03-05-2022, 02:32 PM | #1 |
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Solved - drivetrain malfunction after oil change
Any help or suggestions will be much appreciated.
I've just done a few maintenance jobs on the wifes 328i N20. Oil and filter change Air filter replaced Replaced timing chain tensioner with newer version (purely preventative, no noises or anything) Replaced drive belt and tensioner (also preventative) All parts OE or genuine. Used Castrol Edge 5w30M (second time using it), Mann oil filter. After refilling with 5 litres of oil and starting the car, the idle was fine for about 2-3 mins, then suddenly went lumpy and a drivetrain error appeared in iDrive. The error codes were 130304 - VANOS, exhaust: control error, camshaft is stuck 120408 - Boost pressure control: shutdown as a follow up reaction I've checked the oil filter and I definitely have the cage and all o-rings properly installed. Any ideas what I might have done wrong? Edit: I also replaced the spark plugs. Last edited by wrongmark; 03-15-2022 at 12:56 AM.. Reason: added detail |
03-05-2022, 03:48 PM | #2 |
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Update - I swapped the VANOS actuators around and cleared the errors. The problem is still showing on the exhaust side. I also poked around at the valves while I had the actuators off and they look ok to me, not stuck at all.
I'm now also getting error 130E20 - Inlet camshaft: angular offset to crankshaft outside tolerance. So I've either messed the timing up when changing the timing chain tensioner (I was very careful and nothing sprung out or seemed to move) or I'm suspecting a dirty VANOS valve, which involves taking off the valve cover and fixing the timing in place as I understand it. Not something I fancy tackling on the driveway at the moment. I'm thinking of changing the oil and filter again tomorrow on the off chance that resolves it. Or I may have just finished off the timing chain.... Last edited by wrongmark; 03-05-2022 at 03:54 PM.. |
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03-05-2022, 03:55 PM | #3 |
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You might have disturbed the vanos soleniod position when replacing the timing chain tensioner when you moved the wastegate to get at it. That's what I'd check out first.
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03-05-2022, 04:17 PM | #4 |
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Do you mean the wastegate solenoid/actuator? The nuts that adjust the linkage? I'm just looking at a Youtube video on that now.
Last edited by wrongmark; 03-05-2022 at 05:10 PM.. |
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03-06-2022, 03:55 AM | #7 |
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I've now adjusted the wastegate actuator (by one turn to the original mark I made with a sharpie). I tried to run the test but I can't get my ISTA to work (keeps hanging on "Vehicle Identification). I'm no longer getting the exhaust error 130304. But I am now getting 130E20 - Inlet camshaft: angular offset to crankshaft outside tolerance.
I swapped the VANOS actuators back to their original sides and cleared faults, but no change. The car now goes into limp mode immediately on starting, even after clearing the faults. Whereas it took a good few minutes each time before. I'm worried that the timing chain guides might have been on their way out and I've finished them off with the new tensioner, causing it to skip timing. Still open to any advice, but I think I might have to give in and take to my local BMW specialist. I just worry that they'll jump straight to throwing a timing chain in there at considerable expense and that it might not solve the underlying issue (that I've probably caused). Last edited by wrongmark; 03-06-2022 at 12:00 PM.. Reason: I meant ISTA (not INPA) |
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03-06-2022, 04:48 AM | #8 |
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Can you be sure that the timing chain is installed correctly?
It may be that more than 3 timing teeth have been skipped, generally no fault warning within 2 timing teeth skipped |
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03-06-2022, 05:57 AM | #9 |
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I was contemplating getting the timing tools for this engine and trying to check it. AFAIK it’s still on the original chain. I suspect that when I started the engine after replacing the timing chain tensioner only, it might have skipped a few teeth. I don’t really want to start taking the valve cover and sump off on the drive because it’ll take me days to do it myself and the wife’s already gone mad that I’ve spent most of the weekend messing with it. I just don’t understand how it ran fine for first couple of mins.
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03-06-2022, 06:26 AM | #10 | |
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easy fix
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easy fix. |
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03-06-2022, 07:05 AM | #11 | ||
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03-06-2022, 08:34 AM | #12 | ||
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Quote:
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03-10-2022, 06:12 AM | #13 |
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So where I've got to is, I'm 99% sure I've messed the timing up a bit with my timing chain tensioner replacement. I'm hoping that I've not done any damage to the engine. Although I am not starting the engine, it is able to start and run, but with the drivetrain error on iDrive (so hopefully no damaged valves).
