So after what seemed like an eternity, the retrofit cable I ordered(Part #61122154696) finally arrived on Friday, which meant I knew what I would be doing with my weekend! Unfortunately, this came with good and bad news.
The Bad News: That particular part # is apparently a retrofit cable set for a F10 5 series. I discovered this when I had my car apart and went to unwind the cable, and discovered that the camera cable was only about 4' long and the other cable harness was the longer one, which makes sense since the F10 camera control module is located in the trunk. However, all is not lost!!
The Good News: My retrofit is 100% complete and working, because the cable is still exactly what is needed to connect everything. The only change is that I had to figure out how to mount the control unit in the trunk, then run the remaining harness to the headunit in the front, which I will detail below.
All of the parts I used in the retrofit. The OEM wire taps were included with the retrofit cable, the fuse ended up not being needed since as described in the OP's writeup, the 5A fuse needed is already in place in the fusebox. Also, if you end up using the cable I listed, you will not need the OEM Screw for the camera mount, since it will not be in its original location.
In the picture of the passenger's side trunk area(with cover removed) below, I have outlined where I ended up mounting the control unit so that it was secure and fit comfortably. One thing to note is that if you put it in this area, you do have to make sure there is enough clearance for the trunk arms when they are closing. I have also highlighted the grounding point I used, as well as where I ran the wires towards the front of the car and the path I used to run the power wire down to the rear fuse box.
Green wire w/ Blue Stripe = Power(this had the connector for the fuse box already attached
Brown wire = Ground(this came with a ring connector which was perfect for the mounting point I used)
As mentioned above, the fuse connection is a simple "plug it in" thing. The fuse for the Rear Camera (from ISTA) is Socket 154, illustrated below. Just use a 10mm socket to remove the fuse box, locate the correct connector on the backside, and plug it in.
After this, you will be left with the wires that are run to the front of the car. You will need to separate about 2 feet of the CAN wires(Green and Orange/Green) from the 3 wires(red, white, and Shield) that run to the CIC, the rest you can leave them bundled together. The 3 CIC wires go to the back of the headunit to the large MOST connector. The Pin assignments from ISTA for cars with CIC are: Red - Pin #18, Shield - Pin #27, and White - Pin #28. I apologize for not getting pictures of this part, it was getting late and I forgot to snap a pic. The connector is labeled well though so you should have no problems identifying which slots to use.
As you work on the MOST connector, you will notice that there are 2 wires that are the same color as the CAN wires, HOWEVER, despite being the same color, at this location they serve a different function and cannot be tapped/used as the signal is not correct. But, since with this cable we are not going to the driver's side underdash, we need a new location to connect the two CAN wires. Thankfully, the wires we need are conveniently located nearby at the iDrive controller. You can remove the trim piece with the controller, and voila, there are your Green and Orange/Green wires. Run the 2 wires from the harness to this area, and then use the OEM wire taps(which are quite secure by the way) to connect them.
At this point, you are all done with the physical install. For the coding, the tutorial that comes with E-Sys is pretty helpful on how to change the VO code in your car. As I mentioned in an above post, you just need to add option code 3AG and finish the process.
If anyone is wanting to attempt this or has any questions, I am always willing to help out!
Final Result:
