[khj24]

Originally Posted by Eschmacher

You got the part number for that oring by any chance? might swap mine out for the peace of mind.

Edit: 13718596850, found on realoem.

That's the one I used, it actually had a different one listed that was discontinued and that one should be the replacement. When I had both in my hands at once it was pretty obvious the difference, probably due to age. My old o ring was so limp lol

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by khj24

This is my logic, also shows off my immense artistic "capabilities"

Sorry to bump and older thread but i just read about the orientation of the IC-CP O-ring for about an hour and it still isnt clear. I suspect i have a boost leak and this is the only part of my IC+CP install i am not 100% certain about.

Can anyone confirm that the above sketch someone made is incorrect? I believe thats what the posts after this picture stated, but i saw different information in other threads. I think i installed it as in the picture above, where the taper was going in the direction i was sliding the pipe on.

[alohasurftoad]

AFAIK, The sketch is correct

[johnung]

Originally Posted by alohasurftoad

AFAIK, The sketch is correct

Here's a sketch that I found last year.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by johnung

Here's a sketch that I found last year.

That sketch agrees with the sketch i posted from earlier in this thread, but then it seemed like people were giving the opposite info.

In any case, thanks for the replies. I am going to try to make a basic boost leak tester this weekend to identify and fix any leaks. If it turns out I have a leak at IC-CP connection, I may just order a new O-ring before taking anything apart to replace it. Hopefully you can get that at BMW? I will follow the above two sketches, which is how i installed it originally i believe.

[khj24]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

That sketch agrees with the sketch i posted from earlier in this thread, but then it seemed like people were giving the opposite info.

In any case, thanks for the replies. I am going to try to make a basic boost leak tester this weekend to identify and fix any leaks. If it turns out I have a leak at IC-CP connection, I may just order a new O-ring before taking anything apart to replace it. Hopefully you can get that at BMW? I will follow the above two sketches, which is how i installed it originally i believe.

I actually flipped mine to the "incorrect" part of the drawing and I think the direction of the air matters, with it flowing up into the TB it probably creates a suction effect which would pull the lipped part of the gasket into the charge pipe. If you had it the "correct" way I think it would behave the same way, but there's nothing for the lip to press against so it just allows air in and out. I honestly think I still have a leak and maybe the charge pipe might be just out of spec somehow. I think the only way for us to be sure of the direction would unfortunately be to see a stock CP taken off and note the orientation, I just wish the guides made a bigger deal about the direction of this gasket, I treated it like TB one.

FWIW the hot side(Turbo to IC) mirrors the drawing I made, but the air flow is the opposite direction.

[hardparker]

I use 4.0mm x 59mm o-rings for my FMIC connections. They make it slightly more difficult to install the FMIC, but they're non-directional and seal better.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by khj24

I actually flipped mine to the "incorrect" part of the drawing and I think the direction of the air matters, with it flowing up into the TB it probably creates a suction effect which would pull the lipped part of the gasket into the charge pipe. If you had it the "correct" way I think it would behave the same way, but there's nothing for the lip to press against so it just allows air in and out. I honestly think I still have a leak and maybe the charge pipe might be just out of spec somehow. I think the only way for us to be sure of the direction would unfortunately be to see a stock CP taken off and note the orientation, I just wish the guides made a bigger deal about the direction of this gasket, I treated it like TB one.

FWIW the hot side(Turbo to IC) mirrors the drawing I made, but the air flow is the opposite direction.

I read this "suction" argument, and i could understand that if this was a low pressure zone created by air velocity going past it, but the entire CP is under boost (at least when we are in boost and care about a boost leak). So, i don't think there is ever a low pressure zone in that area around the gasket. I plan to do some boost leak testing this weekend if my idea for a tester works, and i will definitely report back.

I also read that the O-ring should be pretty firm, but mine was definitely soft. I kindof thought that soft was normal for the O-ring, with more firm indicating signs of age...

Originally Posted by hardparker

I use 4.0mm x 59mm o-rings for my FMIC connections. They make it slightly more difficult to install the FMIC, but they're non-directional and seal better.

