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      11-06-2012, 12:18 PM   #1
ybbiz34
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To those who have suffered from squealing brakes . . .

I just recently took my car in for the second time to deal with the squealing brake problem. The squealing was coming from my rear brake on the passenger side.

The first time I took it in, the dealer replaced the passenger-side rear brake pad and commented that the pad they removed was "glazed." This explanation really didn't make any sense to me (how could one pad be glazed after less than 700 miles of normal driving?) but I was just happy that after the installation of the new pad, the squealing was gone.

After about another 700 miles or so, the squealing was back. Again, I heard the squealing emanating from the rear brake on the passenger side. I took the car back to the dealer and the second time around, the tech noticed that the passenger-side rear broke rotor was defective. In fact, BOTH rear rotors were defective (even though there was no squealing associated with the rear brake on the driver's side).

Moral of the story: If you have squealing from your rear brakes, check out your rotors for any surface defects (or have your dealer do it).
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      11-06-2012, 01:03 PM   #2
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Handbrake malfunction possibly?
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      11-06-2012, 01:08 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juddholland View Post
Handbrake malfunction possibly?
What makes you think that?
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      11-06-2012, 02:52 PM   #4
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Please make sure all of you treat the new pads correctly. I've always been instructed to avoid heavy braking during initial wear in and avoid situations that allow heat to build up (repetitive braking, hard driving, etc.). I've yet to have an issue, though I admit I'm still young.

From:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85

Quote:
Originally Posted by TireRack
Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:

AKEBONO

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

ATE

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

BREMBO Gran Turismo

In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.
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      11-06-2012, 03:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsedlak View Post
Please make sure all of you treat the new pads correctly. I've always been instructed to avoid heavy braking during initial wear in and avoid situations that allow heat to build up (repetitive braking, hard driving, etc.). I've yet to have an issue, though I admit I'm still young.
Thanks for the tip. I've never had brake-related problems on any new car I've ever owned until this one.
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      11-06-2012, 03:35 PM   #6
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Good advice. I've always run-in my cars over the first 1000 miles: engine and brakes especially. I usually put new oil in after the first 1500 miles.

I've never had squealing brakes or excessive (in fact nada) oil usage in any of my cars. After 2000 miles, I thrash the blighter within an inch of its life!

As they say: Slowly, slowly, catchie monkey!
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      11-08-2012, 12:58 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ybbiz34 View Post
What makes you think that?
It might not be releasing fully. Just a guess. I have no reason.
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      11-08-2012, 01:57 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsedlak View Post
Please make sure all of you treat the new pads correctly. I've always been instructed to avoid heavy braking during initial wear in and avoid situations that allow heat to build up (repetitive braking, hard driving, etc.). I've yet to have an issue, though I admit I'm still young.

From:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85
I wonder which category the F30 brakes fall into. I would think they fall into the performance brake category. To properly "bed-in" performance brakes, it involves going up to high speed then heavily braking without coming to a complete stop. This should be repeated 10 times or so. Followed by a cool down cruise.

Heck, this guy does it on cheapo brakes.


My brakes got swapped out at the dealer today due to the squealing. I'm gonna pick it up tomorrow. Hopefully it's all good.
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      11-08-2012, 09:26 AM   #9
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I have had front and rear rotors and pads replaced. Going back into the shop tomorrow because the squeal has come back. I wonder what else they can do.
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      11-08-2012, 09:29 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jzheng02 View Post
I have had front and rear rotors and pads replaced. Going back into the shop tomorrow because the squeal has come back. I wonder what else they can do.
That's not very comforting to know. Good luck and post any updates in this thread.
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      11-08-2012, 12:34 PM   #11
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No issues on my end (thus far) and I have the M Sport Brakes ... fingers crossed (still in break-in period mind you)...
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      11-08-2012, 06:49 PM   #12
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I just got my car back from the dealer. They replaced the front brake pads and sensors. The Service Advisor told me that it's actually the sensors that make the noise. Whatever it was, the squeal is gone for now. We'll see how it goes over the next few days.

I also got the ASS coded to remember the last setting.
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      11-08-2012, 07:02 PM   #13
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bringing my car in next week. After all the bullshit i had had to go through with the last car, my patience will be short with this. I am pretty much going to tell them to fix it asap or order me the m performance brakes, and they can pay for them,
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      11-08-2012, 08:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justinnum1 View Post
bringing my car in next week. After all the bullshit i had had to go through with the last car, my patience will be short with this. I am pretty much going to tell them to fix it asap or order me the m performance brakes, and they can pay for them,
Do you know for sure that the M Performance Brakes don't squeal like a pig?

