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      04-26-2013, 03:28 PM   #1
YeaF30
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F30 M Performance Stainless Steel Pedals Install DIY

My local dealership was running a parts special for M Performance items, so I picked up a set of the F30 M Performance Stainless Steel Pedals (Automatic). Couldn't find a detailed DIY on the forums, so here we are. Was an easy install taking me less than 45 minutes to complete.

The MSRP for the pedals are $150 and I paid like $116 with discount then taxes. I know that is an absurd amount of money to pay for a set of pedals but it adds a very nice touch to the interior of the car to which this F30 driver feels should have came standard with the Sportline, but I digress.

Okay, so you'll need about an hour and a few tools to complete the task:

- Power Drill (I used an old school corded drill because you have to drill holes into the brake pedal)
- Drills
- 7mm wrench
- Flashlight
- Screw driver with a star pattern bit (I will post a picture of the bit)
- M Performance Stainless Steel Pedals (#35002232278 Auto)

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Here is what you get inside the box for the pedal kit:
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This is the stock pedal setup in my 328i:
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Your first step is to remove the stock rubber brake pedal cover.
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And here is the naked brake pedal:
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Next find the nuts and bolts included in the pedal kit (3 nuts and 3 bolts) and find a drill that is a little bit larger than the bolt. The bolt needs to slide freely through the brake pedal to thread into the nut on the opposite side. Once you have found the correct drill bit, go ahead and put just the rubber portion of the M pedal on. There is a lip on the inside of this cover that the brake pedal needs to fit under in order for it to line up properly. Once the pedal is aligned, take the drill and make some starter holes on the pedal. The starter holes will allow you to remove the rubber M pedal and continue to drill without ruining the rubber. It takes a little bit of elbow grease and time to get these holes drilled through the carbon steel pedal. This is a picture of two holes finished with one to go to give you a general idea:
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After all the holes are drilled, you can put the rubber M pedal cover on and then place the stainless steel part on and thread the bolts through attach the nuts to the other side. As mentioned earlier, the bolts are a STAR PATTERN and NOT PHILLIPS. Here is a picture of the bit I used:
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On to the next pedal, go ahead and take the time to clean the stock plastic pedal to ensure good adhesive contact. The M gas pedal has an adhesive backing that has two screws that screw directly into the gas pedal. We just have to drill some small pilot holes for the screws to thread into first. So go ahead and practice putting the M gas pedal on and see how it lines up because I believe once you stick it to the pedal you won't be able to remove it.

Now that you see how it lines up, go ahead and remove the adhesive backing:
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Find a drill bit that is slightly SMALLER than the screws provided. If you drill this too big, the screw threads will not grab to the plastic and you have wasted your time. With the correct drill bit selected, go ahead and drill some pilot holes. Once they are drilled, go ahead and use the star pattern screw bit and screw them into the stock gas pedal.
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Your completed product should look similar to this:
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And here with my rubber floor mats placed back in to complete the look:
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Overall, this is a very easy install that if you take your time and be careful should have no issues with. I would rate this a 2 out of 5 in terms of difficulty because of the drilling factor. Again, BMW should have included this in the Sportline and M Sportline but they didn't because their German formulas didn't compute. Good luck.
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      06-06-2013, 10:51 AM   #2
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These instructions were very helpful

I began researching how to install aluminum pedals a few weeks ago. This is perhaps the most helpful DIY installation guide.

I purchased aluminum pedals for my 2013 F30 335i xDrive from www.bimmian.com. It's a different aftermarket set. Each pedal has 4 holes.
The screws included with the Bimmian set are just the right length and will not create any difficulties when fully depressing the accelerator pedal.

Sharing my own installation experience with several suggestions:

1. Use titanium drill bits. Will be easier and faster to drill holes in the brake pedal.

2. Buy a metal C-clamp which can hold the both the OEM pedal and aluminum overlay while drilling.

3. Before drilling, cover the aluminum overlay with blue masking tape (only where the holes are being drilled). When the drill will penetrate the metal, there is a risk of pushing too hard and scratching the aluminum surface.

