's engine is made to much tighter tolerance and produce much less metal shavings, therefore, no need to change the oil after the break in period.
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      04-04-2012, 09:44 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by The X Men View Post
If its old folklore, it would not be in the manual. What is old folklore is having to change the oil after the break in period. In the old says, engine manufacturing technique were not as precise as today. The break in period produce some metal shavings. Today's engine is made to much tighter tolerance and produce much less metal shavings, therefore, no need to change the oil after the break in period.
You further articulated exactly what I was getting at. The techniques and tolerances are much, much better than they ever were. Hence, the loose and vague break in recommendations. Like another poster said, "Drive it like ya stole it".
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      04-04-2012, 09:45 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by The X Men View Post
If its old folklore, it would not be in the manual. What is old folklore is having to change the oil after the break in period. In the old says, engine manufacturing technique were not as precise as today. The break in period produce some metal shavings. Today's engine is made to much tighter tolerance and produce much less metal shavings, therefore, no need to change the oil after the break in period.
Do you know how I know you've never done a Blackstone analysis on a modern engine?
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      04-04-2012, 09:51 AM   #34
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From 1000kms (600 miles)on I pushed it like an idiot (when warmed up off course.)
Just like I did with the other new BMW's I previously owned. Hoppa! 7000rpm thru gears and 250kmh when possible. (Traffic)
Never had any problems.
And cooling down(turbo) after some hard driving off course.

I do not want a 'lazy' engine and breaking in the hard(er) way prevents that imo.

I now have 2500kms(>1500miles) on it so far.
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      04-04-2012, 10:03 AM   #35
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Do you know how I know you've never done a Blackstone analysis on a modern engine?
Labs such as Blackstone is in the business of making money, they purposely set that max. allowable unit low to create repeated business. If all you test come back good, those labs will be out of business. Just follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for oil change, if you have extra money to throw away, spend it on new rims instead
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      04-04-2012, 10:17 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by The X Men View Post
Labs such as Blackstone is in the business of making money, they purposely set that max. allowable unit low to create repeated business. If all you test come back good, those labs will be out of business. Just follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for oil change, if you have extra money to throw away, spend it on new rims instead
An oil change takes $50 of parts and fluids and takes all of fifteen minutes. Doing one after 1,200 miles is easy peace of mind. M cars still have it, and they largely run production based motors now.

You stated that modern engines are built to higher tolerances and don't have break in issues like older engines, but I've seen higher heavy metal numbers on newer, and especially turbo charged engines, than I did on older cars. I'm simply stating that if some BMW's recommend a low mileage oil change, and if real, measurable contaminants show up at those intervals, it's an easy decision for some of us to continue to do it on our cars. Do what you want with yours.
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      04-04-2012, 11:54 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by Ron Scott View Post
Not understanding the advice regarding staying within the official speed limit. To a NYC/LI driver that is 55; to an AZ driver it could be 85+.
I'm pretty sure they don't mean that you should keep to the speed limit because of the engine but because it's the law!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Bread View Post
An oil change takes $50 of parts and fluids and takes all of fifteen minutes. Doing one after 1,200 miles is easy peace of mind. M cars still have it, and they largely run production based motors now.

You stated that modern engines are built to higher tolerances and don't have break in issues like older engines, but I've seen higher heavy metal numbers on newer, and especially turbo charged engines, than I did on older cars. I'm simply stating that if some BMW's recommend a low mileage oil change, and if real, measurable contaminants show up at those intervals, it's an easy decision for some of us to continue to do it on our cars. Do what you want with yours.
Regarding M cars, they're tuned and driven very differently to other cars. So it's no surprise that BMW have different oil change recommendations compared with less highly-strung engines.
I'd be curious to know whether BMW were among the modern engines that had more contaminants than older cars. I'd also be curious to know whether these contaminants are picked up in the oil pre-filtration or post-filtration, as it may be that part of the reason for the change in oil change advice is improved filters - I don't know.

It is indeed peace of mind. While I would say that changing the oil EVERY 2,000 miles is a bit pointless and OCD, I wouldn't say that anyone changing the oil after the first few thousand miles is doing anything wrong - and I don't think that anyone else is saying that either.

My point is that I think these threads cause people who otherwise wouldn't have thought about it unnecessary worry, and it shouldn't.

How long do you plan on keeping your BMW out of interest? I do intend eventually on keeping a BMW from new until it falls to bits perhaps 20 years later and as I implied above I will then change the oil after 2,000 miles. I know that I'll only keep my F30 for a couple of years though so I can't be bothered.
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      04-04-2012, 12:17 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Feanor View Post
How long do you plan on keeping your BMW out of interest? I do intend eventually on keeping a BMW from new until it falls to bits perhaps 20 years later and as I implied above I will then change the oil after 2,000 miles. I know that I'll only keep my F30 for a couple of years though so I can't be bothered.
I had my M Coupe 137k miles, and it was still going great and that was with the recommended intervals. The 1er is sort of a "meh" so even though I paid to have the oil changed at 1200 miles, and have done a change between each of the recommended changes, I doubt it will benefit me at all.

