Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewC1989
Quote:
Originally Posted by eugene89us
As far as I know, the recall only covers EGR cooler and any intake components that may have been damaged by faulty cooler. My EGR was replaced because I was under my original 4 year /50k mile warranty.
What I would suggest personally is to try to clean the EGR. I have never tried, but if you may end up forking money over for a new one, it won't hurt to try cleaning as the first thing to do. Most likely the thing got really sooted up that is affecting operation. The valve has 5 seconds to open or close on command, any delay will throw a code. ISTA would be good to have, there is a routine to check intake sooting that will also check EGR and swirl flap operation. There is a video on YouTube of a guy taking EGR off European F30 and doing a light cleaning. Not sure if any heavier cleaning is an option or not, but I would try that first. Mine requires removal of 2 security torx screws (dirt cheap on Amazon) and it will pull out a few inches. If you end up replacing EGR, you will need coolant also, since you will be disconnecting 2 coolant lines to remove it and you will need to top it off at the end.
I use this intake cleaner preventatively and it does a great job dissolving carbon deposits in intake.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/pro...i-moly-lm20208
You cannot expose MAF to it, but it does well with EGR soot and oil deposits. Maybe get a bottle for $10, remove the valve, put a small dish under it when you pull it to collect drippings and spray some over the mechanical valve side. Protect electronic side of course. May also be able to squirt some into the EGR opening with engine running to clean the EGR cooler a bit. But be careful with the latter part, as if you have too many deposits, you don't want to break them off in large chunks into intake. I usually avoid intake cleaning higher mileage cars unless you have been doing it from start and kept deposits low. But cleaning EGR valve alone would be reasonable thing to try. Worst case, if it helps none, you're out of $10 for cleaner and maybe another $10 for security torx set.
For future, consider getting a tune. My personal preference is Kerma tune as it will improve efficiency quite a bit and in my opinion will also reduce sooting of the intake without affecting any components (completely stock). The tune will reduce particulate formation, saving your DPF and hopefully also preserving cleanliness of EGR for a wee bit longer.
Cheers. |
Thanks for the advice but I think I will just go the OEM replacement route. Just wanted to double-check that this the correct replacement part:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ve-11717810871
also, would I need this gasket?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ve-11717794785
and is there anything else I might be overlooking part wise? |
Yes, the part numbers match. I verified with mine at
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_4582
Per BMW, you do need to replace the O ring when reinstalling the EGR. However, it almost seems on RealOEM that the EGR should come with one in the package, but don't quote me on that. Make sure you have hose clamps (also known as worm clamps). FCP has some cheap OE clamps, they have raised ridges unlike US clamps that just have cut outs. Supposedly German ones don't damage the rubber as much as US ones. I do kinda prefer the German ones. You will need them to reconnect the coolant lines, the old rings will be cut off and unusable. You will lose some coolant in process, make sure you have some coolant or at least distilled water if you live in warmer climate to refill what you lose.
You will need to remove the intake silencer and disconnect PCV valve, this will give you plenty of space. It is also suggested that you unscrew the two screws holding the power cable that runs over the valve and put it to the side to give you even more space. There are 2 security torx screws on EGR valve and 2 coolant lines that need to be disconnected. Disconnect electric plug to EGR. And you're ready to remove. Before you reinstall new EGR, replace O ring and connect rear coolant hose first, otherwise it will be pain to reach once EGR is set in place. Pretty easy job. Get ISTA software, because you need to purge air from coolant and reset EGR adaptation after installing one. At least that is recommended to do, but I am sure the car can re-adapt on its own. But also don't quote me on that, I personally like to do all of it, even if not necessary.