UPDATE:
Last month i had oil pump failure and threw my rod bearings, main bearings, and ruined the Journal on cylinder one of the crankshaft. Engine was pulled again...
Replaced Oil pump! Something i should have done the first time as it had sustained fair amount of damage from the very first time i blew the engine... It was a ticking time bomb....
Now whilst the engine was out, i installed a baffle to the factory sump and glued it into place using 250°C oil resistant RTV, grabbed a used crankshaft off ebay that had 32000kms.
had the crankshaft crack tested, had the rods, pistons, block & head cleaned and tested, the crankshaft tunnel had to be line bored as it was out of round by 20 thou.
Installed ACL TRI-Metal Rod bearings, as the VAC rod bearings are just OEM and coated in a low friction coating.
Installed factory Blue main bearings (all blue due to changes in crankshaft tunnel after line boring)
Installed ARP2000 mainstuds 10mm the block had to be time-serted due to the shorter length of the studs. (60 LBFT torque in 3 equal steps) Due to the clearance issues with the counterbalance shaft/oil pump module these main studs MUST! Be installed without a washer and the top of the stud cut off so that the top of the stud lines up with the top of the nut which inturn lines up with the base of the bedplate.
Changed out the 18T Compressor Wheel on the turbo to a custom 49.10 inducer 65mm exducer 6+6 design just for more flow, as the 18T is abit underrated for the power I'm after. Turbo was rebuilt again since bearing material from the spun rod bearings made it into the turbo housing, rest of the engine remained clean... Not sure how this happened. Turbo was also rebalanced and housing machined to suit the new compressor wheel.
N55 PSP oil heat exchanger to oil cooler adaptor plate, Aeroflow 25 row oil cooler with 10AN Aeroflow fittings with stainless braided hoses the pipe from the coolant pump to the factory oil heat exchanger is blocked off with a plug. Insane how much of a temp difference this makes!! Worth it! Dropped both oil and coolant temps by 20/10 respectively.
Engine is now back together cost another $6500 to fix this issue. Will post photos of the oil sump baffle. Engine is running Halim from HC performance is working on my tune after continuous troubles finding a tuner, Xhp flash tool will release a 8 spd auto tranny flash in the next 3 months as anything over 382 hp atw will start seeing software torque limiting.
Factory limiting is 550nm at the crank for all gears except 3&6 which is 450nm limit at the crank
Timing chains and oil pump chain seems to be completely fine, as are the guides and tensioner. The crankshaft torsion bolt is torque to yield and the torque specs are 100nm + 270° of rotation.... Its absolutely insane amount of torque and the locking pin from the camshaft timing tool will bend and snap with this torque, using a flywheel locking gear is recommended its a F****load of torque!
Currently have stage 2 BM3 BEF with the JB4 running for 26psi on e85, and 24psi for 98 RON (93 for you US folks) Logs looking fine, good afrs no knock and great ignition, not dynoing until my BM3 tune for the car is complete so i can do away with the JB4, also with the tranny torque limiting, i will get some very disappointing results
Photo test mounting, intercooler, oil cooler and intake
Photo installing the Tomei Universal oil pan baffle, please note! Only one baffle is needed since the way the pump and pickup sit in the sump, and given its location a baffle is actually only needed in the spot shown in the photo, the baffle will need to have its height reduced by half as it will contact the oil pump and you'll have issues putting everything together, also glued a magnet to the oil drain plug! Hate working with plastics... But challenge accepted!
