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      08-18-2016, 01:57 PM   #1
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Angry A cautionary tale..

Today I turned a small problem into a big problem -

I have blocked washers so was getting ready to strip the wheel arch in order to clean the tank. First I jacked up the rear in order to get a stand under the front. I'd just got the car clear of the stand and moved to put the stand under the front when I heard a horrifying crunch...



Not really sure what happened - my drive points down hill (to the right), I had the jack at 90 degrees to the hill, I checked every few pumps of the jack that everything was secure and hadn't travelled too far laterally... The only thing I can think of is that I either jacked the last one up too vigorously and the car rocked, or the little pucks I have for the jack points (vulcanised rubber I think) couldn't take it and slipped.

One very unhappy chappy!

So that'll be a new sill, new black thing behind the sill, and a door crease to sort out.

What an idiot I feel! I phoned my dad to let off steam and he seems to think it's silly to jack up and use an axle stand, just jack up and take the wheel off... That goes against everything I've ever heard..
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      08-18-2016, 02:01 PM   #2
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Oh shit mate, what a mess!

I usually use the jack and just place the axle stand under the sill in case the jack fails.

Also you shouldn't do it on any sort of uneven or sloped surface.
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      08-18-2016, 02:09 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teaston View Post
Oh shit mate, what a mess!

I usually use the jack and just place the axle stand under the sill in case the jack fails.

Also you shouldn't do it on any sort of uneven or sloped surface.
Why didn't I think of that. When I was changing winter/summer wheels over, I looked on youtube and everybody seemed to recommend jacking up the rear until the front was clear of the stand. Lesson learned.

There's not much of a slope, 10cm - 15cm over 3 metres - had nowhere else to do it unfortunately.
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      08-18-2016, 02:14 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smc90 View Post
Why didn't I think of that. When I was changing winter/summer wheels over, I looked on youtube and everybody seemed to recommend jacking up the rear until the front was clear of the stand. Lesson learned.

There's not much of a slope, 10cm - 15cm over 3 metres - had nowhere else to do it unfortunately.
If i'm just changing a wheel and not doing anything under the car (brakes, suspension etc) I don't even bother with the axle stand, worst that could happen is the car falls on the brake disc and might need a new disc.
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      08-18-2016, 02:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teaston View Post
If i'm just changing a wheel and not doing anything under the car (brakes, suspension etc) I don't even bother with the axle stand, worst that could happen is the car falls on the brake disc and might need a new disc.
Oh well, I suppose this is how you become experienced Take on other peoples' advice and FFS don't do it again
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      08-18-2016, 02:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smc90
Quote:
Originally Posted by teaston View Post
If i'm just changing a wheel and not doing anything under the car (brakes, suspension etc) I don't even bother with the axle stand, worst that could happen is the car falls on the brake disc and might need a new disc.
Oh well, I suppose this is how you become experienced Take on other peoples' advice and FFS don't do it again
Yep certainly is, i've f'd up all sorts of things on cars in the past that i can now do so simply!
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      08-18-2016, 02:46 PM   #7
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Damn man, not good!
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      08-18-2016, 03:14 PM   #8
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Flippin heck. That's certainly done it
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      08-18-2016, 03:19 PM   #9
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Nightmare. Feel your pain!

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      08-18-2016, 03:26 PM   #10
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man that sucks. I did something similar in one of my old cars....driving in the snow, didnt notice a parking lot curb.

good news is.....its only the plastic side skirt and not a piece of metal! easy and cheap to replace. you can even replace the part yourself and save some money (just dont put it up on jack stands )
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      08-18-2016, 03:27 PM   #11
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My drive has a slope and I jack the car on it, only 1 wheel at a time, making sure I have wheel chocks in front of all non-jacked wheels.

If you jack one of your rear wheels you are relying on one locked contact patch remaining in contact with the ground as the only means of stopping the car moving. This is not safe, as you've found out.
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      08-18-2016, 03:27 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carzaddict View Post
man that sucks. I did something similar in one of my old cars....driving in the snow, didnt notice a parking lot curb.

good news is.....its only the plastic side skirt and not a piece of metal! easy and cheap to replace. you can even replace the part yourself and save some money (just dont put it up on jack stands )
Did you notice the bent door?
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      08-18-2016, 03:28 PM   #13
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Ouch, sorry to see that. You must be kicking yourself.

Personally, I jack the front jacking point (after loosening the wheels nuts), take the front wheel off, and slide a jack stand under the front control arm bush (at the chassis end). This ensures as little lifting energy on the jack as possible. Just take care not to get into a dangerous position with the wheel off before the stand is in place.
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      08-18-2016, 06:00 PM   #14
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Look at it this way

It didn't fall while you were working under it

That would have been way worse

I new sill. But of bodywork.

It's only your pride that's damaged.
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      08-18-2016, 07:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smc90 View Post
Today I turned a small problem into a big problem -

I have blocked washers so was getting ready to strip the wheel arch in order to clean the tank. ....
If you'd had been using BMW washer fluid they probably wouldn't have been blocked in the first place. Did you put cheap stuff in?
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      08-19-2016, 01:23 AM   #16
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Sore one mate. That could need a new door.
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      08-19-2016, 01:32 AM   #17
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Oh dear, sorry to hear of your mishap.

