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      03-01-2013, 02:31 PM   #23
hollandog
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2013 328i xDrive M-sport | MSRP $46k | 36m/10k | $0 down | $461/m tax included
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      03-01-2013, 11:43 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by hollandog View Post
2013 328i xDrive M-sport | MSRP $46k | 36m/10k | $0 down | $461/m tax included
Details???

$461/mo tax in
$0 at signing?
$46k msp?

please tell us more
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      03-02-2013, 12:10 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kromix

Details???

$461/mo tax in
$0 at signing?
$46k msp?

please tell us more
msrp 46045
$0 down.
$1900 due at sign. first month. bank fee 725. DMV doc fee and tax for the $3000 rebate I had.
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      03-02-2013, 06:55 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hollandog
Quote:
Originally Posted by kromix

Details???

$461/mo tax in
$0 at signing?
$46k msp?

please tell us more
msrp 46045
$0 down.
$1900 due at sign. first month. bank fee 725. DMV doc fee and tax for the $3000 rebate I had.
News flash....$3k rebate = "Down payment" your $1900 = "Down Payment."

NOW, what most likely happened is the $3k rebate was applied to cap cost reduction unless you're stating the $3k rebate covered "fees" in which case, the balance of the $3k or $1100 would have been applied as CCR which IS "down payment"

This thread is stupid because the unknowns such as residual at time of lease inception, set by the lender and money factor, determined by credit & marked up by the dealer among other things....
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      03-06-2013, 05:30 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertSmokeBBQ View Post
News flash....$3k rebate = "Down payment" your $1900 = "Down Payment."

NOW, what most likely happened is the $3k rebate was applied to cap cost reduction unless you're stating the $3k rebate covered "fees" in which case, the balance of the $3k or $1100 would have been applied as CCR which IS "down payment"

This thread is stupid because the unknowns such as residual at time of lease inception, set by the lender and money factor, determined by credit & marked up by the dealer among other things....
Fees are fees. downpayment is downpayment.
downpayment is what you put to reduce the cap cost.

There are fees that you can't roll into the monthly payment like DMV fees, doc fee, first month etc.

Now. $3k rebate was applied to cap cost reduction but i paid $0 down out of my pocket. Depends on state, some do not allow you to apply rebates to due at sign.

$0 down and $0 due at sign are two different things.
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Last edited by hollandog; 03-06-2013 at 05:36 PM.
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      03-07-2013, 02:02 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertSmokeBBQ View Post
Better question is WHEN was lease inception. If it was a new 2012, it was probably late 2011 or early 2012, THATS where the number comes from. Everyone's missing that, the question is, what was the residual/money factor/dealer cash/loyalty cash etc
2012 328i (June 2012 production), Leased on Nov 23rd 2012. $413.77 + $37.24 tax = $450.98/month...



Dont know if you can see it very well...

-Premium Package
-Technology Package
-Heated Seats
-Mineral Grey Metalic

I went to Center BMW in Van Nuys CA.
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      03-07-2013, 06:31 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hollandog
Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertSmokeBBQ View Post
News flash....$3k rebate = "Down payment" your $1900 = "Down Payment."

NOW, what most likely happened is the $3k rebate was applied to cap cost reduction unless you're stating the $3k rebate covered "fees" in which case, the balance of the $3k or $1100 would have been applied as CCR which IS "down payment"

This thread is stupid because the unknowns such as residual at time of lease inception, set by the lender and money factor, determined by credit & marked up by the dealer among other things....
Fees are fees. downpayment is downpayment.
downpayment is what you put to reduce the cap cost.

There are fees that you can't roll into the monthly payment like DMV fees, doc fee, first month etc.

Now. $3k rebate was applied to cap cost reduction but i paid $0 down out of my pocket. Depends on state, some do not allow you to apply rebates to due at sign.