Thank you for posting this. I might just order some of these right now to have on hand. I saw in a different thread someone posted a specific size O-ring they used for the CP-TB connection as well, but could not find one for the CP-IC.

FWIW my IC-CP connection was SUPER easy to install, almost too easy. I lightly oiled the O-ring and IC connection point before sliding it on, but it took almost no effort for them to mate. I should have checked how loose they felt but by that point i just wanted everything back together.

[khj24]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

I read this "suction" argument, and i could understand that if this was a low pressure zone created by air velocity going past it, but the entire CP is under boost (at least when we are in boost and care about a boost leak). So, i don't think there is ever a low pressure zone in that area around the gasket. I plan to do some boost leak testing this weekend if my idea for a tester works, and i will definitely report back.

I also read that the O-ring should be pretty firm, but mine was definitely soft. I kindof thought that soft was normal for the O-ring, with more firm indicating signs of age...



Thank you for posting this. I might just order some of these right now to have on hand. I saw in a different thread someone posted a specific size O-ring they used for the CP-TB connection as well, but could not find one for the CP-IC.

FWIW my IC-CP connection was SUPER easy to install, almost too easy. I lightly oiled the O-ring and IC connection point before sliding it on, but it took almost no effort for them to mate. I should have checked how loose they felt but by that point i just wanted everything back together.

Mine was barely hanging on with that orientation, took no effort to mate them over the o ring, basically just dropped in on and gravity let it slip over it. With a new o ring flipped around to contradict the diagram it was much more difficult to slide it on, which was reassuring. I also made sure the tapered part did not twist like it wanted to do originally.

Let me know how all of this goes for you, with the weather cooling down I am more inclined to mess with it. What CP do you have?

[pw0n]

Following - going to upgrade my FMIC soon, so definitely curious about this as well.

Also, how do you test for boost leak? From my search, most articles discuss loss of power, but I don't think I'm experiencing any of that (upgraded my CP & DP).

As a matter of fact, even when my charge OEM CP blew off, I was able to hit redline and WOT on the freeway - honestly couldn't tell a difference that my CP was off.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

That sketch agrees with the sketch i posted from earlier in this thread, but then it seemed like people were giving the opposite info.

In any case, thanks for the replies. I am going to try to make a basic boost leak tester this weekend to identify and fix any leaks. If it turns out I have a leak at IC-CP connection, I may just order a new O-ring before taking anything apart to replace it. Hopefully you can get that at BMW? I will follow the above two sketches, which is how i installed it originally i believe.

I always recommend changing the o-rings at both ends of the charge pipe and both connections to the intercooler, so three o-rings total. (The two at the FMIC are identical.)

My original factory o-ring at the intercooler end came out crimped in the groove so I was lucky that I didn't have leak symptoms. Those o-rings will be there for years. No use taking a chance re-using the original o-rings. Look at the troubleshooting time and $ to track down something that turns out to be a cheap part.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by khj24

Mine was barely hanging on with that orientation, took no effort to mate them over the o ring, basically just dropped in on and gravity let it slip over it. With a new o ring flipped around to contradict the diagram it was much more difficult to slide it on, which was reassuring. I also made sure the tapered part did not twist like it wanted to do originally.

Let me know how all of this goes for you, with the weather cooling down I am more inclined to mess with it. What CP do you have?

I have VRSF CP and 5'' IC. Installed both at the same time.

Originally Posted by pw0n

Following - going to upgrade my FMIC soon, so definitely curious about this as well.

Also, how do you test for boost leak? From my search, most articles discuss loss of power, but I don't think I'm experiencing any of that (upgraded my CP & DP).

As a matter of fact, even when my charge OEM CP blew off, I was able to hit redline and WOT on the freeway - honestly couldn't tell a difference that my CP was off.

I searched for over an hour for N55-specific boost leak check methods, didnt find any detailed DIY or guide. I am familiar with a pressure test from my 3000gt, so i will probably just build a similar device to pressurize the system and check for leaks. I don't have the expensive smoke machine to visually check for leaks. I will post here and on the other thread specifically about boost leak checks after i try and build that adapter this weekend.

