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      07-09-2023, 10:46 AM   #2
yupetc
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Drives: 2015 X535i
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Houston, TX

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It's similar enough, on the F series you'll be best off by suspending the top side and drop the subframe. On the E90 RWD, I usually can get it done by having the subframe come down by 6-8-inches (I do this by buying some extra long bolts that has the same thred pattern as the OEM subframe bolts.) F-series subframe has more welded cross bars, so you'll fight against more stuff in the way and I've never had success without the subframe completely coming off.

Another tip, on dropping the subframe, you can elect to knock out the ball joints from the steering, thrust arm, and trail arms. By doing so, when you put everything back, you may survive without having to do an alignment immediately. It's still highly recommended to do an alignment because a few undetectable degrees off you'll be eating the tire wear pattern. Just rememeber to bolt up all your ball joints while the suspension is under full load, 80Nm on those 24mm 12-point socket will do. (If you don't subject the suspension under load while you tighten up the ball joints, you'll deal with two problems: 1) the ball joint stud may spin loose, and that's not ideal, but okay to live with. 2) The suspension may have pinchy squeaky noise, and if that's not addressed soon, the rubber joints will tear.

Hope all this helps.
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2015 X535i - CP Piston, Manley Rod, ACL/King bearings, MILVs VRSF full charge Pipe, Wagner FMIC, Hybrid Turbo, MHD2+ VRSF DP, UR Front/Rear Sway Bars, Eibach springs, Bilstein B6
2015 MINI COOPER - Mahle Pistons, Max Rods, BMS intake, CTS charge pipe, Wagner Intercooler, ByteTronik Tune, VRSF DP
2017 540i - MHD2+, VRSF DP, TU Pump
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