$0 down and $0 due at sign are two different things.
Meh, as a 13yr veteran of the car business both selling and managing ill disagree with you. For instance, I rolled all of MY fees into my payment so your argument is flawed...
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      03-07-2013, 01:35 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertSmokeBBQ View Post
Meh, as a 13yr veteran of the car business both selling and managing ill disagree with you. For instance, I rolled all of MY fees into my payment so your argument is flawed...
not all states work like AZ.

every dealers here advertise $0 down. does it mean $0 due to sign? no.
there are reasons why they are called differently.
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      03-07-2013, 11:54 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwampCat84
Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertSmokeBBQ View Post
Better question is WHEN was lease inception. If it was a new 2012, it was probably late 2011 or early 2012, THATS where the number comes from. Everyone's missing that, the question is, what was the residual/money factor/dealer cash/loyalty cash etc
2012 328i (June 2012 production), Leased on Nov 23rd 2012. $413.77 + $37.24 tax = $450.98/month...



Dont know if you can see it very well...

-Premium Package
-Technology Package
-Heated Seats
-Mineral Grey Metalic

I went to Center BMW in Van Nuys CA.
See, THIS is useful info... Although Money factor plays a big part as well, everyone has different credit ratings. At least this enables others to compare apples to apples... I'm at $653/mo for 39mos, $0 out of pocket, $1500 rebate applied, 15k/mi year, Dec 20th 2012 Purchase date. 2013 328i M-Sport with an MSRP around $48k plus grills & tint
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      03-08-2013, 08:21 AM   #32
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What is your take on national/dealer lease specials? They seem to offer low monthly payments but want high cash due at signing. Are they any good or just a way for dealers to scam us on a so-called "deal"?
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      03-08-2013, 08:56 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan9095
What is your take on national/dealer lease specials? They seem to offer low monthly payments but want high cash due at signing. Are they any good or just a way for dealers to scam us on a so-called "deal"?
It's not a scam, it's a prefab notional lease put together to highlight the payment aspect above all else. The reality is, it's usually based on a base MSRP before options because dealers can theoretically order them that way. National offers are always based on "ideal" circumstances, which include perfect credit, low annual miles, cheaply equipped cars and the customer having both fees and cap cost reduction to reach the target payment.
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      03-19-2013, 04:25 PM   #34
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Got quoted
410 a month(no tax)
1700 out of pocket
36 yr x 15k mi a year
39500 msrp(base) 37,000 purchase price
Includes 1750 in rebates
Yay or nay?
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      03-19-2013, 04:33 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by krnnerdboy View Post
Got quoted
410 a month(no tax)
1700 out of pocket
36 yr x 15k mi a year
39500 msrp(base) 37,000 purchase price
Includes 1750 in rebates
Yay or nay?
sounds decent, I wouldn't put that much out of pocket though. Here's my info:

MSRP: $38,645
Negotiated Price: $36,645 (500 over invoice)
36 Months
10,000 mi/year
.00130 MF

Incentives:
$500 USAA
$750 Loyalty
$1000 3 Series Sedan Incentive

Base Payment: $387.85
Total Payment $415.00 (Tax included 7% FL)

Total Due Signing: $653.76 for Registration etc all fees and includes the 1st month payment.

I think i got a good deal....
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      03-19-2013, 04:37 PM   #36
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3yr/10k miles per year
487/month
Paying the fees and taxes up front. Nothing additional down.
I think the MSRP was just under 51k with my options.


328xi Alpine White
Tech package
Premium
Lighting
Cold Weather
Drivers assistance
HK stereo
Alarm

Hope I did ok. I was happy with it. First BMW
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      03-19-2013, 04:37 PM   #37
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Comes out about even with your deal considering 15k mi at $.16 is 2400/36=$67 difference a month

Looks like I may jump on this deal
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      03-19-2013, 04:45 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by krnnerdboy View Post
Comes out about even with your deal considering 15k mi at $.16 is 2400/36=$67 difference a month

Looks like I may jump on this deal
Cant you pay more and keep the down in your bank and pay the extra that way you don't lose the money in the event of a loss?
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      03-19-2013, 06:07 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kromix
Quote:
Originally Posted by krnnerdboy View Post
Comes out about even with your deal considering 15k mi at $.16 is 2400/36=$67 difference a month

Looks like I may jump on this deal
Cant you pay more and keep the down in your bank and pay the extra that way you don't lose the money in the event of a loss?
That's a good idea. Didn't even think about it. I'm at the dealer as we speak... Thanks
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      03-20-2013, 08:18 PM   #40
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Btw, I did end up getting the 328i

409 a month(no tax)
2000 down
36 month 15k mi a year
60% residual
.0013 money factor
780 fico score
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      03-20-2013, 08:26 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by krnnerdboy View Post
Btw, I did end up getting the 328i

409 a month(no tax)
2000 down
36 month 15k mi a year
60% residual
.0013 money factor
780 fico score
Nice congrats, i'll still say as many will that putting money down on a lease is bad.

