| 04-16-2026, 05:46 PM | #1 |
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Cheap power supply for coding
I’m getting my I drive updated for car play and need a charging solution.
Takes about 1.5 hours apparently and I need a cheap solution to keep it charged. I remember reading a post on here, about making a power supply but can’t seem to find its Any suggestions? The coding only costs 150 and I don’t wanna spend another 150 on a charger if I can help it |
| 04-16-2026, 08:47 PM | #2 |
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Absolute cheapest with a bit of risk- use a running car and jumper cables- I did a full istep update and had no issues but YMMV. I use a $120 RV power supply for all my coding and ISTA things now. There was some guy that used old server power supplies wired together but thay wouldn’t have been that much cheaper than the power supply I got and a heck of a lot more work.
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| 04-17-2026, 03:35 AM | #3 | |
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Which one do you use? |
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| 04-17-2026, 04:44 AM | #4 | |
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if I've helped - an Appreciate would be, er, very appreciated!
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| 04-17-2026, 05:45 AM | #5 | |
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Might just have to connect another running car with jump leads, but I don’t think my gf will want her 26 plate idling for 2 hours 😆 |
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| 04-17-2026, 08:24 AM | #6 |
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This is the kind of thing I use, I have a slightly up-rated model since I was working on the valvetronic system, but this would probably be fine for coding.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Maureen-Pow.../dp/B0DXTTLP6C If you’re handy the DIY above will work just as fine too, just depends how cheap you can get rh components |
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| 04-17-2026, 09:32 AM | #7 |
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I've seen folk use their CTEK trickle charger and also the likes of Noco boost packs etc
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| 04-17-2026, 05:39 PM | #8 |
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I had a crazy flash problem a few years ago. I bought several chargers, even a very expensive heavy duty shop model. All of them should have worked but only one model from Stanley had very steady current to complete a long flash. Returned the others.
I’ve been using this Stanley (below) for years now. Great for flashing and battery charging. Kies Motorsports also did a video on this model a few years ago. https://a.co/d/01bNLFdz |
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| 04-18-2026, 03:36 AM | #9 |
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If you are only flashing the HU and have climate control and headlights switched off you would be ok with this 20A 13.6v power supply.
Not sure how reliable it is though. https://towntools.co.uk/products/rin...CABEgJpOPD_BwE
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Last edited by Mick.86uk; 04-18-2026 at 03:38 AM.. |
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| 04-18-2026, 05:48 AM | #10 |
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I had a really nice Schumacher unit and it fell off the table and broke. So I had to buy another one and didn't want to spend another bunch of money this time. After a ton of research I ended up on this thing:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F8MC43Q...ding=UTF8&th=1 It's worked really well. For trickle charging and maintaining during flashing I'm pretty sure that is the best bang for the buck out there. I've already spent the time looking. Factory manual says you need 70 amps, not 20. I don't know about 70 but I've definitely seen it pull 35 during flashing. |
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| 04-18-2026, 08:43 AM | #11 | |
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For the istep full software update where the climate control turns on automatically and other equipment is active then you would need 70A power supply. For a HU only flash with everything else off 20A would be ok.
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| 04-19-2026, 03:46 AM | #12 |
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i did the server psu mod years ago and still have it somewhere. I think it gives out a steady 60ish amps at 13.4 or thereabouts. In any case it's tuneable for less voltage/more amps (or vice versa). If I can find it, you're welcome to borrow it for the return postage - but I've a horrible feeling I "leant" it to someone and it hasn't come back. Let me know if you want me to look
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| 04-20-2026, 10:14 AM | #13 |
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