The accelerator pedal has very little room - lower right screw - to insert the washer / nut behind the pedal. Just follow these simple steps:

4. Pop the screw cover on the bottom of the accelerator pedal assembly and remove the OEM screw. It will create just enough room to insert the washer / nut behind the pedal.

5. Take a large / strong paper clip and bend it at a 90 degree angle to create an L-shaped bracket. Tape washer / nut to the newly created L-shaped bracket. Using the same drill bit, create a hole through the washer / nut mini-assembly.

6. With the L-shaped braket, line up the washer / nut combination behind the accelerator pedal and tighten the screw. It took me a few minutes to line up the screw and washer / nut assembly.

7. Tighten the original OEM screw on the bottom of the accelerator pedal assembly. Return the screw cover to the original place.
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      10-04-2013, 06:25 PM   #3
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Thank you for this DIY. It prepared me for the unknown. But drilling the brake pedal was a challenge.
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      10-06-2013, 12:14 PM   #4
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Drilling the break is the most challenging part for sure. Your install looks great.
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      10-06-2013, 12:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YeaF30 View Post
Drilling the break is the most challenging part for sure. Your install looks great.
Thanks, yup broke two drill bits. I'm glad I lifted weights a day before.
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      11-22-2013, 08:24 PM   #6
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Greetings - Just completed the brake pad/gas pedal upgrade. Easy task, took about an hour. Take your time, pilot your holes carefully and you'll have no problem with this job. A 1.5 out of 5 level complexity.

A few comments to the otherwise useful DIY above:

1. The 'star pattern' is called a Torx Bit. The brake pad screws can be tightened with a T-15 torx. The nut on the back was held in place with a 7mm socket.
2. The three brake pad FINAL drill hole sizes were made with a 5/32 drill bit. After using a dremel to pilot the hole, I started with a 1/8, then 9/64, then finished with 5/32.
3. The drill hole for the gas pedal I used was 3/32. Nice and snug screws again tightened with a T-15 Torx.

Hope this helps.

Regards, David
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Last edited by daberlin; 11-23-2013 at 12:06 AM.
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      12-20-2013, 04:26 PM   #7
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Thanks Daberlin. The specifics on the tools used helps a whole lot.

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      04-09-2014, 06:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daberlin View Post
Greetings - Just completed the brake pad/gas pedal upgrade. Easy task, took about an hour. Take your time, pilot your holes carefully and you'll have no problem with this job. A 1.5 out of 5 level complexity.

A few comments to the otherwise useful DIY above:

1. The 'star pattern' is called a Torx Bit. The brake pad screws can be tightened with a T-15 torx. The nut on the back was held in place with a 7mm socket.
2. The three brake pad FINAL drill hole sizes were made with a 5/32 drill bit. After using a dremel to pilot the hole, I started with a 1/8, then 9/64, then finished with 5/32.
3. The drill hole for the gas pedal I used was 3/32. Nice and snug screws again tightened with a T-15 Torx.

Hope this helps.

Regards, David

This post helped a lot. Thanks.
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      04-09-2014, 06:28 PM   #9
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The whole install was a pain in the back, knees and thighs. I hated every minute of it. Practically the only part that went smooth was the accelerator pedal.


Let's see ... Broke a drill bit, broke the screw itself, working in a tight space and on my knees or squatting the whole time. And the pedals came out uneven. Next time I'm paying the dealership!


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      04-09-2014, 06:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinweiss 335i View Post
The whole install was a pain in the back, knees and thighs. I hated every minute of it. Practically the only part that went smooth was the accelerator pedal.


Let's see ... Broke a drill bit, broke the screw itself, working in a tight space and on my knees or squatting the whole time. And the pedals came out uneven. Next time I'm paying the dealership!


