12-28-2018, 02:35 PM | #1 |
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Park Brake Cable Clip - BMW (34-40-6-854-898)
Hello,
I 435 is making a notice in the center console. Dealer wants to charge me over $400 for labor to replace this part. I was wondering if anyone has done this or where I could find the exploded view on how to change it myself. I already bought the part, its only like $14 Part Number (34-40-6-854-898) Thanks |
12-30-2018, 08:37 PM | #3 |
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That part number is for the clip retainer for the handbrake cable guide tubes.
06 Clip retainer 1 34406854898 From the newTIS.info guide, it's located underneath the car above the driveshaft. Doesn't look like an easy job and looks like you may have to drop the driveshaft unless there is enough clearance to get a ratchet or spanner in. |
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06-02-2019, 10:23 AM | #4 | |
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08-08-2019, 05:37 PM | #5 |
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Crev**r BMW just quoted me $1100 to change this clip. Then they dropped it to $700. I'd have someone else do it for $400 but if it's simple enough, I'll do it myself and buy extra beer for the weekend. The part was quoted at $20.35
I'll take pictures and post... Anyone who has pointers besides what Crjetlife has to offer, I'm open to hear experiences. |
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08-26-2019, 03:15 PM | #6 | |
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It's very tight spot, the retainer clip actually fit's in a notch in the fuel tank, and is fastened with a fixed under body screw. So the process of getting the clip in the notch of the fuel tank and over the fixed screw is a bit tricky! I ended up loosening the right side fuel tank supports to get the new one in (two people will make this easier) Also make sure you have 1/4 to 1/8 tank of fuel (mine was full!!) which I'm sure made it a bit more difficult. Grease up rubber portion of new clip to help with install. Drive/Propeller shaft doesn't need to be removed, but you will question that with how tight the space is to work with. |
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08-26-2019, 06:52 PM | #8 |
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I think it might depend on how hard the car has been accelerated during it's life. Mine initially was only making the noise in Sport mode during moderate to hard acceleration, then the noise made it's way to comfort mode during moderate acceleration.. (annoying as heck!)
Called a local shop, to inquire as I read the M3 having similar sounds, and their fix was a "cold bend" of the brake tube (I thought my fix was going to be the same). That's when the tech said "the common reason" is the retaining clip breaking. Dealer knew what I was talking about right away as well, and affirmed it was 99% most likely the retaining clip. It may be a common issue? |
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08-30-2019, 09:29 AM | #9 | |
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I have this noise since replacing my exhaust (I'm thinking working under the car must've caused the part being broke and the final nail in the coffin). I haven't been able to find any pictures of where this is, I'm going to try to replace myself next weekend. $700 is a hard pass to replace a clip For anyone else experiencing it, looks like the part is available from ECS for $9 : https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/34406854898/
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09-08-2019, 05:37 AM | #10 |
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01-03-2020, 09:42 AM | #12 |
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Doubling Down to for Install Guide
Wondering if someone has a link to the replacement guide for the e-Brake bracket. Mostly curious what tools are needed, and an approximate amount of time.
Last edited by nethers; 01-03-2020 at 09:49 AM.. |
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01-20-2020, 02:21 PM | #13 | |
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Can you repost or share these pictures again. Looks like a few of us are about to Do this. What was the need you had for loosening the fuel tank mounts? I didn’t get that part. |
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01-20-2020, 02:26 PM | #14 |
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I can see the pictures if I right click on the icon and then left click View Image on the menu that comes up. There's not much there to see anyway.
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02-03-2020, 05:55 PM | #15 |
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I just changed the bracket this weekend, you have to lower the fuel tank and remove the heat shield to access the bracket. It sits right above the drive shaft on the rear tires.
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02-28-2020, 05:13 PM | #17 | |
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Did you have to drop the gas tank and the driveshaft? |
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02-29-2020, 05:14 PM | #18 |
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Easy Peezy
So after removing the 5000 8mm screws holding all the underskirting up, the job's pretty easy. (8mm & 10mm deep sockets with 18V impact driver)
Remove under skirts, the L shaped one twists once all the screws are removed and then can be removed--you'll see what I mean... Remove the V shaped metal bracket with T-50 & T-60 Torx bits. Remove the exhaust--first the clamp bracket near the engine (16mm wrench), then two torx bolts at the center of the exhaust (E10 Torx Socket) and two at the muffler (13mm socket). Taking the exhaust out is a one person job--putting it back, well you are probably better than me, but I asked for assistance getting the muffler back on it's bolt mounts. Remove the metal heat shielding (10mm socket) Use a 13mm wrench to take off the fender washer/nut holding the parking brake retainer to the body. Then remove the 13mm bolts to the gas tank straps. if they haven't broken off already, remove the parking brake cables out of the way to get to the fender washer/nut holding the retainer to the body bolt. Now pull the gas tank down so you can get the retainer off of the bolt and slide the retainer off of the tank with a screwdriver. The retainer slides into a notch in the gas tank and acts as an additional secure point for the tank to the body. I did not lube the new one up to get it back on. It went on easily once I pulled the gas tank down enough to push it past the mounting bolt. That part's a little tough but not too bad. It's best to get the parking brake cables out of the way. the one wedged b/t the gas tank and the drive shaft is the worst.. Did not remove the drive shaft but did notice it was leaking fluid from the center bearing so I've called my dealer about fixing that under warranty. I have a third party warranty that I was hoping would do THIS job; however, in their fine print, they don't cover fasteners, bolts, nuts, screws. Once your parking brake cables are secured back in the retainer, you can reverse order and reassemble everything. Took about three hours including getting the car in the air with jackstands and tire ramps. When it breaks again in 45,000 miles, I expect to be able to get it done in under two hours. Cheers and let me know if you have any questions. If you got skillz, this is an easy job. Very few tools needed--just huevos. Last edited by Broker2009; 02-29-2020 at 05:36 PM.. Reason: clarity |
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03-01-2020, 10:03 AM | #19 |
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Appears to be a common enough problem that my friend who is a tech at my BMW dealership said to have it replaced when I brought in the car for its last warranty service. Took him about 2+ hours which also included replacing the black trim in the front fascia which was changing color to purple.
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03-15-2020, 12:52 AM | #20 | ||
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04-14-2020, 04:50 PM | #21 |
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Emergency break clip/bracket
Hello all,
So I just got quote for $1160+ for this exact issue you guys have been talking about (replace Emergency break cable bracket/clip) on my 4 series and the dealer is saying CPO does not cover this. How is this not a warranty issue?? SMH, any feedback in regards to coverage under CPO would be appreciated. |
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