I think what I should have done was turn over the engine by hand a few times after installing the new tensioner and then potentially turning the engine over without any spark plugs and with the fuel relay removed to build some oil pressure to the new tensioner. I think failing to do this has caused the chain to skip a tooth or so. I have it booked in with my local BMW independent who I have used before and do trust. They are going to have it towed to their garage. The problem is, they can't look at it for another two weeks. Alternatively, I fancy buying the timing tools off ebay (for approx £50) and initially just correcting the timing myself after watching at least half a dozen Youtube vids multiple times. I'm confident I can do it. It's whether I want to with the inevitable grey rainy UK weather and the time it will take. Also, if after that I find out that the engine is damaged, I've not spent any cash on labour and I can try and solve the problem from there. The other consideration is, do I just replace the timing chain and all the associated bits while I'm at it, or do I get it going and then plan to tackle the timing chain replacement job in a couple of months when I have a bit more time and the weather is a bit more favourable? I have a list of new parts needed and am in the process of pricing it up with a combination of aftermarket/OEM and genuine BMW for the important bits. Any opinions welcomed at this point. |
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03-10-2022, 08:38 AM | #14 |
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The parts expense of replacing the timing chain and guides isn't all that dear, it's the time involved that makes it cost so much to have it done. Might as well replace the valve cover gasket while you're at it, if it hasn't started leaking yet it will.
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03-10-2022, 09:42 AM | #15 | |
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I've ordered the timing tool from Amazon for £70 (coming tomorrow hopefully). The current plan is to put the engine back in time first, check all is running ok. Then do the timing chain in a few months when I have a bit more time to spare. Obviously I'll take a good look at the timing chain guides while I have the valve cover off and if I spot anything untoward, I'll just have to bite the bullet, get everything ordered and do the full job. Got my old man coming round with his popup gazebo (rain forecast for Sat ) for an extra pair of hands and mainly moral support. |
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03-15-2022, 12:04 AM | #16 |
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Solved. I took the valve cover off and corrected the timing. On my first attempt, I timed the camshafts and then as I removed the manual chain tensioner to install the sprung one, the exhaust camshaft skipped a tooth right in front of my eyes. I suspect this is what happened when I replaced the tensioner the first time with the valve cover on.
I also realised that I didn’t have the locking pin properly installed at the flywheel. I then had to adjust the timing again as I didn’t have it properly locked at TDC. I removed the two rubber dust caps and shone a light in one while I looked through the other to help guide it in. The tension on the chain looked fine and I had a look as best I could at the plastic chain guides a which also looked fine at 78k miles. I’m going to leave the timing chain replacement for now. So a warning for anyone thinking of replacing the tensioner on its own, I wouldn’t bother. Last edited by wrongmark; 03-15-2022 at 12:51 AM.. |
03-15-2022, 07:22 AM | #17 |
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I wouldn't say don't change the tensioner, there's a lot of evidence that it's at least in part responsible for timing chain/guide failure. However, based on your experience I'd do so with the valve cover off to be sure that the chain doesn't skip. That also gives one the opportunity to change the VC gasket, which is likely to be called for anyway.
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03-15-2022, 11:53 AM | #18 |
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Billfitz - I do agree. Hopefully the new tensioner will prevent future issues.
I also have an E90 with the N43 engine (I don't think it was an engine available in the US) which also has a tendency to have timing chain guide issues. I replaced the tensioner on that car a few years ago (just swapped it over) and I've had no timing chain issues to date, now at 102k miles. I hoped the N20 would be the same simple tensioner swap. I was really aiming the advice at DIYers with limited knowledge or experience thinking it was an easy job with no risk. I followed a DIY that someone had posted here somewhere (a PDF), but obviously it turned into a bigger job as a result. |
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03-15-2022, 03:29 PM | #19 |
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I probably have the same PDF. However, the tensioner replacement TIS doesn't mention needing to take any steps to prevent the chain from jumping either. I'm only at 22k miles, so replacing the tensioner is a ways off for me, but when I do I'll pull the cover off and change the gasket while I'm at it. I might even do the oil filter housing gasket while my hands are dirty.
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03-16-2022, 09:24 AM | #21 |
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Oh and I wouldn’t remove the Philips screws on the wastegate actuator (as per the PDF). Just undo the T45 bolts underneath it with a socket extension instead and slide it out of the way less chance of messing up the adjustment like I did.
Last edited by wrongmark; 03-17-2022 at 10:18 PM.. |
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