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      10-05-2014, 06:09 PM   #1
1lyfe
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[DIY] Rear Swaybar replacement

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My phone ran out of batteries during the install so I didnt get much real world pictures. But i pulled some diagrams which is just as good.

Difficulty rating:
6/10
Amount of time taken:
2 hours


BMW ISTA's steps


Tools Required:
1 - Jack
2 - Jacking Pads
2 - Jack Stands
E-torx socket set - in the range of 20-14 (I dont remember exactly which ones, i just tried until i got ones that work)
1 - 16mm socket
1 - 8mm socket
1- Vice Grip

Brief descirption of what needs to be done:
ISTA's steps do work if you are replacing your sway bar with a stock one then you'll be fine. If replacing with an aftermarket, there will be more work.
You will need to lower the rear sub frame of your car in order to install your new sway bar. It will make your life a lot easier to do this first before unbolting the bushings.

Instructions:
Step 1:
Jack your car up from the rear central jacking point (on the diff).
Beware: do not jack your car from the rear diff cover or you will break it.

Step 2:
Using jack stands and jacking pads rest lower your car onto the rear 2 side jacking points.

Step 3:
Remove rear wheels

Step 4:
Unbolt Sway link from sway bar (both sides)
I have highlighted the sway link here stolen from Yuqi's thread:

This bolt is free spinning so it is tricky if it is your first time doing this
To do this you use a vice grip, clamp it down on the opposite side of the bolt to stop it from spinning.
Unbolt the 16mm bolt.

Step 5:
unbolt the front half of the fender liner with 8mm socked. Your goal is to gain access to the sub frame mounts which is behind the fender liner by the rocker panel.

For the remaining steps we can refer to this diagram:


Step 6:
Refer to point 1
This is the part you need access to behind the fender liner
there are two e-trox bolts here. unbolt them with the 16 e-torx socket (both sides)

Step 7:
Refer to point 2
These bolts holds the front half of the sub frame to your car. They are also extremely long. unbolt with 18 e-torx socket (both sides)

Step 8:
Be extremely cautious with this step
Slowly lower your jack and the front of of the sub frame will begin to lower.
WATCH YOUR BRAKE LINES AND LOWER FIREWALL.
I lowered it to a point where it just barely touched the lower firewall and the brake lines were extended but not to full length.

Step 9:
Refer to point 3
unbolt 2 e-etorx 16 bolts holding the sway bar bushings in place. (both sides)
looks like this:


Step 10:
Take the OEM sway bar out. I have no good description of how to do this... just wiggle and pull the bar out towards the driver side.

Step 11:
Feed new one back in bolt bushings back in.
Jack up the rear diff, bolt the rear subframe back on (all subfgrame bolts are 65 ft-lbs torque.


Step 12:
Sit back, relax and have a drink with mr. walker
__________________
JB4 | H&R Front and Rear Sway bar | Front Strut Bar | MS8 | NBT, 6WA, PDC, 3AG Retrofit | Full M-Tech Bumpers | 335 Brakes | BC Coils
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      02-01-2017, 04:49 PM   #2
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      02-03-2017, 02:17 PM   #3
M47
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^ Are you planning to get sway bars?
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      02-03-2017, 02:20 PM   #4
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I am planning on the rear one yes
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      02-03-2017, 02:35 PM   #5
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Which rear did you get? What car model do you have?
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      02-03-2017, 02:38 PM   #6
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I have a 435d xdrive. This has a 12mm rear arb. I am fitting a 15mm rear arb from the m135i.
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      03-23-2017, 07:18 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1lyfe View Post
My phone ran out of batteries during the install so I didnt get much real world pictures. But i pulled some diagrams which is just as good.

Difficulty rating:
6/10
Amount of time taken:
2 hours


BMW ISTA's steps


Tools Required:
1 - Jack
2 - Jacking Pads
2 - Jack Stands
E-torx socket set - in the range of 20-14 (I dont remember exactly which ones, i just tried until i got ones that work)
1 - 16mm socket
1 - 8mm socket
1- Vice Grip

Brief descirption of what needs to be done:
ISTA's steps do work if you are replacing your sway bar with a stock one then you'll be fine. If replacing with an aftermarket, there will be more work.
You will need to lower the rear sub frame of your car in order to install your new sway bar. It will make your life a lot easier to do this first before unbolting the bushings.

Instructions:
Step 1:
Jack your car up from the rear central jacking point (on the diff).
Beware: do not jack your car from the rear diff cover or you will break it.

Step 2:
Using jack stands and jacking pads rest lower your car onto the rear 2 side jacking points.

Step 3:
Remove rear wheels

Step 4:
Unbolt Sway link from sway bar (both sides)
I have highlighted the sway link here stolen from Yuqi's thread:

This bolt is free spinning so it is tricky if it is your first time doing this
To do this you use a vice grip, clamp it down on the opposite side of the bolt to stop it from spinning.
Unbolt the 16mm bolt.

Step 5:
unbolt the front half of the fender liner with 8mm socked. Your goal is to gain access to the sub frame mounts which is behind the fender liner by the rocker panel.

For the remaining steps we can refer to this diagram:


Step 6:
Refer to point 1
This is the part you need access to behind the fender liner
there are two e-trox bolts here. unbolt them with the 16 e-torx socket (both sides)

Step 7:
Refer to point 2
These bolts holds the front half of the sub frame to your car. They are also extremely long. unbolt with 18 e-torx socket (both sides)

Step 8:
Be extremely cautious with this step
Slowly lower your jack and the front of of the sub frame will begin to lower.
WATCH YOUR BRAKE LINES AND LOWER FIREWALL.
I lowered it to a point where it just barely touched the lower firewall and the brake lines were extended but not to full length.

Step 9:
Refer to point 3
unbolt 2 e-etorx 16 bolts holding the sway bar bushings in place. (both sides)
looks like this:


Step 10:
Take the OEM sway bar out. I have no good description of how to do this... just wiggle and pull the bar out towards the driver side.

Step 11:
Feed new one back in bolt bushings back in.
Jack up the rear diff, bolt the rear subframe back on (all subfgrame bolts are 65 ft-lbs torque.


Step 12:
Sit back, relax and have a drink with mr. walker
I've attached a set of ISTAD Rheingold documents for front and rear suspension work (to include sway bar removal and installation).
Attached Images
File Type: pdf ISTAD Front and Rear Suspension v3.pdf (6.50 MB, 39 views)
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