Any other problems with your new ride? Are you happy with the 335 and vibrating steering upgrade?
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      11-08-2012, 08:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Do you know for sure that the M Performance Brakes don't squeal like a pig?

Any other problems with your new ride? Are you happy with the 335 and vibrating steering upgrade?
i dont know for sure if the mperformance brakes would be any better, but im not to optimistic they can fix the current problem. Not sure how the dealer is going to feel when i tell them to eat the cost of the $2,000 brakes lol

only other issue so far is rear windows dont go auto up, but they can probbly fix that.

Love the car tho, cant detect any significant steering wheel vibration
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      11-08-2012, 08:30 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tremolo View Post
I just got my car back from the dealer. They replaced the front brake pads and sensors. The Service Advisor told me that it's actually the sensors that make the noise. Whatever it was, the squeal is gone for now. We'll see how it goes over the next few days.

I also got the ASS coded to remember the last setting.
Nice choice with the ASS reprogramming. I still need to get that done when I get my winter tires put on the car.

Also, I think your SA could be correct about the sensors being the problem. My rotors, brakes, and sensors were all replaced. I think my dealer went with the most aggressive solution possible because they felt bad I had to bring it in 2 times for the same problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by martinf79 View Post
No issues on my end (thus far) and I have the M Sport Brakes ... fingers crossed (still in break-in period mind you)...
Fingers crossed for you my friend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by justinnum1 View Post
bringing my car in next week. After all the bullshit i had had to go through with the last car, my patience will be short with this. I am pretty much going to tell them to fix it asap or order me the m performance brakes, and they can pay for them,
I hear ya. That's actually a good idea! I really hope my squealing woes are behind me but if I have to bring it in for a third time, I'll probably ask for the same (i.e., give me the M performance brake rotors, etc.)!
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      11-12-2012, 02:39 AM   #17
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unfortunately if your car was not ordered, there is a good chance it was abused during the break in period. i hate how no sales ,man out there even warns customers about that during a test drive
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      11-12-2012, 08:19 AM   #18
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Brand new brakes or rotors need to be bedded no matter what car they're on. Once the pads glaze , not only do you get a squeal but you aren't getting the proper stopping power you normally would. People who tend to slowly coast heavy traffic with their foot on the brake aren't doing themselves any favor either. BMW's brake systems is VERY easy to disassemble .You can deglaze the pads with a coarse sandpaper and a flat surface.2 bolts & you can have the caliper off and pads pop out from there. All for corners should only take about an hour with simple tools.I believe once the wheels is off its a 10mm socket and then a small pry bar or screw driver to pry the caliper up away from the rotor. No bleeding needed since you didn't undo the lines

Last edited by Reznick; 11-12-2012 at 08:20 AM. Reason: changed info
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      11-12-2012, 10:24 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shahramghs View Post
unfortunately if your car was not ordered, there is a good chance it was abused during the break in period. i hate how no sales ,man out there even warns customers about that during a test drive
My car was ordered. Had less than 8 miles on it when I took delivery.
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      11-12-2012, 12:41 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shahramghs
unfortunately if your car was not ordered, there is a good chance it was abused during the break in period. i hate how no sales ,man out there even warns customers about that during a test drive
I think this depends on how you define abuse. if a salesman asked me to baby the car during a test drive, I'd go somewhere else. It's a test drive, not a test cruise. These are sport sedans, a test drive is worthless without the ability to drive it at least a little spirited, if not a lot, within normal boundaries. Meaning, drive it like you would if you owned it, nothing more, nothing less, irregardless of any "break-in period."
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      11-12-2012, 12:48 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shahramghs View Post
unfortunately if your car was not ordered, there is a good chance it was abused during the break in period. i hate how no sales ,man out there even warns customers about that during a test drive
Mine was ordered and had 9 miles on the odometer when picked up. I've broken in the brakes on this car like any other new car I've had and the bastard squeals like a Banshee at low speed stops.
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      11-12-2012, 05:55 PM   #22
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Quote:
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I think this depends on how you define abuse. if a salesman asked me to baby the car during a test drive, I'd go somewhere else. It's a test drive, not a test cruise. These are sport sedans, a test drive is worthless without the ability to drive it at least a little spirited, if not a lot, within normal boundaries. Meaning, drive it like you would if you owned it, nothing more, nothing less, irregardless of any "break-in period."
A few years back my CA was regretting that he told to drive it as if it were my own. I was testing an E60 M5 with SMG...
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