Quote:
Originally Posted by Stubok
Thanks for sharing! This is the same route I plan on taking, and have already had my custom turbo built.
I also went with the 9 blade TD04HLR turbine (52/45.6mm)and upgraded bearing kit.
For my compressor I selected the 6+6 blade with extended tip: 49.1/65-69mm. Machinist said there was plenty of meat in there, but the biggest possible match for the turbine.
Also have the CP Pistons, rods, Carr bolts.
Very interested in the Head studs? Do you have part numbers you can share? Did you have to open up the head bolt holes?
Did you do any work to the head? Porting or valve job?
I defiantly like the idea of having the stabilizing rods added to reduce the cylinders from moving. It will probably increase the life of the head gasket.
Do you have any more picture of the cylinder and crank case relief areas for the new rods?
Also do you know which cylinder liners your machine shop used?
How long did the build take you? Did you have to get any new tools for the disassembly and reassembly? I hear the injectors and rod bolts require some unique tools.
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Hey Stubok, Apologies for the late reply;
Head Bolt holes for the 4 Corner factory 10mm holes will need to be drilled out for the larger 11mm studs, a 12mm drill bit will do the job, for memory this was actually still smaller than the CounterBored hole for the alignment dowels in the head, although the alignment dowel holes in the block will be abit larger so i suggest installing larger alignment dowels, however i did not and my head has still aligned perfectly.
The link for the Head Bolts is here; Just select N55 from the drop down, from factory the N20 and N55 share the same headbolts for the 11mm studs, and the fact the N55 comes with more 11mm studs makes it great if you plan to go 10x 11mm Studs, as for Timeserts i don't have a link as i sourced them locally, but the specs you need is M11x1.5 x30mm Length (you should only require 4 inserts, My case was unique as i ended up using the incorrectly shipped N54 Studs so i had to install the threads at a higher depth than the factory thread)
https://store.vacmotorsports.com/arp...-bmw-p114.aspx (Part No. ARP-HSK-N55)
As for the notching the cylinders, its abit hard to see but here is the link to the photo
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mCa...ew?usp=sharing
No head work has been done, Honestly not required since i am not aiming for very high power figures, also you'd need a spare head to work out just how much material you could remove.
For specialised tools, you will need the Cam locking and alignment tool, Guys who have done a timing chain replacement will know what this is, it can be found on ebay, you can also obtain a oil pump chain locking tool to help do the bolt on the oil chain gear up, its on ebay, don't have a link sorry just remember seeing it on there, Although i never used one and the torque spec isn't very high so using the oil chain to do the bolt up is fine. (I'm sure someone will say this is a big no - no)
Specialised Tools also include, Torque wrenches (really good ones, especially for head bolts etc) but you'll need wrenches than can do 5nm - 200nm, to remove the factory headbolts you will need T55 and T60 180mm long Sockets (the Torx Allens that are on a socket) i sourced these from my local supplier, although you can get away with a standard sized T55 and T60 torx socket on a 3/8 Driver and extension bar. Sockets you will commonly use is E8,E7,E10,E11,E12 (Gearbox Bolts) E14(Fly wheel and AC and alternator Bolts) E18/E20 (can't Quite remember the size) for the factory Strut Brace
You'll want Torx Sockets for T27, T30, T40, T45, T50, T55 and T60 you'll also need a 12 sided 1/2inch Socket on a 1/2 Drive for the Rod Bolts
I Suggest you have a stretch Gauge and stretch the bolts to the CP Spec, Alternatively you can Torque to 79NM (i know you US guys use LB-FT but 99% of the engine will be in NM so you may need to convert, conviently my torque wrenches had both LB-Ft and NM readings as the head bolts had LB-FT torque spec, whilst the rod bolts had both NM and LB-FT)
I am not sure the Brand of my Sleeves, I'm pretty confident they're a Dry Sleeve.
Total time: really depends, on what a variety of factors, my engine builder did his work in a week, the same week i had the turbo sorted, it then took me a few months to reassemble as i had to work and didn't have much time to work on the car, but realistically i would say 3 days for reassembly + 1 Day to put back in the car + 1 more day to connect the fiddly bits like the loom and charge pipes etc.