You mention the 'black thing behind the sill'. Do you have any pictures?

With regards the sill, it's actually the sill applique that is damaged (the actual sill is the part with the holes and key-slots in your image). Should be a very straightforward replacement, aside from getting a paint match.

As for the door, pulling / pushing out the crease should be relatively straightforward assuming ease of access (can you get to the inside lower area of the door once the door card is removed?). However the bottom of the door is hemmed over and sealed, therefore if you do get it repaired check that the hem sealer isn't broken otherwise you could be looking at both a water leak and corrosion issue down the line.
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      08-19-2016, 03:13 AM   #18
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I was about to start a thread of my own cautionary tale on the same subject, but yours beats mine.

That water bottle causes the problems. Or to be exact the wrong screen cleaner.

My car is 8 months old. I don't ever remember putting anything other than water in it, but we do have Halfords screen wash lying around so maybe I put a dose in at some point.

The dreaded blue gunge has been mentioned here before, but I was not aware of it.

My jets had been very slow for the last week, so yesterday I had a few hours and thought I'd take a look why. What a job! I don't recommend it to anyone.

The bottle was immaculately clean apart from a thin film of blue gunge around the filter.

So if you don't want to waste 4 hours of your life or risk the fate of the OP. NEVER USE HALFORDS SCREEN WASH!
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      08-19-2016, 07:53 AM   #19
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I helped a mate of mine with this problem, clogged screen wash.

What I did was fed a hose pipe with red hot water into the reservoir, left it running while he operated the washers. At the same time I used a compressed airline on the washer jet to blow back the crud.

After 10 minutes or so it was all clear with no disassembly required.
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      08-19-2016, 07:59 AM   #20
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OOOH Dear, What a bummer!
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      08-19-2016, 09:50 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dopper99 View Post
If you'd had been using BMW washer fluid they probably wouldn't have been blocked in the first place. Did you put cheap stuff in?
I know that's the obvious conclusion to jump to but it's not the case here. I've had the car 15 months and had only used BMW screenwash in that time. This summer I switched to Sonax extreme which is a decent screenwash, and certainly not cheap. Wary of reports of gunked up washers, I waited till the screenwash was empty, then ran a couple of gallons of water through it before switching over. After switching over, I've had one full use of the the screenwash (i.e. 3-4 litres or whatever it takes) and refilled a few weeks a go, so I'm not sure why it's blocked up now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant_7 View Post
Oh dear, sorry to hear of your mishap.

You mention the 'black thing behind the sill'. Do you have any pictures?

With regards the sill, it's actually the sill applique that is damaged (the actual sill is the part with the holes and key-slots in your image). Should be a very straightforward replacement, aside from getting a paint match.

As for the door, pulling / pushing out the crease should be relatively straightforward assuming ease of access (can you get to the inside lower area of the door once the door card is removed?). However the bottom of the door is hemmed over and sealed, therefore if you do get it repaired check that the hem sealer isn't broken otherwise you could be looking at both a water leak and corrosion issue down the line.
Thanks for the lesson on terminology - the black thing is part 5 on here
I've been a bit lucky finding the sill applique - got one already painted and on its way. I will have the sill applique fixed in no time, just leaving the door crease.

I got prices for the door today (335) and mentioned the hem sealer, they said they're aware of the issue and will make sure it's ok. I will also check when they've finished - thanks for the heads up on that one.
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      08-19-2016, 11:19 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smc90
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopper99 View Post
If you'd had been using BMW washer fluid they probably wouldn't have been blocked in the first place. Did you put cheap stuff in?
I know that's the obvious conclusion to jump to but it's not the case here. I've had the car 15 months and had only used BMW screenwash in that time. This summer I switched to Sonax extreme which is a decent screenwash, and certainly not cheap. Wary of reports of gunked up washers, I waited till the screenwash was empty, then ran a couple of gallons of water through it before switching over. After switching over, I've had one full use of the the screenwash (i.e. 3-4 litres or whatever it takes) and refilled a few weeks a go, so I'm not sure why it's blocked up now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant_7 View Post
Oh dear, sorry to hear of your mishap.

You mention the 'black thing behind the sill'. Do you have any pictures?

With regards the sill, it's actually the sill applique that is damaged (the actual sill is the part with the holes and key-slots in your image). Should be a very straightforward replacement, aside from getting a paint match.

As for the door, pulling / pushing out the crease should be relatively straightforward assuming ease of access (can you get to the inside lower area of the door once the door card is removed?). However the bottom of the door is hemmed over and sealed, therefore if you do get it repaired check that the hem sealer isn't broken otherwise you could be looking at both a water leak and corrosion issue down the line.
Thanks for the lesson on terminology - the black thing is part 5 on here
I've been a bit lucky finding the sill applique - got one already painted and on its way. I will have the sill applique fixed in no time, just leaving the door crease.

I got prices for the door today (335) and mentioned the hem sealer, they said they're aware of the issue and will make sure it's ok. I will also check when they've finished - thanks for the heads up on that one.
Could it have gone in for a service and BMW topped it up with BMW fluid?

My understanding is there are two types of screenwash, they are not compatible. Use one type only and no issues. BMW seem to use the less common type.
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