I agree, skipping any extra oil changes probably has little or no real world benefit for those not planning on keeping their cars for a long duration. Just as not waxing it for three years really doesn't effect it greatly, but I won't skip that either.
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      04-04-2012, 12:39 PM   #39
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I had my M Coupe 137k miles, and it was still going great and that was with the recommended intervals. The 1er is sort of a "meh" so even though I paid to have the oil changed at 1200 miles, and have done a change between each of the recommended changes, I doubt it will benefit me at all.
Then if you plan on keeping your F30 for the same amount of time changing the oil early makes a lot of sense to me .

What made you get rid of your M Coupe if you don't mind me asking? Were you just bored with it, or was it getting a bit soft, or was it suffering from too many problems?

I'm really curious to know how long cars usually last when well looked after as I'm convinced most people get rid of them when they still have plenty of life left; even the cars value drops so low that repairs cost more than its value, those repairs can still cost less than the depreciation of replacing the car.
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      04-04-2012, 12:52 PM   #40
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Then if you plan on keeping your F30 for the same amount of time changing the oil early makes a lot of sense to me .

What made you get rid of your M Coupe if you don't mind me asking? Were you just bored with it, or was it getting a bit soft, or was it suffering from too many problems?

I'm really curious to know how long cars usually last when well looked after as I'm convinced most people get rid of them when they still have plenty of life left; even the cars value drops so low that repairs cost more than its value, those repairs can still cost less than the depreciation of replacing the car.
I sold the M Coupe for a number of reasons, the largest one being that we'd like a "real" car to go along with the 1er. I work a couple of miles from home and either ride my bike or take the light rail, so I rarely needed the M Coupe.

It had a few rattles, but I'd kept up with it, tracked it plenty, been good about changing fluids, filters and such the whole time, etc. It was a bullet proof little thing, tons of fun to drive and relatively cheap to maintain, with no surprises, ever.

I don't enjoy the 1er nearly as much, the flat torque curve just is dull in comparison, and it's really faster than a daily driver really needs to be plus the lack of an LSD and the stock suspension make for sloppy handling. Plus it's had a good number of warranty repairs that make me a little hesitant to keep it past the warranty. We may sell it and get an F30 or F31 for my wife and I may either stay sans car, or get something like the BRZ, or try to track down a Boxster Spyder. I really haven't decided.
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      04-04-2012, 04:51 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Feanor View Post
I'm really curious to know how long cars usually last when well looked after as I'm convinced most people get rid of them when they still have plenty of life left; even the cars value drops so low that repairs cost more than its value, those repairs can still cost less than the depreciation of replacing the car.
It almost never makes $ sense to buy a new car, but life is too short to base everything purely on financial success. Most people buy new cars at about the 5 year mark, thats when I usually do. My wife keeps hers 10 years, but she is the farthest thing from an enthusiast you can imagine.
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      04-05-2012, 03:12 AM   #42
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It almost never makes $ sense to buy a new car, but life is too short to base everything purely on financial success. Most people buy new cars at about the 5 year mark, thats when I usually do. My wife keeps hers 10 years, but she is the farthest thing from an enthusiast you can imagine.
True. The Germans, however, often buy a car from new and keep it for 20 years, and it makes some sense then as you know it's always been looked after. It's why BMWs and Mercs last so long without usually needing much maintenance - their domestic market demands it.
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      04-05-2012, 10:04 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by Red Bread View Post
An oil change takes $50 of parts and fluids and takes all of fifteen minutes. Doing one after 1,200 miles is easy peace of mind. M cars still have it, and they largely run production based motors now.

You stated that modern engines are built to higher tolerances and don't have break in issues like older engines, but I've seen higher heavy metal numbers on newer, and especially turbo charged engines, than I did on older cars. I'm simply stating that if some BMW's recommend a low mileage oil change, and if real, measurable contaminants show up at those intervals, it's an easy decision for some of us to continue to do it on our cars. Do what you want with yours.
Sure, if it makes you feel better, than change your oil at 1200 miles by all means, its cheap insurance. Most of the new engines do not produce as much metal shaving after the break in period as the old days. Some contaminant in your oil is fine, even up to the testing max. allowable limit. Modern engine is a lot better than the old days. If BMW recommand a 1200 mile oil change after the break in, I would certainly follow their recommandation, but they do not with my car.
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      04-10-2012, 12:19 AM   #44
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modern engines don't really need break in. the most important part of this is the piston rings.
the quickest breakin method is to put the car on the Dyno to run the car all out in one gear. then let the engine speed slow down on its own.
or find an open road and do the following.
usually in 3rd gear, from whatever lowest RPM accelerate to the highest RPM without up-shift and then let the car slow down by itself. this way it will create a lot of vacuum inside the engine. do it 6 times or more then you are good to go.
I would change the oil after 500 miles.
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