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      05-22-2017, 10:59 PM   #1
Mikewrite
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2013 ActiveHybrid 3, what is OBDII fault code P1AA5?

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Anyone? There's nothing on the net about this code that I can find, other than two other guys whose cars popped the same code within the past two months, one with a 2013 AH3 like me, another with a 2013 AH5. Mine's at 57,000 miles, comparable to the other AH3 guy's car. I smell a pattern.

I pulled the code with an Innova 3020a reader, the doc for which indicates this might be something in the hybrid propulsion system. Which scares me as to ease of repair and cost. Obviously, I'd rather DIY if it's not ridiculously difficult.

No discernible symptoms when driving. MIL is yellow outline, always on after start, not "filled in" at all, just the outline.

Code reader last I checked (yesterday) shows one permanent, one pending, a third permanent.

Thanks for any insight.
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      06-02-2017, 07:50 PM   #2
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Sooo dealer says code shows misfires on 5 cylinders and ISTA shows ignition coils need replacing. Wanted $1,100+ to replace coils and plugs.

I can get the parts for about 400 bucks and will do this myself.

They said it's not unusual to need coils after only 57,000 miles, and that the factory Bosch coils are now replaced with Delphi, which last longer.

Coils in my 97 328 at 235,000 miles have never been replaced...
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      06-13-2017, 12:19 PM   #3
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I'm fairly new to FI cars, but from what I understand the coils/plugs don't last as long. How do you like the AH3 overall? Any other major problems? I was looking at the 330e but now considering AH3 since it has the N55.
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      06-30-2017, 10:08 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandref321 View Post
I'm fairly new to FI cars, but from what I understand the coils/plugs don't last as long. How do you like the AH3 overall? Any other major problems? I was looking at the 330e but now considering AH3 since it has the N55.
I think it depends on the type of driving you do. From everything I have read, the AH3 is faster than the 330e (which I have) but the 330e is plenty fast.

If you do a lot of city speed local driving, the 330e is a much better choice because you can use the pure electric mode and save gas and the environment. There are many days when I never use the gas engine (driving to a local golf course, supermarket, Costco, bank, etc.). But if I need the power, the gas engine cuts in seamlessly when I step on the accelerator.
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      07-04-2017, 01:11 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveinArizona View Post
I think it depends on the type of driving you do. From everything I have read, the AH3 is faster than the 330e (which I have) but the 330e is plenty fast.

If you do a lot of city speed local driving, the 330e is a much better choice because you can use the pure electric mode and save gas and the environment. There are many days when I never use the gas engine (driving to a local golf course, supermarket, Costco, bank, etc.). But if I need the power, the gas engine cuts in seamlessly when I step on the accelerator.
Thanks! I went to the local dealership and had the wife test drive both. AH3 was definitely faster, but a little rough on the transition from electric to gas. Could have been the car, but felt super smooth and quiet then a big lurch when the gas kicked in. The 330e was definitely slower but not a fair comparison since the batteries were mostly dead when test driven. The electric-gas transition in the 330e was perfect like you said.

We didn't end up getting it though lol...salesman said that they won't sell under MSRP here in Hawaii and if I wanted a better deal then go back to the mainland I feel like I dodged a bullet anyway since the full electric 3 series should be out the end of next year. We can hold out.
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      07-06-2017, 06:19 PM   #6
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Same problem code here, just popped up yesterday... taking it into bmw tomorrow morning. Any updates, info, or resolution to the problem?
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      10-13-2017, 10:19 PM   #7
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Finally was able to take care of this. The P codes from generic readers are useless. Carly showed a code, I don't remember the number now, which indicated a bad fuel pressure sensor at the tank. This sounded like the LPFP to me, which has an integrated sensor and literally sticks out of the top of the gas tank, under the rear seat. I had already had this replaced under warranty by the dealer about a year and a half ago as the one from the factory was a known bad part that caused the MIL to light up.

Well, replacing that pump cleared that fault code - but not the MIL. Carly also showed some puzzling and to me obscure other faults (AC compressor but AC working; something else about a rear electrical module) and I was done futzing with this car.

Took it to an indy shop recommended to me by a long-time BMW owner. They diagnosed failing auxiliary battery, with good volts but shit for amps, which was underpowering various systems like the AC.

And triggering the MIL, which with a new batt is gone at last. The rough idle was because of coding glitches; upgraded coding fixed that. (This BMW specialty shop has been in business for 25 years; the owner said the AH3 required "extremely complicated coding" that took several tries before the car would accept it.)

So the upshot is this car while a lot of fun to drive is one persnickety machine.
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      10-13-2017, 11:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikewrite View Post
Finally was able to take care of this. The P codes from generic readers are useless. Carly showed a code, I don't remember the number now, which indicated a bad fuel pressure sensor at the tank. This sounded like the LPFP to me, which has an integrated sensor and literally sticks out of the top of the gas tank, under the rear seat. I had already had this replaced under warranty by the dealer about a year and a half ago as the one from the factory was a known bad part that caused the MIL to light up.

Well, replacing that pump cleared that fault code - but not the MIL. Carly also showed some puzzling and to me obscure other faults (AC compressor but AC working; something else about a rear electrical module) and I was done futzing with this car.

Took it to an indy shop recommended to me by a long-time BMW owner. They diagnosed failing auxiliary battery, with good volts but shit for amps, which was underpowering various systems like the AC.

And triggering the MIL, which with a new batt is gone at last. The rough idle was because of coding glitches; upgraded coding fixed that. (This BMW specialty shop has been in business for 25 years; the owner said the AH3 required "extremely complicated coding" that took several tries before the car would accept it.)

So the upshot is this car while a lot of fun to drive is one persnickety machine.

Yeah, Bmw ended up replacing the battery and it fixed the code.
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      12-25-2017, 03:40 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by livinlrg05 View Post
Yeah, Bmw ended up replacing the battery and it fixed the code.
Hello people. My 2013 AH3 had the same problem. Mileage @ 58k, check engine popped and brought to a BMW non-dealer shop and diagnose with bad auxiliary battery and O2 sensor upper stream. It cost me around $300 including labor just to replace battery and didnt had to replace O2 sensor because of this post. So far check engine not popping. I guess battery fixed MIL codes. Good luck all and will update post if anything occurs.
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