Sorry to hear it was a challenge. Often times it really comes down to the right tools and some patience. Having done this same job on my Porsche, I was a tad more experienced. My best tip is buying/using a dremel to pilot the holes before you drill. It saves from snapping drill bits and making crooked holes.
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      04-09-2014, 07:13 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daberlin View Post
Sorry to hear it was a challenge. Often times it really comes down to the right tools and some patience. Having done this same job on my Porsche, I was a tad more experienced. My best tip is buying/using a dremel to pilot the holes before you drill. It saves from snapping drill bits and making crooked holes.

Thanks for the tips, but I hope I never need to use them again.


See, challenging implies that it was difficult at first, which allowed me some opportunities at learning and ultimately becoming better, then success and finally triumph! None of that happened here. Just plain tedious little task that was difficult and ultimately annoying to complete.


Attached picture of broken screw head, me cursing and a scratched finger.


.
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      04-10-2014, 09:18 PM   #12
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I got my pedals today and I installed them. This post was very useful in ensuring that I didn't screw up. I drilled the break pedal with a 1/64 drill, and then with a 1.8 and 5/32 and it was fairly easy. The only problem is that I have a bulky drill so it was hard to maneuver it into position to drill the top left hole in the brake pedal. My car came with the dead pedal already installed so I was about time to finish it off with the brake and gas pedal. I think they look great!

Here are two photos, before I cleaned the carpet.
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      06-01-2014, 11:47 PM   #13
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how does the left (dead) pedal attach? or did that one come stock with m-sport? I'm extremely hesitant on getting this set mainly because of the drilling (and the money) but I feel like it's a nice touch.
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      06-02-2014, 08:41 AM   #14
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The footrest/dead pedal is standard on the M-Sports.

However if you order one for your non-M Sport, you have two options.

- One that has double-sided tape that sticks on like that
- One that completely replaces the stock with one that has M written on it, this one will need more work of course.
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      06-02-2014, 09:10 PM   #15
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Thanks to the early posters for the tips. I did the install a few days ago and it was a snap. The pedals look great.
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      07-05-2014, 10:41 PM   #16
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Installed mine today using this guide. Was a relative breeze. Take your time and use the right tools. Drilling the brake pedal is pretty easy, I used regular but new (ie SHARP) black oxide drill bits.

After mounting the rubber piece I used a center punch through each hole to give my drill bit something to start on. I used a 1/8" bit then jumped right to the 5/32. Only minor issue was the 5/32 bit wanted to grab the rough edges and stop spinning so I had to get it going at full speed then lightly touch the hole to chamfer it abit but then it zipped through and opened it up quickly.

Took some fiddling to get all the screws in and the locknuts on the back. The gas pedal is ridiculously easy. As was said above play with it abit to see how it fits before removing the red adhesive cover. Found the best method for me was start at the top. Once stuck in place, drill the two pilot holes with the 3/32" bit and tighten the screws. Done.

PS besides using a center punch, I through a shop rag down to catch the metal shavings - that plus a quick hit with the vacuum and cleanup was nothin.
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      07-06-2014, 10:38 AM   #17
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they have these ones on ebay for $60...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141155947666...84.m1439.l2649

Look the same, no drilling and a bit cheaper
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      07-16-2014, 01:53 PM   #18
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As Mick mentioned above, using a center punch is crucial to getting the holes drilled properly on the brake pedal. Use something like this to start the holes and then finish with your drill bit.
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      08-29-2014, 03:16 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timbits93 View Post
The footrest/dead pedal is standard on the M-Sports.

However if you order one for your non-M Sport, you have two options.

- One that has double-sided tape that sticks on like that
- One that completely replaces the stock with one that has M written on it, this one will need more work of course.
Just installed the first option on my Sport Line today. As stated by timbits93, it is double sided and is placed directly on top of the existing plastic footrest. Before I removed the sticker cover, I lined the part up with the footrest and it fits perfectly over top. There is a small lip on the right side extending backwards a few millimeters to help align the two parts. Overall very pleased and since I don't have an "M" or "M Sport" I am happy it lacks the logo. Very clean look to which I highly recommend this upgrade.

Again as I have previously stated, this is how the car should have came from the factory with all the "M performance" style pedals installed.
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