Why?

You total loss the car for some reason you lose your $2000.

Keep it in the bank and pay a higher payment.

And if you MUST part with $2k put it towards MSDs not a cap reduction.

Congrats, enjoy the car, live, learn, and next time don't put money down on a lease, pay a higher payment and keep the money aside :P
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      03-20-2013, 08:37 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kromix
Quote:
Originally Posted by krnnerdboy View Post
Btw, I did end up getting the 328i

409 a month(no tax)
2000 down
36 month 15k mi a year
60% residual
.0013 money factor
780 fico score
Nice congrats, i'll still say as many will that putting money down on a lease is bad.

Why?

You total loss the car for some reason you lose your $2000.

Keep it in the bank and pay a higher payment.

And if you MUST part with $2k put it towards MSDs not a cap reduction.

Congrats, enjoy the car, live, learn, and next time don't put money down on a lease, pay a higher payment and keep the money aside :P
Indeed, your right. I had no idea that leases come with gap insurance. And by the time I got your message the paper work was signed by the wife. Ill definitely remember that when its time for my m4! Once again thanks for the heads up. This was my first lease....
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      03-21-2013, 09:37 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kromix View Post
Nice congrats, i'll still say as many will that putting money down on a lease is bad.

Why?

You total loss the car for some reason you lose your $2000.

Keep it in the bank and pay a higher payment.

And if you MUST part with $2k put it towards MSDs not a cap reduction.

Congrats, enjoy the car, live, learn, and next time don't put money down on a lease, pay a higher payment and keep the money aside :P
I don't understand this logic. It's personal preference of keep money in the bank or putting it towards a lower monthly payment.

First of all you shouldn't be worried about totaling your brand new car immediately and possibly losing your down payment. You have gap insurance to cover the loss if a rarity like that should occur. Second, it's really just a mental thing. If you put $2000 down and pay a lower number instead of putting $0 down and paying higher you end up paying the same thing in the end. I'd rather have a lower monthly payment but that's just me. I don't see how it's a "bad" idea to put money down on a lease.
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      03-21-2013, 09:56 AM   #44
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I don't understand this logic. It's personal preference of keep money in the bank or putting it towards a lower monthly payment.

First of all you shouldn't be worried about totaling your brand new car immediately and possibly losing your down payment. You have gap insurance to cover the loss if a rarity like that should occur. Second, it's really just a mental thing. If you put $2000 down and pay a lower number instead of putting $0 down and paying higher you end up paying the same thing in the end. I'd rather have a lower monthly payment but that's just me. I don't see how it's a "bad" idea to put money down on a lease.
I'll explain again, yes GAP insurance covers you, but it doesn't refund your down payment. It's personal preference, yes, but not financially sound. Which is why I'm making the suggestion to you for next time. Money down is money lost in a total loss.

So if I lease a car $0 down, and you lease a car with $2000 down (cap cost reduction), BOTH Cars GAP insurance will cover the total of the car, but you won't get a refund check for $2,000 or $5,000 or whatever amount you put down. That money is lost.

Nobody leases a car expecting to have a total loss obviously, but shit happens? Or are you guaranteeing there is 0% chance this occurs to you?

I rather have a higher monthly, put the money aside and pay towards the higher monthly so that I still feel like the monthly is lower, so that in the event of a catastrophic loss, I don't lose whatever money I haven't paid yet which I put aside.

Does this make sense?

Like you said, the end result is the same, money down or not in total payments, but the middle result isn't should you have a total loss. I keep whatever is left of my $2k going towards each payment in my bank where you lost it all.
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