I finished up my LED installation today, after over a month of experimentation to figure out what works, and what doesn't. First, the bulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These come in H7 base to fit the headlights, H8/9/11 to fit the fogs. No fans, so that's one less thing that can fail. They include a canbus harness, so they don't throw any warnings. You can find the exact same product sold under at least five different names, including Weisslicht, so shop for the best price. The H7 and H8/9/11 don't sell at the same price, so shop between those versions as well.
They're not plug and play. No LED is. You have to code out the cold and warm checks, whether you have canbus harnesses and/or resistors or not. The cold and warm checks will cause the LEDs to periodically blink. You don't see it with halogens, but with LEDs you do. But don't fear coding. I did, and put off learning how to code for a year until I had the LEDs and found out that coding isn't optional. But coding isn't difficult, it just looks that way, so go for it. And you can code other nice stuff, like getting rid of that stupid warning message every time you start the car.
Something happens with the fogs that doesn't with the high or low beams. As soon as you plug them in they flicker rapidly, at a very low intensity, even when the ignition is off. If this can be coded out I wasn't able to find the code location that would do it. A resistor does stop it. Don't buy the usual 6 ohm 50 watt resistors, though. I found that a 15 ohm resistor stopped the flickering, and 15 ohms burns up a lot less current and runs a lot cooler than a 6 ohm resistor. I used these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They install before the canbus, connecting the hot and ground leads. You can find plenty of instructions and videos on the subject.
The high and low beams don't have this flicker, so they don't need resistors.
There is an issue with the high beams, though. The mushroom shaped heat sink on the back of the assembly won't fit past one of the parts in the lamp. The fix is to cut away enough of the heat sink on one side so it will fit. The heat sink can be removed from the assembly (be sure to loosen the set screw first), and being aluminum it's reasonably easy to cut with a metal cutting abrasive blade, even a hacksaw. Put it back onto the assembly, lock it in the right position to fit into the socket with the set screw.
Installing the high beams is easy, there's an access under the hood. The fogs aren't bad, but it's best to jack the car, pull the wheel and remove the fender liner. The lows are a royal PITA. There's no access under the hood, and working though the access in the wheel well you can't see what you're doing. It's all by feel, and there's barely enough room to fit your hand inside the lamp housing. I love me bimmer, but they really screwed up here. I fixed it with a Dremel rotary tool equipped with an abrasive blade, which I used to put an access under the hood the way BMW should have. I cut off the top of the housing over the low beam, making it easy to get at things. You still insert the bulb from the wheel well, then finish installing it from under the hood.
The cover that's created by cutting the top off the lamp has to be sealed water tight when you put it back in place. That's a simple job using some vinyl mastic, the same stuff used for sound reduction on panels.
The metal brackets that hold the bulbs are flimsy, because the original halogens weigh practically nothing. LEDs are fairly heavy, so the LEDs will probably be loose in the brackets. I secured them to the brackets with some high temperature RTV, just enough to keep them from wriggling around.
How do they work? Great. I didn't take any pictures, you can find those all over the net. I did measure the light output with a meter. The headlights are about twice that of the stock halogens, the fog lights three times the halogens, and the color is pure white. No yellow, no blue. The beam pattern is the same.