BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST - View Single Post - DIY: Morimoto Projectors & Custom Angel Eyes Retrofit

squidlyboy · 05-30-2015, 01:42 AM

Disclaimer: What you do with this information is up to you. I am in no way responsible for what happens to your headlights or car. This is the way i plan on hooking up my lights, but it doesn't mean you should also. Check the information and verify it to your satisfaction before wiring up anything

Here is the Wiring Diagram for retrofitting a single BMW F30 halogen headlight for two Mini-H1 projectors / 35w Ballasts + 2 DTM-style Corona LED rings. You will be duplicating this for both headlights, so it will result in a quad bi-xenon setup. All the OEM bulbs will be removed with the exception of the turn-signal/side marker bulb. This means low-beam, high-beam, DRL, and parking lamp bulbs - all gone.

The two pics below are of the headlight connector going into the passenger (right) side headlight. The notes below are for a single headlight. But you'll be wiring both headlights the same way. The wiring and connections should be done in the housing as much as possible to provide the cleanest looking solution as possible. Depending on what ballasts you use (slim-line or otherwise), you may or may not be able to stick those inside the headlight housing.

Both DTM Acrylic LED rings red (power) wires will be connected to the DRL(#5) and parking lamp(#12) power wires together
- The new DTM rings will be on during the day (when OEM DRL is on), and also at night (when OEM parking lamp is on). But the DRL and Parking Lamps are never on at the same time. One will be on when the other is off and vice versa. When one is powered, the other is an open-circuit (dead wire).
- The current draw on both DTM LED rings (as I measured it with a clamp meter) is ~0.33A, which is about 4W (12V x 0.33A). The Parking Lamp power lead (6W), which is the lower rated of the two, should be able to power both LED rings at the same time together safely.
- You should do your own current draw/usage measurement on your own setup to make sure, especially if you are using different LEDs.
- Bienarcis and Blueaudi18 both wired their DTM rings like this.
A standard Bi-Xenon projector setup (one projector in each headlight) should have the ballast power(red) wire hooked up to the Low-Beam (#3) wire and the ballast ground (black) wire hooked up to the Ground wire (#2)
- The current draw from a single (as i measured one of my) 35W ballast unit peaks at startup around ~6A (72W) for 5-10 seconds to ignite the xenon bulb, then reaches steady state at around ~3.5A (42W). The OEM halogen low-beam is rated for 55W.
- If you want to be conservative, use a relay instead of hooking up directly to the low-beam wire to power the ballast. The downside is that you'll just have more wires to deal with.
- You should do your own current draw/usage measurement on your own setup to confirm, especially if you are using different ballasts/HIDs.
A quad Bi-Xenon projector setup will have two projectors and two 35W ballasts in each headlight and should utilize a relay
- Two projectors being powered by two 35W ballasts simultaneously (as i measured them with a clamp meter) will draw a peak current of ~12A (144W) at startup for about 5-10 seconds, then reach a steady state current draw of ~7A (84W).
- The relay draws power/current for both 35w ballasts directly from the battery and the wire gauge for it should be appropriately sized. A splitter Y-cable may be needed to wire this relay harness to both projectors. TRS has a ton of these relay harnesses, Y-splitters, and other cables.
- The low-beam wire (#3) will just be used as the signal/switch to turn on the relay
- You should do your own current draw/usage measurement on your own setup to confirm, especially if you are using different ballasts/HIDs.
The solenoid/shutters for the high-beam functionality do not draw significant current and the high-beam power wire (#6) rated at 55w is more than ample to power both solenoids.
- Connect the solenoid power (red) wire to the oem high beam wire (#6).
- Connect the solenoid ground (black) wire to the common ground wire (#2).

If you guys find any errors in the logic above, or if i'm missing anything, by all means, let me know, and i will update it.
.

05-30-2015, 01:42 AM	#176
squidlyboy Major 568 Rep 1,035 Posts Drives: 2014 Alpine White 328i M-Sport Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Chandler, Arizona iTrader: (0)	F30 Halogen Headlight Wiring Diagram for Quad Bi-X Setup Disclaimer: What you do with this information is up to you. I am in no way responsible for what happens to your headlights or car. This is the way i plan on hooking up my lights, but it doesn't mean you should also. Check the information and verify it to your satisfaction before wiring up anything Here is the Wiring Diagram for retrofitting a single BMW F30 halogen headlight for two Mini-H1 projectors / 35w Ballasts + 2 DTM-style Corona LED rings. You will be duplicating this for both headlights, so it will result in a quad bi-xenon setup. All the OEM bulbs will be removed with the exception of the turn-signal/side marker bulb. This means low-beam, high-beam, DRL, and parking lamp bulbs - all gone. The two pics below are of the headlight connector going into the passenger (right) side headlight. The notes below are for a single headlight. But you'll be wiring both headlights the same way. The wiring and connections should be done in the housing as much as possible to provide the cleanest looking solution as possible. Depending on what ballasts you use (slim-line or otherwise), you may or may not be able to stick those inside the headlight housing. Both DTM Acrylic LED rings red (power) wires will be connected to the DRL(#5) and parking lamp(#12) power wires together The new DTM rings will be on during the day (when OEM DRL is on), and also at night (when OEM parking lamp is on). But the DRL and Parking Lamps are never on at the same time. One will be on when the other is off and vice versa. When one is powered, the other is an open-circuit (dead wire). The current draw on both DTM LED rings (as I measured it with a clamp meter) is ~0.33A, which is about 4W (12V x 0.33A). The Parking Lamp power lead (6W), which is the lower rated of the two, should be able to power both LED rings at the same time together safely. You should do your own current draw/usage measurement on your own setup to make sure, especially if you are using different LEDs. Bienarcis and Blueaudi18 both wired their DTM rings like this. A standard Bi-Xenon projector setup (one projector in each headlight) should have the ballast power(red) wire hooked up to the Low-Beam (#3) wire and the ballast ground (black) wire hooked up to the Ground wire (#2) The current draw from a single (as i measured one of my) 35W ballast unit peaks at startup around ~6A (72W) for 5-10 seconds to ignite the xenon bulb, then reaches steady state at around ~3.5A (42W). The OEM halogen low-beam is rated for 55W. If you want to be conservative, use a relay instead of hooking up directly to the low-beam wire to power the ballast. The downside is that you'll just have more wires to deal with. You should do your own current draw/usage measurement on your own setup to confirm, especially if you are using different ballasts/HIDs. A quad Bi-Xenon projector setup will have two projectors and two 35W ballasts in each headlight and should utilize a relay Two projectors being powered by two 35W ballasts simultaneously (as i measured them with a clamp meter) will draw a peak current of ~12A (144W) at startup for about 5-10 seconds, then reach a steady state current draw of ~7A (84W). The relay draws power/current for both 35w ballasts directly from the battery and the wire gauge for it should be appropriately sized. A splitter Y-cable may be needed to wire this relay harness to both projectors. TRS has a ton of these relay harnesses, Y-splitters, and other cables. The low-beam wire (#3) will just be used as the signal/switch to turn on the relay You should do your own current draw/usage measurement on your own setup to confirm, especially if you are using different ballasts/HIDs. The solenoid/shutters for the high-beam functionality do not draw significant current and the high-beam power wire (#6) rated at 55w is more than ample to power both solenoids. Connect the solenoid power (red) wire to the oem high beam wire (#6). Connect the solenoid ground (black) wire to the common ground wire (#2). If you guys find any errors in the logic above, or if i'm missing anything, by all means, let me know, and i will update it. . Attached Images Last edited by squidlyboy; 06-17-2015 at 02:17 AM..
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