In terms of identifying if you have a boost leak, you basically need to log. Typically you will see boost and load below target, WGDC higher than it should be (trying to compensate for boost leak), among other potential issues. I did logs when completely stock, then logs after IC+CP install, then logs after IC+CP+stage 1 tune, so i have all of them to compare. After the install but no tune, i was already a bit below target, whereas i was basically right on target before install. After the tune and higher boost target, i was way more below target, suggesting a leak (along with higher WGDC). You may not tell a difference if its s small leak and WGDC can compensate to reach target boost.

Originally Posted by johnung

I always recommend changing the o-rings at both ends of the charge pipe and both connections to the intercooler, so three o-rings total. (The two at the FMIC are identical.)

My original factory o-ring at the intercooler end came out crimped in the groove so I was lucky that I didn't have leak symptoms. Those o-rings will be there for years. No use taking a chance re-using the original o-rings. Look at the troubleshooting time and $ to track down something that turns out to be a cheap part.

I should have done this, but i did not see the option to order the IC-CP o-ring when i got my IC and CP. Mine looked fine, felt fine, and i didnt have any choice at time of install so i reused.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by hardparker

I use 4.0mm x 59mm o-rings for my FMIC connections. They make it slightly more difficult to install the FMIC, but they're non-directional and seal better.

Quick question - is this a 59mm OD or ID? Inner diameter or outer diameter?

[hardparker]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Quick question - is this a 59mm OD or ID? Inner diameter or outer diameter?

Inside diameter. O-rings are spec'd by cross section thickness and inside diameter.

[hardparker]

Here you go: O-ring seals for charge pipes

[XxThe_RemedyXx]

Just got doing this myself and I can say with confidence that the O-Ring flare has to be facing towards the rear of the vehicle. The other way doesn't make any sense. When I take my old CP off I will take a picture of that one as well but I'm currently targeting 18 pounds of boost with zero leak issues.

I picked up the OEM gaskets to replace my old ones with...

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by XxThe_RemedyXx

Just got doing this myself and I can say with confidence that the O-Ring flare has to be facing towards the rear of the vehicle. The other way doesn't make any sense. When I take my old CP off I will take a picture of that one as well but I'm currently targeting 18 pounds of boost with zero leak issues.

I picked up the OEM gaskets to replace my old ones with...

This is how i installed mine. I can only assume that it just needed to be replaced. It "felt" and looked fine, and my car is a 2015. I ordered a bunch of different Orings and am going to try and pressure test then install those as needed this weekend.

Hindsight 20/20, i should have just ordered new OEM ones before the install, oh well.

[thejeremyman9]

Following up and confirming that the posts and sketches above are correct. The Oring flare/taper goes into the charge pipe, away from the IC. I confirmed on the OEM TIC pipe.

See additional discussion about using larger Orings here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...43&postcount=4

[khj24]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Following up and confirming that the posts and sketches above are correct. The Oring flare/taper goes into the charge pipe, away from the IC. I confirmed on the OEM TIC pipe.

See additional discussion about using larger Orings here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...43&postcount=4

I looked at the OEM TIC pipe as well, and yes that is true, but the air does flow in a different direction for the CP side, which will mean it needs to be flipped IF you believe that a low pressure area exists within.

[khj24]

We really need someone to take off their stock one and note the direction to put this to bed lol

[XxThe_RemedyXx]

Originally Posted by khj24

We really need someone to take off their stock one and note the direction to put this to bed lol

I replaced my CP yesterday and the direction of the o-ring is correct as I stated in my previous post. I did some logs after installation and I am hitting targeted boost.

[Eddamoo]

I've just stumbled across this excellent thread after noticing my post-intercooler upper boost hose connector was leaking on my N57 430d. The hoses look exactly the same as pictured in this thread.

Does anyone have any advice on how to get the damn o-ring seated into the inner ridge of the pipe collar? Try as i might, i could not get the damn thing seated all the way around. The bump before the recess causes excessive slack on the O-ring and access is very fiddly.

After spending 20 minutes failing, i ended up putting the o-ring at the very end of the pipe collar instead. I've driven the car 50 miles since and it hasn't leaked at all. Once my new part arrives (and i manage to fit it) i think ill use both!